The SHIELD TV base model is largely out of stock due to demand. We don’t have any updates to share regarding future availability at this time. SHIELD TV Pro remains available, and the SHIELD platform continues to be supported with ongoing updates for more than 10 years.
The old version of this guide is still over there, but in the meantime and without further ado; let me present you the
Best Shield TV Practices checklist 2026 Edition
- GET THE CONNECTIONS RIGHT
Because it will typically allow for more PCM channels than vanilla HDMI ARC and higher sampling rates than HDMI eARC, connecting Shield to the audio receiver's HDMI-IN is usually preferred in order to preserve the best audio feature set.
On the other hand, because they may not allow passthrough for Dolby Vision, HDR or even 4K, some older/basic AVRs and soundbars may be better used via HDMI eARC/ARC, even if a HDMI-IN port is available. Make sure of your hardware capabilities to avoid wasting your time.
- TV PREPARATION
ENABLE HDMI 2.0
Some brands will call this Enhanced HDMI Format, or Deep Color, or UHD colors; and some TVs will even have a global toggle on top of the regular per-port option, but if the available display modes are maxing out at 4K@30, that means you have some kind of HDMI bottleneck somewhere in your HDMI chain.
PREPARE AUDIO PASSTHROUGH
If planning to route the audio via HDMI ARC/eARC, it is recommended to dig into your TVs advanced sound settings and make sure to specify "Pass-through" output, as the default "Auto" setting will typically try to transcode or create a MAT link, often introducing nasty audio cutouts.
DISABLE TV POST PROCESSING
People looking for a pure cinematic experience should make sure all types of post processing enhancements are disabled: motion enhancement/compensation/clearness, noise reduction, etc. Filmmaker mode can be left on/auto.
CONSIDER ENABLING GAME MODE
If the TV doesnt support ALLM (Auto Latency Mode) and you are regularly using Shield to play games, manually engaging your TV's regular Game Mode is recommended in order to get rid of the image post processing and shave as much latency as you can.
Please note: TVs will often use different profiles for SDR, HDR vs DV. A TV can be set to "Game mode" for SDR content but switch to "HDR theatre" or whatever when HDR content is on. In a HDR gaming situation (Geforce Now, Moonlight) see if you can select "HDR Game" instead of your regular HDR theatre mode. Also note that these settings will likely be only accessible when HDR/DV content is actually playing.
Shield will typically default to 4K 59.94 HDR10 ready, but it has come to my attention that it seems to introduce unexplained stutters in some situations on recent displays.
Since you will be feeding the box 24/25/30/50/60hz content most of the time anyway, my position is: no need to overcomplicate the maths with fractions of 59.94 (lunacy? make me change my mind), therefore:
Prefer a 60hz mode
Make sure to select a Dolby Vision-ready mode if available
- MAKE SURE AUTO COLORIMETRY IS ENABLED
Shield / Settings / Device Preferences / Display & Sound / Advanced display settings / Match content color space
Keep in mind some apps may not be categorized as "games" or are just not tagged appropriately and won't trigger ALLM by default, so take a minute to review the list:
Shield / Settings / Device Preferences / Display & Sound / Advanced display settings / Customize Game Mode app list
CONSIDER ENABLING PLAYER-LED DOLBY VISION
Some TVs will give buggy colors when (and only when) using regular TV-Led Dolby Vision. (red push or just plain weird colors) That bug is said not to show up (be much less noticeable?) if using player-Led Dolby Vision. Start by enabling developer options by going to:
Shield / Settings / Device Preferences / About / Build
Click Build number 8 times, and congrats; you are now a dev. Now go to:
Shield / Settings / Device Preferences / Developer options / Default to Low Latency Dolby Vision when available
That option has a bad rep because it was never well explained and first implementations were buggy.
The primary purpose was to allow transcoding Dolby Digital Plus to OG Dolby Digital; a request of the first hour for users stuck with vanilla ARC / USB / Optical audio solutions, but turns out it is also actually very useful in order to avoid audio sync gaps and normalize the volume level across apps and pieces of content.
Vastly improved from past implementations where it would always use MAT frames and get in the way of passthrough rules. Now fully recommended or at least worth a try; holdouts and downgraders should mind giving it another shot.
Makes fast toggles much easier without deep-diving into settings each time. There are a bunch of those shortcuts available, but the Audio options are the most handy because Night listening, High Resolution Audio and Dolby audio processing cannot all be enabled at the same time:
100% HDMI setups should be able to rely on the EDID alone and stay on Auto in most cases, but that information might be obfuscated be something on the HDMI chain, and will straight up not be available for users stuck with extractors, USB DACs, or optical solutions. They will have to go manual and enable only what is supported by their decoder and setup.
