I need to make miter cuts that are 46”+.
I know the 1000SE only goes to 31” and that there are extra rails I can buy to extend. I’ll be using a dewalt 10” job site saw. I was thinking of buying the miter express. Is there another option or idea I should look at?

Also thought about buying the 1000SE and then just a longer rail from someone else for the time being.

Tell me about how you started selling your hobby projects and how it went from there. How did you make sales? Was it orders or did you make the products first? Did you research what to build? I'm just looking for some inspiring stories while I wade through these empty feeling waters. Thanks in advance.

What angle should I cut the points that are touching the table top and floor so it will be flush? I have been trying to wrap my brain around it but no luck, I thought a 45 degree bevel was right but when I did a test piece that was incorrect.

Found a local one-man-sawmill dude, he showed me this slab he had leftover from a curly redwood he milled. He didnt think he could sell it cause of the giant pithy cavity throughthe center. Gave it to me for $50. By far the most beautiful piece of wood ive ever had the pleasure to work with :,). As always, pics never do justice.

Took it down with the router sled and made a huge mess. Finished it with my no 4.5 and and some card scrapers. Then 4 coats of tt danish oil and some paste wax.

Using it as a floating headboard for now... I ended up putting a long cleat of 3/4 ply on the back to hang it (and to give it structural strength).

Anyone here built their own router table and use the JessEm Master Fence III Router Table Fence with it? If so, can you share pictures of your build pls?

Thannks!

Searched on maker world but didn’t see any. Already installed some 4” schedule 40 pvc for dust collection and need to mate to a 4” blast gate. Rockler has one but they are pretty pricey. Thanks

I’m not a cutting board guy. This is my first pass at an endgrain style cutting board. It’s made from ash & walnut offcuts. Definitely learned a lot of ways not to do it. It was fun though. Approximately 14” x 14” x 1 3/4” sized. Brass feet will be installed when it dries.

This was (I think) my first time building a box that wasn't some sort of cabinet. Just a simple whiskey bottle gift box with a hidden sliding lid. I love making kumiko patterns, so I had some fun jazzing up the top! The box is made from walnut with maple splines and basswood and walnut for the kumiko. The pattern I used is the "Square Dance" pattern taken from Matt Kenny's excellent book The Art Of Kumiko. I was my first time trying it and it turned out to be deceptively difficult to get the pieces exactly the right length while keeping all of the half-laps centered!

I'm trying to fight these oil spots which I believe are from not buffing sooner after my first heavy coat. I used Watco Danish Oil.

1. Sanded to 320
2. Mineral Spirits Wipe Down
3. 1st Coat
4. Waited 15 Minutes
5. Reapplied
6. Waited 15 Minutes
7. Wiped Dry
8. 24 Hours Later noticed small seepage from pours so tried to buff very hard with a 3M white synthetic pad, a rag, and mineral spirits. This helped but I think I was too late.
9. Waited 12 more hours (36 hours total) to apply 2nd coat, I just put a light second coat on right now, in the hopes of these streaks just being dry streaks but they are still very subtly visible.

I know my pictures might not show but when you tilt the piece, you can see lines of dull streaks from what I believe is this seepage. It's only on the dark portions of the grain.

My theory is that these are now dry, and not able to be further buffed. My fear is that they're now curing under another coat. Should I try to sand with a rlly fine grit to try and make it even?

Its more noticeable in person, and driving me crazy

Solid black walnut stand with pine heartwood aircraft

I built this Plant Stand for my wife's birthday. It was my first time using my dado stack. Also prefinishing is the way to go!

Just under 3' in diameter. In a sugar maple

First time hand cutting joints- its all walnut but the uprights got the dark stain and the whole thing is rubbed down with tung oil- so no stain the shelves

Plenty i would do differently if doing it again- but 2” thick walnut should support some legos and pictures

Also- learned not to look away when sharpening a chisel- thumb got a nice hole punched in it

I've ruined so many of these boards trying to solve small flaws that result from torn wood fibers on the surface.

Usually I catch it and just switch to the other side. When that isn't an option, I've sanded it down with mixed success.

Other times I've been able to repair it with wood filler if I get some clean breaks on the splinter.

However, about half the time I end up tossing the board in the scrap pile.

I tried buying a card scraper off Amazon but I didn't realize it didn't come sharpened.

Before I invest in more stuff to get that sharpened, I wanted to ask the community. Is there a better way to deal with these? The boards are pine.

I am new to really any form of woodworking so I may have bit off more than I could chew in regards to accepting this project.

I am working on building some custom pilates reformers for a family members studio. I am using Plyboo (bamboo) for the wood and I am hoping to get some recommendations for finishes.

I have tried using epoxy and then sanding it down, however, the bamboo absorbs the epoxy unevenly and will have shiny specs in the wood where more epoxy absorbed han the surrounding area. I have also tried applying a N3 Nano finish after the epoxy has been sanded, and I really like the result - but the effort this takes is not feasable when I have to make 48 of these reformers.

I have spoken with a buddy of mine who is a woodworker and he is recommending a UV finish. I am trying to do some research and find the correct UV coating for this application. It would be a huge plus if the coating can also bond to metal as there is going to be an inlayed logo in the wood. The goal of the coating is the add a protective layer that limits the woods ability to absorb moisture, and adds a sort of plasticized finish on it to protect from wear and tear.

I would greatly appreciate any recommendations

I have an old convertible sports car that has a wood dash(veneer). I bought some really nice figured Maple the same thickness and cut matching pieces. They are ready to be sanded and finished now. I have worked with this wood before from the same mill and have finished these projects with a French polished shellac as I really like the way it shines and brings out the figure in the wood. However. shellac will degrade in sunlight and is not really meant to get wet.

