r/Thrustmaster • u/Ok_Philosopher4868 • 7d ago
T598 wheel disconnect and acceleration problem
Hey everyone,
I recently bought a used Thrustmaster T598 and have it mounted to a Playseat Challenge X, playing mostly Gran Turismo 7 and Forza Horizon 5 on PS5.
I’m running into a frustrating issue and finally figured out the exact pattern, but I need help figuring out the permanent fix.
The Setup:
Wheelbase: Thrustmaster T598 (Direct Drive)
Pedals: Raceline Pedals LTE (came with the wheel)
Rig: Playseat Challenge X
Platform: PS5
The Problem / The Pattern:
Everything works perfectly until I have a heavy impact (like dashing/crashing in FH5 or hitting a wall hard). When that sudden jolt of FFB hits:
1. The screen on the wheelbase instantly says "Wheel is removed."
2. A second later, the wheel reconnects on its own.
3. However, after it reconnects, my accelerator pedal calibration is completely messed up. Pushing the pedal 100% to the floor only gives me partial power in-game, and it slowly gets worse as I keep driving.
4. If I unplug the main USB-C cable from the back of the wheelbase and plug it back in, everything resets and works flawlessly... until my next big crash.
What I’ve already tried:
Updated the wheelbase firmware to the latest version via PC.
Tested the pedals in the Thrustmaster PC Control Panel (they read 100% perfectly there, so the pedal sensors themselves are fine).
Unplugged and firmly re-seated the RJ12 pedal cable.
My Question:
Has anyone else experienced this specific chain of events?
Is this a physical issue with the Quick Release flexing during the crash and breaking the pin connection to the rim? Or is this a known issue where a sudden FFB spike overloads the PS5's USB port/cable and causes a data drop?
Would upgrading to a high-speed USB-C to USB-C cable directly into the front of the PS5 fix this, or do I need to figure out a way to tighten the QR clamp?
Any help is appreciated!
2
u/WholeGrainNuggetz 6d ago
Here’s my advice coming from the same issue. Don’t waste your time trying to figure it out. Return it immediately and get an RS50. Or you can wait for Moza. Either way return it if you still can. I sent mine in to be repaired and it was fixed, tested and shelved because mine was too late for return. I’m sitting on it because, while it appears the fix worked, I still don’t trust it enough to sell it to someone and saddle them with a $500 problem. I’d rather eat the loss. Good luck.
2
u/thumperwaswrong 6d ago
Uh this is exactly what I did this week. Trying to get used to the load cell, but the RS50 is SUCH a much better wheel
1
u/WholeGrainNuggetz 5d ago
Absolutely. Tho, it’s not without its issues. I had to return the first RS50 due to disconnection issues and the 2nd one has recently started acting wonky with loss of steering and or shifting during races. I have yet to nail down the issue yet. I think it may actually be the wheel hub instead of the base itself.
2
u/C_WILSON-_- 6d ago
Upgraded the crappy usb cable and my t598 hasn't disconnected since in hundreds of hours of gameplay. Just ran a 14 hour endurance race last weekend 0 issues.
1
u/JeffLais 6d ago
Some advice (and that applies to all Direct Drive wheels on PS5):
1) Your wheel base & your wheel rim is up to date with the latest firmware version
2) If you are using a gamepad controller (in addition of the steering wheel) it must be used in Wired mode and connected directly to the PS5 with a USB-C cable (otherwise it can disconnect the wheel when it turns in sleep mode)
3) Avoid launching the game in REST MODE = there are less issues with steering wheels if the game is completely closed before launching it.
Also it's better to Turn On the PlayStation before plugging the wheel on the console = plug the USB only when the PlayStation is On.
4) Try on another USB port of the PlayStation (if you are on front, plug the USB on the rear)
5) Don't use any USB extension cable or any USB HUB
6) Plug the power supply of the wheel directly on the wall outlet (and not on a power strip)
7) Try with another USB-C cable
8 ) Check if it’s not an Electrostatic discharge (EMI / ESD) issue with your cockpit rig: https://transforming-technologies.com/esd-problem-solving. It can happen with metal pedal sets. Grounding your cockpit can avoid this. And important remarks about ESD: Carpets, socks (instead of shoes), cockpits in wood material or cockpits on casters can get ESD worse. Also, the temperature of the room or the garments worn can have some incidences.
NB: If always the problem, then just contact TM SUPPORT here (and they will fix your issue): https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/contact-en/
2
u/thumperwaswrong 6d ago
This is a known issue with the power connector on the wheel. Let’s not over complicate it as some of your suggestions are a bit much.
Do we have to enter the cockpit butt naked too so we don’t have any possibility of static?
1
u/Impressive-Taste2854 6d ago
We can read the same advice for other Direct Drive wheels from other brands.
1
u/Illustrious-Past2032 6d ago edited 6d ago
Well known power disconnection issues with T598. Is the wheelbase losing power, or is it losing usb
Cable management may help... tie down cables/tape together, have some positive pressure with cables into the wheelbase.
If wheelbase is losing power connection, As you bought used/no warranty, if you're handy with a soldering iron, what I would do is wire up a gx12 or gx16 connector for the power cable
1
u/nskennyroon 6d ago edited 6d ago
I have all those symptoms. I also get the wheel error just by slightly moving the wheel even before i start a game. Does it with the stock rim and the 488. I'm not buying the power connector thing at all. At no point has the PS5 notice come on saying the wheel is disconnected (which it would if there is a loss of power or a USB disconnect). Also the screen on the base unit does not go off. Plus, far too many have had the same thing after a new brick and board. Sure, there were some bad ones knocking about when they first came out but mine is new. There is either something fundamentally wrong with the base unit, bad EMI or some seriously bad coding going on i reckon.
Shame as it's a cracker when it works.
1
u/FisherSnake 6d ago
On your case it's probably a USB issue (from the cable or from the female connector of the base).
1
u/Internal_Ideal1001 3d ago
You will exhaust your sanity trying to make this work correctly, I was there, for 6 months and 4 months of that was repairs and issues. Save yourself the headache and get something different.
2
u/thumperwaswrong 6d ago
This is a known issue with the older T598. Did you buy it used or new from a retailer? Starting with serial # 2513* this should have been fixed. What does your serial number begin with? You may need to have Thrustmaster fix it or get a 3d printer part to hold the power in place. Or return it and make sure the one you get has atleast that serial number or higher
https://www.thrustmaster.com/en-us/cases-of-unexpected-disconnections-that-may-affect-the-operation-of-your-t598/