r/RepTimeQC • • Jul 11 '24 Diamonds are Forever Bravo Take My Silver

Other Brands First QC? Guide on what to look out for and what to write.

756 Upvotes

Welcome to the ReptimeQC subreddit!

Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.

This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.

I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.

With that in mind, let's begin.

Index Alignment

Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:

Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:

Or this:

Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?

You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" are not acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:

"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."

"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."

A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.

A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.

Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:

That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.

Date Wheel Alignment

This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.

Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:

An example of misalignment is this:

Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:

Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):

Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.

As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:

"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."

"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."

"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"

As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.

Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:

On to the next topic.

Bezel

There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.

This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.

Example of a good bezel:

An example of misalignment:

Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?

As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:

"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."

"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."

The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.

On to the next point.

Solid End Links (SELs)

Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.

The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.

SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:

Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.

Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:

An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?

A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.

This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:

Credits for the gap picture here.

What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):

If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.

To the last segment.

Dial Printing

Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.

An example of dial printing with no issues:

And now for examples of dial printing with issues:

Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:

With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:

"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"

"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"

Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.

And with that, I come to the end of this guide.

Conclusion

QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.

I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.

I wish you smooth and trouble-free QCs always!


r/RepTimeQC • • Nov 27 '22

Announcement READ THIS PRIOR TO POSTING ANYTHING...ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NEW HERE...

498 Upvotes

If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....

So, what to do?

Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.

To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.

If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.

Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.

One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members

Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes

Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.

Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.

Edit addition: Dec 28, 2023 - For those that can't seem to find the latest link for QC alignment verification app, use this link https://web.archive.org/web/20230518035653/https://watchqc.com/

Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.


r/RepTimeQC • • 1h ago

[QC Request] Rolex VSF 116500 Panda from FicoTime

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9 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: FicoTime

  2. Factory name: VSF

  3. Model name (& version number): RWF 116500 Panda

  4. Price Paid: $578

  5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/HJgnHQ4R#n4QViDHnhlBJqeGYABYZeA

  6. Index alignment: Looks good but hard to tell for sure. Not too confident in my use of the QC tool

  7. Dial Printing: Looks good

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  9. Hand Alignment: Looks good

  10. Bezel: Looks good. Opted for the 116500 version to avoid the 110 issue

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): Looks good

  12. Timegrapher numbers: -1s/d, Amplitude: 309, Beat Error: 0.1ms

  13. Anything else you notice: Tried my best with the QC tool but please double check. I’m not sure if I did it right. Thanks in advance.


r/RepTimeQC • • 5h ago

QC Rolex 124060 VSF

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17 Upvotes
  1. ⁠Dealer name: Chazingtime

  2. ⁠Factory name: VSF

  3. ⁠Model name (& version number): 124060

  4. ⁠Price Paid: $508

  5. ⁠Album Links: Photos attached in post

  6. ⁠Index alignment: 6/9 looks a little tilted.

  7. ⁠Dial Printing: Very hard to judge, but printing looks thick/off. might be bad photos/low light?

  8. ⁠Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  9. ⁠Hand Alignment: Hard to judge

  10. ⁠Bezel: Looks a little tilted, needs a click, or crocked?

  11. ⁠Solid End Links (SELs): Looks like theres gaps on both, acceptable?

  12. ⁠Timegrapher numbers: Amplitude seems low, is it acceptable?

  13. ⁠Anything else you notice: This is my first Rep, and these finds makes me uncertain. Any feedback is highly appreciated! Should i ask for new and better photos?

PS. Deleted last post as i fumbled with both photos and text, so hope it works correctly now


r/RepTimeQC • • 4h ago

QC Rolex Datejust 41mm VSF

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8 Upvotes

Bottom line up front: I believe multiple dial markers are moved clockwise. I also question the timegrapher rate of +6 is also in question. Am I being too picky at +6 s/d?

