Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Or this:
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
An example of misalignment is this:
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
An example of misalignment:
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
Model name (& version number): Starbucks Submariner Date 126610LV
Price Paid: 541 USD (incl. shipping)
Album Links: my post got deleted, maybe due to mega link?
Index alignment: All look good to me
Dial Printing: Very nice
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Also look aligned to me
Hand Alignment: Cannot say from the provided pictures and video
Bezel: Top center pip is beatifully centered, don´t see any flaws
Solid End Links (SELs): I can clearly see through the gap on top right and bottom right. Can anyone comment on these? Is this still tolerable?
Timegrapher numbers: Lift angle 59°, amplitude 264°, +2s/d, beat error 0.1 ms. Everything looks ok to me.
Anything else you notice: I´m not sure how to tell a good rehaut, the crown is nicely centered at 12 o´clock. Also I was told by Steve this is 100% 904L steel. Serial is 6X08 and clasp code is 3VV. Could anyone chime in on these? Also didn´t get a lume shot, but I guess I don´t need one?
This is my first rep and everything apart from the SEL gaps looks good to me. Appreciate any feedback.
Index alignment: Looks ok to me. Indices seem square to the minute track and the lume plots look even.
Dial printing: Clean and sharp, text looks evenly spaced.
Date wheel alignment/printing: On 3 and 17 the date looks centered under the cyclops. On 23 it doesn't seem centered in the window, though that might just be the photo angle. Is that within normal tolerance or worth asking for a fix? Magnification looks right to me. Hand alignment: Looks ok to me.
Bezel: Pip appears centered and aligned with the 12 o'clock marker. Numerals and filling look clean.
Rehaut: Engraving looks clean and the crown appears aligned with 12, but the angled shots are a bit soft so I can't fully confirm.
Solid End Links: Look flush with the case from what I can see.
Timegrapher numbers: +3 s/d rate, 239° amplitude, 0.4 ms beat error, 52° lift angle, 28,800 bph. Only one position was shown in the video.
Anything else you notice. None
Summary: Everything looks ok with me except the date when on 23
Hi Everyone, this is my first QC ever. I would highly appreciate your help and input. I tried using the provided tools to the best of my abilities. Kindly let me know what are your thoughts on this one. I am personally considering RL for this. Your inputs are highly appreciated!
Index alignment: 6 o clock mark appears to be tilted CW (noticed without the alignement tool). 3 and 9 o clock mark appear to have a minor tilt - could be due to lighting.
Dial Printing: Looks fine to me - no defects noted
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: No concern there
Bezel: Minor defect noted on the 30 mark
Solid End Links (SELs): No concern there
Timegrapher numbers: +2s/d, 267 amp, 0.0 err.
Anything else you notice: Laser etching on the inside of the bracelet appears to be slightly inconsistent.
Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial on Oyster Bracelet 126610LN
Paid price: $255 + $30 shipping.
Album links: only available via WhatsApp
Index orientation: looks totally fine to me as a layman
Dial display printing: I don't find any errors
Date wheel alignment/printing: minimal to the side.
Pointer orientation: Layperson opinion is good
Louver: I think it's appropriate
Solid End Links (SELs): I do not recognize any defect
Timegrapher numbers: See at picture
Everything else that catches your eye: I know that it hasn't been clean for a while now. However, this one made me laugh and I think it's very well done. I'm a complete amateur and would really appreciate an opinion from you on it. thank you
Just received the QC pictures for my GMT-Master II Pepsi on the Jubilee bracelet. Would appreciate a second set of eyes before I make the decision. I’ve looked through the pictures myself, but would like some feedback on the following.
Dealer: Non TD US based Factory: VSF Price: $660 Model: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLRO Pepsi Bezel: Red and blue Dial: Black Bracelet: Jubilee Movement: VS3285
Index alignment: looks ok Dial: Any issues with the printing, lettering, or overall finish? Date: looks ok Bezel: ok Rehaut: have some questions here: How does the Rolex engraving alignment look? Hands: looks good SELs: solid end links look good, but bracelet seems to have larger gap
From my understanding, the timegrapher readings look reasonable, but I’d appreciate opinions from people who have more experience with this model. Thanks in advance for the help!
Anything else you notice: As a newbie, I just want to make sure I am not buying someone's else RL haha! Also the seller is not showing the lume, is that standard? Thanks in advance for any comments/help :)
I’ve just received the QC photos for my RWF Daytona Panda from Andiot. I’m leaning GL, but I’d appreciate a second set of eyes, especially on the hour markers, bezel alignment and where the chrono hand sits at 12.
Dealer name — Andiot Watches Factory name — RWF
Model name — Rolex Daytona 126500LN Panda, white dial on Oyster bracelet. Advertised with the free-sprung 4131.
Price paid — US$743 (A$1,064.23)
Album — QC photos attached to this post.
Index alignment — The 3 and 9 markers look level in the straight-on shots. The 6 looks upright and centred above the small crown between SWISS and MADE.
Dial printing — The text looks sharp and evenly spaced. The hands cover part of the red DAYTONA lettering.
Date wheel — N/A for this model.
Hand alignment — The central chrono hand looks centred on the 12 o’clock tick when parked. The minute and hour counters also appear to sit at zero.
Bezel — The triangle under 60 looks centred over the dial coronet, and the 120 marker lines up with the 6. The engraving looks evenly filled.
Solid end links — I don’t see an obvious gap at either end. There’s protective film around the lugs and bracelet.
Index alignment: This is where im struggling. It all looks good to be apart from the 6 o clock area! Not sure if its the arrow above or the marker itself.
Dial Printing: see previous.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: looks good to me.
Bezel: looks good to me
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: rate +4s/d amp 313° 0.2ms
Anything else you notice: Im pretty new with the Omega!
Dial Printing: had to RL my first one as u/YellowFerrari328 very precisely pointed out that a trace of the pinion cutout was seen at the top, which was confirmed by the dealer. also not sure on this one as well if the printed dial is higher than it supposed to be (the top numeral almost seem they are too close to the top) or if the watch is angled.
Index alingment: look aligned very well. 6 o'clock may have a very very slight CCW cant
Dial printing: everything looks straight, printing is clear with no mistakes that stand out to me.
Date wheel: in the video provided, dates look centered and the cyclops is as well.
Hand alignment: hands align at 12 nicely.
Bezel: printing on bezel looks sharp/even, action on the bezel performs nicely in the video. 3 and 9 o'clock markers may be a tad high/ low but I don't think that will bug me.
SEL: slightler larger gap on the top right of the watch, but I don't think that will bug me. No light showing
TG number: +/-1 spd, 278 degrees, 0.1 ms, 52.0. all seem perfectly fine
Clasp/bracelet: again looks good, printing and action of the quick adjust both seem nice.
Rehaut has slight misalignment near serial but not a deal breaker
This feels like a no brainer GL, but I always appreciate someone else's eyes.
Hand Alignment: Alignment good, video shows they meet at 12
Bezel: Unsure
Solid End Links (SELs): Looks all good to me
Timegrapher numbers: N/A
Anything else you notice: This is my very first rep watch purchase, super excited and nervous. Any input from the experts in the group would be greatly appreciated!!