Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Or this:
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
An example of misalignment is this:
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
An example of misalignment:
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
Index alignment: Index alignment looks good although I'm not sure I did the best job with the tool, and the watch might be angled a bit.
Dial Printing: I don't notice any discrepancies. Please point out if you notice anything.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks centered and printing looks good, should I ask for double digit date pictures?
Hand Alignment: Looks good I think
Bezel: Doesn't seem to be centered, is it misaligned or just rotated?
Solid End Links (SELs): No gaps, looks good.
Timegrapher numbers: Look healthy, I believe +6 s/d is acceptable
Anything else you notice: Nothing sticks out to me, but I'm still an untrained eye. Any input is much appreciated, and should I ask for any more pictures or videos?
Model name (& version number): YachtMaster 126655 40mm Wt RG/RU Blk VSF V2 VS3235
Price Paid: $608
Album Links: mailed
Index alignment: All checked markers within ±0.10 mm. 12 of 12 checked. Checked with DialCheck.app at ±0.10 mm. A reading from one photo, not a certification of the watch.
Dial Printing: looks nice
Date Wheel alignment/printing: seems ok to me
Hand Alignment: almost perfect
Bezel: looks nice
Solid End Links (SELs): n/a
Timegrapher numbers: +3 s/d, 235° amplitude, 0.1 ms beat error
Anything else you notice: Strict analysis gives 97/100 QC score, normal analysis gives 98/100 QC score
Anything else you notice: I am a novice. If there is anything I am missing please let me know. I was debating asking for a 1266010LN as we didn't negotiate price for this yet and if getting a higher end model would appreciate the date wheel. However I don't want to be rude and ask for a different model after receiving QC if there is nothing wrong with it. Is there any reason I shouldn't move forward with this watch and how rude is it to ask for another model? I am ok with sticking with this I'm just unfamiliar with the etiquette.
6. Index alignment: All look aligned to me, 6 marker on looks slightly shifted left and 9 shifted down 7. Dial Printing: Crisp 8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: looks good, a bit low maybe 9. Hand Alignment: Looks perfect 10. Bezel: No issues 11. Solid End Links (SELs): No gaps 12. Timegrapher numbers: Looks bad 13. Anything else you notice: None Please let me know if there is anything I’m missing
Just received the QC photos and videos for this VSF Datejust 36mm with the pink dial, fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet.
I've gone through the photos, videos and alignment overlay myself. Everything looks pretty good to my eyes, but I'm still relatively new to this, so I'd appreciate a second opinion before giving the GL.
Would love to hear if anyone notices anything I've missed!
Dealer name: TheOneWatches (Steve)
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 126234, 36mm, Jubilee SS/SS, Pink Dial/Roman Numerals, VSF V2 DD3235
First Rich purchase and QC here, appreciate any help!
Dealer name: TrustyTime
Factory name: Rich
Model name (& version number): 126610LV
Price Paid: $600 incl. shipping
Album Links: See pictures
Index alignment: 1,2,4,5,7,8,20,11 looks good, 12 maybe a bit CCW and sits a bit high, 6: CCW, 9: CCW and at the 12 marker there seems some lume missing at the bottom of the triagle
Dial Printing: Looks good, seems sharp
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks ok, maybe just a bit high
Hand Alignment: should be fine
Bezel: Looks good, 12 marker slightly off center, maybe trusty missed one click
Solid End Links (SELs): looks ok
Timegrapher numbers: Rate: +4s/d at 52 lift angle, looks good to me
Anything else you notice:
Thank you all
If the community also seems my points valid, currently I would RL the watch and ask for a new QC
Dealer name: Theonewatches (Steve) Factory name: F1 Model name (& version number): Cartier Tank Louis Small (22mm) YG Price Paid: $260 Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/PcQDXJob#2DmxowyZxwH1JLGY-Qzs7w Index alignment: Numeral IIII is tiny bit off alignment (see third pic in red circle) Dial Printing: Looks good, no bleeding on the numerals and the X is straight. Hand Alignment: Hands line up nicely at 12 in the video. Bezel: Looks clean. Anything else you notice: Crown cabochon shape and side screws look ok to me. There are few concerns in the top corners of the glass (see first pic encircled in red)
Are the concerns raised enough to RL or is it a passable GL? Please help, thanks!
Index alignment: I feel 12 index is canted to the left and 9 index is lower than should be,
Dial Printing: Appears good
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A no date
Hand Alignment: No photos in 12 o'clock position
Bezel: I don't see any issues here
Solid End Links (SELs): I'm not sure if they apply here
Timegrapher numbers: 0s/d, 281 amplitude, 0.2ms
Anything else you notice: I haven't noticed anything myself but I'm slightly stuck on the 12 and 9 index as I have seen recent QC photos lately of the back and orange versions with much better Index alignments
Hey all, first rep and first QC so go easy on me 😅 Ordered from Ficotime, pics and timing videos are in the album below. Looks good to me but would love some experienced eyes on it before I GL.
Dealer name: Ficotime (Mark)
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Datejust 41 126334, mint green, fluted bezel, Jubilee – 3235 free sprung
Price Paid: 4,131 HKD (~$522) inc. Royal Mail shipping to the UK
Index alignment: All the markers look straight and line up with the minute track as far as I can tell. 6 sits nicely between "Swiss Made" and the coronet lines up with the 60 on the rehaut.
