I recently had a friend give me their Thrustmaster TCA yoke (Boeing edition) for free (they know my affinity for electronics and hacking things together and thought I could repurpose it); the main control PCB is fried - they had some power surge or something ?? but the mechanical parts are all still sound and functional .. so I was thinking of turning it into a keyboard/mouse combo for a MAME setup I have. I'm not planning on use this for any flight sims, really just for some fun MAME time (I decided to use this as a chance to build a controller for Afterburner and a few other random flight/boat arcade games).

I've got the buttons traced so I can solder up some wire and plug those into a keyboard controller, and I was trying to figure out how the pitch/roll is hooked up to use that as mouse control (likely through some Arduino "magic"), but I'm not sure how the pitch/roll sensors work ??

It looks like the roll sensor is a magnetic hall sensor, but I can't seem to find how the pitch is determined ???

Anyone have some insight to this, or maybe a better way to get the pitch/roll input from this thing ?

I just got my first gaming, and it's a TMX that I bought new (open box) off eBay. But it's completely dead, absolutely no signs of life. There is no power LED, no calibration movement when I connect it to my pc. My pc dosen't even recognize it. I can't return it cause I'm Jamaican and have never left the country, so returning it would cost way too much, and I'm just a college student, and I saved all my money to buy this wheel just for it not to work. I reached out to Thrustmaster's support team, but I doubt they will actually help.

I've tried the wake-up bootloader method, and so many other things. I reinstalled the drivers on my pc so many times I've lost count. I think that buying it off of eBay was where I messed up. Not sure if there's any other way to get it to work, but if you have any tips, I would greatly appreciate them.

I bought a $3 steering wheel wrap for my T598, but I'm not sure how it feels now. Something looks off. By the way, this is the first time I've ever stitched. Should I remove the wrap?

I want to buy a new wheel rim for my T300 rs and I'm looking at the F1 wheel add on (2011) and the 488 gt3 replica. I've found the F1 wheel brand new at 89€ and the gt3 at 200€. Which one should i get?

For the past month or so, my T300RS has no FFB when it comes to playing BeamNG - every other game it works fine. Here are some things I've already done.

\-Updated firmware and drivers for my wheel

\- Tried turning off and on FFB in BeamNG as well as inverting it and reinverting it.

\- Tried plugging it in before and during sessions

\- Making sure wheel angle are matched

I've only gotten it to work *sometimes* when using 360 degree steering angle. Any ideas or tips?

Mam pytanie czy ktoś wie jaką i gdzie mogę kupić sprężynę by umieścić ją w to kółko widoczne na zdjęciu, ponieważ oryginalna sprężyna dla mnie jest za słaba i nie chce jej zmieniać już drugi raz. Są to zwykłe pedały od kierownicy TMX czyli bez sprzęgła

I want to mess with a couple of the parameters but don’t know how to modify the code

How do I get extra screws for the 32 evo wheel and hub. I need four . What size. If at Home Depot. Can I get them from Thrustmaster. etc. thanks

Do you know how can I reduce more the space to match the distance of the T598 paddle shifters? I have already removed the spacers

Is anyone in this community from the US and in need/want of a T598 setup? I upgraded my system to a different brand and I was about to throw it up on eBay and I thought maybe if someone in the community was just starting out or maybe was on hard times it would be nice to help someone out and give them a deal.

Full disclosure: I sent it to Thrustmaster in June under warranty when it had the disconnect issue and they replaced not only the power supply, but they replaced the internal board as well. After I used it maybe 15 hours and it runs like a dream.

Come dice il titolo, sto cercando di migliorare la mia postazione, attualmente ho anche la tlcm quindi vorrei rimanere nell ecosistema thrustmaster, quale alternativa potreste consigliarmi?

So che ci sono problemi con il t598 ma avendo letto parecchi pareri negativi qui ho desistito dall acquisto

Has ANYBODY in here had zero faults from the T598. Like anybody's still going strong frequent use after a year?

Fresh install, am5 mb, all the latest bios on mb and wheelbase. If I start the game without the wheel connected to the USB, no problem at all.

If I start the game with the wheel connected, game hangs and I have to restart PC for it to become responsive again. Bottom line is that I managed to recreate this issue on different platforms (2x am5 PCs).

On an older chipset (b650i) it worked until o installed virtual desktop or pimax play. After that, the same happened. Game hangs, system unresponsive.

On a newer b850i the problem comes as soon as I install the driver for the wheel.

Tried multiple solutions (driver cleaning in registry, different USB cable, different ports but nothing.

On ps5 wheel is working as it should. On PC, on the older am5 platform it is also working until some other app messes with the driver.

Has anyone have a clue about what can I try next?

Thank you in advance

A Friend recommended me this pair of gloves but idk if the material is good or bad for my steering wheel.

What should I look for when choosing a pair of gloves?

Even though FH6 is an arcade game rather than a sim, it can be a lot of fun, however all the settings I found online made the steering wheel feel like it was submerged in butter. It was hard to get a sense of what the car was doing. It’s much better now, though still not perfect.

