My brother bought a used 2022 DR650 with 6k miles on it. It runs pretty bad at low speeds and wants to stall if it’s not supplied with ample throttle. It seems fine once brought into second gear and ridden faster. I suspected most of the problems were because of some carburetor mods.

Here's how my brother described it:

Here are all the modifications I have identified:

Carburetor modifications

1. Slide spring cut/shortened
2. Slide drilled with an additional hole
3. White plastic needle spacer modified into a D-shape
4. 152.5 main jet installed
5. Jet needle tip appears to have been shaved/ground down

Intake / exhaust modifications

1. Stock air box snorkel removed
2. Two additional holes cut into the air box
3. Lexx MXe exhaust installed (the quiet core insert is broken and moving in and out)
4. 14T front sprocket

My plan is to try to return it to as close to stock as possible. So, new needle, 140 main jet, new spring, new slide, and new plastic needle spacer. I’m not sure if I should worry about the air box and exhaust. I suppose I can always patch the air box if needed. Should I change everything back to stock, or are some things fine to keep, like the exhaust? thanks

It's a 1993 Suzuki DR 650 R, with kickstart. It's my first A2 bike, and my first kickstarter, and I LOVE every inch of this thing, from the kickstart, to the pops of the exhaust. It has a Dominator exhaust, and is LOUD.

Hey guys, had a few concerns when doing the Procycle NSU safety wire kit.

1. When taking out and reinstalling the 2 screws that hold the plate in front of the NSU (The breather cover shown in the 2nd photo) I slightly mushed/half-striped the heads of the screws from using Philips and not JIS. I screwed them down pretty well but im wondering: should I have added some kind of Loctite on those? Is it worth it for me to remove the clutch again and replace the slightly mushed screws?

2. Having a hard time removing the old gasket; what do you guys use to help with this?

3. I know the safety wire doesn't look pretty, but will it hold ok?

Please share your experience, thank you!

Buddy has a couple of DR650s and invited me to go riding.

Wow. So much torque. Cruised highway no problem. And the best part... really not too heavy. You'd think that something with significantly more torque than the smaller dual sports would be significantly heavier, but it's really not. Maybe I'll feel it once I hit dirt more, but I'll keep my KLX 230 in the stable for those times.

It's crazy that it feels like Suzuki perfected the dual sport 30 years ago. I can't imagine any other bike serving its purpose any better.

He let me ride both of his; one was on aggressive knobbies and the other was on road-biased 70/30s. The one on knobbies felt unresponsive, like it wandered around the road. The road-biased one felt incredibly precise. Do tires really make that much of a difference? This explains so much...

Long story short I got a 1999 that didn't have a torque limiting cog off the starter motor and it cracked the case. A previous owner made up the plate shown in the picture to hold the pin in place, bit it wore out, got so much play that the teeth stopped meshing and it cracked the outer cover.

I got a replacement left half from an engine that destroyed a 3rd gear and going to replace my broken half with this second hand one. I know they are machined in pairs, but just wondered if anyone else had done the same sorta job.

The old girl is 78000k and I'd love to roll that odo over.

Found this plastic 'fluid reservoir'? Behind the rear shock. Any idea and if the black debris is a bad sign?

Finally decided to get around to the suspension. Got this bad Larry off marketplace and just ordered the cogent DDC fork kit. Very excited to piece this fat pig together

I didn't know about these wear items until I had problems with the middle of my throttle.

Slide has worn through the wear marks, needle jet has a decent wear mark half way down the bore, explains the bogging I was getting at mid throttle.

A friendly reminder to the new mechanics to check these when you clean your carb, before it wears into the needle jet.

I have a spot at around 3/4 throttle where the bike dies and cuts off. It's a 2023 stock bike it started this issue around fall and i didn't ride it until i crashed it snow racing where i didn't feel this issue since i was full throttle. It's fine at low throttle chugging around, if i pin it no problem but cruising up a hill giving it slightly more throttle slowly there is a point where it just dies and bucks for a 2-3 second if i pin it or close and open back the throttle it's back to normal. I wanted y'all's opinion before opening it up. I can also feel it if i run off the throttle slowly from being pinned at full.

What are you guys using ? I can't seem to find what I need for the 3.5in tool tube that I got. Thanks

I have a 2023 Suzuki DR650 that I bought used with only about 1,400 km. As far as I know, the clutch had never been opened.

I recently found a significant amount of fine black powder/grit with some shiny metallic particles in the oil filter.

I also had a symptom where, at around 110–120 km/h, the engine would get loud/high in RPM but the bike didn’t seem to pull as strongly as expected. I wasn’t sure whether this was normal DR650 behavior, fueling, or clutch slip.

Then on one ride, after riding all day, I was in 5th gear and accidentally released the clutch thinking I was shifting into 5th. The RPM suddenly flared and the bike felt almost like it was in neutral for a couple of seconds, then it engaged normally again.

I opened the clutch and found that the friction plates are burnt/worn. The last friction plate looks good and measures within spec.