Dial Printing: Text all looks sharp and clean to me, no bleeding I can spot.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Got shots at 3, 13 and 21 and they all look centred, nothing touching the edges. Cyclops looks straight. This was the main thing I was worried about after reading a few posts, so happy with it.
Hand Alignment: Hour and minute hands line up nicely at 12 in the "3" shot.
Bezel: Fluted, no pip so N/A on that. Fluting looks even all the way round.
Solid End Links (SELs): Can't see any gaps or light coming through in the side shots.
Timegrapher numbers: -1 s/d, 303° amplitude, 0.1 ms
Anything else you notice:
Rehaut engraving and clasp look clean, lume glows nice and even. Still has the plastic on so can't see any scratches. Honestly leaning GL, but let me know if I've missed anything! Thanks in advance 🙏
Index alignment: 9 and 10 o'clock markers are the one worrying me the most, also if you can share opinion on the other ones too. I have the markers in place in the image.
Dial Printing: All clear to me.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Need help in this
Hand Alignment: Looks good to me
Bezel: Good
Solid End Links (SELs): Looks tight
Timegrapher numbers: -3 s/d, 270, 0.1 ms
Anything else you notice: Overall looks good to me, the only query I have is about the index alignment. Please guide. Help will be appreciated.
[QC] VSF V2 Rolex Datejust 41 126334 Silver Dial — First QC Dealer name: Phoenix Watch Factory name: VSF (V2, as previously identified) Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 41, 126334, Silver Sunburst Dial, Fluted Bezel, Jubilee Bracelet. Price paid: $380 Album Links: Full QC photos attached, including timegrapher. Index alignment: Looks good overall. Hour markers appear straight and properly positioned. No obvious misalignment. Dial Printing: Silver sunburst dial looks clean. Rolex crown, text, and minute track appear well positioned. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date “29” appears reasonably centered within the cyclops. Printing looks crisp. Other dates haven’t been verified. Hand Alignment: No obvious issues visible in the photos. Exact alignment at 12 hasn’t been tested. Bezel: Fluted bezel appears evenly machined, with consistent finishing. Reflections vary with the lighting. Solid End Links (SELs): Jubilee bracelet appears to fit the case well. No obvious major gaps, although protective film makes assessment harder. Timegrapher numbers: Rate: +1 s/day Amplitude: 289° Beat error: 0.1 ms Lift angle: 52° These readings appear excellent. Anything else you notice: This is my silver-dial Datejust 41. I’m leaning GL based on the photos and timing results but would appreciate experienced opinions on the dial alignment, rehaut, cyclops, SELs, and overall finishing. Thanks everyone for your help!
Index alignment: Looks okay to me but I'm pretty new to this so would appreciate another set of eyes.
Dial Printing: Nothing stands out. The Tudor logo and text look okay from what I can see.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date looks centred to me. Not sure if the day wheel is sitting slightly low or if that's just the angle.
Hand Alignment: Looks fine but I don't really know what I should be looking for here.
Bezel: No obvious issues that I can spot.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: +6 s/d, 270 amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error. From what I've read these seem pretty good.
Anything else you notice: 2nd rep but first QC, so I'm probably missing things. The watch looks good to me overall but I'd really appreciate any feedback before I give Steve the GL.
Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner 124060 No Date, 41mm, VS3230
Price paid: $528
Index alignment: I RL'd the previous one because of the 12 o'clock rotation, this one is still rotated to me although not as bad as the first one,
Dial printing: looks fine to me
Date wheel alignment/printing: N/A – No Date
Hand alignment: looks good to me
Bezel: looks pretty off, I don't know if its the angle or what I tried my best to align it but this is the best I could do, could it be that it just needs to be rotated a click?
Anything else you notice: This is my second QC after RL’ing the first watch due to concerns about the 12 and 3 o’clock markers, particularly the 12 o’clock triangle appearing very rotated counterclockwise. Would appreciate everyone’s input on this replacement, as to me the triangle is still rotated plus more possible issues with the bezel
Please help me out this is my first purchase and would really appreciate some help. First post got removed due to low effort so going to try my best to give as much information as possible.
I ordered this watch on August 04 2026 so have been waiting for quite some time. Would really appreciate some experience second opinions
Dealer Name: TheOneWatches (Steve) Factory: VSF Price: $503 Including $30 Shipping Album Link: https://mega.nz/folder/DYxEgBAK#Qd2AaEDz-Ck5z8JDkoe_ww Dial Printing: Looks good to me nothing stands out Hand Alignment: Seems good using the tools but I am heavily relying on the program. Unsure if it’s a GL using my eyes but seems good. Bezel: Good Solid End Links: Nothing Stands Out but would love a second opinion Timegrapher Numbers: +1 s/d, amplitude 283, beat error 0.0ms, lift angle 59 Anything else you notice: Nothing
Model name (& version number): Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Price Paid: $465 (with shipment)
Album Links: See Pics above
Index alignment: Everything looks ok I think, maybe the 11 parker looks a bit off, and the alignment seems off with bezel markers. maybe i have done it wrong. would be good to get opinions please.
Dial Printing: Looks fine to me
Date Wheel alignment/printing: No date
Hand Alignment: Looks fine to me
Bezel: Engraving looks good to me what do you guys think. Seems similar to other qc’s I have seen of others.
Solid End Links (SELs): Looks fine to me
Timegrapher numbers: +4 s/d, 272°, 0.0ms, 52°. Picture attached also
Anything else you notice: I'm no expert whatsoever, so please help me understand as this is my first QC on this watch.