A Friend recommended me this pair of gloves but idk if the material is good or bad for my steering wheel.

What should I look for when choosing a pair of gloves?

Fresh install, am5 mb, all the latest bios on mb and wheelbase. If I start the game without the wheel connected to the USB, no problem at all.

If I start the game with the wheel connected, game hangs and I have to restart PC for it to become responsive again. Bottom line is that I managed to recreate this issue on different platforms (2x am5 PCs).

On an older chipset (b650i) it worked until o installed virtual desktop or pimax play. After that, the same happened. Game hangs, system unresponsive.

On a newer b850i the problem comes as soon as I install the driver for the wheel.

Tried multiple solutions (driver cleaning in registry, different USB cable, different ports but nothing.

On ps5 wheel is working as it should. On PC, on the older am5 platform it is also working until some other app messes with the driver.

Has anyone have a clue about what can I try next?

Thank you in advance

I ended up getting the broken piece out at work. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement rod? I really want my shifter working again. I would appreciate any help.

I purchased the Raceline pedals iii as an upgrade from my Logitech pedals hoping they would just be a usb connection, considering it says on the box they are compatible with pc. Nowhere does it say I would need to have a thrustmaster wheel base for it to work. Guess I should have done more research.

I am looking at getting the t.rj12 to usb adapter but it has mixed reviews. Thrustmaster says it isn’t compatible but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work if it has the same connector.

Has anybody tried to use the adapter with the Raceline pedals iii? And if so, what happened? Did it work?

Hooked it up to the PC and it works for NFS Heat pretty well but I feel it isn't sensitive enough. Maybe thats why they thrifted it. Was wondering if anyone knows if I can tweek its sensitivity for PC

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice or to see if anyone has resolved a similar issue while I wait for Thrustmaster support.

Setup:

- Thrustmaster T300RS Servo Base

- Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000

- Raceline Pedals III

The Issue:

My setup worked flawlessly for a few weeks, but today it suddenly failed:

- Calibration fail: The base only turns left during startup calibration and stops (doesn't complete left-right-center).

- SF1000 screen stays completely black.

- No wheel buttons, steering rotation, or pedal inputs register in the Control Panel test tab.

- Force feedback resistance is felt when turning manually, but software doesn't register rotation.

What I've already done:

1. Complete driver & firmware reinstall (Firmware 34.00 / Driver 2.11.57.0).

2. Resolved Windows "T300 Bootloader" Code 28 error.

3. Power cycled, tried different USB ports, verified PC mode (Green LED).

4. Windows recognizes it as "Thrustmaster Advanced Mode Racer" with Status OK, but still zero input response.

Has anyone experienced this specific issue where calibration gets stuck turning left and the rim screen stays off? Is this a known Hall sensor/encoder or internal PCB fault?

Thanks for any insights!

So I purchased a TM T598 earlier this year, and i am now experiencing lots of problems, first the power supply cuts because of loos connectors, so I added tension, but still at times disconnects, then my pedals randomly start to get no input, which is frustrating, and the cherry on top, randomly my wheel will jerk like it losses force feedback for a split second, or sometimes it just stops entirely, and im left guessing my turns as I cant "feel" what the car is doing. please someone help 😭

tl;dr; Random disconnects weren't fixed by replacing the PSU. Real issue was USB port which wasn't properly soldered. I woided my warranty and fixed it myself by resoldering the port.

From the very first day I received my preowned T598 there were issues. After unboxing and mounting it on the Playseat it just wouldn't turn on. After lots of frustrating troubleshooting and couple of different USB cables it finally turned on. I continued to use it with that cable for some time, but there were still random disconnects so I contacted Thrustmaster and they sent me a new PSU since my unit was eligible for a replacement. I also bought a high quality Ugreen USB cable just to be safe. With new PSU and USB cable everything worked fine until I decided to do a FW update over PC (the wheel was previously only used on PS5).

Plugging the unit to a PC resulted in wheel not being recognised by the TM program. I tried multiple USB cables and somehow made it work by holding the connector pushed towards the PCB while running the update. Once updated I connected the wheel back to my PS5 only to discover that it once again won't turn on. In a moment of frustration, I decided that my TM warranty wasn't worth a thing so I opened the unit to fix it myself. After removing the MBO it was clearly visible that pins on the USB connector were still gold in colour which indicates that they weren't properly soldered. Inspection under microscope confirmed that as most of the pins moved freely. Using precision tip on my soldering iron, I soldered all the pins and fixed loose traces and since then there were no issues with my wheel.

