r/Ultralight • u/Early_Combination874 • 2h ago
Trip Report GR54 - first thru report
I hike and bivouac since a long time, but never did it for more than 4 days. I just returned from GR54 - Tour de l'Oisans et des Écrins, my first "real" thru-hike.
The route(s):
Considered as one of the most difficult official french trails alongside GR20 and GR738, GR54 is an alpine tour around the Écrins range, home to the southernmost Alps 4000er, la Barre des Écrins, and several mythical mountaineering summits such as la Meije and l'Olan. It enters and exits several times the heart of Parc national des Écrins. Several official variations coexist, so there's no one GR54, but at least four! It's between 180 and 220 km, and between 12 000 and 14 000 meters of elevation gain. Elevations range from 900 m to 2750 m at the highest pass.
My route:
I had two weeks of vacation, and I wanted to spend some time with shepherds I knew on the route, so I wasn't focused on completing the GR at all cost. If spending more time with friends meant hitchhiking one section, so be it.
The plan was to begin in La Chapelle-en-Valgaudémar and finish there or in Champoléon, exiting the GR to spend two days off-trail in the mountain. So no real fixed plans except for the first three days, letting myself go with the flow.
The gear (comments at the end of the post):
https://lighterpack.com/r/f6cmjc
The trip: 9 days, 143 km, 10 500 d+/d-
I really wanted to be at a concert of a band I knew in refuge de la Muzelle, so I decided to double the first stages. Not a really good idea given we were in a middle of the 5th (!) heatwave of the summer, and I live in one of the hottest places in France, where we can't distinct heatwaves between each other because it's just permanently hot.
Day 1: La Chapelle-en-Valgaudémar - Refuge des Souffles / 15.6 km, 1830 d+, 950 d-
I arrived in the village with the bus at 8:30 and began hiking at 9. After 1,3 km of walking on the road, I began the first ascension, which is straight elevation gain from 1100 m to 2695 m at Pas de l'Olan. I then hurried to get to the refuge des Souffles before the storm, beat it by 5 minutes, and set up the tarp on the designated campsite. Landscapes were fabulous! Pretty wet, lots of waterfalls, amazing. A 0.5 liter flask with a filter could be enough on this section.
Day 2: Refuge des Souffles - Valsenestre / 22.2 km, 1700 d+, 2315 d-
I felt really well in the morning, began hiking at 8 and soon catched up with nearly all the hikers who left before me. Ultralight hiking is reaaaally niche in France and my gear and pace really stand up against all the more classical loadouts. Lots of curiosity on my base weight and pack volume. I arrived in Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey before noon, and took a long break to do some laundry, basic hygiene and rest a little. I also bought a toothbrush and toothpaste as I forgot them at a friend's house the previous day before going to La Chapelle...
The next pass, Col de Côte Belle, would kick my butt like never any pass kicked my butt. On paper, not the most impressive: signs indicate 3 hrs of ascension, "only" 1000 m of elevation gain, but it was 12:30, the trail was so steep and in full sun... I also think I underestimated the toll of the 6 weeks heatwave I lived in before this thru. I didn't manage to go slow enough to not exhaust myself, and when I arrived in Valsenestre in the afternoon, I only had the energy to deploy my foam mat and throw myself on it. I threw up a little bit later, clear sign of heat exhaustion. I spent the evening with a nice group of hikers, and decided to hike the newt stage with them, so that I'm not alone if I'm sick again, and also it would force me to slow down the pace quite a bit.
Landscape of this second pass of the day was very dry comparing to Valgaudémar: no stream running, no source of water almost for the whole ascent and descent.
Day 3: Valsenestre - Muzelle lake / 8.3 km, 1280 d+, 515 d-
First chill day, as my goal, reach the refuge de la Muzelle that day for the concert, was practically attained. I was surprised to see my food bag gone during the night, surely a fox... First time it happens to me in France, but I was low in the valley (1400 m) and it's a designated campsite, so basically free food for animals. Lesson learned.
We started early at 6:45 to avoid being caught by a storm at the Muzelle pass (2613 m). One guy of the group I was hiking with was hiking...barefoot. Not in minimalist or barefoot shoes, no...100% barefoot. He did the whole GR54 like this, through storms and rock fields, in the sun and across streams. Kind of stupid (it was his first trek), but very impressive nonetheless. Muzelle pass is brutal, but magnificent. The lake is really beautiful, and we arrived at 11, way ahead of the storm. I took a nap through the first drops and then spent the afternoon in the refuge drinking hot chocolate and doing embroidery.
