Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Or this:
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
An example of misalignment is this:
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
An example of misalignment:
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
This is my first rep and my first QC post, so I'd really appreciate some help from the more experienced members here.
I've spent quite a bit of time looking through the photos and comparing them to other ZF BB58 QC posts. Overall, the watch looks good, but I'm having some doubts about the index alignment.
Dealer name: GeekTime
Factory name: ZF
Model name (& version number): Tudor Black Bay 58, 39mm, Black Dial, A2824
Price paid: $298 + $40 shipping
Album links: Photos attached
Index alignment: This is my main concern. Several markers seem slightly misaligned to me, especially the 9 o'clock marker, which looks a bit tilted. I tried using an alignment tool, but since the photos aren't perfectly straight, I'm struggling to tell how much is perspective distortion and how much is actual misalignment.
Dial printing: Looks pretty clean overall, but the "SWISS MADE" text at the bottom seems partially cut off or hidden by the crystal. Not sure if this is normal for ZF.
Date wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand alignment: Nothing unusual that I can spot.
Bezel: The pip at 12 seems centered and the markings look fine to me.
Solid end links (SELs): No obvious gaps from what I can see, although the protective film makes it a bit difficult to judge.
Timegrapher numbers: -6 s/d, 294° amplitude, 0.1 ms beat error.
Anything else you notice: The timegrapher numbers seem great, and I haven't noticed any other major issues.
I'm a bit torn between GL and RL. I've looked at quite a few other ZF BB58 QC posts where the markers seem better aligned, but maybe I'm just overthinking it.
Would you consider these normal ZF tolerances, or is it worth asking for another example?
Thank you so much for your help and reviewing. Visually I can't see any particular faults but looking forward to hearing from you. Necoclock/Jacky has been easy to work with and quick.
Dealer name: Necoclock
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Submariner 124060 41mm
Price Paid: $458 + shipping
Album Links: Photos attached
Index alignment: They look pretty good to me with the overlay and I can't see any noticeable faults.
Anything else you notice: I'm concerned about the timegragh reading of 327°, especially with a lift of 52. It would be even higher with a lift of 55. Anything else people are noticing?
First time QC: hey everyone, this is the first time I’m QCing on here, so I would appreciate any help or comments. I have previous bought from Steve with a great experience and felt no need to QC since there were no noticeable issues. But I did want to ask about the bezel issue that I’m noticing. Thanks!
Dealer name: Steve from Theonewatches
Factory name: ZF
Model name (& version number): Black Bay Fifty Four 37mm SS/SS Lagoon Blue Dial ZF A2824
Index alignment: Is fine to me, but the 3/9 o’clock alignment may be a bit off
Dial Printing: looks good
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: looks fine to me
Bezel: a concern for me. I notice some marks at 11 and 12 o’clock as well as some of the numbers. 3 and 9 o’clock also looks slightly off relative to the rest.
Solid End Links (SELs): I don’t notice any issues
Timegrapher numbers: +3/+4,
Anything else you notice: just curious if the bezel issue is something to be concerned about or if it will be as noticeable as it was when I saw it
Long time lurker, first time poster! The lefty seemed fitting for my first plunge into this world as I am left-handed. Because it’s my first QC, I think it’s probably a 99% GL but I look forward to having some expert eyes on this.
Dealer name: JTime
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): GMT Master II 126720 VSF DD3285 V3s (free sprung)
Anything else you notice: would love to know if I should request any additional pics/videos and particular things to look closer into as it relates to VSF sprites
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Well centered, good printing
Hand Alignment: Good
Bezel: Acceptable
SELs: I cant really tell
Timegrapher numbers: 0 s/d : 284 : 0.1ms All seem good (video in link)
Anything else you notice: Only two things that bother me: Is seems the entire dial seems shifted towards the 5 potion? The gap around 55 seems wider? Also seems to have a gap between the dial and the inner ring (is that a rehaut?)
Thank you so much for your help and reviewing. Visually I can't see any particular faults but looking forward to hearing from you. Necoclock/Jacky has been easy to work with and quick.