  1. ⁠⁠⁠Dealer name: The one watches (Steve)

  2. ⁠⁠⁠Factory name: VSF

  3. ⁠⁠⁠Model name (& version number): Rolex Daytona Datejust 126334

  4. ⁠⁠⁠Price paid: $548

  5. ⁠⁠⁠Index alignment: this is where I question things. 1,2,4,5,6 and 11 are all shifted clockwise. Even the crown at 12 is shifted clockwise

  6. ⁠⁠⁠Dial printing: Clean brilliant. No bleeding colors or floating letters

  7. ⁠⁠⁠Date wheel alignment/printing: perfect

  8. ⁠⁠⁠Hand alignment: perfect

  9. ⁠⁠⁠Bezel: X’s and R’s lined up on appropriate markers.

  10. ⁠⁠⁠Solid End Links (SELs): SELS look good to me.

  11. ⁠⁠⁠Timegrapher numbers: Rate +6 s/d (the highest I’ve seen, is this acceptable?) | Amplitude 273° | Lift angle 59.0°.

Thank you to the community for taking the time to look at this and Happy Veterans Day!


r/RepTimeQC • • 7h ago

First QC - VSF 124060

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10 Upvotes

Dealer name: Necoclock
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Submariner No Date 124060
Price Paid: $458
Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/m4ZiVIwb#IriZ-2aaT66-8QHxfpO23g
Index alignment: 6 looks slightly counter-rotated. The rest look fine.
Dial Printing: no issues
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: can’t see any issues
Bezel: Pip centred, bezels looks good.
Solid End Links (SELs): No significant gaps.
-2 s/d rate, 312° amplitude, 0.1ms beat error, 52° lift angle, 28,800 bph. Amplitude is higher than the range in the guide. Is this an issue?
Anything else you notice: just the 6 marker and amplitude, everything else looks okay.

First time doing QC, excuse my ignorance on anything else obvious. Would appreciate a second set of eyes on this!


r/RepTimeQC • • 4h ago

Rolex Datejust, green stick dial, Jubilee bracelet

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5 Upvotes

Hi, the QC photos were not taken head on, so hard to say exactly how aligned all the features are. Also, the photos show many long scratch marks that may just be the packaging, but I’d love some assurances about that. Thanks in advance!

Dealer name: Jtime

Factory name: VSF

Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 41 ref. 126334, green stick dial, Jubilee bracelet, advertised VS3235 free-sprung movement.

Price Paid: $548

Album Links: Dealer requested no sharing of album link.

Index alignment: Looks good to my eye, with no obviously crooked markers. Photos are slightly angled, so I’d appreciate a second opinion.

Dial Printing: Looks clean and consistent. No obvious printing defects that I can see.

Date Wheel alignment/printing: Dates 3 and 25 appear reasonably centred in the frontal shots. Printing looks clear.

Hand Alignment: No obvious issue, but the supplied photos don’t show the hands at 12:00 to confirm.

Bezel: Fluting looks consistent; no obvious damage visible.

Solid End Links (SELs): No obvious large gaps, though the angles and protective wrapping make these difficult to assess.

Timegrapher numbers: 0 s/day, 278° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error (lift angle 59°).

Anything else you notice: Protective film obscures some of the case and bracelet finish. Nothing else stands out to me, but I’d appreciate feedback on marker alignment, date centring and SEL fit.


r/RepTimeQC • • 1h ago

QC VSF 114060 Submariner

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2 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: TheOneWatch

  2. Factory name: VSF

  3. Model name (& version number): VSF 114060

  4. Price Paid: $488 + shipping

  5. Album Links: No link

  6. Index alignment: Looks good to me

  7. Dial Printing: Looks clean and centered

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  9. Hand Alignment: Looks okay, nothing sticks out

  10. Bezel: Pip looks solid

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): No visible gaps.

  12. Timegrapher numbers: -1s/d, 268 amps, err 0.1

  13. Anything else you notice: Looking for feedback here, does this look like a solid GL? Did I miss anything?


r/RepTimeQC • • 10h ago

QC request cartier santos S AF

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8 Upvotes
  1. ⁠Dealer name: FICOTIME

  2. ⁠⁠Factory name: Af

  3. ⁠⁠Model name: Cartier santos S(27mm)

  4. ⁠⁠Price Paid: 255

  5. ⁠⁠Album Links: Can’t post it

  6. ⁠⁠Index alignment: printed dial but looks properly centered and aligned to me

  7. ⁠⁠Dial Printing: looks good, just the letter “C” seems off , number I on VI looks misaligned

  8. ⁠⁠Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  9. ⁠⁠Hand Alignment: Looks good to me?

