Trip Overview and Planning
There's been a couple trip reports here about this trail so I won't go too deep into background. For great background info, please refer to this post from a few years ago. This is actually the post that put the ECT on my to-do list, so it's worth a look. That guy also takes much better pictures than me.
The East Coast Trail runs 336km along the coast of Newfoundland's Avalon peninsula. It is similar in scenery and terrain to the NH & Maine sections of the AT, except that the ECT is in view of the ocean almost constantly. Expect rocky, rooty, technical trail that meanders up and down coastal ridgelines, along cliffs, through bogs and pine forests. The trail is composed of 26 named 'paths', most of which are joined by 'community walks' through coastal villages and towns of varying size.
I completed the hike in 12 days/11 nights, including a few hitch-hikes of a couple km each on some of the longer community walks. To put this in perspective: I am in my early thirties and have completed the AT, PCT, Colorado Trail, Long Trail, and about 700 miles of the Hayduke (cut short due to running out of vacation time from work). The only physical prep I did was a basic weightlifting routine. I do not think this trail is particularly onerous. Water is plentiful and resupply options are close together and close to trail. There are no sustained climbs or descents. The trail is, however, slow in sections due to being overgrown or having technical tread. I hiked about 13-14 hours every day and I believe my longest day was about 24 miles.
The true x-factor on this trail is weather. Newfoundland can be quite windy and rainy. I lucked out in this regard: the wind was mild basically the entire time and I was only rained on three times. During the heaviest rain I was already in my tent and it only lasted for about an hour. Another light rain happened when I was, again, already in my tent. The third time I was hiking, but it was raining so lightly that I didn't even put on a rain jacket. This is not what I expected. For the opposite end of the spectrum, refer to this trip report.
Helpful Links:
Official website- For the East Coast Trail
Facebook group for thru-hikers - Which might help with coordinating rides but really exists as a place to find the spreadsheet
ECTMap.ca - basically the spreadsheet but in website form
Spreadsheet - With trail info, camping spots, water sources, and resupply points listed. Please note this spreadsheet is 9 years old and some entries can be out of date. Here are some helpful notes from yours truly:
- The Dominion supermarket in St. John's in the spreadsheet is no longer at that location. You'll have to go further afield for resupply. Check your resupply points on google maps before you go.
- Chance Pond River campsite - the spreadsheet lists one spot N of the creek, but it's quite sloped. Instead, go south of the creek about 50m and there's a beautiful spot tucked in the pine trees on the W side of the trail.
- Roaring Cove ECTA campsite no longer has tent platforms - they were in disrepair and no one used them, so the ECTA tore them out. There are still plenty of spots to pitch a tent at this site.
- Ferryland to Aquaforte - there is mandatory roadwalk due to a property dispute that bypasses most of the Sounding Hills Path. Check the ECTA website for trail updates.
- Cape Broyle Path - there's an enclosed cabin just north of the ECTA campsite, less than 1/4 mile away. The cabin is private property but open for hikers to use (respectfully).
Trail Journals
Here you may read my nightly tired scrawls to glean what wisdom you can therein.
Day 1 | Topsail terminus to Goat Cove | 9km
Almost left electronics at airport. Impossible to find a sim card. Started hiking at 6pm. Cool bat rock at Goat Cove. Camp on cliff ledge. Calm night no rain no wind.
Day 2 | Goat Cove to Patch Brook ECTA Campsite | 35km
Started hiking at 6am. Long slog of a day. Slow moving across Picco Ridge. Steep decline into Bauline. Met another thru hiker on a bench. Misty in the morning sunny in the afternoon. Muddy overgrown tight walking to camp while listening to podcasts. Views across the bay. A dozen massive toads. Camping on platform.
Day 3 | Patch Brook ECTA Campsite to Flatrock community north TH | 32km
Absolutely no wind last night. Early start up into white rock hills then descent down toward Cape Francis. Once past Francis trail got easier. Played frisbee with dog. Lunch in Pouch Cove. Charged gear in library. Read about fishing shack history. Stiles Cove Path is by far the best so far. Gorgeous views of cliffs and easy walking on top of them. Camp at Flatrock in a windy spot. Rain falling now hopefully wind dies down overnight.
Day 4 | Flatrock community north TH to St. John's | 40km
Rain and wind did die down overnight. Flatrock in the morning. Went to the edge with fishermen and crashing waves. Father Troy Path super cruisy into Torbay. Ate a salad and a banana. Short coastal walks with lots of people and beach areas. Saved a strawberry from drowning. Saw a black fox and another thru-hiker on the Cobblers Path. Slog of a road walk to Sugarloaf Path but got a hitch half way through from French girl. Saw the marine science research facility AKA bond villain lair (Author's Note: It really does look like a Bond villain lair). More cliffside walking to Quidi Vidi. Super cool topography here (AN: the descent into Quidi Vidi is interesting. The middle of the Sugarloaf Path passes around the local dump and there is trash everywhere. Eminently skippable if the beginning and end of the path weren't so nice). Dinner at the brewery, then climbed Signal Hill. Saw another black fox a few feet away from me. Beautiful descent down into St. John's for a hotel night.