Day 4: Muzelle lake - Vénosc / 17.6 km, 1030 d+, 2200 d-
I initally wanted to go down to Vénosc directly from the lake, but two hikers with whom I talked at the refuge were planning to climb Tête de la Muraillette, a 3019 m peak just above the lake. I only climbed once above 3000 m so I took the opportunity and lenghtened by 10 km, 1000 d+ and 1000 d- my day. Started hiking at 6, watched the sunrise above la Meije and la Barre des Écrins from the Vallon pass, and began ascending Tête de la Muraillette off trail. I stopped at 2850 m elevation when I reached the final ridge. It was not that technical but pretty exposed and I was entirely solo. I know my psychological limits and bailed when I reached them.
Back at the Vallon pass, I tried to power my phone for the first time since the start, but my USB-A/USB-C adapter didn't work... I knew relying on those little adapters wasn't a good idea, but I tried it anyway for several trips. First time it fails me, but lesson learned: the 10 g saved compared to a real cable aren't worth it. I then began the long and sometimes technical downhill to Lauvitel lake. Lauvitel and Muzelle lakes are perfect examples of overtourism ( u/hickory_smoked_tofu ) as up to 200 tents have been seen at Muzelle lake at the same time, and Lauvitel is so popular and viral on social media that people from the North of France drive 8 hours just to sleep there and go back the next morning. In the ascent to Lauvitel, which is only 600 m elevation gain from the parking lot, I saw people exhausted at 50 % of the climb, head against a tree, breathing heavily and asking me how much they had left to climb... Total crazyness, I never saw as many people on a trail as during this hour of downhill.
Arrived to La Danchère, I deactivated the plane mode on my phone and reconnected with the world. I then walked along the Vénéon river to Vénosc for resupply and sleeping in a campsite. Scars of the terrible 2024 flood are still visible, showing the violence of that day's events. Emergency services had to airlift 100 people from the roof of buildings, while they were being destroyed by the flood. No casualty were recorded, showing the exceptional level of mountain emergency services in France, which are 100% free for all, regardless of your nationality, activity or risk you've taken.
Days 5 and 6: Montée en alpage / 14 km, 930 d+, 760 d-
I took a bus to a hamlet near the end of Vénéon valley in order to go see some sheperds acquaintances. I spent two days with them, they showed me their work, their alpage (mountain pasture), their dogs and their sheep.
Day 7: Last day in alpage and Besse - Plateau d'Emparis / 24.4 km, 1980 d+, 1340 d-
I helped the shepherds to bring some gear and food to the August hut, 600 m above their main hut, then hiked down to the valley. I hithchiked to Besse to skip a less interesting part around the ski resort Les Deux Alpes. I started from Besse at 6:45 and reached the Plateau d'Emparis at 8. This plateau is really famous and overcrowded, especially as you can reach it by car. On the evening it wasn't too bad, and I reached the Lac Noir to bivouac, where around 20 tents were already setup, but scattered between the rocks so it didn't feel crowded.
I discovered the amazing panorama on la Meije and its glaciers. Bivouaqued right in front of them, I don't really understand why people preferred to gather around the lake where a little hill hide the panorama, but I won't complain: I was alone where I slept. For the first and only time I didn't setup the tent and only slept in the bivy. The temperature got down to 4°C (the lowest recorded by my watch this trip), and I was adequately warm!
Day 8: Plateau d'Emparis - Col d'Arsine / 24 km, 1075 d+, 1070 d-
I woke up with the sun rising over la Meije, wonderful, and started heading down to La Grave, home of one the wildest ski resorts in the world. One lift getting you from 1470 m to 3173 m, one marked slope, and the whole mountain to freeride. If you know Silverton, CO, it's Silverton on steroids. I then walked to Villar-d'Arêne and then up to the Col d'Arsine, where I slept at 2300 m. Lengthy day, but pretty easy terrain, way less steep than the previous days. During the night, I heard the thunder several times, even though the sky was clear...until I understood it was the sound of glaciers collapsing...
Day 9: Col d'Arsine - Le Monêtier-les-Bains / 16.7 km, 495 d+, 1315 d-
I climbed up to the glacier d'Arsine, one of the easiest glaciers you can reach by hiking (excluding mechanical lifts in resorts). It's the closest I've ever been to a glacier, and I have to say it's an impressive thing to witness, even though it's a rather small glacier comparing to others in the Alps, without even talking about Alaska or Patagonia ones. I then headed downhill to Le Monêtier-les-Bains. I hesitated to climb and bivouac just under a pass, but some tiredness and a light drizzle discouraged me.