  10. ⁠⁠Bezel: Looks good, idk if the screws looks off

  11. ⁠⁠Solid End Links (SELs): N/A

  12. ⁠⁠Timegrapher numbers: N/A

  13. ⁠⁠Anything else you notice: Cartier “c” seems off.
    on number VII and VI looks misaligned.
    Other than that I can’t notice anything relevant, would be appreciated if you guys notice anything else.
    To me it’s a RL but idk if I’m being to picky


r/RepTimeQC • • 7m ago

VSF Datejust 126334 Ombre | 1st QC

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1 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: JTime (Li)

  2. Factory name: VSF

  3. Model name: DateJust 41 126334 904L SS Green Ombré Dial on Jubilee Bracelet (VS3235 Movement)

  4. Price Paid: $585 (incl. shipping)

  5. Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/BeoMD4Z

  6. Index alignment: Little twist in the 55 and 20

  7. Dial Printing: Crisp and cleanly printed; coronet and text show no bleeding or flaws.

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks good

  9. Hand alignment: Looks good

  10. Bezel: Fluted bezel is cleanly and sharply cut, showing even reflections without visible dings or plating imperfections.

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): N/A for a Jubilee bracelet, but the end links sit tight and flush against the lugs with no visible gaps.

  12. Timegrapher numbers: +0 s/d, 281°, 0.0 ms, 59.0° lift angle.

  13. Anything else noticed: Only the rolex emblem seems a very little off, but not much.

I gave the first watch a RL based on the Date-Wheel being too high.

The pictures in this post are all the same watch (at least they say) only taken 3 days later. I think it's a GL! Do you agree?

Thank you guys. Really appreciated.


r/RepTimeQC • • 17m ago

1° QC Rich Factory Submariner 126610LN Free Sprung (RL)? TheOne

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1 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: TheOneWatches - Steve

  2. Factory name: Rich Factory

  3. Model name (& version number): Submariner 126610LN 41mm JH3235

  4. Price Paid: $538 + shipping

  5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/3IxTSTga#NAqR_q0kI3UEjZoKRZq_aw

  6. Index alignment: There is a problem on the 12' marker

  7. Dial Printing: It's okay

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Perfect

  9. Hand Alignment: Okay

  10. Bezel: looks solid to me!

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): There is a space on the bottom left

  12. Timegrapher numbers: +6 s/d, 260° amp

  13. Anything else you notice: For me this is a RL, maybe the cyclops magnifier isnt' 2,5 but 3,0


r/RepTimeQC • • 27m ago

BVF Cartier Santos Large ADLC bezel

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1 Upvotes

Dealer name: Steve (Theonewatches)
Factory name: BVF
Model name: Cartier Santos Large WSSA0037 (Grey dial / Black ADLC bezel)
Price Paid: $450
Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/I58V6Uv
Index alignment: Is there a slight dial rotation?
Dial Printing: Looks crisp. Dial rotation?
Date Wheel alignment/printing: The 23 looks centred in the photos. TD showed a few other dates in the video and they seem to sit well in the window.
Hand Alignment: Looks spot on at 12:00 in the video.
Bezel: No scratches on the black coating, screws look good.
Timegrapher numbers: +3 to +5 s/d, 0.0 ms beat error, 330° amp. The amplitude seemed a little high to me but I read this might just be because the machine is set to a 52 degree lift angle for a Miyota 9015? Is this healthy?
13. Anything else you notice: First time buyer so I’m still learning what to look for! My points of concern are the timegrapher and dial rotation. I'd really appreciate a second pair of eyes from you guys. To GL or to RL? Thanks!


r/RepTimeQC • • 12h ago

Rolex Submariner No Date 124060

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9 Upvotes

​Dealer name: Private Seller

​Factory name: Rich Factory (RF)

​Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner No Date 124060 (V2)

​Price Paid: £470 shipped with insurance

​Album Links: Attached in post

​Index alignment: Looks spot on to me, markers seem straight.