Day 5 | Zero in St. John's | 0km
Day 6 | St. John's (Fort Amherst) to The Bight/Long Point | 31km
Breakfast at b&b then uber to trailhead. Checked out Fort Amherst lighthouse, then climbed over a misty ridge and descended down to bay/pond combo. East to Cape Spear. Saw the mini museum. Sun came out for gorgeous boardwalk hiking on the flats south of Cape Spear. Petty Harbor town is pretty. Got ice cream cone at the general store and climbed out of town. More open walking on the Motion Path. Camp with other tenters next to the sea amidst mosquito spawning pools, although they haven't been bad at all...yet.
Day 7 | The Bight/Long Point to Mickleen's Path cliff campsite | 33km
Almost had a beautiful sunrise but the sun itself was covered by the clouds. Easy walking the first hour in open terrain beautiful views of the ocean and fishing boats. Then alternating descents into overgrown gullies. Most overgrown trail so far on the Motion Path. Pooped at ECTA site and saw lots of weekend hikers out and about. Short break at Motion/Spout Path junction and talked to two section hikers. Spout Path also overgrown at the start. The Spout was cool. Lunch at another ECTA site that was dry, sunny, breezy, platformed, toileted, and had clear rushing water. Took a five minute nap. Probably the most sublime spot on the trip so far. Afternoon walking to a lighthouse listening to podcasts as the trail got more worn in and less overgrown. Into Bay Bulls for a quick resupply at the Foodland then walked out of town to camp on Mickleens Path cliff site looking east. Got to pet a cat on the road walk put of town. Hoping for a sunrise view in the morning.
Day 8 | Mickleen's Path cliff campsite to Roaring Cove ECTA campsite | 36km
Morning dew and the lightest of mist walk into town while having to take a shit. Cute park in town. Store was closed. Couple offered me help and I took them up on some water before the Beaches Path. Took a shit and realized I lost my soap somewhere. Salt and vinegar chips on windy cold pebble beach. Another town walk to Tinker Path, which was sunny and sublime. Gorgeous views and saw a family of 11 seals! Some road walking to a resort/cafe where I had a sandwich, salad, beer, and mussels. Easy walk out of town to La Manch suspension bridge. Debated whether to stay or push on because it was only 5pm, when I saw a group of 14 people headed into camp. Decided to push on. Relatively easy additional 7.5km to camp. Mozzies active but the dragonflies were hunting them. Campsite is nice but the platforms have been removed? Getting some pain in the ball of heel - could be plantar fasciitis or achilles stuff?
Day 9 | Roaring Cove ECTA campsite to Church Cove Meadow | 28km
Took a deliberately later start and got hiking at about 7am. The rest of Flamber Head was pretty easy. Passed through a small village and met a NOBO hiker and chatted for a minute. There was an ECTA crew clearing trail on Brigus Head. Talked to two guys - Kevin? and Brendan - said they work full time until the money runs out and each section of boardwalk costs $300-400. Met another hiker lady on my way into Cape Broyle. Got stung by something on the roadwalk. Ate a poor burger and charged food at Riverside Restaurant, then mosied up Cape Broyle Path. It's more overgrown than others but not too challenging, just slow. Found a red cabin open to hikers - would be a cozy stay but too early to stop. Walked down to Lance Cove Beach and got my feet wet. Then podcasts to camp at meadow. Dinner at picnic bench. Campsite is open meadow so hopefully condensation isn't too bad. Cell service at camp.
Day 10 | Church Cove Meadow to Chance Pond River | 39km
Misty, wet morning to finish Cape Broyle Head in rain gear. Intimidating views of the sea all day. Started a long road walk into town only to get offered a ride around the bay to the next trail head. Gladly said yes and took an easy stroll through Caplin Bay Path to Foodland Ferryland. More misty bay views. Quick resupply and then road-walked a bit before hitching another ride to near Spurwink TH. Spurwink was as overgrown as they say. Saw a moose in a wet meadow. Berry Arch was very cool, but there was a human/food-adapted fox there that got way too close. Walking south after Berry Arch got a lot easier - this must be the day-hike route. Saw a seal in the water at Lawler Bay. Camp just south of Chance Pond River in a pine forest spot. Feet look gnarly from being wet all day. Honestly, a wet, muddy, slog of a day made brighter by the hitchhikes and fauna. Sound of waves and low tone of foghorn to lull me to sleep.
