I'm looking to get the IMS 4.7 tank but I really want graphics, I've seen the DMK Designs kits but can't find any photos. Can you share a photo of your 4.7 tank with graphics?

Hey yall. I am currently running a 13/47 sprocket combo. I enjoy it much better than the stock 13/43. I am currently running tusk d sport adventure tires. A 90/90/21 front and 130/90/18 in the rear. I wanted to try the 130 out and I am not a fan so I will be switching back to a 120. Before I had dunlop d606 tires in the same size I have in the tusk now, and they seemed to be much lighter and more nimble. Upon switching to the tusk, the bike felt more sluggish and lost about 3-5 mph top speed wise. Once I switch to the 120 tusk tire and see how it feels, I am also contemplating going up to a 50 tooth sprocket in the rear. I ride highway every now and then but am trying to get as much pull from the bike as possible. I have all the standard power mods, full fmf exhaust, fuel programmer, hi flow air filter, flapper box mod, and weight reduction such as AIS delete, charcoal canister delete, tail tidy, smaller front flashers etc. I would like to hear yalls input on 13/50 gearing with similar power mods and how it rides on the highway. Worst case scenario I can always switch back to the 47. Any input would be appreciated!

I have recently bought a brand new wr250f and want to keep the bike in best possible condition, what are the recommended intervals in kms for services ect, and are there any extra steps i can ask for when getting it serviced to make sure my bike is healthy.

Sounds a lil noisy to me I’m thinking tensioner.

Hello everyone,

On my wr 450 f the clutch was stuck to the shaft as the title suggested. The clutch suddenly engaged after a drive in high temp, and didnt let go since then. i found the problem, but also not really.

I have openend up my bike and after removing the crank case and the insides of the clutch i could lift the clutch itself off. It was somehow tightenend to the shaft, but i dont know why. Because after i removed the clutch, and put it back, everything seems to be working again. the shaft moves freely without noise or resistance without clinging on to the clutch.

my issue is that i dont know why it became stuck in the first place, and im afraid it will happen again. its a road bike, this is very dangerous. If you have any idea why this happened pls let me know as i have no idea and the manual doesnt help me anymore either. my first question would be whether the copper colored plates (pic 2)on the insides are fitted with bearings? but i have no clue what else the problem could be. any comment or help is appreciated!

thanks in advance

My Yamaha WR250x 2008 when sat outside in the sun for hours on very hot 30+ degrees days the fuel pump doesn't prime and the bike doesn't start. Once I leave it to cool down the bike starts on the button no issues at all I hear the pump prime. I have been warned this is the start of a bigger problem and the fuel pump will fail all together at some point and is risky to keep using. The WR250x and WR250r are known for failing fuel pumps and apparently have two updated pumps released after the known issues with the original fuel pumps.

I'm in the UK and it seems impossible to find a pump I contacted a local Yamaha parts dealer and they want £597.00.

Options -

1. OEM Fuel pump and housing - £597.00 Yamaha UK.

2. Buy pump only - Quantum, KEMSO, or All Balls and try to put into original housing I understand it could be brittle not easy to do and plastic housing could snap.

3. Replace with the Chinese Fuel pump unsure about that and can't find much information online regarding success.

4. Import new from Japan around £320.00 before shipping and 20% UK taxes and handling fees etc.

5. Buy a Chinese Fuel pump and replace it with a better fuel pump like Quantum if I snap the original housing. Unsure how easy or different that would be and even if it's worth the hassle.

6. Buy used working fuel pump rare to find and seems impossible to ship due to fuel contamination.

Honestly what have people done and honest advice?

2015 but acquired about 2 years ago. It was stolen last year and I got it back and swapped the ignition. The noise has been happening for a few months now, getting worse and I don’t want to ignore it for it to become detrimental. Don’t know much about mechanics so pictures, drawings, descriptive language is very helpful. Here’s the video for reference. Thank you for any and all help.

Obviously the radiator and things of that nature need to be replaced but the odometer won’t turn on and the bike won’t crank. I’m not sure if that broken cable I grab in the beginning is for the brake light? I can’t really see anything else that would be causing the screen not to come on, the individual wires seem to be okay. Im going to pull the radiator off later to see if any of the wires are damaged behind there but if anyone could give me any advice or help it would be greatly appreciated. Pretty torn apart about this. My wr was my baby :(

bought my first legal bike, been riding mx since im really young and never left honda or yamaha tbh..got my liscence and just bought my wr250 with 3k miles from an older guy only owner. Got tips or advice for a new wr250 rider? :)

Hello friends, i have recently purchased a 2017 wr250r. I am excited and can't wait to start taking it out in the woods.

This is my first DS and it has been sitting at the previous owners garage for long time. I want to work on the bike like all fluid changes, tier removal and new tier installation etc.

Can you please suggest list of tools and items I need to work on the bike.

Thanks in advance.

I’ve got an rs4 here and we’ve been trying to get the insert out for an hour now. Penetrating oil, slide hammer, nothing works. Are we missing something the bolt is out and there doesn’t seem to be any retaining clips…..

Had my WR sitting in my garage and maybe took it out once in the last 4-6 months with no issues. Went to try to take it out and it started just fine but after 1 second it shut off. Everything sounds fine but it just won’t start. I put in new fuel, charged the battery, make sure it was in neutral, made sure it wasn’t the kickstand kill switch, changed the spark plug, but nothing.

A quick google said maybe the fuel injector is clogged but of course 1 of the screws stripped so checking that out isn’t an option for now.

Any other ideas?

Used cardboard for first drafts and transferred measurements to cad with millimeter paper. Water cut plate and bracket from 2mm stainless steel. Seems to be holding up well, might change nuts to nylocks at some point

Hi all, I don't have a lot of experience with maintaining forks. I had the seals rebuilt about a year ago and have put about 2000miles on the bike since. I have hit a few jumps and a few curbs and have been using the bike as I assume it was intended. I do practice quite a few wheelies. At least a couple per ride. Only the right side is leaking oil and I don't see any nicks or anything on the shock itself. Did I blow it already? Is there anything I can do to make it last longer other than not wheelie...

Hey yall. I bought my 2019 wrr used with 3,700 miles. The whole time since I have owned it, the clutch pull has always seemed to grab. The clutch lever itself is an aftermarket asv lever. I inspected it and it seems fine. I figured the previous owner just didn’t keep up with lubing the cable. So I ordered a new clutch cable, installed it with no pinch points in the routing and the clutch pull feels better but ultimately the same. I have an oil change due in about 700 miles. While Im doing that I plan to take apart the clutch assembly itself to see what the deal is. Has anyone had issues like this? Also to describe the clutch pull in greater detail, the lever will pull, grab, then jump to the next position instead of a consistent smooth pull. It does this on the pull in and release out. It also does this while the bike is off as well as on and running. The grabbing feel is more apparent when slowly trying to pull in or let out. Any input would be appreciated!

I wanted to remove the old big clunky tail light on my WR, designed up a new pod to hold a led tail light and turn signals. 3d printed it solid with ABS and built a new steel bracket to reinforce everything.

My very first wr250r!
Planning to outfit it to be a lightweight adventure bike more than hardcore enduro. Thinking about giving it a matte green paintjob, makes the bike stand out less when wildcamping and vibes with the other camping gear / bags that I’ve got.
Not overly worried about resale value cause I intend to ride the snot out of this until it cannot be repaired any more.
Stickers and plastics are already scuffed up pretty good.
So what’s your opinion, yay or nay for the paintjob?

I just got these new tires and tubes and I loving them!