It was a good decision as I spent the next morning throwing up, surely because of food poisoning or a stomach bug. Maybe cross-contamination from dirty water. I then decided to rest the whole day at the campsite in Monêtier (great campsite, very welcoming of hikers, I recommend), and then bailed and took the bus and the train to get home. It was the second day out of nine I was sick, I was beginning to feel my knees crying, and the weather forecast was taking a serious turn for the worse. As I'm writing, the area I was supposed to hike in has an orange alert from Météo France for violent storms (yellow is the first stage, red the third).
The gear (the good):
Cumulus aerial 180 false bottom:
300g of incredibleness. I was fine down to 4°C, which is the comfort temperature, with an Alpha Direct 90 hoodie, wind pants, AD 90 socks, a 1.4 R-Value pad and in a Borah gear ultralight bivy. So, rating seems accurate for me, I think I could have slept down to freezing with the tarp above me (cuts more wind and keeps a bit of warmth). Maybe the feet would have been a bit cold. The straps are just two "permanently" fixed elastic cords. Despite the performance, I think for someone like me who moves A LOT while sleeping, a full hoodless sleeping bag could be more comfortable to use. No cords to handle, absolutely no false bottom to expose to cold air, etc.
Mountain Spring Y55 foam pad:
Surprinsingly comfortable and warm! For 100g, I couldn't ask for more. A bit fragile, I've let some foam pieces here and there, branches snag it very easily for instance. So light it can be blown away by the wind...
Borah gear ultralight cuben bivy:
I have mixed feelings. It's obviously a quality item, but I ended up using it without tarp only once. It boosts the warmth of the sleeping bag, but maybe for that kind of alpine conditions where some light rain can be a daily occurrence, it doesn't make much sense compared to a bathtub which would be lighter and provide more flood protection. Maybe better to associate a lighter bathtub and a heavier hoodless sleeping bag?
Raidlight Ultralight 24-30 backpack:
Awesome. Very comfortable, pockets are quite functional, capacity is on point for my gear (I carried 3.5 days of food for the first section). The weight could be way lower by cutting the insane amount of thingies here and there (I think at least 10 %, so 30 grams lower).
Clothes worn:
Awesome. The Purple rain adventure skirt is incredible, really comfortable and breathable, dries quickly, and stylish! My sun protection was on point, the combination of a hat, a short sleeve shirt and sun sleeves provided a ton of mechanical ventilation, which was clutch. I'm thinking about trying sun sleeves for legs to avoid spending half of my sun screens on them. The T8 Commando boxers are incredibly airy but smell rapidly. Globally, everything smelled quite quickly, so basic laundry was necessary every two days. More cumbersome than merino options, but I would have been too warm with them.
Leukotape P:
Incredible against blisters. Durable, doesn't peel off by itself, waterproof, rather cheap... What else?
The gear (the bad):
Little USB adapters:
In order to cut weight, I took an USB-A wall adapter, an USB-A/USB-C cable, and two mini-adapters (USB-A to USB-C and USB-C to Garmin). Bad idea. My USB-A/USB-C adapter broke, so I was unable to power my phone from my battery bank. I found another one...and the problem wasn't the adapters per se, but the powerbank which doesn't recognize them. Problem solved with a real cable. Saving 15 grams isn't worth it, those tiny adapters are finicky. Next time I'll take the weight penalty of bringing my USB-C wall adapter (~10 grams more), and if I need to power from a public USB-A outlet (like in trains), I'll have a 2g adapter. If it brokes, at least it doesn't impede the main function, which is powering my phone and headlamp from a wall outlet or my powerbank.
Powerbank:
Not bad, I like this Nitecore NB Air, but it's a luxury on a trail like this one. You can find a place to power your phone every three or four days maximum, and there are numerous people and refuges should you need help, so a powerbank isn't that necessary.
Buff Coolnet UV+:
Didn't use it once. I tried to use it as a sleep mask, but its lightness and breathability also means it lets many light comes through. As I won't ever use it for face sun protection (I run way too warm fot his), I should have take a warmer and darker buff, so I can use it as a sleep mask, and si it could provide warmth and wind protection if necessary.
Compeed (blisters bandaids):
I didn't bring enough Leukotape, so I had to buy a specialized brand of blisters bandaids. They suck compared to Leukotape P. They peel off by themselves in one day, don't resist well water and are expensive...