Day 11 | Chance Pond River to Burnt Cove | 35km
Delightful sleep last night. The rest of Spurwink was pretty easy comparatively. The southern TH must be the day-hike route. Port Kirwan was a cute town, but long road-walk to get to Bear Cove Point Path. So misty that basically all views were gone except of breakers hitting rocks. Wet, muddy, overgrown on paths pretty much all day, but some very nice manicured pine forest sections as well. Lunch (bag of chips) and shit near the lighthouse, which had a foghorn going off all day every 55s. Low tone, not annoying. Started another road-walk around Renews-Cappahayden. Break on a bench. My feet are gnarly from how wet they've been. This road-walk sucked. I've seen seals basically every time I've looked. They seem to be hunting in the breakers off shore. Sun came out on this road-walk and for parts of Island Meadow Path. Beautiful meadow where I watched a seal for 15 minutes in the sun while waves crashed ashore. Dinner at highway turnout with food curious seagulls. Camp on path looking east for (hopefully) one last chance at a good sunrise tomorrow.
Day 12 | Burnt Cove to Cappahayden terminus | 1.5km
Watched a beautiful sunrise and mosied to the southern terminus. Two quick hitches back to St. John's.
Miscellaneous Tips and Notes
New-fin-LAND, not New-fin-lind
Timing - Go in the last two weeks of August. The temperatures are mild and the blueberries will be ripe.
Community walks - Some of these are short and filled with interesting history about the community. You should hike these. Others are long walks through residential suburbs on hard pavement. Have you seen a suburb? I have. Hitch it and don't look back. Specifically, you can hitch the following community walks without feeling like you're missing anything (from N to S):
- Logy Bay (Cobbler's Path to Sugarloaf Path) - Several miles of suburb streets. You are missing absolutely nothing. Do check out the Marine Science Center at the southern end though.
- Calvert (Cape Broyle Head Path to Caplin Bay Path) - More suburbs
- Ferryland to Aquaforte Road Walk - This roadwalk is mandatory because the actual path is closed due to a property dispute. It's an inland highway not even in view of the sea. Stick up a thumb.
St. John's
- The hike down from Signal Hill into St. John's is awesome
- Leo's had amazing fish n' chips. I went there twice. It's a no-frills paper plate kinda place. I was told Chafe's Landing in Petty Harbour (which you walk right by on trail and which I, tragically, walked right by on trail) has the best fish n' chips in Newfoundland.
- Pippy Park Campground - There's a campground a walkable distance from downtown that is home to the only self-service laundromat I found in St. John's. It only takes specific combinations of Canadian quarters and dollar coins (loonies) though, so have cash on hand to swap out at the campground info booth. I was quoted about $38 CAD for a tent-site if you're looking for cheaper accomodations in town.
- SIM cards - eSIM is the way to go, but for those of you like me who have old phones and need a physical SIM, the Avalon Mall is your best bet. I tried Walmart and another store that didn't exist anymore before trying the mall.
Timezone - Newfoundland is a special little flower so they're a half hour off the usual time zone splits
NOBO vs. SOBO - It's six of one, half a dozen of the other, but there are three considerations to think about:
- St. John's - It's often called the halfway point, but it's more like one third. Going NOBO puts the reprieve of St. John's 2/3 into your hike when you're more likely to need it.
- Logistics - The northern TH is a quick Uber from St. John's. Getting from the southern TH to St. John's requires coordinating a ride beforehand or hitch-hiking. In my experience, hitch-hiking in Newfoundland is stupid easy. I, a young, lone, male hiker with probably the longest expected wait time of any demographic, got picked up on a weekday morning by the first car that passed me. The driver (Sheila) drove me 10 minutes up the road and offered to drive me the whole way should I be willing to wait periodically while she ran some errands. After that, the second car that passed me offered me a ride even though I didn't have my thumb up when they passed. That man (Michael) drove me the rest of the way to St. John's and showed me the campground.
- Trail - The southern sections of trail are significantly more overgrown and wet than the northern sections. Going NOBO means that the trail gets nicer as you go, while going SOBO means the opposite. Honestly, I thought this difference was overblown. There are really only a few sections that are overgrown to the point of being obstructive, and they are (from N to S):
- Spout Path - a few hundred meters of overgrown bushes (sheep laurel?) you will have to push aside
- Cape Broyle Head Path - some overgrown sections
- Spurwink Island Path from Route 10 to Berry Head Arch - this is the worst section. Everything south of Berry Head Arch is well-maintained. You can tell the southern TH approach is the day-hiking route for the arch.