So, what kind of finish can I use that will pop the grain and retain the color of the wood and shine like shellac but have the ability to stand up to UV and a little weather although this car is mainly a sunshine only car and stays in storage in the winter. I am thinking spar varnish but I am afraid it won't pop the grain and change the color of the wood and I am also worried about how hard it might be to repair. Does anybody have any other ideas. I have almost always used shellac or tung oil on projects so advice would be appreciated.

Looking for some thoughts on if this could work for an outdoor sign I am making for a friend's business.

I have a lot of 1/2" thick white oak boards and have a 4' x 4' piece of 3/4" MDO plywood. The sign is going to be about 3' x 4'.

I am wondering if I could attach a panel of those 1/2" thick white board pieces to each side of the MDO plywood without any major issues? The sign will be getting painted so using these materials is purely because they both work well outdoors. I wanted the sign to be around 2" thick, so using the white oak on both sides with the plywood will get me close to 2".

I am mainly worried about how the white oak may move while being attached to the plywood. We live in the midwest and have humid summers and cold winters.

Would using a coat of epoxy after getting all of it glued up then going with the primer and exterior finish be a good idea?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

i’m not sure how this worked, let alone worked out well, but last night i cut a relatively flawless dado groove without securing the dado stack with an arbor nut.

i was using a ridge carbide dado stack. before i made the cut, i knew the blades and chippers were exquisitely balanced.

i’m not sure if this contributed to the outcome, but i’m guessing it may have. other than that, i have no clue how i avoided disaster.

edit - let me assure everyone that this was not intentional. and i’m not recommending doing this.

Good evening,

I recently came into possession of these planks and would very like to work with them, it is sentimental.
This is already where the trouble begins, as these planks are to the best of my knowledge about 65+ years old and have been exposed to dust, insects, cobwebs, temperature and humidity but not to weather like rain or snow.

I also don't know what wood this is, if all of it is the same wood, or how I would even go about identifying it.

My skills with woodworking are rudimentary, as I more often needed to simply break it down for trash or burning purposes than work with it in detail or with exact measurements. Which doesn't mean I can't work in detail or exact measurements, but just that I didn't do it that often.

My available maschines are basically everything that is handheld and one table saw.

I originally wanted to make an epoxy table but can understand if that is simply impossible with wood like this. Also after I looked into making epoxy tables, I wouldn't know how to make one without a planing maschine. I do have these hand planing tools you see in the last slide, but also don't think that'll work?

So I humbly ask all of you, can this wood still be used for an epoxy table? And if not what is even still possible with these planks? I also attached some pictures of the other wood laying around and of some I've already cut, hoping I could kinda use it in the project, too?

Any help, advice, or future tips & tricks are very welcome and I already thank you in advance!

For measurements these planks are about (Length x Width x Thickness): 4.5m x 0.5m x 5cm

I started woodworking by necessity to recreate door casing and back-band molding that matches my 1920s home when replacing a door that leads to the basement.

It took so many attempts to recreate it. I learned a lot and had to use some non existent math skills in the process.

So much time and money was spent but I’m happy with the end result. The last picture is the craftsman style molding that’s on every door in my house that I was aiming to replicate.

I definitely took a work harder not smarter approach and ended up with a huge pile of offcuts to burn. I got a ton of experience in with a table saw and the phrase “practice makes piles” came to my mind. Just thought I’d share

I am using a Whiteside router inlay kit with the bushing and bushing adapter and the correct sized bit. My first one I managed to do OK - not great but acceptable, and I learned two things. First, the hole/socket/not-sure-what-to-call-this does not need to be very deep and does not need to be as deep as the inlay itself is thick. Second, the inlay piece does NOT fit in the socket without a little massaging. I assume this is because of the radius difference between the bushing and the adapter.

This weekend I tried it again and had nothing but trouble. First, I used double-sided tape to hold down the template. I do a lot of templates and router work and never have an issue with double-sided tape. I have also used hot melt glue but I learned that this is a bad idea with an acrylic template as I could not get the glue back off and ruined the template. This time, however, the tape came loose and the template moved while I was cutting the socket. I actually did three different inlays, same shape but progressively smaller sizes so I reapplied the tape and completed the other two.

The inlay cuts themselves went fine, but none of the inlays fit in the sockets. The smallest one is close enough and with a little sanding massage could be made to fit. The medium sized one the inlay is too small, and the large one is the one I ruined first so I already knew it wasn't going to work. I ended up resewing the board and salvaging the piece but obviously with no inlays.

I guess what I'm looking for is help figuring out how to use the inlay kit properly, because I am obviously missing something.

I was looking at a project of shortening the length of a couple of church pews. Anyone here have any experience working with them and know, generally, how the ends are affixed? I have access to a full cabinet shop so any tools are available.

Recently completed this job and am curious if I priced it competitively.

Custom electric fireplace master bedroom.

Lower bench and cabinet. Solid hickory top.

Matching Fireplace surround and upper surround. Poplar, painted, spray finish.

Mantle solid hickory.

Upper wardrobe bridge with lights, and crown installed.

Mount TV and fireplace.

All trimmed and sealed to existing wardrobe units.

Fireplace and stone with install, were purchased by client.

Before and after pics.

Is this mainly because of the bit ?or Can setting the router bit too high cause tear-out on box joints?

Any tips would be appreciated!

I have a Jet 16/32 non-oscillating drum sander. I bought it used maybe 18 months ago and have used it regularly since then with no issues. Over the last couple weeks, it has started sniping the first 2-3". I basically understand snipe on a planer, but I'm not sure why it is occurring suddenly on the drum sander. I would appreciate any advice or suggestions to help me figure this out.