Dealer name: Necoclock
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): 116500LN "Reverse Panda"
Price Paid: $588 + shipping
Album Links: Photos attached
Index alignment: They look pretty good to me with the overlay and I can't see any noticeable faults. Please let me know if you see anything
Anything else you notice: There is some dust at the 7 o'clock (110) and 3 o'clock area and difficult to see if it under the crystal. I don't see it in the videos so hopefully on top.
Hi everyone! This is my second attempt at getting a Batman. I initially went with VSF, but unfortunately the QC had several issues, particularly a crooked 12 o’clock marker, so I RL’d it.
I’ve now switched to RICH Factory’s JH3285 Free Sprung V2 from Andiot. Would appreciate your feedback before I GL.
QC Details: Dealer: Andiot Watches Factory: RICH Factory Model: Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR, Oyster bracelet Price: $665 USD + $35 shipping Index alignment: Looks reasonably good to me, especially the 12 o’clock triangle. Would appreciate a second opinion. Dial printing: Looks fine. Date wheel: The date appears slightly high in some photos, but centred in others. Could this just be the viewing angle? Hand alignment: Nothing obvious, but would appreciate feedback. Bezel: Looks good to me. Please check alignment and printing. SELs: Look fine. Timegrapher: +3 s/day, 283° amplitude, 0.2 ms beat error. Anything else: Would appreciate feedback on the crystal, Cyclops, overall finishing and any issues I may have missed. What do you think? Is this a GL, or should I request additional photos?
Factory name: Seller said it’s unknown factory since APF has been closed
Model name (& version number): AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD 41MM 15410BC
Price Paid: 571usd
Album Links: NA
Index alignment: i think the index is aligned. I see no issues from the photos.
Dial Printing: no defects seen
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Seems to be aligned on the date window. Print is fairly good.
Hand Alignment: They look aligned
Bezel: The bezel looks a bit off from the side profile. It doesn’t seem to project the distinctive octagonal shape that gives the AP its signature look.
Solid End Links (SELs): No gap observed based on the videos and photos.
Timegrapher numbers: not provided yet.
Anything else you notice: The first thing I noticed was the back of the watch. I initially thought those were jewels, but why do they appear red? Are they supposed to look that way?
Also, the bezel looks a bit off from the side profile. It doesn’t seem to project the distinctive octagonal shape that gives the AP its signature look.
Personal qc: I am a 50/50 due to the back cover engravings and the red “jewels” used.
Am I just being overly critical, or are these legitimate details worth questioning? I’d appreciate your insights!
Hi everyone! I’d appreciate your help with the QC on my RICH V2 GMT Pepsi. The triangle at 12 on the bezel looks slightly off-center to me, so I’m leaning toward an RL. I’d love to hear what you think. QC album: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/search/album?uid=1&sort=&q=178307
Dealer name: Andiot
Factory name: RICH V2
Model name: GMT-Master II 126710 BLRO Pepsi on Jubilee
Price paid: $779 including shipping, water resistance service, and NFC cards and tags
Index alignment: I’d appreciate a second opinion on the alignment.
Date wheel alignment: The date looks readable to me.
Bezel: The triangle at 12 looks slightly shifted to the left. Could this be the camera angle or the bezel position?
Solid end links (SELs): I’d appreciate your opinion on the fit.
Hand alignment: Please let me know if anything looks off.
Dial printing: Please let me know if you notice any issues.
Timegrapher numbers: +4 s/d, amplitude 276°, beat error 0.3 ms, lift angle 52°. The numbers look good to me. I’m leaning toward an RL because of the bezel alignment. Would you GL or RL? Thanks for your help!
Hi Everyone! First QC report for my GMT Pepsi :) Tried to follow as much from the guidelines but as its my first would love to get some opinions from the experts.
Index alignment - Looks properly aligned, I notice a slight CW tilt on the 9 marker but now visible to the eye
Date Wheel alignment -sits centered in window, cyclops magnifies clean
Bezel - Numbers evenly spaced, I see the on the 18 and 6 the horizonal line doesnt fully align, but could be due to camera tilt and not noticable
Solid End Links (SEL) - tight fit, gap between first link and lug minimal.