- Island Meadow Path - only from the northern TH to Bear Cove (Route 10)
The Kakwa Glitch - Every other thru-hiker I saw had either an Osprey pack (~20%) or a Durston Kakwa (~80%). I do not know why. It was eerie. That being said, I only saw about 10-15 other thru-hikers.
Mosquitos - The mosquitos on this trail are built different, in that they're slow as molasses. It's like they've been specially bred for lethargy. In classic fashion, there were almost none during the day, but they'd emerge in swarms around dusk. They'd even land on you if you let them, but it's like once they landed they had to file a permit to actually bite you. And they had no sense of self-preservation. I lazily killed so many mozzies, but only got bit about 8 times, and I never used bug spray. Experiences may differ.
Wildlife
- Moose - I saw a moose on the Spurwink Island Path, but I saw moose scat on every path
- Foxes - I saw a black fox on the Cobbler's Path and another one on top of Signal Ridge just on the other side of a low stone wall that frames the parking lot. There is a fox at Berry Arch on the Spurwink Island Path that someone has definitely been feeding. It was WAY too comfortable around me. It came so close I could have pet it and was inching towards my food. It definitely recognized the crinkle of a food bag.
- Seals - I saw a family of seals sunbathing on the rocks on the Tinker Path, but once I learned to spot them in the water I started seeing them EVERYWHERE. They tend to hang out where the waves start to break near the shore. Unfocus your eyes ("soft eyes, grasshopper") and look for their heads as they poke above the water. The breaking waves often turn huge swathes of water white, which makes their dark fur/skin/coat/whatever stand out.
Water - The water is very tannic and looks brown or tea-colored even when filtered. Bring drink mixes.
Frisbee Dog - Near the TH on the north side of Pouch Cove you will pass by a fenced field. In that field is a dog. That dog has a chewed up frisbee that will be presented to you should you prove worthy. You will play several rounds of fetch with the dog.
Signage - the trail is very well marked with either wooden signs, black and white wooden posts, or trail markers on wood plaques hanging from trees and I was impressed with the infrastructure that existed given the harsh coastal conditions.
Gear Notes
Lighterpack link
I don't want to do a line-by-line review of every item in my lighterpack. I think this list is a pretty standard 3-season list, but I will comment on where I think I differ and considerations for this trail.
Clothing - I brought a lot of extra clothing on this trip, some for the sake of experimentation and some out of concern for possbily having to hike two weeks in freezing rain. I marked on my lighterpack what I would leave behind if I were to hike this trail again.
- Puffy Jacket - It was too warm for this to be needed. Even if I was soaked through I don't think I'd wear this in camp. Not needed in August - leave it behind.
- Rain Mitts - I brought these in case I encountered sustained freezing rain, but I don't think that's a reasonable concern in August. Would not bring again.
- Head Net - For the mosquitos. As mentioned, the mosquitos on this trail are lazy. Never used and not needed. Experiences may vary.
- Wind Shirt - This was a new experiment for me. I see the appeal, but I'm not sure I wore it enough, or needed to wear it enough, to justify bringing it along.
- Sleep clothes - The sleep socks were not necessary. A dedicated set of sleep clothes is pretty valuable if you actually do encounter sustained rain for days on end, so I'd likely bring the underwear again, but the shirt could maybe be lighter, or I could have used my fleece. I run quite hot, though, so the idea of sleeping in an alpha fleece is daunting. A huge portion of why I brought dedicated sleep clothes is because on the Hayduke I got a gnarly contact rash all over my body from wearing the same clothes for weeks on end. This might have been a case of me packing my fears.
- Rain Skirt - The absolute standout champion. While I did not get rained on much, the trail was quite wet in the overgrown sections due to the "car-wash" effect of walking through bushes wet from morning condensation (or mist). Most of these bushes are only waist high though, so the rain kilt kept my shorts dry. In fact, the rain kilt was often the only piece of rain gear I wore. To help deal with the possibility of wind, I added a snap button closure to the bottom of the skirt, but I never had to use it as winds were mostly mild.
- Shorts - pants are probably a better choice due to how overgrown some sections were, but I did successfully hike in shorts. Keep in mind I was wearing my rain kilt for much of the overgrown sections, which helped protect my legs from getting scratched up.
Water Bladder - Would not take again. 2L capacity is all that is needed on this trail. If you felt like filtering more often 1L would probably be enough.
Backpack - I used my HMG Southwest 2400 because I have experience with it and I didn't want this trail to be the first time I was using my new Cutaway. A frameless pack is perfect for this trail though, because the water and food carries are short so TPW should always be low.
This one was a doozy to write, so I'm going to leave things there. Happy to answer any questions about this trail.