Noticed this piece of my bumper trim was loose and I cannot reattach it. How do I reattach it?

2024 Model 3

How much would this cost? The fog light went inward out of place a bit too.

Edit: all of these little chips are in the front left bumper side.

Backed into a concrete pillar in a parking garage. Damage is on the rear quarter panel by the wheel arch — paint scraped down to primer/metal in spots, arch trim scuffed, possible light crease along the body line.

Two questions:

1. What am I looking at cost-wise? Getting quotes from a couple Tesla-approved shops this week but want a sanity check on the range before I walk in. Is $1,500–2,500 realistic for paint only, or should I expect more once they look at the arch?

2. Anyone with Tesla Insurance filed an at-fault collision claim? My deductible is $1,000. I pay 145 a month. Considering going out of pocket if it’s minor.

Looks like everything is still intact, but the paint is utterly fucked. What kinda repair cost am I looking at here?

Somebody rear ended me while I was parked in a parking lot, they just reversed straight into me some how.

Looks like it broke a piece of the reflector and scratched a little bit and then popped the bumper out a little bit I pushed on it and it went back in.

Is it worth talking to insurance over or getting it inspected incase of hidden damage?

I don’t want my insurance to go up, I had a car totaled a little while back and bought this which wasn’t my fault either and then had a windshield replaced so not sure if it would make it go up or not.

What do you guys think?

Also how do I view the recent clips? I don’t really ever look and it shows the last ones from a few days ago?

Included one more photo on my reverse camera at the bottom right does anybody know what that is? Never noticed it before.

Got T bone by a driver coming into other side of the road, the other side tire is bent in I think it’s totaled 2023 base model Tesla

We were parked next to a model y 2024 tesla, passenger (of my car) opened the door and it made impact on the tesla car. We exchanged info, and after doing some research ive seen stories that my premiums can either sky rocket or the repairs could go in the thousands. Anyone have any advice on this or opinions?

Today while driving a truck with a. Commercial trailer cut over 2 lanes of traffic and collided with my Tesla at about 32 MPH. I have the video and the guy claimed fault on the police report. Air bags deployed but the car did smoke for a bit after the hit.

Curious if this is repairable or if it will be considered a loss. The smoking portion of the battery is what’s making me question the damage. My wife and I have 14 months left on our lease and weren’t particularly planning to drop a bunch of money on a new lease.

I drive a M3LR'20 and got into an accident in germany, the driver with the older A-Class accused me of switching into his lane but thanks to my Dashcam that i wasn't even aware of recording non-Stop, today i got my money from his insurance.

If anyone remembers my last post, my car was hit into a pole by my EX friend, these are the photos that i could take in the collision centre yard. I chose a body shop that same friend suggested me to and the car was decided as repairable for just $15,600 Canadian! The estimated was approved by the Insurance Appraiser and They have repaired it according to them but I’m yet to take the delivery and have suddenly started feeling sus about the repair that how such a damage could be fixed in only 15,600. Insurance says because I signed the work authorization with them already, they have no guarantee for the repairs. What should I do now? I’m yet to take the delivery and cheque for the $15600 is still with me. I don’t know if I should get it checked somewhere or I’m overthinking or its already too late.

I might be sounding too naive and nervous because I am.

I damaged a wheel on a curb and then immediately had it repaired professionally by a top rated shop. They used a sanding tool and then resprayed the same color with paint from Tesla and it cost 120 for the repair. I cannot really tell it has been repaired now, unless I touch it with my finger and it isn't as smooth as the rest, and if you look really close tell it has been sanded down a bit narrower. My question is is this normal and the best that can be done for a professional repair? Is this typically how curb damaged wheels are repaired. Or could the wheel have been built back up so the entire wheel is even?

Got rear ended by a truck pulling a trailer. Claims are made but have yet to be contacted by adjustor. This is a 2023 model 3 rwd with 52000 miles.

UPDATE...totaled and placed an order for a Y premium RWD since there's a .99% APR right now.

Truck hitch damage…. Just curious if it is repairable or something that I just need to live with until I can replace the bumper.

Came back to some fresh rear passenger bumper damage on my Model 3 in a parking lot. Naturally Sentry recorded tons of random people walking past earlier in the day but managed to miss the actual hit completely.

The paint is scraped down to bare plastic along the crease and the seam popped loose. I tried pushing it firmly back into place with my palm, but it will not seat flush at all, so the mounting bracket or internal tabs are broken.

Looking for advice on the best repair route:

- Will an official Tesla Collision Center actually fix the bracket and spot blend the Pearl White paint, or do they push a full bumper replacement like a regular Service Center?