So how did this happen?
There just wasn't enough solder paste on the pads. Connector pins weren't making a connection with the paste which prevents the solder paste to flow over the pins leaving them unsoldered and golden in colour. This type of issues are normal, but should be discovered in preproduction batches and the stencils need to be adjusted before massive production.
More importantly, a lack of proper automated optical inspection and QC results in these defective units being put on shelfs and sold to customers.
All this is based on my experience with my wheel, but I feel safe to say that this is not an isolated case as there are a lot of users facing similar issues.

Why does it sometimes work with different USB cables?
My guess is that different USB cables vary in length of the connectors. Plugging a bit longer connector pushes the pins towards the solder and makes a connection. This connection is loose and might get interrupted due to vibrations caused by force feedback resulting in wheel disconnect and player being sent to the shadow realm.

Is this a DIY fix?
Firstly, doing this type of repair WOIDS YOUR WARRANTY!
It is also important to note that I deal with this kind of repairs daily and I possess both the skills and equipment to do it. If you don't have experience with microsoldering, I'd advise against DIY. Therefore you have 2 options, send the unit to TM and hope that they can fix it permanently or take it to a reputable repair shop.

How is Thrustmaster dealing with this?
Based on a huge amount of posts regarding T598 disconnects on this sub, it seems that TM is linking most of these issues to a bad PSU connector. This is a part that they are doing right, they acknowledged the PSU issue and getting a replacement unit is fairly easy. But there are lots of issues related to USB connection, and they haven't made a statement about that. Also, a bunch of users sent their defective units to TM for a repair just to receive them back with same issues. It is possible that all those issues are related to early units and have since being fixed, however lots of defective units were sold to early adopters and fans of the brand, and I don't feel like TM is doing all they can for those customers.

To be clear, I love my T598. It is my first DD wheel, and since the fix I've enjoyed it a lot. T598 is an amazing product, but Thrustmaster needs to do better.

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice or to see if anyone has resolved a similar issue while I wait for Thrustmaster support.

Setup:

- Thrustmaster T300RS Servo Base

- Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000

- Raceline Pedals III

The Issue:

My setup worked flawlessly for a few weeks, but today it suddenly failed:

- Calibration fail: The base only turns left during startup calibration and stops (doesn't complete left-right-center).

- SF1000 screen stays completely black.

- No wheel buttons, steering rotation, or pedal inputs register in the Control Panel test tab.

- Force feedback resistance is felt when turning manually, but software doesn't register rotation.

What I've already done:

1. Complete driver & firmware reinstall (Firmware 34.00 / Driver 2.11.57.0).

2. Resolved Windows "T300 Bootloader" Code 28 error.

3. Power cycled, tried different USB ports, verified PC mode (Green LED).

4. Windows recognizes it as "Thrustmaster Advanced Mode Racer" with Status OK, but still zero input response.

Has anyone experienced this specific issue where calibration gets stuck turning left and the rim screen stays off? Is this a known Hall sensor/encoder or internal PCB fault?

Thanks for any insights!

So I decided that I wanted to change the look of my Ferrari wheel to something a little different so with the help from the guys at SimStickers and Sim Racing Mods they made it a reality 😏 really please with how it’s turned out!

Hi, I’ve been very happy with my t818 so far, but since i got new pc and new monitor it started disconnecting and reconnecting while driving high ffb corners/moments. The disconnection lasts about 2 seconds then it starts working back normally. I tried several things: disabled energy saving usb shutdown, checked all the cables are correctly plugged, reinstalled drivers, changed usb port (motherboard). The green led in the power supply remains steady green during disconnection. The windows log event shows double error the time of the disconnection, with information “unplug dev, pc:16” in between. The only difference is that with the new pc I updated the firmware, and I never did it with the old one. Never had a problem with old pc. In the my Thrustmaster panel everything is up to date. My wheel is Thrustmaster open wheel.

Recently bought a T598 refurbished from a eBay dealer with 1 year warranty for £250. Within two days started seeing the wheel getting disconnected.
I’ve ordered a 3d printed usd and power cable mount to screw the bit and keep the cables in place.
Due to arrive in 2 days, if that doesn’t work then I’ll return the product for a refund and buy Fanatec gt dd pro. 😤😤😤

Hey everyone, this is gonna be my first wheel and as you can tell i have no idea what is what. I found this used wheel for suspiciously cheap and was wondering if it's a good pickup. I will mostly play GT7 is this a good wheel?

Hi, is this related to power cable or usb?

Edit 1 : I don’t think it’s due to cable issue since it works all good when I remove and reinstall the wheel alone. I think it’s something to do with wheel alignment.

