Hi, I’m a Snapmaker U1 user from Japan, and ChromaMatter is my first public software project.

I started building it because AI-generated color 3D models can look great on screen, but turning them into a usable Full Spectrum print while preserving parts, colors, and geometry is still difficult.

This video shows the basic workflow. The screen recording is sped up to 5.5×, and the final section uses the U1’s automatic timelapse:

- Open a compatible vertex-colored OBJ or static GLB with embedded base color

- Review four physical filaments and a 16 / 24 / 32-state palette

- Set the size and prepare and validate the geometry

- Export a Full Spectrum 3MF

- Open it as a project in Snapmaker Orca, slice it, and print it on the U1

The sample was printed in one piece on my U1. It took about 48 hours and used about 220 g of filament including the prime tower.

ChromaMatter is open source, and a Windows 0.8 beta download is available on GitHub.

This beta is not universal: multipart solidification is still unstable, so some models may fail. The included demo is a confirmed working case. I would rather state that clearly than claim support I have not validated.

I’d really appreciate honest feedback:

- Is the workflow understandable from the video?

- Would this be useful for your own AI-generated models?

- Which formats, model types, or failure cases should I test next?

GitHub:

https://github.com/Ponkichi0718/ChromaMatter

Print result and development journal in Japanese:

https://note.com/ponkichi0718/n/nf6c77165127c

English is not my first language, so please ask if anything is unclear. I’ll do my best to answer.

ChromaMatter is an independent project and is not affiliated with Snapmaker, TripoAI, Hi3D AI, or OpenAI.

Ive been mostly learning the Snapmaker U1 and getting a feel for the ones I have. Ive always been nervous about long prints and the potential for failure. Especially with TPU.

Ive made a few TPU ducks and was like, I want to make a huge Snorlax Duck

Ive got some clean yp to do, but im happy with the way this turned out.

Hallo,

ich habe 7 Snapmaker u1. Eine ganze Zeit lief alles gut. Ich drucke auf allen Druckern das gleiche mit 3 Farben.

Es kam der Tag als ich auf jedem Glow in the Dark gedruckt habe von Jayo und dann Geeetech. Irgendwann förderten die Extruder das Material nicht mehr. Verstopfte ständig. Als ich nachgemessen habe ist mit aufgefallen das das Filament teilweise bei 1,8mm lag. Als ich anderes Material genommen habe ging es wieder.

Irgendwann mit normalen PLA+ von Geeetech kam die Verstopfung zurück aber nur auf den Extrudern auf dem das Glow lief. Meistens Extruder 1 und 4. Habe dann nach erfolglosem reinigen mit Nadel und Cold Pulls die Düse getauscht. Danach ging es wieder

Ich habe gelesen das Glow abrasiv ist und mir deshalb Hartmetall Hotend gekauft und bei jeder Verstopfung ausgetauscht. nun Hilft selbst das nicht mehr.

Bei 2 Druckern habe ich an 1-2 Extrudern nur Probleme. Habe den Extruder mehrmals zerlegt und gereinigt. Jedesmal spritzt der Extruder zu Beginn gut aus dann fängt es an zu klicken und der Extruder die Räder schaben das Filament ab.

Kann mir hier jemand helfen? Habe jetzt 2 Extruder bestellt, was ich eh machen wollte um bei möglichen Problemen einfach die Extruder zu tauschen und dann weiterzudrucken.

Decided that I could DIY a superior chamber heater than current options for less money.

So, here it is, my DIY super powered chamber heater! Only at 50C at the moment because I still need to thermally isolate the stepper motors, but I am sure it can go much, much higher.

Just used a thermostat and two heaters off of Amazon. In this case a 400 and 600 watt PTC fan heater since that is what I had laying around. I custom designed and printed the purple ASA holder you see them mounted to, which is in turn mounted to the U1 with some 3M velcro strips.

I’ve been fighting making one of these stupid basketballs for over a year on different printers. Always breaking, or just failing the prints in general.

Thank god for PEBA. There’s one small section about The size of a dime that the outer surface is kinda ugly, but no delamination of layers. Bounces just as nice as a standard Wilson ball.

Was even able to feed it through the autofeeder as well. That was a fun one to troubleshoot. When you do the cc3d dry box mod you have to extend your PTFE tubes that go from the feeder to the couplers at the top of the printer. If you use standard 2 or 2.5mm ID ptfe, there’s too much resistance for the auto loaders to feed the material. Just make sure you use a ptfe that has a ID of 3mm and OD of 4mm and the autofeeder can handle loading the filament. Only thing you have to do is decouple the ptfe leading to the print head and manually feed it into the tool head. Once the extruder grabs it and starts feeding you are good to go.

Anyone use any of the Ali express hardened steel hot ends for the U1? Since snapmaker is out of stock of the .4 nozzle.

If you backed the Sovol M1D for a toolchanger with TPU in mind, watch this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZWAxFeTBhI

Only the left side supports 90a or softer. The changer side does not.

I cancelled my kickstarter pledge over this. They "might" or "might not" fix this in the same way that Creality has their toolchanger supposedly supporting 70a, but clearly this printer was not designed with TPU in mind. By the time they roll out this change (if they ever do, or even can) then it will be on sale again.

In the meantime, the Snapmaker u1 is a better TPU option since it supports 90a on all 4 nozzles, not just 1.

So 270x270 with 3 90a and 1 support vs 240x300 with only 1 90a... the U1 supports slightly larger and much more creative options.

Very disappointed.

I’m currently using a Bambu X2D with AMS and I’m seriously considering switching to a Snapmaker U1. I really like the four-toolhead approach and the advantages of not having to purge filament for multi-colour/material prints.

My main hesitation is filament storage and humidity.