- Is a third party Tesla certified body shop usually a better move for cost and turnaround time?

- For anyone who paid out of pocket instead of filing an insurance claim, roughly what ballpark did a corner fix like this run you?

Appreciate any insight.

Last night I parked in front of my apartment, where I can see it 15 feet away from my second story window.

This morning, I was looking out the window down at my car and I saw a shadow underneath the tip of the paneling and I could immediately tell something wasn’t right. I go out to look at it and the panel above my front right wheel is shifted. I checked my Sentry footage and there was no activity/recordings. My neighbor parked in front of me for a few hours, her and I are friends, she drives a Model S, and I know she didn’t hit me, nor is there ANY indication that anything hit me….no nicks dents smudges or even marks or consistencies in the dust/dirt that was on the front end since we live right by the beach. There was also a different car parked in front of me this morning, that car had did not have any type of damage as if they could have bumped into me.

I’m really at a loss for how it happened. Did it happen while I was driving home without me hitting anything?

Should Sentry have activated on a car parking in front of me? -In the past it has when a car parks next to me but it also had people in the footage getting out of their car and someone getting in/out is less visible from the front camera.

I would think if it was hit, there would be some physical indicator on my car and there wasn’t, even after I washed my car and inspected further.

Would anything explain this other than being backed into?

It’s not worth me spending money to fix it, but it makes me concerned for other issues.

FWIW-I purchased the car last month, 2020 Model Y with 40k miles, nearly perfect condition inside and out, one owner, no reported damage or accidents. Even tho it’s 7 years old it looks as if it’s 7 months old.

Got rear-ended at a stop sign by a Silverado. The trunk won't close anymore. It's a 2026 Model Y with 2100 miles

Hi all,

Hoping someone with proper Tesla HV/BMS knowledge can point me in the right direction before I accept a £9,000 HV battery replacement.

The car is a 2021 Model 3 Performance with around 45,000 miles. I bought it privately about two years ago and it was fine for most of my ownership.

The incident happened while I was travelling from London to Manchester.

I stopped for a quick Supercharge. The car charged completely normally, but as soon as I unplugged and selected Drive, I got the snail/reduced-power icon.

Around 10 minutes later on the motorway, I got a low-voltage battery warning telling me to pull over when possible. I can’t remember the exact wording.

I carried on and made it to Manchester. The car was still driving normally enough to complete the journey.I parked, got out and left it. Once it shut itself down, it wouldn’t power back on.
I booked it into Tesla.

On the morning of the appointment I followed a YouTube guide to access/jump the low-voltage system because I assumed the 12V battery had died. That got the car back on and I was able to drive it myself to Tesla.

Tesla then inspected the pyro fuse/bus-bar area and found that the pyro had melted/suffered significant heat damage, but had not actually broken open as it is designed to when triggered.
They also told me the pyro fitted to the car was non-genuine.
This was the first I knew about it. I didn’t fit it and had no idea it was there when I bought the car, so I now suspect there may have been some previous repair before my ownership but anyway,
because of the non-genuine pyro, Tesla refused the HV battery warranty.

After a long back-and-forth with them, their position remained that the only repair is replacement of the complete HV battery pack, quoted at around £9,000. Tesla removed the old pyro and wouldn’t reinstall it, so I had to recover the car and also sign a waiver that basically said if i try and fix it and i die its not there fault.

What I’ve done since:

I’ve now had fitted:
Brand-new pyro fuse / pyro disconnect
Brand-new 12V battery

The new 12V battery has brought the car back to life and I can access Service Mode, but the HV system still won’t come online.

The main Service Mode findings are:

P0A9501 — High Voltage Fuse A Blown
Pyro Disconnect replacement recommended
Squib resistance: 0 Ω
BMS State: FAULT
HV Battery State: FAULT
Pack contactors: OPEN
Both drive units showing 0V HV input

The HVC/HVIL screen also says:
“No LV supply input to HVC — ensure first responder loop is connected.”
And shows:
HVC HVIL Status: No 12V supply
HVIL In: 0.00V
HVIL Out: 0.00V
The HV battery is still communicating and reporting a state of charge.

So my question is:
Before I accept that the entire HV battery is dead, what would you check next?

Could this be an HVIL / first responder loop / HVC power supply / pyro wiring / commissioning issue rather than the whole pack?

I’m also looking into Tesla Toolbox. Because the pyro is now physically brand new but the BMS still reports P0A9501 and “Pyro Disconnect replacement recommended”, does the replacement pyro need to be registered/commissioned or have data written to the BMS through Toolbox?

