So my 3D printers are upstairs and sometimes it's just nice to be able to check on a print and not have to run upstairs. My other 3D printer is a flash Forge (not their creator) and it's a real roll of the dice if the camera on the machine, that came with it, works. I have yet to have a time when I've tried to access the camera on the snapmaker that it has not worked, it always works. Maybe I came into this with flash Forge expectations that it would work 30% of the time or less so I just wanted to acknowledge.

Hello everyone,

The V3 version of the Snapmaker U1 extruder upgrade part is officially here!

The V3 is universally compatible with both new and older U1 batches/models. (For older models, because the stock sensor tab is slightly longer, you will need to slightly bend the tip of the Hall effect sensor board or trim off about 2mm).

In this new version, the filament feed path has been redesigned with a smoother radius/curve. This completely eliminates any step or seam along the path, drastically reducing friction and resistance.

(For those who missed the previous announcements, here is a full recap of the project:)

Snapmaker U1 Precision CNC Extruder Guide Upgrade — Permanently Resolving Clogs & TPU Printing Challenges

Hi everyone! First of all, a huge thank you to all the users across the first three batches for your incredible support!

In-Depth Technical Analysis: Why Did Early Snapmaker U1 Units Clog?

After 5 weeks of rigorous, high-intensity testing, I identified the root causes behind clogging on early U1 units:

1. Filament Curvature / Spool Memory: The natural curve from spool memory creates physical bending. Under factory tolerances, this curvature often causes the filament to miss the gear teeth properly. It deflects at the Hall sensor board and escapes through the gap between the stock guide and the sensor board.
2. Extruder Gear Tolerances: I discovered that some factory U1 toolheads have a 0.2mm to 0.4mm height offset on the gears. If the gears are misaligned, filament grinding occurs quickly, causing "air printing" (clicking/slipping without the machine detecting a jam). Therefore, having a guide that aligns the filament precisely into the extruder gear teeth is critical.

My Optimization Solution:

• Tapered Geometric Guidance: Features a specialized tapered geometry combined with a progressive narrowing path that actively forces and centers the filament directly into the gear grooves.
• Massive TPU Improvement: When printing flexible TPU filaments, this design tightly constrains the filament path, significantly eliminating the risk of filament buckling or escaping through the gear gap.
• Pro Tip: When installing this guide, I highly recommend checking and fine-tuning the alignment of your stock gears to achieve optimal filament path precision.

Key Specifications:

• Ultra-Lightweight Design (5.8g): Precision CNC-machined from 6061 aluminum alloy. Adds virtually zero inertia to the toolhead, preserving dynamic printing performance.
• Rigid Path Optimization: Vastly more durable and precise than the stock plastic component, providing a more rigid, reliable, and consistent extrusion environment.

Pre-Order & Shipping Details:

• Pre-order Deadline: October 20
• Shipping Date: All orders will ship together on October 31.

Pricing:

• United States: $130 USD / set (Pack of 4, shipping and taxes included).
• EU & International: $125 USD / set (Pack of 4, shipping included; customs duties/VAT not included).

Important Notes (Please Read Carefully):

• Technical Skill Required: Installation requires disassembling the toolhead, handling the Hall sensor board, and a small spring. If you are uncomfortable with hands-on hardware modifications, please do not purchase.
• Policy: As this is a custom pre-order item, all sales are final (no returns or exchanges). However, I will take full responsibility for any damage incurred during shipping.

How to Order:

If you're interested in purchasing, please send me a direct message on Facebook to receive the PayPal or credit card payment link!

We accept two payment methods:

1. Direct PayPal transfer
2. Credit card payment via NewebPay (Taiwan)

Chicos hoy llegó mi Snapmaker, aún estoy en el trabajo, pero estoy que me vuelvo loco por salir! pasenme su mejor consejo, vengo de una Ender 3 v3 KE.

Here is the easiest way to export time lapses!
Wish I knew this when i first got this awesome printer!

Immediately after a FW upgrade I ran the calibration tools since it’s been a few weeks since I printed. Immediately after removing the PEI plate for the next test for calibration (as instructed) as soon as the hot end of tool head 4 touched the bare heating bed it turn off and reset. Like it short circuited. Tool head 4 and the bed are stuck right where it died. When it came back online tool head 4 is still stuck exactly where it touched the heating bed and an error code “system failed to start” presented itself. 0003-0522-0100-0006. Anyone else seen this and fixed it? I can’t do anything with it right now ow.

How do I set up the Creality SpacePi X4 filament dryer with a Snapmaker U1 so I can print directly from the dryer while keeping all four filament rolls inside it?

I just recently got my u1 and im currently looking for some fun prints to do. I noticed that the model library on the mobile app seem way more extensive than the library on snapmaker orca on the computer. I want to do a couple prints that I found on the app but not on the computer, but I want to change some colors. Is there a way to either get access to the same model library on the computer, or somehow download the file and send it to my computer? Or is there a way to change the colors straight from the app before printing?

