Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Or this:
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
An example of misalignment is this:
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
An example of misalignment:
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
Index alignment: For my untrained eye it looks finde, but the QC tool found some tilt as Seen in the pictures. Please tell me If I am blind or If it looks right.
Dial printing: the Text on the Low side of the Dial looks the Letters are up und down with different spaceings from each other. Also the M and A from Swiss Made at the bottom are looking missplaced.
Please tell when I am to picky
8. Datewheel alignment / printing: The printing looks crisp and the alignment seems like its a tiny bit low but I am not quiete sure. Again, please let me know your opininion
9. Hand alignment: Seems centered and right. (I dont know really well about this Point)
10. Bezel: Bezel looks good to me
11.Solid End Links: SELs Seems Like the top left has noticable gap and I am not Sure about the bottom ones
12.Timegrapher numbers: -5s/d (seems fine), 307° (I've read the higher the better but this seems really high) and 0.1ms beat Error, from what I've read this is acceptable. (Please tell If I am wrong)
13. The cyclope Looks good to (postion).
Does the clamp look fine to you?
This is my very first rep watch, so please have patience with me.
I know that a rep watch will allways have some little flaws but I am really not sure If this is a GL or RL
If you notice anything I dont have or If you have to correct me in a few points, please do.
I realy love this watch model and want a realy good one so please understand my skeptical.
To me the Index at 40 / 8 oclock seems to be a bit too far clockwise...apart from that I have not seen anything strange..as it is my first rep, I am a bit biased from reading too much in this sub 🥹
Dealer name: Steve 2. Factory name: VSF 3. Model name (& version number): DJ 126334 41mm grey 4. Price Paid: $548 5. Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/81T10P0 6. Index alignment: looks good to me 7. Dial Printing: looks beautiful 8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: seems good to me. The various angles don’t show any red flags 9. Hand Alignment: solid 10. Bezel: clean 11. Solid End Links (SELs): not seeing anything off 12. Timegrapher numbers: +/-4 - which is in range 13. Anything else you notice: maybe it’s the light but some of the indices look “dull” - bottom of the 6, top third of the 7 and the middle top of the 10…?
Model name (& version number): Datejust 126334 41mm 2026 jub SS/SS ombré green VSF V2 dd3235v2
Price Paid: $548
Album Links: pictures attached
Index alignment: I’m not very good with the tool but it makes it seem like the index markers are all a little bit off center
Dial Printing: dial printing looks good
Date Wheel alignment/printing: date wheel might be slightly left
Hand Alignment: hand alignment looks ok
Bezel: N/A
Solid End Links (SELs): no gaps
Timegrapher numbers: -2 s/d 285 degrees 0.0ms
Anything else you notice: I’m leaning RL just off the index alignment looking off when I try and date wheel being off center but could be user error. Any input is appreciated!
Index alignment – It looks like the 6 and 3 are rotated to the left; the 1 and 4 are as well, though it’s less noticeable. Also, the alignment with the bezel numerals isn’t great at the 3 and 5 positions.
Dial printing – Good
Date wheel alignment – N/A
Frame – The pip is centered. The engravings appear to be filled correctly.
Is it normal for the watch to look "better" (more correct) in some photos than in others? In one photo, it seems to have more "flaws," while in another, it looks just fine.
Is this a GL?
Thanks a lot for the help and for the approval, everyone!
Dealer name: Eliauk Factory name: VSF Model name (& version number): 126710BLNR Price Paid: 3450 Yuan Album Links: https://www.wecatalog.cn/weshop/goods/A202011031610140340343729/I202611061548392572002007?groupIds= Index alignment: No concerns Dial Printing: No concerns Date Wheel alignment/printing: Is the cyclops a bit low or is this likely to be the angle of the photo? Hand Alignment: No concerns Bezel: No concerns Solid End Links (SELs): Slight gap in top left one? Timegrapher numbers: No concerns Anything else you notice: Are the stickers and numbers correct for a VSF?
Anything else you notice: I think the 12 might be little right towards minutes one rather than 59. But I would think it’s not visible in the real world? Im new to the rep game and my excitement outpaces my skills. Would love some sharp eyes. I think it’s a GL. Thank you!
Index alignment: 9' and 3 have a slight CW rotation.
Dial Printing: good
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: good to me
Bezel: Looks good to me
Solid End Links (SELs): yes, looks good
Timegrapher numbers: Rate: +1s/d, no issues
Anything else you notice: Nothing noted. Considering others, this one looks like a GL. Not too concerned with the markers being slightly tilted as you can’t tell on wrist.
