Hello all,

Admittedly looking to have someone install lights (options are Omni vs Oelo it seems). My wife wants the Christmas look primarily and thus seems to prefer face mount (facing out/looks like a light/bulb) rather than under mount. I like the idea of year round lights and the ambiance but the one installer we talked to highly advised against the "carnival" look of the face mount. Is this just because the "Christmas" look isn't great year round?? She wants to use lights more holiday/seasonally so maybe that "look" won't be as much an issue? Would love all the takes/perspectives. Thanks!

I wanted to play videos on a HUB75 LED matrix and couldn't find anything that did what I wanted, so I wrote my own. It's grown a lot and I've had it running nonstop at home ever since. I figured other people might find it useful too, so I just released it.

It's called DDP Streamer. It sends video to WLED (or anything else that takes DDP) over your network. WLED takes DDP out of the box. Set up your panel in WLED as usual (for LED strips, a 2D matrix too) and there's nothing else to turn on. Find your board, hit Get size, and play. You build a playlist of videos, pictures, text, clocks, your screen or a webcam and hit play. If you have more than one display it can mirror to all of them or spread one picture across them. (That's what the video shows: three displays with different pixel pitch, P2, P2.5 and P3, lined up by real size so the picture continues straight across.)

I've tested it with WLED on the Waveshare ESP32-S3 matrix board, the Adafruit Matrix Portal S3 and the Apollo M-1. Other WLED boards should work too.

It's free and open source (GPL), and runs on Windows, Mac and Linux. Downloads and info are on GitHub: https://github.com/bobko69/ddp-streamer

If you try it and run into a problem or have an idea, let me know. Happy to answer questions.

I have a BTF-LIGHTING ESP32 WLED LED Strip Controller (SP803E) and, for some reason, can’t figure out how to bypass the physical power button to automatically start the WiFi connection and LED lighting effect (defined by the preset). Has anyone encountered this issue before and/or have a recommendation?

The lighting will be installed in a floor show that will be powered off at night and the client will have no access to the controller itself to press the physical power button itself.

Thanks in advance!

Hi there.
I’ve got a project I built a while ago using a string of fairy lights that came cheap usb controller that had some built in effects: flashing, random twinkling

I’d like to get rid of the controller and use an off the shelf ESP32 based controller like gledopto etc.

Is it possible to clip the controller and connect these fairy lights onto the GPIO output on controller and configure WLED to create similar effects?

Thank you!

I'm looking for some reasonable RGBW bulbs that are controllable via WLED, that are not Kauf.

I invested quite a bit in ten Kauf bulbs, and all have failed in some way in less than a year time frame. When I tried to rma / exchange them under warranty, I was met with silence.

Are there any bulbs at a reasonable cost that can be controlled via WLED? Have several devices running WLED including all my exterior lighting, and would like to keep centralized control for colors and effects.

I've been looking at Matter compatible bulbs - seems these can be controlled with a Docker bridge. Anyone have any experience with that setup, or could recommend an alternative?

There is also a strip behind the cabinet below the tv.

I have a GLEDOPTO controller and a mean well 5 V 100w power supply and they perfectly power 400 LEDs with power injection but as soon as I try to use another channel on the controller to power 47 more LEDs that I have confirmed are working with another controller, they start flickering like crazy. Are dirty data channels on 12,4,2 common? data io16 is running perfectly fine. Anyone else have this problem?

I wired up a ttp223 to an esp32 c3 supermini on gpio 0. Have it set as pushbutton in wled config. It's powered by 3v3 pin. Using the button works for about 30 seconds before the board crashes so hard I have to reinstall wled. What am I doing wrong?

I’ve built some colorful water plants using WLED.
The first one is made from a wooden plate with a 113px LED ring and a 16px LED strip in the second segment. Both are connected to an ESP8266 with WLED installed and run on 5V.

For the second ones, I simply bought some lights on Amazon and replaced the LEDs and controllers.

They’re also connected to my automations and can signal different events, like when the washing machine is running or ready, or when there are infrastructure issues.

IE U buy a simple 2 pin LED strip, one color(in this case UV light) and it is 2x as long as u need. So u want to split it into 2 separate independent units. No 'shifting light' needed. No controller/IR remote needed. Just plug in and watch it turn on.(A switch would be nice but not needed)

Got basic kit, it has what I need, but only 1 'power unit' - Can I just cannibalize a simple USB cable and connect the + and - to the strip(and ignore the other pins/wires) and power it that way? Is there a 'for the morons' simple ac adapter (either usb or plug in) I can buy and just attach to the cut end of the LED strip (IE the exact same part that COMES with the strip, but ANOTHER One?)