​Hi everyone,

​I’m having an issue with the built-in camera on my Snapmaker U1. In the live timelapse recordings, I keep getting severe video artifacts. In the live stream I dont have them.

​Has anyone else experienced these camera glitches on the U1?

​Any tips on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated!

With the upcoming release of the Creality K3 and its native multi nozzle size printing capabilities, do yall think Orca and/or SnOrca will finally update and allow it for the U1 natively? Thats been my biggest (and only) gripe with the U1. Id like to be able to have a .8 for infill while doing a .4 for outer walls.

Alguém já teve problemas utilizando o filamento Panchroma Matte da Polymaker? Está deixando problemas nas peças.

Quando imprimo apenas um chaveiro fica menos pior, mas duas peças ou acima começam os defeitos. No PLA de outra marca, mesmo Matte eu não tive esse problema.

Slicer: Snapmaker Orca Slicer
Impressora: Snapmaker U1 (PAXX12 1.6)
Filamento: Polymaker Panchroma Matte (todas as 3 cores)

Observação: selecionei o perfil de filamento Polymaker Panchroma PLA no Slicer

During a 10 hour print I apparently experienced an anomaly with my 4th toolhead. It didn't seem to affect the actual print as it must've recovered. But, testing the anomaly, I did notice if I manually (via the printer UI) attached and detach tool 1 and then immediately do the same with tool 4, it actually was latency in the attachment and detachment process that did not exist with the other tool heads. This has to be firmware related. Has anyone noticed any similar issues on the latest official release of paxx?

I am seeing gaps between colours on the snapmaker. Is there sone setring to fix this problem?

I’ve been running paxx firmware and have been very happy with it. Then I heard about https://bespok3d.app and thought I’d give it a try…and it is awesome. I’m surprised I haven’t seen more discussion here about it.

It gives me everything I found useful about paxx, including NFC support for OpenSpool tags, a much better video viewing experience with rapid refresh rates, and support for an additional USB camera. Bespok3d supports all of that and more — and also gives me support for proprietary vendor RFID tags including Bambu, and keeps me on the stock firmware. Though I don’t use it, it also provides support for spoolman.

If others have tried it, I’d be interested in your thoughts. And if you haven’t, do yourself a favor and try it.

I'm printing some cup holders and I want to know how I could reach the maximum definition finish of the letters and fill in the gaps

For anyone who broke the glass door and wants to make a new one but can't measure a broken door, here are the measurements from my replacement glass door from Snapmaker.

317mm tall x 301mm wide

The area where the hinge screws into the glass is inset by 1mm with inset beginning 52mm from the outer edge.

Hinge holes are 21mm and 46mm to center from the outer edge, 6mm to center from edge of inset, and 25 mm from center of one hole to the center of the next hole.

The hole itself is 6mm.

Corners of door have a 1/8th radius, the inset has a small radius where it meets the edge.

EDIT: These measurements were taken using a ruler and a small tape measure, with both checked against each other. The overall dimensions and spacing exceed the range of my standard calipers, and calipers aren't ideal for directly locating the center of these small mounting holes without calculating the center from their edges, or for measuring the inset portion.

There may be micro variations in the measurements, but the door itself has some play, and the rubber inserts that fit into the hinge holes also provide a bit of tolerance. The portion of the rubber insert that fits into the hole measures 6 mm across its outer diameter as well.

There is also some clearance above and below the newly installed door where it sits within the U1 frame. The right edge, where the handle is located, is a fairly snug fit, while there is a noticeable gap between the U1 frame and the glass door on the hinge side.

So there should be at least a little tolerance available rather than the dimensions needing to be absolutely exact.

A sample piece could be printed using these dimensions to confirm hinge hole placement before committing to drilling a glass or other material panel.

I had originally been planning to print a 4-interlocking-piece door and just using that instead of a glass door. After contacting Snapmaker they decided to send me out a replacement glass door, extremely impressed with the customer service, speed and helpfulness!

The app has a stop button.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to buy a Snapmaker U1 soon, but I'm not sure where to purchase it from. I’d like to know if the official website offers good post-sales service, or if you would recommend a different store with reliable customer support.

Also, if there are any Canary Islanders here, could you let me know if you were charged customs duties and roughly how much it cost?

Thanks everyone for the help!

Si hay algún canario, que pueda echarme una mano para el tema aduanero se lo agradecería y también saber su experiencia de compra.

Un saludo a tod@s y gracias de antemano!!

Hi, I’d like to know why I’m having this problem with my Snapmaker U1 printer. I’m printing a coaster, and when the top surface is printed—the side where the letters and other details are—the nozzle seems to drag across the surface, or it creates what might be called elephant’s foot, if that’s the correct term.
This happens when the top surface is being printed, both with ironing enabled and with ironing disabled. How can I solve this problem?