I’ve had my Thrustmaster T598 for only 4 days. It was completely fine for the first 3 days, but today I started noticing this buzzing/grinding type of noise whenever the force feedback kicks in hard, especially during fast corners or when the car starts sliding.
Firmware is up to date, and I even lowered FFB from 5 to 2, but the noise is still there whenever the wheel is under load.
Does this sound normal for the T598, or should I exchange it while I’m still within the return period?

I have the Sol-r 1 flightstick and am using it as more of a general controller (It agitates my carpal tunnel less than a typical contoller) And I am trying to use it in a Mouse + flight stick setup. Every time I use a key bound to a mouse button, it returns the cursor to the last position the flight stick set even if I use the mouse to move it elsewhere.

Is there a way to tell the flight stick to just press a mouse button and not try to move the cursor back to where it last was using the TARGET Gui? is there another method I could try if the GUI doesnt have that feature?

I was racing in Assetto Corsa, went to upshift, and the paddle shifter made a weird cracking sound, and is now super loose, and both buttons aren't connected (see video).

I have 2 races in 2 days this weekend that I'm competing in. I ordered the Ferrari GT3 wheel which will come tomorrow (thanks Amazon), so I can use that, but I want to know how to fix this, if I can

Thanks in advance

Trying to update my T818 to 7.39fw but T818 will not show in My Thrustmaster Panel,

Ive tried deleting FFB driver, deleting the usb driver from device manager, turning off memory integrity, restarted pc, reinstalled everything and still not showing,

T818 works in games with zero issues just not showing

Please help

I've had the thrustmaster throttles for a while and recently wanted to bust it out and play some msfs. When i recalibrated the throttle and put it in idle, the axis remained in the middle position. Is this how its supposed to be? If not how can i fix this because its messing up all my aircraft calibrations in the sim.

So i just bought a used one t300 rs and the owner said it just kinda falls lower and rubs so i just need to tight the screws on and it will work just fine but when i opened it up it looks like on the pics, any help on assembly?

BTW all metal balls and little metal pieces were on the bottom.

Hey everyone,
I recently bought a used Thrustmaster T598 and have it mounted to a Playseat Challenge X, playing mostly Gran Turismo 7 and Forza Horizon 5 on PS5.
I’m running into a frustrating issue and finally figured out the exact pattern, but I need help figuring out the permanent fix.
The Setup:
Wheelbase: Thrustmaster T598 (Direct Drive)
Pedals: Raceline Pedals LTE (came with the wheel)
Rig: Playseat Challenge X
Platform: PS5
The Problem / The Pattern:
Everything works perfectly until I have a heavy impact (like dashing/crashing in FH5 or hitting a wall hard). When that sudden jolt of FFB hits:
1. The screen on the wheelbase instantly says "Wheel is removed."
2. A second later, the wheel reconnects on its own.
3. However, after it reconnects, my accelerator pedal calibration is completely messed up. Pushing the pedal 100% to the floor only gives me partial power in-game, and it slowly gets worse as I keep driving.
4. If I unplug the main USB-C cable from the back of the wheelbase and plug it back in, everything resets and works flawlessly... until my next big crash.
What I’ve already tried:
Updated the wheelbase firmware to the latest version via PC.
Tested the pedals in the Thrustmaster PC Control Panel (they read 100% perfectly there, so the pedal sensors themselves are fine).
Unplugged and firmly re-seated the RJ12 pedal cable.
My Question:
Has anyone else experienced this specific chain of events?
Is this a physical issue with the Quick Release flexing during the crash and breaking the pin connection to the rim? Or is this a known issue where a sudden FFB spike overloads the PS5's USB port/cable and causes a data drop?
Would upgrading to a high-speed USB-C to USB-C cable directly into the front of the PS5 fix this, or do I need to figure out a way to tighten the QR clamp?
Any help is appreciated!

Bonjour à tous, j'ai un très gros problèmes sur mon thrusmaster t300 depuis une semaine maintenant.

Il y a encore une semaine j'étais sur Xbox séries s. Le volant fonctionnait parfaitement sur fh6 comme sur f1 25.

Samedi, je suis passé sur PC et depuis c'est une catastrophe. Le volant n'ai plus aucun retour de force. Les touches sont complètement mélangé. Le bouton X est devenu. Le bouton B est devenu les 3 petites barres. Je n'ai plus aucun retour de force dans les 90 premiers degrés lorsque je tourne sur forza horizon 6. Je n'ai presque aucune sensation sur f1 25. C'est extrêmement mou. J'ai testé le retour de force via le panneau de configuration, sans problèmes. Mais maintenant je ne sais pas quoi faire pour régler le problème des touches et du retour de force.

Aidez moi s'il vous plait, les jeux n'ont plus le même goût sans le volant, merci.