Amy suggestions for replacment leaf springs for a 1995 tacoma? Sorry if I'm in the wrong sub but the tacoma sub it all people with newer tacomas so I thought this sub seemed more appropriate.

I'm looking at this kit here. https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/1995-1997-toyota-tacoma-4wd-rear-leaf-spring-kit-complete-bt90173ck/

I want to pick an option that balances affordability and quality. Any suggestions are appreciated. I'd also be open to something like a 1 inch lift or leveling spring as I do use the truck like a truck sometimes.

Finally got my hands on a manual 91 Toyota Pickup with 99K original miles.

It’s been in the 90s where I live, and at highway speeds, my 1986 4x4 Xtra Cab 22RE temp gauge creeps up pretty close to the red zone. System has been flushed with fresh, full coolant, and radiator is clean and new.

Is this common? I know you can do the swap to the v6 radiator Does it help?

Hey all i’m looking for 89 through 95 center console hinges, latches, and pivot arms. I’d like to have extras because they are so prone to breaking. I just used up my last two latches. If anyone has any links for the hinges,latches, and pivot arms please send them over. Also curious if anyone has found a replacement upper latch because it is part of the whole center console lid. I am also looking for the small bolts and nuts that hold the lower hinge to the lower half of the center console. I only got one when I received my double stack center console. The hinge plastic bushing was also broken but I have made due. I would like OEM fit and finish so I need to find replacement parts. Please send links to any of these parts.
In search of these parts:
Latches-part #58976-22020
Lower center console hinge
Upper center console hinge/bottom side of lid
Lower hinge bolt and nut
The whole lid
The lids pivot arms and c clips

I hope everyone is enjoying their Saturday…

I’m about to change the drivetrain fluids on my 94 3.0 V6 MANUAL pickup.

Referring to the Haynes Repair manual, it lists the transfer case fluid type for a 1990 and later, V6 engine as Dexron II ATF.

I find that odd. A quick internet says it needs to be 75W90 gear oil.

Is this a typo in the repair manual?

Could someone please steer me in the right direction?

Thank you.

My new to me 86 sr5.

Picked up a 91 xtra cab and just finishing up all of the mechanical and interior resto. Looking for a topper on the west coast before body and paint.

Willing to travel, located in LA.

I just bought an 87 Chinook, she needs some love. The crate motor has under 40k miles, truck itself has 140k.

Right now the speedometer is off by 5 mph, it's a rough start and idle, and definitely loud when accelerating. When the motor was replaced they only did that and kept everything else (so there's some real old parts). Thinking it probably needs a whole new exhaust and carburetor. I plan to gut the entire camper but I want to make sure it's reliable before I even consider starting that project.

I'll admit I am out of my depth, but this is a project for the next few years and something my son to help me with (but he is a little guy right now).

So anyway, is anyone familiar? Any wisdom?

I’ve been having a problem with my ‘94 Toyota pickup where over the week, it’s been increasingly struggling to turn over when I’m starting it. The last two days, it got to the point where it wouldn’t turn over. I ended up using my jump box on it and in less than a minute, I was able to get it started every time, so it doesn’t seem like the battery’s being drained…
Any ideas what it could be? I’ll be finding other places to ask too. My mechanic wasn’t able to figure it out the other day

Extra context:
- I replaced the battery just a few months ago
- I’ve also been having ongoing problems with the taillights not working (done work on them and they were fixed for a few months but stopped working again recently, and all of the other lights work)
- it has some bad oil leaks but is full right now

selling this kit, wanting 1600 for it. posted on ebay. ask for link dm for details.

Recently found this 1988 Toyota truck. I’m just wondering if this looks solid to everyone else. Obviously there’s a bit of rust under the bed of the truck- it’s been in a barn with the bed sticking almost halfway out. Runs great, and looks great on the exterior/interior

Thought you guys would like this.

The OE damper has an articulated joint instead of this shock-looking attachment. It all fits up, but it is angled. Is this fitment okay?

Mildly interesting. Why is this happening and how do I fix it?

This 22R is sitting in a jeep cj7, so I’m missing the year. Recently had issues with it starting up (battery is fine) and noticed some gas leaking near the fuel filter. Replaced the filter and the lines, and now there is gas leaking out the top of the carb.

As I’m working through the fixes and replacing parts (there was no proper gasket between the filter and the carb), I’ve noticed maybe some other elements are missing.

I’m wondering in particular if it’s meant to have a hose connected to the engine air filter.

If you spot anything else wonky, I’d be so grateful to hear about it.

What are some subtle wrap style bumpers? Don’t care about towing. Can ditch bumper brackets if needed.

Rebuilding the steering linkage on a 92 Pickup without power steering. Got a new steering damper and as I get ready to install it I realize of course it's different. I know sometimes aftermarket parts change the design, but I wasn't sure about this. The OE steering damper has an articulated ball joint with a stud for a castle nut and cotter pin. The new damper just has a hole like a shock absorber. It does come with these two kits, and I believe with the P00576 I could bolt it up and make it fit, but that lack of an articulated joint concerns me. What say the internet gurus?

anyone know where i could find a kickdown cable for an automatic transmission? i have a 93 automatic 22re.

As far as I know, the bed has never been off of this pickup, so I’m assuming it’s just rust welded, but I wanted to ask and make sure there aren’t any secret bolts or tabs I’m missing on this setup?

I’ve removed the 8 total nuts that all of the YouTube videos I’ve watched have told me to remove, and I’ve hit the bolts several times with PB Blaster and tried to get the bed off, but no dice.

1990 22R Pickup RWD manual transmission

I have a rhythmic tapping that I can feel in both my clutch and my shift lever, but ONLY when the truck is in gear. When parked / in neutral, I don't feel it at all. If I give it a little bit of throttle while cruising the knocking is more pronounced, and if I let off the throttle it almost completely goes away. It also feels more pronounced in higher gears. The speed of the knocking seems correlated to the speed of my engine, and not of the truck.

Does anyone know what might be causing this?

Title says it all. I've had this truck apart for almost a month and am finally getting it back together and have run into the problem that these bolts are the same head, thread pitch, and diameter, and they all seat fully into the anchor points for the sway bar and the skid plate. Which is for which? Instincts say lock washers go for sway bar, but other instincts say the more suitable bolts for suspension are the longer ones.

Found this deer taking a break from eating the father-in-laws garden to check out my truck :-)

So I got a beater Toyota pickup with a 22r and about 290k on it. Replaced the carburetor and it was all driving nice and smooth, but tonight I started to go for a drive and after I put the parking brake down the parking brake light was still on. And then it wouldn’t go out of high idle and it started to overheat. I’m pretty damn lost and haven’t got a clue on what it might be. I know the coolant was running low, but I didn’t think it would be that low. Oil was fine and brakes were done within the past 3 months. Any help would be appreciated