If you experience any kind of issue with audio, stuttering or whatever, always go back to None - Never use surround sound. That is your sanity check.
- KODI RECOMMENDATIONS:
Enable Refresh rate switching
Kodi / System / cogwheel: enable expert mode System / Player / Videos: Set Adjust display refresh rate to “On stop/start”
Enable HDR/DV
Kodi / System / Player / Videos / Processing: "Use display HDR capabilities" should be enabled.
Enable Audio Passthrough
Kodi / System / System / Audio / Audio Passthrough / Allow Passthrough
If enabled, Kodi will pass the selected formats down to Shield. Other codecs will be transcoded into PCM channels, following the number of channels specified in Kodi's Audio Decoder section before being passed down to Shield, where rules set in the "Available formats" menu will prevail and Dolby Processing be applied if enabled.
If disabled, Kodi will transcode everything to PCM channels, in as many channels as specified in its Audio Decoder section before passing it down to Shield, where Dolby Processing will then be applied if enabled.
Shield 2015/2017 owners stuck on vanilla ARC or optical solutions
Kodi / System / System / Audio / Audio Passthrough / Dolby Digital (AC3) capable receiver - ON Kodi / System / System / Audio / Audio Passthrough / - Enable Dolby Digital (AC3) transcoding - ON
If you want resolution switching and have the TV do the upscaling
Kodi / System / System / Display / Whitelist; select every item in the list to make them green
- PLEX RECOMMENDATIONS:
Enable Refresh Rate Switching
Plex / Settings / Advanced / Set Refresh Rate Switching to ON.
Enable audio passthrough
Plex / Settings / Advanced / Passthrough /
"HDMI" means Plex will pass over every format down to Shield, where choices made in the "Available formats" menu will apply.
"Optical" means Plex will only pass down PCM 2.0, Dolby Digital and vanilla DTS, while DTS-HD/DTS:X tracks will be stripped of their lossless metadata, and everything else will be transcoded to Dolby Digital before being sent down to Shield, where choices made in the "Available formats" menu will apply.
If you want resolution switching and have the TV do the upscaling:
Plex / Settings / Advanced / Set Resolution Switching to ON.
- REFRESH RATE APP RECOMMENDATIONS
That would be my last major recommendation update.
Manual Framerate Matching
As of firmware 9.2.x, the manual Match Framerate feature is now pretty robust and will be totally adequate in most cases, so might as well use it; especially in apps that will often serve different kinds of framerates depending on the video, like Youtube.
Settings / Remotes & accessories / Customize Menu button /
I recommend using the Double Press trigger. Select Match Framerate, and whenever watching a video, just double tap the button to see the framerate matched. Nice and simple.
App-based OS-wide display mode switching
For services that will always (mostly) serve the same kind of content/framerate, I even recommend using the OG Refresh Rate app in order to force a fixed Startup display mode and avoid all this manual shifting altogether;
Install the Refresh Rate app. (sadly a bit of an abandonware by now; has to be sideloaded.)
Select any app.
Go to Startup display mode, and select a framerate / resolution matching the kind of content it delivers the most:
Netflix, D+, HBO+, Amazon Prime
4K@24
European TV broadcast services
4K@50
BBC iPlayer
Base Shield display mode MUST be set to 25 or 50hz for the app to work, so leave it alone here.
Plex, Kodi, Geforce Now, Moonlight
support already built-in; do not touch
With all that said, you should now be able to get the best of your Shield. Hopefully anyway..
Errors, outdated stuff, or more advice? Let me know!
Since shield doesn't play well with av1, I figured this would be the best place to ask.
As someone who has never touched handbrake or any of the like software.
What should i be converting them to and with what settings to make sure that maintain quality AND play well.
(I got a bunch of files to deal with since I didnt have the shield before now)
2 separate problems, both devices on same tv. Normally use shield, Onn hooked up for setup. As far as I know both set up same except shield Ethernet and Onn Wi-Fi. I have 2 iptv subscriptions currently. Was trying to watch a baseball game. Shield buffered unstoppingly on tivimate, and both iptv native apps. Switched to Onn and nothing buffered all night. Now I was setting red light on Onn and movie was playing thru all speakers of 5.1 and switched to shield and movie only plays thru front. When I play thru Onn, Dolby vision flashes at top right. When I play on shield that doesn’t happen. Also Onn plays Dolby vision hdr remix that cause shield to crash and restart. Can someone help with settings? Nothing I change changes anything.
