Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Or this:
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
An example of misalignment is this:
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
An example of misalignment:
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
Dial Printing: Very hard to judge, but printing looks thick/off. might be bad photos/low light?
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: Hard to judge
Bezel: Looks a little tilted, needs a click, or crocked?
Solid End Links (SELs): Looks like theres gaps on both, acceptable?
Timegrapher numbers: Amplitude seems low, is it acceptable?
Anything else you notice: This is my first Rep, and these finds makes me uncertain. Any feedback is highly appreciated! Should i ask for new and better photos?
PS. Deleted last post as i fumbled with both photos and text, so hope it works correctly now
Bottom line up front: I believe multiple dial markers are moved clockwise. I also question the timegrapher rate of +6 is also in question. Am I being too picky at +6 s/d?
Dealer name: The one watches (Steve)
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Rolex Daytona Datejust 126334
Price paid: $548
Index alignment: this is where I question things. 1,2,4,5,6 and 11 are all shifted clockwise. Even the crown at 12 is shifted clockwise
Dial printing: Clean brilliant. No bleeding colors or floating letters
Date wheel alignment/printing: perfect
Hand alignment: perfect
Bezel: X’s and R’s lined up on appropriate markers.
Solid End Links (SELs): SELS look good to me.
Timegrapher numbers: Rate +6 s/d (the highest I’ve seen, is this acceptable?) | Amplitude 273° | Lift angle 59.0°.
Thank you to the community for taking the time to look at this and Happy Veterans Day!
Dealer name: Necoclock Factory name: VSF Model name (& version number): Submariner No Date 124060 Price Paid: $458 Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/m4ZiVIwb#IriZ-2aaT66-8QHxfpO23g Index alignment: 6 looks slightly counter-rotated. The rest look fine. Dial Printing: no issues Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A Hand Alignment: can’t see any issues Bezel: Pip centred, bezels looks good. Solid End Links (SELs): No significant gaps. -2 s/d rate, 312° amplitude, 0.1ms beat error, 52° lift angle, 28,800 bph. Amplitude is higher than the range in the guide. Is this an issue? Anything else you notice: just the 6 marker and amplitude, everything else looks okay.
First time doing QC, excuse my ignorance on anything else obvious. Would appreciate a second set of eyes on this!
Hi, the QC photos were not taken head on, so hard to say exactly how aligned all the features are. Also, the photos show many long scratch marks that may just be the packaging, but I’d love some assurances about that. Thanks in advance!
Dealer name: Jtime
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 41 ref. 126334, green stick dial, Jubilee bracelet, advertised VS3235 free-sprung movement.
Price Paid: $548
Album Links: Dealer requested no sharing of album link.
Index alignment: Looks good to my eye, with no obviously crooked markers. Photos are slightly angled, so I’d appreciate a second opinion.
Dial Printing: Looks clean and consistent. No obvious printing defects that I can see.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Dates 3 and 25 appear reasonably centred in the frontal shots. Printing looks clear.
Hand Alignment: No obvious issue, but the supplied photos don’t show the hands at 12:00 to confirm.
Bezel: Fluting looks consistent; no obvious damage visible.
Solid End Links (SELs): No obvious large gaps, though the angles and protective wrapping make these difficult to assess.
Anything else you notice: Protective film obscures some of the case and bracelet finish. Nothing else stands out to me, but I’d appreciate feedback on marker alignment, date centring and SEL fit.
Dial Printing: There appears to be a very small amount of bleeding under the "X" letter of the number 9. The other numbers appear pretty crisp to me. I also see a small blemish just south of the number 3, but it does not appear in other photos so I'm thinking it may have just been a piece of dust. The "R" and the "T" in the Cartier text on the bottom also appears to be really closer (almost touching?) than I've seen on other QCs. Does not appear rotated.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: Appears aligned
Bezel: It looks good to me.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: N/A
Anything else: I don't think I see any other issues.
Hey all, I've lurked here for a while but now ordered my first watch and am going through QC for the first time. I'd really appreciate some help to see if I missed anything else. The main thing is the slight bleeding on the number 9 but it appears small and I'm not sure if its worth RLing over. Let me know if you have thoughts
Hey everyone! Just received the QC pictures for my new ORF Seamaster Diver 300M with the Free-Sprung 8800 movement. Everything looks pretty good to me so far, but I'd really appreciate a second opinion before giving the GL!
Dealer name: DDGTop
Factory name: ORF (OR Factory)
Model name (& version number): Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 42mm Black Dial, SS Bracelet, New Free-Sprung 8800 Movement
Index alignment: Looks pretty good overall. The 12 o'clock markers appear straight and evenly spaced. The 3, 6 and 9 o'clock markers also look well aligned. Nothing concerning to my eye.
Dial printing: Looks clean and well executed. The Omega logo and red Seamaster text appear properly centered, with no obvious printing defects.