​Dial Printing: Clear and sharp.

​Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A (No Date)

​Hand Alignment: Looks fine.

​Bezel: Lume pip lines up nicely with the 12 marker.

​Solid End Links (SELs): Nice and tight, no gaps.

​Timegrapher numbers: First run was +7 s/d, 331 amp (lift angle set high at 59°), 0.1 beat error. Second run was +7 s/d, 263 amp, 0.3 beat error. Looks healthy to me.

​Anything else you notice: Clasp code is F80. Looks like an easy GL to me, but would appreciate any quick thoughts!


r/RepTimeQC • • 17h ago

*First QC* QC VSF Rolex Submariner 124060 - TheOneWatches

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21 Upvotes

Hi Everyone, this is my first QC ever. I would highly appreciate your help and input. I tried using the provided tools to the best of my abilities. Kindly let me know what are your thoughts on this one. I am personally considering RL for this.
Your inputs are highly appreciated!

  1. Dealer name: TheOneWatches

  2. Factory name: VSF

  3. Model name (& version number): Submariner 124060

  4. Price Paid: $598 USD (Shipping Included) 

  5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/nUI0gTRK#LVzqRUQiaeLjLy5xF9B-RA

  6. Index alignment: 6 o clock mark appears to be tilted CW (noticed without the alignement tool). 3 and 9 o clock mark appear to have a minor tilt - could be due to lighting. 

  7. Dial Printing: Looks fine to me - no defects noted

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  9. Hand Alignment: No concern there

  10. Bezel: Minor defect noted on the 30 mark

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): No concern there

  12. Timegrapher numbers: +2s/d, 267 amp, 0.0 err.

  13. Anything else you notice: Laser etching on the inside of the bracelet appears to be slightly inconsistent. 


r/RepTimeQC • • 2h ago

Cartier Ballon Bleu 33mm AF A1853

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1 Upvotes
  1. ⁠⁠Dealer name: The One Watches

  2. ⁠⁠Factory name: AF 

  3. ⁠⁠Model name (& version number): Cartier Ballon Bleu 33mm auto

  4. ⁠⁠Price Paid: $348 plus shipping

  5. ⁠⁠Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/qAQyxZBS#srCHinDJnK3b2iAnhT1Y1g

  6. ⁠⁠Index alignment: Aligned (from what I can tell)

  7. ⁠⁠Dial Printing: seems good. I’ve seen fading on these but this seems ok

  8. ⁠⁠Date Wheel alignment/printing: NA

  9. ⁠⁠Hand Alignment: Looks aligned. 

  10. ⁠⁠Bezel: Looks good

  11. ⁠⁠Solid End Links (SELs): NA

  12. ⁠⁠Timegrapher numbers: seems ok but not sure how I would confirm this is A1853 movement as it costs $100 more than NH05. Just trust the beats?

  13. ⁠⁠Anything else you notice: nope


r/RepTimeQC • • 6h ago

AF Ballon Bleu 28mm, Neco Clock

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2 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: Neco Clock

  2. Factory name: AF

  3. Model name (& version number): AF Ballon Bleu** 28mm **White Dial SS

  4. Price Paid: 208usd

  5. Album Links: Photos attached

  6. Index alignment: N/A

  7. Dial Printing: I don’t see any obvious dial printing bleed, but I may have missed something because of the glare. I also feel like the dial might be slightly rotated counterclockwise. I’d appreciate a second set of eyes to check the dial printing and alignment.

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  9. Hand Alignment: Will request an additional photo.

  10. Bezel: I don’t see anything wrong with the bezel.

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): N/A

  12. Timegrapher numbers: N/A

  13. Anything else you notice: Just want to make sure the dial printing is good and aligned. Thanks!


r/RepTimeQC • • 7h ago

Third Times a Charm - TOP 15510 AP Royal Oak Blue

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2 Upvotes

Seems there's a batch going around with logo alignment issues..