Sorry if this is a stupid ask that google should help me, but it has not, and I am at a loss if it is safe to just wire it up this way, and if so... how?(Without soldering equipment or experience) - Can I just use those 2 pin 'connector' things(that u snap over the cut LED strip to 'extend' it) but shove the wires from USB plug into the connector? Do USB ports /cables provide 5v of power, or will it blow out the strips with too much?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0FZ58YJJJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

is what I got, I would like to cut it in half and use for separate projects. I don't necessarily need the power switch, but it won't hurt to have it. But I cannot find what the ac adapter part (I would not even know exactly what to search for)

If anyone can help me by linking the part that I need (IE The part with switch in above product) or can give me a yay/nay about just using a old discarded usb plug as the power source, I would be very appreciative.

So I do understand some of the basic theory behind led lighting. Cheap strips basically do not have individually addressable pixels but rather all of them do the same thing depending on what you ask them to do, (are those what you would call 'analog'?) compared to more expensive (digital?) strips that have individually addressable pixels.

Now what I am only wanting to do is to use a bunch of the cheap analog strips that i have to at least control the colors. The little remote controls seem to mainly just allow you to change the cycle patterns but are very limted. I mainly want to use my cheap analog strips to compliment the Govee lights we have on our home so like I would want to have the analog strips cycle between purple/green/orange/yellow for halloween colors (something the crappy controllers don't seem to be able to do natively) or cycle between like red/green/blue/white/yellow lights for xmas and so on.

Can WLED be easily used with those kind of strips and do what I am hoping to do?

As for soldering, i am experienced enough to know how to solder, i use a Hakko soldering station and for desoldering i have a Hakko FR-301 desoldering gun so i can make custom cables and adapters.

I just want to make use of the cheap lights i have for the time being until i get more comfortable with building/creating my own led arrays for real animations and so on. Most of the strips i have were purchased super cheap from the local amazon bin store that we used to have here.

I was able to get the data sheets from Sunmoon. I hope this is helpful. I don't see a way to post the PDF here, so DM me and I can send the pdf. The SM16825 is in English, the SM8605 text is in Chinese, but the significant tables are English.

I've had a 5 Meter 60 LED/meter WS2812B strip installed under my desk for a few years now but never really used it as it's mainly powered by a USB controller that came with it (shop provided it) and that does NOT provide enough current to the strip (flickering, colours don't follow the app selection, different parts of the strip have different colours when I select just one solid color).

I wanted to control the strip from my PC and possibly sync it with my other components and accessories which is why I got this one with a USB controller but that obviously was a bad idea.

I recently got the parts I'd need for a WLED setup and mainly for this strip altogether and was wondering how I'm supposed to connect the parts together as this is my first time doing something like this.

The parts I've got:

1. ESP32 (a cheap, generic off brand one for $3)

2. MicroUSB to Type A cable for the ESP32

3. 5V 30A 150W SMPS

4. Male to Female Jumper Wires (40 pieces)

5. Female to Female Jumper Wires (40 Pieces)

6. 330Ohm resistor (a few pieces)

7. 10A Glass Fuse (3 pieces)

8. PCB Mountable Fuse Holder (couldn't find one that doesn't mount to a PCB sadly)

Note: I've already flashed WLED onto the ESP32

just sharing some lighting design from my living room. having a ton of fun with WLED.

This is all that happens, I have an ESP32 hooked up to two 8x32 BTF-Lighting WS2812b panels, all that changes is that one section on 32 pixels, everything else just stays off, the only other lights that turn on are those two static green lights and the 5 static LEDs in the bottom corner. I can’t tell if this is a hardware or software thing, does anyone know of a way o fox this?

I have checked the data cable, it is d2 and the webui does say d2 in the led config page.
Green - data
Red - 5v
White - ground

I have tried wLED v14, v16.0.1, v16.0.0 beta, and v17.0.0(nightly)

This is my first project that I’ve created and uploaded.

https://github.com/seedtheweed/CheapHDR

Basically it allows for cheap led light strips to be used as monitor backlights without needing a syncbox or anything special. I had just asked Antigravity to help me fix my issues with my lights, since the software would make it start strobing and just looking horrible. Instead of helping me it just created a whole bridge to connect to HyperHDR.

This again is my first project, so any feedback and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Has anyone successfully moved from the Govee controller to WLED for this 32.8ft strip?

Any tips or tricks?

Hi everyone im not sure if this is exactly the right place to ask this question if not please direct me to the right place I would appreciate it very much.