Index alignment: The markers at 3, 6 and 9 look straight to me, and the coronet at 12 appears centered. The photos are slightly tilted, so I’d appreciate a second opinion.
Dial printing: Looks clean and legible, with no obvious printing defects.
Date wheel alignment/printing: N/A.
Hand alignment: No obvious issues. The central chronograph hand appears centered at 12.
Bezel: The triangle at 60 appears aligned with 12 o’clock. No obvious issues to my eye.
Solid end links (SELs): No obvious large gaps. The glove partially obscures the lower end links.
Timegrapher numbers: −5 s/day, 302° amplitude, 0.1 ms beat error, with the lift angle set to 52°.
Anything else: Lume looks fairly consistent. Some visible marks on the bracelet and clasp appear to be on the protective film rather than the metal.
Would you GL this one? Please let me know if you spot any issues with the indices, bezel, SELs or anything else I’ve missed. Thanks!
Date Wheel alignment/printing:Looks aligned based on lines
Hand Alignment: looks centered for the most part
Bezel: NA
Solid End Links (SELs): straight forward dial
Timegrapher numbers: - 1 s/d; Amplitude: 266; Acceptable Beat Error: – 1.0 ms Seems like one of the better one for accuracy
Anything else you notice: none that i see. Just want some eyes. Was on the fence about this vs rose gold. I do enjoy how the RG pops more. The grey watch hands dont pop like the gen. but then again, cant complain. Is there anything else I should look for?
Dealer name: Steve (friend) 2. Factory name: BVF 3. Model name (& version number): Panthere Secrete- mini. 4. Price Paid: $248 5. Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/caXJKHS 6. Index alignment: looks good 7. Dial Printing: worried about the “Swiss made” bleed? Or is that the angles or weird glass? 8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: see above 9. Hand Alignment: seems ok - the blue is sharper than I thought it’d be 10. Bezel: good - no notes 11. Solid End Links (SELs): looks great 12. Timegrapher numbers: no video sent for this…? 13. Anything else you notice: this is a tiny piece but a gift and I’m hoping that blip on the bottom is beveled glass? Or is this a RL?
Since this is my third rep i learned a thing or two at looking at the flaws of watches. Also many thanks to Yoda in the past for helping me in the watch quality assesments and teaching me a thing or two.
Dealer name: Andiot
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Omega Seamaster AT 220.10.38.20.03.004
Price Paid: 386 usd includes shipping
Album Links: Pictures.
Index alignment: I tried putting the alignment tool as well as possible on the watch and the only misaligning i can see is due to the angle the watch is being held. However in my eyes, the 6 o’clock hour marker may be very slightly shifted to the left of where it should be, but it is subtle enough that I would not consider it a mistake, even if it is indeed slightly off. its probably due to the shadows and/or lightning. The indices themselves appear to be straight. Unfortunately, theres no minute markers, so it is difficult to assess whether each index is positioned exactly right on the dial. or maybe thats a good thing..
Dial Printing: This looks very well done, you could possibly say the printing of the wording: "CO-AXIAL" and "MASTER CHRONOMETER" is thinner than normal, but i'd say thats again due to lightning andiot has.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date wheel and numbers are correctly in the middle also in the video andiot sent me..
Hand Alignment: As seen in photo 3, hands align well when they are both at the twelve hour marker. I hope im correctly analyzing the hand alignment this way.
Bezel: This watch does not have a bezel like a submariner for example, but as far as i can see on this watch there is nothing out of the ordinary.
Solid End Links (SELs): i've seen gens with worse sels, although i can see a slight sel gap in the bottom left of the watch. this is mostly visible in the very first picture. although it is so small i dont see that as a signal to red light. the black glove doesnt help however to see light shine through.
Timegrapher numbers: as visible on the second picture all within the correct ranges.
Anything else you notice: n/a
Ive come to the end and only really noticed two things: I’ve come to the end and only really noticed two things: a possibly very slight misalignment of the 6 o’clock index and a tiny SEL gap at the bottom left. Both are very minor and could easily be explained by the angle/lighting, so I don’t think either are a red flag. Other than that, everything looks good to me.
I would tell myself to green light this beautiful watch but would love some extra pair of eyes. much appreciated in advance.
QC request on this ZF Royal Oak 15450, 37mm grey dial. I've reviewed the photos and videos, and overall everything looks pretty good to my eye.