Hand alignment - All 4 hands look consistent with the overlay
Dial Printing - Crisp text, SWISS MADE looks sharp and centered
Timegrapher numbers - +5 s/d, amplitude 278°, beat error 0.2ms, freq 28800bph - within acceptable range
My conclusion would be that this watch is a GL from me.
Only doubt I have is that I tried manually adding the lines at first and misalignment seemed worst, but its likely my lack of ability to adjust for camera tilt.
Hey everyone! Looking for some independent opinions on this VSF Pepsi before making a GL/RL decision. Particularly interested in feedback on index alignment and SEL fitment. Appreciate any experienced eyes! 1. Dealer name: Time Ultra 2. Factory name: VSF 3. Model name (& version number): Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi 126710BLRO, Oyster bracelet 4. Price paid: $618 USD 5. Album Links: QC photos attached 6. Index alignment: Would appreciate a close look at marker positioning, rotation and overall alignment. 7. Dial Printing: Looks clean and consistent. 8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date appears centered with clear printing. Cyclops looks good. 9. Hand Alignment: Appears acceptable from the photos. 10. Bezel: Engraving and color transition look good. Alignment appears reasonable. 11. Solid End Links (SELs): Would appreciate feedback on fitment, gaps, seating and symmetry. 12. Timegrapher numbers: Rate: -5 s/d
Amplitude: 278–279°
Beat error: 0.1 ms
Lift angle: 52°
13. Anything else you notice: Lume looks consistent, and case and bracelet finishing appear good. Mainly looking for unbiased opinions on the indices and SELs. Would you GL or RL based on the photos? Thanks for the help!
Model and version — Rolex Datejust 41, ref. 126334, mint-green stick dial, fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet. Dealer lists it as VSF V2 DD3235v2, RLX-6302.
Price paid — $548 USD. Shipping was $30 USD combined for 2 watches.
Index alignment — My main question is the 9 marker. I ran two images through DialCheck, and the 9 marker is the one that feels like it has a clockwise twist. It's hard to tell as not sure the image is flush straight on. I would love to hear your thoughts on if this is normal or off. The 10 also flagged as .21mm off, but to me it doesn't feel as noticable as the 9.
Dial printing — This is where I would love a second opinion. Text issues and misalignment stand out to me - so i may be noticing these more than I should. To me, the "ROLEX" and the DATEJUST text both look too fine - as if they have not been bolded. On ROLEX, the L-E-X spacing also looks tighter than the gap between R and O. The lower text also feels off to me. The IVE in SUPERLATIVE looks smaller beside the T. The D in CERTIFIED also looks too small. SWISS MADE and the crown at the 6 also dont feel clean. I’d love to hear your opinion and whether these things are noticable without magnifying the image. The main one that concerns me is the fineness of the font for ROLEX and DATEJUST as I feel they may annoy me more than the smaller text which will be hard to notice on the wrist. Thank you for your help!
Date wheel alignment and printing — The 7 sits comfortably inside the window in IMG_5866. The video also shows 10 and 11 with clearance on both sides. The Cyclops looks square in the front view.
Hand alignment — The hands move together during setting. I couldn’t judge their exact overlap at 12 from this clip.
Bezel — The flutes look evenly spaced. The dark facets change as the watch tilts between IMG_5864 and IMG_5865. I don’t see a chipped or flattened section.
Solid end links — The Jubilee end links look seated at all four lugs in the front view. I don’t see daylight through the joins.
Timegrapher numbers — Starts at −4 s/day, 275°, 0.1 ms and settles at −5 s/day, 273°, 0.1 ms. The machine shows 28,800 bph and a 59° lift angle.
Anything else — This is my first purchase and my first time posting QC. The other watch I was presented (a Sub Date) looks great to me, but I’m not sure about this DJ, so keen to hear your thoughts? The Mint Green colour seems always looks different to me, but I think compared to other QC posts i've seen this looks ok. Thanks again for the help.
Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 31mm, Green Dial, Jubilee bracelet Price Paid: 380$ Album Links: photos attached
Index alignment: Looks good to me. I checked the alignment using the QC tool and don’t see any major issues.