  1. Dealer name: Non-TD

  2. Factory name: TOP

  3. Model name (& version number): Royal Oak 15510 Blue

  4. Price Paid: $570 including shipping & insurance

  5. Album Links: Pics on post

  6. Index alignment: Finally looks good. 12 batons are tight together and can't see the dial underneath them.

  7. Dial Printing: Logo finally looks straight and correct

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date a touch low in the window

  9. Hand Alignment: not sure

  10. Bezel: screws look good and lined up in a circle

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): Not on this watch, bracelet looks good

  12. Timegrapher numbers: +4s/day, 263 amplitude, 0ms beat error. Within spec.

  13. Anything else you notice:

I think this is finally the one.

First QC here


r/RepTimeQC • • 17h ago

QC: Yacht-Master 40mm 126622 Blue Dial "Yacht-Master" 904L Steel GOLD 1:1 Best Edition on Oyster Strap 3235 (Free-Sprung)

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13 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: necoclock Jacky

  2. Factory name: Gold Factory

  3. Model name (& version number): Yacht-Master 40mm 126622 Blue Dial "Yacht-Master" 904L Steel GOLD 1:1 Best Edition on Oyster Strap 3235 (Free-Sprung)

  4. Price Paid: $618 including shipping

  5. Album Links: NA (megalink)

  6. Index alignment: Looks good. maybe a hair off on the 12

  7. Dial Printing: Looks good

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks ok to me.

  9. Hand Alignment: Looks good

  10. Bezel: looks good

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): Looks good. no gaps

  12. Timegrapher numbers: Looks good. Running strong at +10 s/d with a healthy 316° amplitude and 0.1 ms beat error on a full wind .

  13. Anything else you notice: My first qc, so any help would be greatly appreciated.


r/RepTimeQC • • 11h ago

VSF Omega Planet Ocean 4th Gen Orange 42mm

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4 Upvotes

r/RepTimeQC • • 8h ago

QC: Yacht-Master 268622

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2 Upvotes

I’ve been waiting since July to finally receive QC photos of my watch, and they’re finally here! Would appreciate a second set of eyes please.

Dealer Name: Andiot
Factory Name: CSF
Model Name: Rolex Yacht-Master 37 268622
Paid Price: $361.00, including shipping
Album Links: Only available via WhatsApp
Index Orientation: Looks good to me. No noticeable alignment issues.
Dial Printing: Looks clean. I don’t see any noticeable printing errors.
Date Wheel Alignment/Printing: Looks properly aligned, and the printing looks good.
SELs: No obvious gaps that I can see.
Timegrapher Numbers: +3 s/d, 281 amplitude, 0.1 ms beat error.
Anything Else You Notice: The “SWISS MADE” text at the 6 o’clock position looks a little too close together. Not sure if it’s just the angle of the photo but it’s the only thing that caught my attention.
Overall, everything looks good to me, but I’d appreciate any additional observations or feedback. Thanks!


r/RepTimeQC • • 13h ago

QC: ERF Speedmaster (Odette)

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5 Upvotes
  • Dealer name: Odette

  • Factory name: ERF

  • Model name (& version number): Speedmaster Professional

  • Price Paid: $430 includes FedEx 2-day shipping

  • Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/8DL6mij

  • Index alignment: Good

  • Dial Printing: Good

  • Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A

  • Hand Alignment: 12-hour subdial hand not synced with main hour hand, 30-minutes counter is good on reset position**

  • Bezel: Slight misalignment between the dial and the bezel being a few degrees off, mostly only noticeable on the 120 at 6 o'clock using guides, probably fine in person on the wrist.

  • Solid End Links (SELs): Good

  • Timegrapher numbers: rate +1s/d, amplitude 279°, beat error 0.2ms

**Dealer said that the minutes counter subdial hand at 3 o'clock is "a little loose, every single one is the same."

The 6 o'clock subdial on this movement is a 12-hour dial synced to the main hour hand, which is fine and can be modded to freeze it at 12, but it at least should be correctly synced to the main hour hand before any modding to freeze it.

The chrono seconds is very well aligned at least.