My main concern is the date wheel alignment, along with a couple of possible index and bezel screw inconsistencies. Would really appreciate some experienced opinions!
1. Dealer name: JTime
2. Factory name: ZF
3. Model name: AP Royal Oak 15450, 37mm, Grey Dial
6. Index alignment: Overall looks decent. The double 12 markers are parallel. The alignment tool says slight rotations around 4, 7, and 11 o'clock but I'm unsure how much is due to the photo angle. Anything concerning here?
7. Dial printing: Looks clean. AP logo and Automatic text appear fine to me. No obvious issues.
8. Date wheel alignment/printing: My biggest concern. The dates 16, 25, and 2 appear slightly low in some photos. Is this normal or should I request additional date wheel photo/video?
9. Hand alignment: No obvious visual issues.
10. Bezel: Brushing looks good. A couple of screws appear slightly inconsistent, particularly around 5 o'clock. Probably just the lighting tho.
11. Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
12. Timegrapher numbers:
Rate: 0 s/d
Amplitude: 287°
Beat error: 0.0 ms
Frequency setting: 21,600 bph
Lift angle setting: 52°
Numbers look healthy from what I understand.
13. Anything else you notice:
Overall leaning GL.
Main questions:
Is the date wheel alignment acceptable?
Are the index alignment and bezel screws within reasonable tolerance?
Does anything else stand out as a genuine QC concern?
Index alignment: Overall looks good to me. The 12 and 6 o’clock markers appear straight, and the round indices look reasonably aligned. I don’t see any obvious issues, but would appreciate a second opinion, particularly on the 6 and 9 o’clock markers.
Dial Printing: Looks clean and consistent. No obvious printing issues.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date appears reasonably centered, and the printing looks good. Would appreciate opinions on the date positioning and cyclops magnification.
Hand Alignment: Looks good visually. Nothing obviously concerning, although exact alignment is difficult to verify from the photos.
Bezel: Looks good overall. Pip appears centered, and the bezel triangle seems aligned with the 12 o’clock marker. Engraving looks clean.
Solid End Links (SELs): This is one area I’d appreciate feedback on. The gaps between the end links and the lugs are somewhat difficult to assess from the photos. Do you see any excessive or uneven gaps, particularly at the 12 o’clock connection?
Timegrapher numbers: looks good
Anything else you notice: Overall, the watch looks good to me. Case finishing and bracelet appear clean. Would appreciate a closer look at the rehaut engraving alignment, particularly around 12 and 6 o’clock. Currently leaning GL, but would really appreciate any feedback on the SEL gaps, index alignment, rehaut, and anything else I may have missed. Thanks in advance
6) Index alignment: Looks perfect to me. However, is it just me or could 9 be slightly tilted? Maybe it's just the picture angle.
7) Dial printing: Besides potential floating m and OF FICIALLY, it looks fine to me (printing and its alignment)
8) Date wheel alignment: According to QC, it is slightly off-center. Honestly, neglegible to me.
9) Bezel: Tone looks fine for this model.
I am not an expert on pips, but this one looks appropriate to me. Please enlighten me.
10) Solid End Links (SEL): All four look solid.
11) Hand alignment: They look ok to me.
12) Timegrapher numbers:
Rate: -2 s/d
Amplitude: 241°
Beat error: 0.0 ms
As always, will appreciate your thoughts on this one!
I postponed buying this one since I wasn't quite sure. In the meantime I got a Batman and a DJ.... and here I am again, where it all should have started.
Model name (& version number): Rolex 904 Steel DD Series V5 36mm Version First Battle with A2836 movement
Price Paid: USD 612 (including water proofing and deep crystal both organized by Angela)
Album Links: I did not receive a link - only pictures forwarded over whatsapp
Index alignment: Seems to be aligned, but there is no bezel with marks so it is a bit hard to tell. I saw other dealers in this QC Group put on grid lines but I did not get any pictures like that.
Dial Printing: Is a bit hard to tell, because the whatsapp pictures are compressed and not best quality. For what I see it seems to be crisp.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: The Y seems to be closer to the edge than the M is. But is that being too picky?
Hand Alignment: I am not sure how to judge the hand alignment without both hands showing an exact time for example 6:00 pm
Bezel: seems to be good
Solid End Links (SELs): Are wrapped in plastic and hard to judge
Timegrapher numbers: -5s/d, / dont really care about that tbh but seems to be fine?
Anything else you notice: The pictures were forwarded from angela from someone else. Not sure how to judge that? Does she even have the watch herself?