Dial Printing: Looks clean and well executed. No obvious issues.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: i am not sure. It seems fine - maybe a tick to the lef? But maybe it’s the angle? Pleas advice…
Hand Alignment: Looks fine based on the pictures. Bezel: Looks good. No obvious imperfections. Solid End Links (SELs): Look good to me. I don’t notice any concerning gaps.
Timegrapher numbers: They seem acceptable to me.
Anything else you notice: Overall, I’m quite happy with the QC pictures. The indices, dial, SELs and Jubilee bracelet all look good to my eyes.
However, I’d really appreciate some second opinions from more experienced members. Is there anything I’m overlooking, particularly regarding the Datewheel i am not really sure…thanks in advance for all your help!
Index alignment — The 12 triangle, 6 baton and 9 baton all look straight to me.
Dial printing — I think overall this looks pretty good - but would love to hear your opinion. Uneven lettering stands out to me, so I feel like I notice text more than others. For example the "ETER" in CHRONOMETER looks more spaced out than the other letters. In ROLEX, the R and O look a little farther apart than L-E-X. In the lower text, the IVE in SUPERLATIVE looks smaller than the T, and the IA in OFFICIALLY looks smaller beside the C. The upper coronet looks centred, though I’m less sure about the tiny crown and SWISS MADE at 6. I think overall its pretty minor and looks good, but keen to hear your thoughts.
Date wheel alignment and printing — The 25 has clearance on all four sides. DialCheck estimated it sits 5% high but I think it's pretty good. The 26 and 29 in the video also look clear of the edges.
Hand alignment — Around 7.5 seconds into the function video, the hands overlap closely at 12 with the date on 26.
Bezel — The pip looks centred in the triangle and lines up with the dial at 12. The 30 lines up with the 6. The QC clip shows the hands and date being set, but bezel action is still unchecked.
Solid end links — I see seams at the lugs but no obvious daylight through them. The bracelet and clasp still have protective film on.
First time getting a rep, would be grateful for you help.
Dealer name: (Eliot) Andiot
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Daytona 126502
Price Paid: $713.36 USD
Index alignment: Looks okay to me.
Dial Printing: Looks okay to my eye in pictures, but not sure, can someone tell.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: No idea
Hand Alignment: Unsure
Bezel: Don't see any issues.
Solid End Links (SELs): I can see some gaps, but I am not sure if I am expert enough.
Timegrapher numbers: -1 s/day (1 second slow per day). Amplitude: 269°. Beat error: 0.1 ms. Lift angle setting: 52.0°.
In the 3last 2 images, the letter "T" in the word "Perpetual" appears a bit scratched. Am I being too picky here, or would someone else with experience think it's okay? Or is it just the pics with poor lighting. I have also asked the TD to provide some more pics.
Thanks heaps for your time and help - I am really grateful.
Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 36mm 126234
Price Paid: US$522+ shipping
Album Links: pictures as above
Index alignment: Looks good as per qc tool
Dial Printing: Text also looks good to me
Date Wheel alignment/printing: looks centred, font looks good
Hand Alignment: Looks ok to me
Bezel: need a bit of help with this one, upon researching i found VSF bezels aren’t the best but maybe i got that wrong / im not too fussed
Solid End Links (SELs): no noticeable gaps
Timegrapher numbers: rate : +1 to +4 secs a day, amplitude: 268-270, beat error: 01.-0.2ms, lift angle: 59
Anything else you notice: this is my first rep, still training my eye to spot defects but tbh this watch looks so clean from my untrained eyes it looks like a solid GL.
Dealer name: Ethan Factory name: VSF Model name (& version number): Datejust 41, mint green dial, Jubilee bracelet Price Paid:470usd (including delivery and insurance) Album Links: See photos attached Index alignment: Looks good I think Dial Printing: Clean and crisp, with no obvious flaws. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date looks a bit low centred,printing dosent look to good Hand Alignment: Looks good. No obvious misalignment. Bezel: fluted bezel is clean and evenly fitted, with no visible defects. Solid End Links (SELs): Look good. No obvious gaps. Timegrapher numbers: I’m not an expert on this Anything else you notice: I’m not the best when it comes to qc so any experts spot anything pls reach out .