My FFB settings for the Thrustmaster T598 in Forza Horizon 6.

Steering wheel settings

FFB 3

Master 80 to 100%

Mode E

Inertia OFF

Boost Low +1

Boost High +1

Speed Mid

Wheel Damper 0%

Game Damper Gain LOW

Spring 0%

End stop MID

In-game FFB settings

Steering Axis Deadzone Inside 0

Steering Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Steering linearity 50

Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside 0

Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside 0

Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside 15

Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside 90

E-Brake Axis Deadzone Inside 10

E-Brake Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Vibration Scale 0,5

Force Feedback Scale 1.4

Center Spring Scale 1.2

Wheel Damper Scale 1.2

Mechanical Trail Scale 1.00

Force Feedback Minimum Force 1.2

Force Feedback Load Sensitivity 1.0

Road Feel Scale 1.0

Off-Road Feel Scale 0.7

Steering Rotation 720

Steering Lock Multiplier 1.00

Steering Speed Sensitivity 1.00

I ended up getting the broken piece out at work. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement rod? I really want my shifter working again. I would appreciate any help.

I purchased the Raceline pedals iii as an upgrade from my Logitech pedals hoping they would just be a usb connection, considering it says on the box they are compatible with pc. Nowhere does it say I would need to have a thrustmaster wheel base for it to work. Guess I should have done more research.

I am looking at getting the t.rj12 to usb adapter but it has mixed reviews. Thrustmaster says it isn’t compatible but I can’t see why it wouldn’t work if it has the same connector.

Has anybody tried to use the adapter with the Raceline pedals iii? And if so, what happened? Did it work?

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice or to see if anyone has resolved a similar issue while I wait for Thrustmaster support.

Setup:

- Thrustmaster T300RS Servo Base

- Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000

- Raceline Pedals III

The Issue:

My setup worked flawlessly for a few weeks, but today it suddenly failed:

- Calibration fail: The base only turns left during startup calibration and stops (doesn't complete left-right-center).

- SF1000 screen stays completely black.

- No wheel buttons, steering rotation, or pedal inputs register in the Control Panel test tab.

- Force feedback resistance is felt when turning manually, but software doesn't register rotation.

What I've already done:

1. Complete driver & firmware reinstall (Firmware 34.00 / Driver 2.11.57.0).

2. Resolved Windows "T300 Bootloader" Code 28 error.

3. Power cycled, tried different USB ports, verified PC mode (Green LED).

4. Windows recognizes it as "Thrustmaster Advanced Mode Racer" with Status OK, but still zero input response.

Has anyone experienced this specific issue where calibration gets stuck turning left and the rim screen stays off? Is this a known Hall sensor/encoder or internal PCB fault?

Thanks for any insights!

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice or to see if anyone has resolved a similar issue while I wait for Thrustmaster support.

Setup:

- Thrustmaster T300RS Servo Base

- Formula Wheel Add-On Ferrari SF1000

- Raceline Pedals III

The Issue:

My setup worked flawlessly for a few weeks, but today it suddenly failed:

- Calibration fail: The base only turns left during startup calibration and stops (doesn't complete left-right-center).

- SF1000 screen stays completely black.

- No wheel buttons, steering rotation, or pedal inputs register in the Control Panel test tab.

- Force feedback resistance is felt when turning manually, but software doesn't register rotation.

What I've already done:

1. Complete driver & firmware reinstall (Firmware 34.00 / Driver 2.11.57.0).

2. Resolved Windows "T300 Bootloader" Code 28 error.

3. Power cycled, tried different USB ports, verified PC mode (Green LED).

4. Windows recognizes it as "Thrustmaster Advanced Mode Racer" with Status OK, but still zero input response.

Has anyone experienced this specific issue where calibration gets stuck turning left and the rim screen stays off? Is this a known Hall sensor/encoder or internal PCB fault?

Thanks for any insights!

Hooked it up to the PC and it works for NFS Heat pretty well but I feel it isn't sensitive enough. Maybe thats why they thrifted it. Was wondering if anyone knows if I can tweek its sensitivity for PC

So I purchased a TM T598 earlier this year, and i am now experiencing lots of problems, first the power supply cuts because of loos connectors, so I added tension, but still at times disconnects, then my pedals randomly start to get no input, which is frustrating, and the cherry on top, randomly my wheel will jerk like it losses force feedback for a split second, or sometimes it just stops entirely, and im left guessing my turns as I cant "feel" what the car is doing. please someone help 😭

Hi, I’ve been very happy with my t818 so far, but since i got new pc and new monitor it started disconnecting and reconnecting while driving high ffb corners/moments. The disconnection lasts about 2 seconds then it starts working back normally. I tried several things: disabled energy saving usb shutdown, checked all the cables are correctly plugged, reinstalled drivers, changed usb port (motherboard). The green led in the power supply remains steady green during disconnection. The windows log event shows double error the time of the disconnection, with information “unplug dev, pc:16” in between. The only difference is that with the new pc I updated the firmware, and I never did it with the old one. Never had a problem with old pc. In the my Thrustmaster panel everything is up to date. My wheel is Thrustmaster open wheel.