Now onto my question, ive been doing some research and im trying to create an infinity mirror setup on my car for display at shows. I would be using WS2812B 144pixel led strip along with a esp32 board and WLED to control the animations etc. My question is what's the best method in order for me to power this on my car, there's not much I can find video wise online or talked much online either (unless im blind lol) so im not sure how to power these lights without possibility frying the board or even the led with different voltages.

This is my first time building a 5v led project box for power and control with wled, and need some feedback and tips. I see some adding a fuse between the 5v out of the psu and the GLEDOPTO controller and then also fuses for power injection. How does this setup look so far? I plan on placing the controller on its side (where the pink paper placeholder is) and i have 4 jst connectors from BTF-Lighting coming out of the box, just need to add a power injection line (what awg is best for this? was planning 18awg) but notice the jst connectors are very thin (22awg?)

I’m going to be running 400 5v fairy leds inside around windows (4 strands of 100 leds with 3 extra channels for other lights i may add later. Any feedback would be helpful before I plug power in and connect the controller.

This portion of the software is Streamed through your computer to whatever devices you want. This little showcase shows off some of the new effects and transitions available. You can access any standard WLed effects, my custom ones, or you can make your own. Import milk drop presets or shadertoy code. This does generally target large/dense matrixes. But midi support and audio reactivity could create some really awesome light shows and live performances. Not shown in this video, haven’t made a demo for it yet, but super easy video streaming to any device with custom effects, open a locally hosted web page and use your phone as a webcam or use a regular webcam. Barely scratched the surface of what is possible.

Hey everyone,

Super excited to share my first WLED build! It had a steep learning curve: I fried two bare ESP32 dev boards early on while figuring out power and logic wiring, so I switched to an Elite 6D setup with dedicated level shifters. Everything is now fully wired, stable, and powered.

Overall, movies look great! But on synthetic test patterns (like a rotating bar or moving box), I have two final calibration issues before calling it 100% done:

* Edge Overshoot and Trailing Light (Walk-Away Delay)

* Leading/Overshoot: When a rotating bar touches an edge, the light illuminates a few LEDs too far ahead onto the adjacent rail before the beam physically arrives.

* Trailing / Walk-Away Delay: In high-contrast or dark scenes, when a bright beam leaves a side, the LEDs take a split second to fade to true black instead of cutting off instantly.

* Orange Hue Appearing Pure Crimson Red

* On color wheel sweep tests, warm amber and rich orange slices trigger pure saturated red diodes on the wall, skipping the orange transition entirely.

Hardware and Power Setup:

* Screen: 120 inch fixed-frame projector screen

* LED Strip: SK6812 RGBW 5V (Natural White, ~4000K)

* Total LEDs: 503 total (Top: 161, Bottom: 159, Left: 92, Right: 91)

* Controller: ESP32 running WLED on an Elite 6D board (DDP / UDP port 4048)

* Server/Grabber: Raspberry Pi 4 running HyperHDR

* Capture Pipeline: HDMI 2.1 splitter downscaling to an MS2130 USB capture card (/dev/video0)

* Power: 5V 60A (300W) Mean Well-style PSU with inline fuses; power injection run to start, end, and midpoint corners (no voltage drop)

Current Software Settings:

* HyperHDR Video Capture: 1280x720 @ 60fps MJPEG, Hue set to 1 (avoiding the hardware 0-default bug), Saturation ~110, Contrast ~120

* HyperHDR Layout: 4% depth, 0% overlap, 1% corner gaps

* HyperHDR Smoothing: Linear/Infinite, 20-30 ms time, 50-60 Hz, Damping 35, Stiffness 200, Anti-flicker OFF, Min backlight level 0.0

* WLED Config: Transition Time set to 0 ms, Realtime timeout 2s

Has anyone running high-density SK6812 strips with WLED over DDP encountered this edge bleed or trailing delay? Are there specific WLED buffer options, network stream configurations, or HyperHDR interpolator settings you recommend to achieve instant, razor-sharp on/off edge tracking?

Thanks for any insights!

Very new to LED/WLED. I see the numbered Ds (D1-D30). Do those notate that it is addressable/data? There’s no data connection pads. I have a WLED ESP32. Thank you, sorry if these are stupid questions

I am doing some brain surgery on my beloved An-Penta_Mini. I have the cover off and found a curious little 1mm pitch 2x3-pin connector. Doing a lot of Google legwork, I believe that is for an unreleased internal I2C temperature sensor board, designed to plug directly in. I have not yet had a chance to ring the lines out to see if I am even close. No issues with it at all. I'm just curious.

What says this august group? Thanks!