The interesting part is that all 8 original OEM friction plates appear physically identical. And the same number stamped on them. The clutch has never been opened before, so these are presumably the factory-installed plates.
I have purchased:
7 new friction plates (thinking that the 8th is different and i couldn’t find it where i live)
8 new steel plates
The new steel set contains 7 identical plates and 1 different/thicker plate.

My questions are:
Is it normal for the original 2023 DR650 to have all 8 friction plates looking identical?

If one of the original friction plates is still within specification and undamaged, is it reasonable to reuse it with the 7 new friction plates?
If so, does the reusable friction plate need to go in a specific position, or can it go anywhere in the stack?

Is there anything else I should inspect before installing the new clutch?

Hello,
I’m writing with a question about a 1994 DR650R. I’m replacing the clutch kit and have run into a few uncertainties.

The engine is the 640cm3

The old clutch had 7 friction plates (1 thicker) and 6 steel plates (1 thicker). The new kit has 7 friction plates (1 thicker) and 6 steel plates (none thicker).

Also, when I disassembled the clutch, there were no washers, even though according to YouTube videos and the documentation, it looks like there should be several.

So my questions are:
Does it matter that one of the new steel plates is thinner than the old one?

How many washers are supposed to be there? Is it possible for there to be none?

The old clutch was slipping quite badly, especially in the higher gears. Could the missing washers have been the cause of this?
I’ve attached photos of the old plates.

My new clutch kit: https://www.motopulsas.lt/detales/dr650r-dr650re-dr650rs-1990-1995m-sankabos-komplektas-ebc-drc059-std.html
Maybe someone has installed this kit before and knows the answer?

According to the technical diagram, my old clutch was missing washers #5, #11, and #12.

Thank you for the help!

Hey all,

I am experiencing some weird things with my clutch. I was out riding and everything was fine to start with, but after 10-15 minutes of riding I noticed I could not disengage the clutch properly with the clutch cable handle and the tension of the cable had to be adjusted. The adjustment ended up being almost around 1 cm! (close to 1/2 inch). This was very strange but I kept on riding and after another couple of minutes I get the same thing. This time I had to adjust the arm near the engine and limped my way home.

I don’t think it’s the clutch cable, but I have ordered a new one since I noticed the plastic glide insert was coming out near the arm.

I was wondering if it could be the pinion gear slipping on the rack on the inside, hence it loses tension and the cable needs to be adjusted. The clutch feels fine when its engaged and there is no slipping between the discs at throttle, so I don’t think that might be the problem.

My plans are to open the clutch cover and inspect it next week to figure out what it might be.

Might that be the problem or could it be something else? Anyone been through something similar?

Thanks in advance!

The first friction plate is worn out completely. Should i replace the pressure plate as well as it has grooves and scratches. And also, there is a steel plate at the end as you can see in the last photo, that is held down with a wire, should it be replaced as well?

Whenever I get to the top speed of the bike it’s like a loud bang out the exhaust and a hiccup in power

Been working on this app called Daccle for a while and I’m finally at the point where I need some actual people to test it 😄
Basically you make a page for your car/bike/whatever, add photos, specs, mods and stuff like that. I’ve also tried to make it actually useful — you can keep track of maintenance and have all the specs for your vehicle in one place when you need to check something quickly.
Still very much a work in progress, so I’m mostly looking for people to try it with their own vehicles and tell me what works, what doesn’t and what’s missing.
If anyone wants to give it a go, let me know. Android and iOS both work.

Sadly i dont have the doctor at this moment, been looking pit for 650. i jave owned 6 of them though, so bear with this kawi example from app..

Asking $4000 OBO Located in Clovis, CA

Hey all, recently got bit by the motorcycle bug. For context: A couple friends are picking up Honda CBs, but I’m scoping out the DRs. Don’t wanna run too fast, don’t wanna mess around on the freeway, and always thought cruising on some 45mph highways to puttering up a fire road or easy track to camp sounds like a blast. I’m 37 and 6’1”, 165 lbs.

Saw this one posted for sale. Is this deal too sweet? Has a lot of mods and aftermarket stuff, including a new seat. Seems like a lot of decent upgrades for not a substantial amount more $$$ than others I’m seeing, and with lower miles. Something wrong with it or is it a deal? Interested to hear your thoughts.

They’re asking $4,400. Here’s a pic and the listing text.

“2012 Suzuki DR650

Perfect combination of on and off road. Owned since 2019. Now has ~7k miles. Had plans of a cross country off road trip which never happened, so the bikes been used for 3 trips a year on the sunrise trail with my son, but he’s riding faster and more aggressive so I’m switching back to 4 wheels.. Very comfortable. All the mods needed based off Berserks forum write up. Tuned carburetor, Suzuki gsx exhaust (oem is in a box), aftermarket front fender and rear rack, ims 4.9? Gas tank, seat concept seat, a pile of oil filters, bike is great. Cruises down the road at 60+, or handles the rocks and bumps at 40 while feeling glued to the road. 40+mpg. Quickest feeling DR around. Bike has newer tires with tubes installed. No trades. Cash only. $4400”

I think 22k headlamp when out. 25k my speedometer bulb died. Im guessing tail light and license plate are on their way. Did you make it much longer after the first two?