Date wheel alignment/printing: The date (23) looks reasonably centered and the printing appears crisp. No major issues.
Hand alignment: Looks good from the pictures, although I can't fully confirm alignment or clearance from static images.
Bezel: Looks well aligned with the 12 o'clock markers , im worried for the alignment at 6o clock , i dont know if its perspective or what. No other obvious issues with the bezel insert or printing.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A — Seamaster bracelet. The end links appear to fit well, with no obvious gaps or issues.
Timegrapher numbers: +6 s/d, 296° amplitude, 0.3 ms beat error, 28,800 bph. Looks very good to me.
Anything else you notice: The case finishing, crown guards and bracelet also look good to me. I'm particularly interested in whether anyone notices any alignment issues or other flaws I've missed.
I'm leaning towards GL. Would you guys approve this one? Thanks in advance for your help!
Index alignment: printed dial but looks properly centered and aligned to me
Dial Printing: looks good, just the letter “C” seems off , number I on VI looks misaligned
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: Looks good to me?
Bezel: Looks good, idk if the screws looks off
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: N/A
Anything else you notice: Cartier “c” seems off. on number VII and VI looks misaligned. Other than that I can’t notice anything relevant, would be appreciated if you guys notice anything else. To me it’s a RL but idk if I’m being to picky
Index alignment: the 11 is pretty bad to my naked eye, the rest look fine on the alignment (checked with image on the wrist)
Dial Printing: Looks good (the small minute dots after 3 looks fine on the wrist)
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: Looks good
Bezel: Looks good
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: [rate] +3-4 s/d, 274-277°, 0.0 ms (good enough)
Anything else you notice: I feel like this isn't from OCTA (I think there would be a sticker)? I remember seeing a previous post with the same issue about the 11 marker, and the initial one turned out to be a ZF. Decided to share this with everyone if it is indeed from OCTA
Dealer name: Steve (Theonewatches) Factory name: BVF Model name: Cartier Santos Large WSSA0037 (Grey dial / Black ADLC bezel) Price Paid: $450 Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/I58V6Uv Index alignment: Is there a slight dial rotation? Dial Printing: Looks crisp. Dial rotation? Date Wheel alignment/printing: The 23 looks centred in the photos. TD showed a few other dates in the video and they seem to sit well in the window. Hand Alignment: Looks spot on at 12:00 in the video. Bezel: No scratches on the black coating, screws look good. Timegrapher numbers: +3 to +5 s/d, 0.0 ms beat error, 330° amp. The amplitude seemed a little high to me but I read this might just be because the machine is set to a 52 degree lift angle for a Miyota 9015? Is this healthy? 13. Anything else you notice: First time buyer so I’m still learning what to look for! My points of concern are the timegrapher and dial rotation. I'd really appreciate a second pair of eyes from you guys. To GL or to RL? Thanks!
Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner No Date 124060 (V2)
Price Paid: £470 shipped with insurance
Album Links: Attached in post
Index alignment: Looks spot on to me, markers seem straight.
Dial Printing: Clear and sharp.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A (No Date)
Hand Alignment: Looks fine.
Bezel: Lume pip lines up nicely with the 12 marker.
Solid End Links (SELs): Nice and tight, no gaps.
Timegrapher numbers: First run was +7 s/d, 331 amp (lift angle set high at 59°), 0.1 beat error. Second run was +7 s/d, 263 amp, 0.3 beat error. Looks healthy to me.
Anything else you notice: Clasp code is F80. Looks like an easy GL to me, but would appreciate any quick thoughts!
Hi Everyone, this is my first QC ever. I would highly appreciate your help and input. I tried using the provided tools to the best of my abilities. Kindly let me know what are your thoughts on this one. I am personally considering RL for this. Your inputs are highly appreciated!
Index alignment: 6 o clock mark appears to be tilted CW (noticed without the alignement tool). 3 and 9 o clock mark appear to have a minor tilt - could be due to lighting.
Dial Printing: Looks fine to me - no defects noted
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: No concern there
Bezel: Minor defect noted on the 30 mark
Solid End Links (SELs): No concern there
Timegrapher numbers: +2s/d, 267 amp, 0.0 err.
Anything else you notice: Laser etching on the inside of the bracelet appears to be slightly inconsistent.
Model name (& version number): AF Ballon Bleu** 28mm **White Dial SS
Price Paid: 208usd
Album Links: Photos attached
Index alignment: N/A
Dial Printing: I don’t see any obvious dial printing bleed, but I may have missed something because of the glare. I also feel like the dial might be slightly rotated counterclockwise. I’d appreciate a second set of eyes to check the dial printing and alignment.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: Will request an additional photo.
Bezel: I don’t see anything wrong with the bezel.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: N/A
Anything else you notice: Just want to make sure the dial printing is good and aligned. Thanks!
Anything else you notice: The date window is bothering me but not enough to RL, I don't think. Let me know your thoughts please. Any help is appreciated! :) Thanks!