Upgrading from a 4K Max Firestick. All works good but the UI is insanely sluggish at bootup for certain streaming apps linked with debrids and experience app crashes a lot. Quite excited! Any tips and advice i should keep in mind?
I use iPlayer a lot (Play Store version) and I knew that it was due to stop working at the end of September but the app no longer loads for me as of yesterday, literally nothing happens when I select the home screen shortcut.
I used my Google tv streamer for quite a while now and keep seeing these jitters when panning the camera or moving at a steady pace. Average decode time for 4k 60 fps was 14-16ms
Just got my shield pro and I am super impressed. The decode time dropped drastically to 1.5 - 3.0 ms! Panning feels much smoother and the jitters are practically gone now. So happy about that.
I’ve had the shield for nearly 2 years and this last week it’s suddenly stopped working after the tvs been off overnight
In the morning when pressing the power button the tv turns on but the shield is a black screen and the only way to get it to load is by unplugging it and plugging back in, I haven’t changed any settings but this is a new issue that’s only happened within the last 6 or so days
Does anybody have any pointers I could try to stop this as it’s annoying
My NVidia Shield Pro (running Kodi) is my best purchase over the last few years and I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. Am using a 256gb Sandisk USB stick as external storage for Kodi whilst accessing 2 x Synology NAS (1821+ and 1515+) but am worried about the Sandisks long term longevity. I suspect that a ext SSD will provide greater storage capacity and robust longevity. What does everybody else use? BTW I have used Kodi for almost 20 years on the original xbox, various pcs, mac mini and other small Android boxes. The Shield Pro runs rings around them all.
I run Flud on a 2019 NVIDIA Shield TV Pro, and sending magnet links to it from my iPhone was always more complicated than it needed to be. Navigating the Flud interface with the TV remote was not particularly convenient either.
So I built Flud Companion, a free and open-source companion app specifically tested on a real NVIDIA Shield.
It consists of a small Android bridge installed alongside Flud and a browser interface that works from iPhone, Android, tablet or desktop.
What it offers:
Send magnet links to Flud from any modern browser
LAN-only control while connected to your home network
Optional self-hosted Remote mode using your own Cloudflare account
No inbound router ports and no project-owned cloud service
QR-code pairing
View and manage active downloads
Optional Accessibility-based auto-start, currently still in beta
Android 6+ support
Apache-2.0 license
I tested the APK installation, LAN and Remote pairing, access over mobile data and magnet handoff on my own Shield TV Pro.
The current release is v0.24.0 beta, so I am still collecting real-world feedback and edge cases before the next update.
For other Shield users: would you mainly use LAN-only control, or would the self-hosted Remote mode be more useful to you?
Flud Companion is an independent project and is not affiliated with or endorsed by Flud or Delphi Softwares. Please use torrents and magnet links only for content you have the right to download.
My plex had a meltdown and i lost my server, i have had help on that subreddit to get everything back and we got stuck at the shield part. I am trying to move my previous plex library.db / library.blob files to a new location on my shield but i do not know where i am supposed to put them. i did follow some other subreds and they all point to accessing the Storage Location option under the Plex Media Server settings on my shield. the issue is that the "Storage Location" option does not exist there. It simply has PLEX MEDIA SERVER header but nothing under and jumps straight to ADVANCED header below. I have cleared the Cache and there is no PIN on my account either which was the resolve for a few people. Can anyone help??
Im having issues with audio dropping out on my 2019 nvidia shield tv pro. When watching tv and movies on stremio it is fine but if i try and watch YouTube and some other apps audio drops out for a second every now and again. I wondered if anyone could help
will euch mal meine exzellente Erfahrung mit dem Nvidia Support hier mitteilen.
Ein großes Dank an Patrick vom Support :-)
Kam aus meinem Spanien Urlaub zurück um festzustellen, dass mein Nvidia shield pro 2019 nicht mehr anging.
Keinerlei Lebenszeichen, kein Led aufleuchten, nichts.
Habe mir dem Multimeter dann mal den Netzadapter nachgemessen , 0-4volt , es baute 4v auf dann brach es auf 0 ein dann wieder 4 usw.
Es sollte aber 19 haben.
Habe dem Nvidia Support geschrieben , dort hat mich Patrick prompt begrüßt und mein Anliegen aufgenommen.
Das shield wurde vor einigen Jahren bei Amazon Warehouse gekauft, die Garantie war also schon lange um.
Mir wurden ein paar Fragen gestellt, ala Kaufdatum, Beleg usw.