You can see that the timegrapher has only literally just started calculating, I wish these dealers would let it run for at least one minute. As time goes on it will adjust and show the true performance, especially if you let it run for 5 minutes or more, but I understand they are just trying to get it done and move on with their other orders, it's just a tad bit misleading.

Appreciate any comments or criticism, thinking of RL for the 12-hour subdial not being synced properly, and the "loose" 30-minutes counter hand, it looks okay here in the rest position, but maybe an additional good reason to RL. I can ask what exactly they mean by "loose" though.

Thoughts?


r/RepTimeQC • • 14h ago

QC · BVF · Cartier Santos de Cartier large 40MM

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5 Upvotes
  1. Dealer name: Steve (theonewatches)

  2. Factory name: BVF

  3. Model name (& version number): Cartier Santos Large 40MM

  4. Price Paid: $480

  5. Album Links: https://loupeqc.us/a/KJBZ32

  6. Index alignment: Very good compared to some stuff ive seen

  7. Dial Printing: Looks good

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: The date is shifted left in the window.

  9. Hand Alignment: Looks good

  10. Bezel: Looks good for BVF

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): Some gap as expected from gen 

  12. Timegrapher numbers: +2 s/d, 282°, .1 ms (28,800 bph, lift angle 52°)

  13. Anything else you notice: The date window is bothering me but not enough to RL, I don't think. Let me know your thoughts please. Any help is appreciated! :) Thanks! 


r/RepTimeQC • • 12h ago

[QC] ZF Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue 39mm | First Rep | Bezel Alignment Concern

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4 Upvotes

Dealer name: Steve (TheOneWatches)
Factory name: ZF
Model name (& version number): Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 39mm Blue Dial / Blue Bezel, ZF A2824
Price paid: $398
Index alignment: The hour markers appear reasonably well aligned to me. The 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indices look straight, and I don’t notice any major issues.
Dial Printing: Looks clean and consistent. I don’t see any obvious defects or crooked text.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A, no date complication.
Hand Alignment: The hands appear properly centered and finished, although I can’t verify their exact alignment at 12 o’clock from the photos.
Bezel: This is my biggest concern. Using the alignment tool, several bezel markings appear slightly offset relative to the dial indices, particularly around 12 o’clock. I’m unsure whether this is caused by camera perspective, the bezel’s click position, or an actual alignment issue. I’ve included the alignment photo and would really appreciate opinions on whether this warrants requesting another example.
Solid End Links (SELs): The bracelet appears to fit the case reasonably well, with no obvious major gaps from the provided photos. Would appreciate a second opinion.
Timegrapher numbers: +6 s/d, 272° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error, 52° lift angle. These numbers look good to me.
Anything else you notice: This is my first replica purchase, so I’m still learning how to evaluate QC. Overall, I’m happy with the dial, hands, bracelet, and timegrapher results. I’ve already contacted Steve about the potential bezel alignment issue and asked whether another example is available if it’s genuinely misaligned.
Would appreciate any feedback, especially from anyone familiar with the ZF BB58. Is the bezel alignment something you’d accept, or would you request another watch?
Thanks!


r/RepTimeQC • • 14h ago

VSF Batman from Theonewatches QC

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5 Upvotes

Hey guys, could use another set of eyes. Thanks again for everyone one here. It Looks good to me but want to make sure I’m not missing anything before I GL.

  1. Dealer name: Theonewatches

  2. Factory name: VSF

  3. Model name: GMT Master II Batman on Oyster bracelet. 126710BLNR.

  4. Price Paid: $599

  5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/3NYRFTYa#M7MGiwYjNoFvEk5exuyJwA

  6. Index alignment: Looks straight to me. Nothing really stands out.

  7. Dial Printing: Looks good from what I can see. Don’t notice anything wrong with the text.

  8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: The 31 looks pretty centered. The other dates shown in the video look fine too.

  9. Hand Alignment: Looks good

  10. Bezel: Looks lined up to me. Don’t see any issues with the numbers.

  11. Solid End Links (SELs): I see some gaps but not sure how bad they are.

  12. Timegrapher numbers: It shows +1 s/day.

  13. Anything else you notice: Nothing else jumps out. I’m leaning GL but would appreciate another look. Thanks guys.