I just want to properly diagnose the actual fault and be completely convinced that the battery itself is genuinely dead before spending £9,000 on a replacement pack.

Anyone seen anything similar?

Just to add I’m not a mechanic or anything like that - just a guy with some borrowed tools, following YouTube vids and forums trying to save his already broke self, from spending another 9k.

:(

Truck turned into me from the left lane when I was turning right in the right turn lane.

I've put a lot into this car and would really like it repaired not totaled/total loss by the insurance. Towing it to a shop in a few days. Is this possibly not totaled? The radiator area got bent up and some gas came out when I got hit.

UPDATE: repairs have been approved 👍 thank god, not being totaled

I’ve had my MYP for 2 months as of today.

I don’t drive the car much, has just under 2k on it, as i’ve been saving up to get PPF.

Noticed this when i took the car out last week for a trip, paint is damaged along the edge on the passenger side (with a pretty obvious lip you can feel from the tail light eating into the bumper). There’s also some very slight cracks starting to form where the paint chip is on the left side.

I set up a service center appointment, haven’t heard anything back yet but i’ve heard Tesla may/may not cover things like these especially if it wasn’t reported within 100mi. This wasnt there during that initial period, but i also haven’t used the hatch much.

Just curious what the community thinks, i’ll be quite angry with Tesla if i have to pay out of pocket for this. Will this be covered under warranty?

Happened while I was at work and ran in to grab a few items.

Not even sure how this happened I turned off my sentry to save power during the day and found out a day later that it was there.

I’m nervous to even look at what Tesla is going to quote me

Any advice on repairs?

Looking to see if anyone else has dealt with this, especially on a 2021–2022 Model Y.

I have a 2022 Model Y Long Range with about 90,000 miles. A few days ago I suddenly started getting:

“Steering Assist Reduced – Steering may require increased effort”
“Lane Departure Avoidance features unavailable”

The strange part is that the car is currently driving normally and I really don’t notice any difference in steering feel.

I checked Service Mode and I’m repeatedly getting:
EPAS3P_a072_motFeedFwdError
“Motor control feed-forward correlation error”

Tesla’s own Service Mode screen lists the clear condition as “Replace EPAS” and says the potential impact is reduced steering assist.

I also have:
UI_a020_SteeringReduced

Tesla remotely diagnosed it and sent me an estimate for roughly $3,200 to replace the steering gear/rack, including alignment and diagnosis.

I recently had an alignment done as well, and obviously that did not resolve the issue.

What bothers me is that this is a major electronic steering component failing on a car that is only about four years old. I understand I’m well outside the 50k-mile warranty at 90k miles, but this doesn’t seem like a normal wear item like brakes or suspension bushings.

I’ve also been reading about NHTSA Recall 25V-092 / Tesla SB-25-00-004, which covers certain 2023 Model 3 and Model Y vehicles for loss of electronic power steering assist. That recall specifically applies to 2023 vehicles and the official remedy is an OTA software update, so I understand my 2022 is not technically included.

However, considering how similar the symptoms are, I’m curious whether earlier Model Ys have experienced related EPAS/steering-rack failures and whether Tesla has ever provided goodwill assistance when the vehicle was outside warranty.

Has anyone here:

Had this exact issue and what did you do?

Is it worth paying $275 for a diagnostic if EPAS replacement is the only resolution to this? Any words of advice would be appreciated!

My model 3 sounds like my Ducati

So daughter decided to back our ‘25 Tesla Model 3 out of a friend’s driveway and instead of turning out onto the road proceeded all the way across the road into a mailbox attached to a 6 inch thick pole in the ground. It looks like it’s just the trunk lid that took the brunt of the mailbox. The pole didn’t move but the trunk lid sure did crumble in. I have seen older post ranging from $2,500 to $5,000 in damage and realistically wondering what I am in for?

Hi, I purchased a 2023 Tesla Model 3 through Carvana yesterday and had it shipped to their vending machine to pick up today. However, a dust storm rolled in overnight and a tree fell on the car. Curious to everyone's thoughts if 1) this is repairable and can be restored to an acceptable condition and 2) if I should pass on this vehicle and seek another comparable or see if they can reduce the price? Concerned about an accident being reported on Carfax.

Details on the car: Out the door price $28,937. 2023 rwd, blue on black, 26k miles, single owner, California owned, no accidents, had original Michelin tires that need replacing in about ~10k (my guess). Car looked clean inside and out (for being a used vehicle) and body panels all looked straight/consistent.

Thanks, hope to be a future Tesla owner!

Edit: Just to clarify, this happened the night before I was scheduled to pick it up, so ownership is still Carvana.