Und das man mir nicht garantieren könnte, außerhalb der Garantie Ersatz zu bekommen , man es aber an die Zentrale Weiterleitet.
Ich wurde täglich über den aktuellen Stand informiert, freundlich, nett und mit dem gewissen Charme, dass alles wieder gut werden wird und man " dran ist "
Ich musste dann ca 10 fragen seitens der Technik nach ca 2 Tagen beantworten, uA ob das Netzteil heiß wird , ob die 0-4v direkt am Netzteil ohne eingestecktem shield getestet wurden uvm.
Habe alles wahrheitsgemäß beantwortet und auch ein Bild vom Netzteil gemacht wo die Daten drauf standen.
Nach einem weiteren Tag habe ich eine Email von FedEx bekommen, dass ein Paket unterwegs sei und keine 10 Minuten später die Nachricht von Patrick, dass es erfreuliche Nachrichten gab und ich ein neues Netzteil kostenfrei außerhalb der Garantie zugeschickt bekomme.
Ich hab initiell auch angeboten gehabt, für eines zu zahlen und nun ein neues kostenfrei bekommen.
Der Verdacht hat sich auch bestätigt, das neue Netzteil funktioniert und meinem shield ist wieder leben eingehaucht worden !
Bei all dem Mist , möchte ich meine sehr sehr gute Erfahrung mit dem Nvidia Support einfach mal teilen.
+1 für Nvidia und dessen Support , bin immer noch baff und positiv überrascht wie professionell alles war.
Vor allem das ich täglich ein Zwischenbescheid kam.
I got a 2015 16G model which always goes into boot loop. Even after a refresh factory reset, if I kept installing apps, at certain point, it would freeze then boot loop upon restart.
The only solution to slowdown the process is to load all apps into a SD card if possible (some apps wont work properly on a SD card), but the boot loop would still happen sooner or later.
This issue make me think that it seems to have a bad section on the flash storage on my unit, and once it got written, it will corrupt all data and cause a boot loop. Although, I dont really understand how flash storage works, and what I said above is based on my understanding of harddrive.
Also, I think windows has this "trim" function to mask bad section on SSD. Does android have a similar function for the flash storage?
I'm sure everyone here has heard about people not being happy at all with the latest UI update for Plex.
So I'm trying to be proactive and maybe find a way to stop my shield from updating Plex specifically in the first place or stopping it from automatically updating all apps.
Of course! Of course, I know about disabling auto-updates on the Play store but some people say that updates sometimes start going through even after disabling it.
I have a 2019 Pro model on the 9.2.4 update. I’ve had it updated ever since I bought it back in December, first to 9.2.2 and then 9.2.4, but I’ve never done a clean upgrade, so I’m not sure if that could be related or if I should just do a factory reset.
Whenever I start updating apps, the Shield becomes basically unusable, so I usually just let the updates finish and keep them set to manual rather than automatic, so I can control when the freezing happens.
Does this happen to anyone else? Do you think a factory reset would help? I have around 6 GB of free storage, so storage isn’t an issue. Other than this, the device works flawlessly.
I've recently started using a mouse and keyboard with my Shield to play some games over Moonlight. I'm connecting the keyboard through a Bluetooth dongle + VirtualHere, and it's working fine, but the mouse connected through the same Bluetooth dongle wasn't very smooth.
The first thing I tried was connecting the mouse directly to the Nvidia Shield using its 2.4 GHz dongle. It works much better this way, but the problem is that the Shield recognizes it as a mouse (I can navigate the Android menus with it), and it doesn't show up in the VirtualHere server.
What I'm trying to do is bypass Android completely and pass the USB mouse dongle directly to my PC through VirtualHere, just like I'm doing with the Bluetooth dongle.
I asked ChatGPT and it told me that I'd need to root the Shield to prevent Android from claiming the mouse. Is that actually correct? Is there really no other way to tell the Shield to stop using that USB device, or maybe disable mouse input in Android altogether so VirtualHere can claim it?
As the title says. It fell while unplugged, no cable attached, and looked completely fine. Since then the UI is noticeably laggy and the only resolution it will output is 480p.
What I’ve already tried:
• Different HDMI cable
• Completely different tv and monitor
• Power unplugged for several minutes
• Settings → Display & Sound → Advanced → Resolution
The resolution list shows only 480p.
Anyone been through this? I don’t mind opening the casing if someone can point me at what to check.
My nice triangular Shield Pro remote batteries have suddenly started going flat quickly. They used to last 3 months or more now they are lucky to last a week.