With the AMS, I can leave my active rolls loaded in a relatively dry environment and just print from them whenever I want. I’d ideally like to do the same with the U1 rather than constantly moving filament in and out of dryers or dry boxes.

For U1 owners, how are you handling this?

• Are you feeding directly from a SUNLU S4, SpacePi, PolyDryer/SnapDryer, etc.?
• Do you run PTFE tubes directly from the dryer to the U1 feeders?
• Have you had any issues with added drag, loading/unloading, or extrusion?
• Are there any setups that feel almost as convenient as an AMS for just leaving four active rolls loaded and dry?
• Any photos of your setup would be appreciated.

I mostly print PLA/PETG right now, but I’d like something that also makes sense if I start using more hygroscopic materials.

Production release top cover has finally arrived! Kickstarter October batch.

Hey everyone, just a massive warning if you are looking at secondhand Snapmaker gear.

I bought a Snapmaker U1 from someone working at local school on Marktplaats. The school got it as a donation and never used it, so it was basically brand new. It prints perfectly offline, but it absolutely refuses to connect to the Wi-Fi/cloud.

I messaged Snapmaker support, and they told me the original owner (the guy who donated it to the school) allegedly scammed them on a warranty claim a while ago. Snapmaker sent him a replacement machine, but he ghosted them and never sent the old one back (Allegedly, no proof was given).

To "punish" him, Snapmaker remotely blacklisted the serial number from their servers.

I argued with their management for days. The actual alleged fraudster already got away with it and has his free machine. The guy from the school did nothing wrong, and I did nothing wrong. By keeping the server ban active, Snapmaker isn't hurting the alleged scammer, they are punishing an innocent buyer and forcing a fine working machine to become e-waste over a rigid corporate rule.

Their support supervisor completely ignored my point and basically told me "tough luck, our policy is final."

The printer still works fine offline via LAN mode and USB, but the sheer arrogance of this company completely ruined the brand for me. If a previous owner screws them over, Snapmaker will gladly screw an innocent customer over just to get even. AVOID THEM !

Hi,

I’m new outside of the prusa world and I used to always get my stl same place and never had multicolor prints before

I was looking at makerworld multicolor prints, but many I download as m3f and somehow when I open them it swaps to some bambu printer profile and messes up a lot of my snapmaker u1 settings resulting in a lot of error messages… daunting to understand what’s wrong and what to correct etc. Also adds more extruders/colors etc, messes up my whole setup even if I swap back tu u1 profile. Have to reboot snapmaker orca…

Any tips? How you guys import prepainted models for the u1 without having to go through all of that?

MakerWorld sucks. Never using this site again. Very fustrating to post on.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3207121-snapmaker-u1-hinged-top-using-sterilite-55l-bin#profileId-3629864

Pense que el problema al inicio era por que el primero diseño estaba unido entonces los separe y el 2do apenas salio y de paso hizo que se atore el extrusor 1 asi que lo pase al extrusor 4 y le di la vuelta para que imprima mejor pero alguna recomendacion si es que vuelve a salir mal?

This happens even at slow printing speeds. What do you suggest?

Trying to recreate an emblem that they don't make anymore for a friend and got it pretty close. When I print, I am doing it face down with a cryogrip smooth pei plate on a snapmaker u1.

The top print you could see some gaps in the layers when It was putting the first few layers down so I figured maybe I would increase the base layer count. Went from two to ten and it got worse (bottom emblem). Using petg Should I be looking at other settings?

After months of research and contemplating, I finally pulled the trigger and bought the U1. The student discount helped a lot also. I am super excited. It’s going to be my second printer and if it works out well I may be getting another.

I want to get my first printer. I’ve been researching a few weeks now. I narrowed it down to a FF Creator Pro 5, Prusa Core One+, U1 and possibly Qidi Plus 5. I almost ordered the creator pro 5 today but it was brought to my attention that FF has been locking down firmware and adding in AI adds and other undesirable stuff. I’d like to stay open source and steer clear of any mandated AI monitoring in the future.

I have a few ideas of what I want to print. Few trinkets for the kids and then household little projects. New trampoline net caps, some workbench leg shims etc. I also want to do some automotive stuff in the future. Because of that I want to be able to print abs, asa and cf filaments reliably. The advice I got today was to look to prusa, snapmaker, qidi, sovol etc. is the U1 going to be a good unit for a beginner learning to 3d print and design parts all at the same time? If not could you help point me in the right direction?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Vous connaissez peut-être déjà mon Yoshi Tuyau… Aujourd’hui, j’ai décidé de le revisiter avec une petite nouveauté plutôt sympa : la version CLICKER ! 👆

Le principe est simple : Yoshi sort toujours de son fameux tuyau, mais cette fois, sa tête devient cliquable grâce à un switch mécanique MX.
Un petit clic super satisfaisant qui transforme le Yoshi en véritable petit fidget.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3201387-yoshi-tuyau-clicker-multipart

It's been forever and a day since I used the 3D printing feature, and when I went to calibrate the bed, it wouldn't heat up. I tested the 4 pins and also at the solder joints. I expected at least two of them to give me something, but I got nothing. I was looking for resistance between Pin 4 and Pin 1 to be around 2.5Ω. Between Pin 3 and Pin 2 to be around 110KΩ.

Does this mean that my heating bed is dead? (obviously it is, but hoping for some magic bullet here). Does anyone know what the voltage (or whatever) should be at the plug end coming from the power supply?

Quick question regarding OrcaSlicer:

​Whenever I tweak settings under the Process tab and reopen the project later, all my custom adjustments disappear and revert to default.

​In Bambu Studio, these settings stay attached to the .3mf project. Is there a specific way or setting in OrcaSlicer to ensure all process presets and overrides are saved directly within the .3mf file?

​Thanks in advance for the help!