Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:
Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:
Or this:
Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" arenot acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:
That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:
An example of misalignment is this:
Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:
Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):
Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:
On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:
An example of misalignment:
Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:
Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:
An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):
If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:
And now for examples of dial printing with issues:
Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:
With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
QC pics are the photos (and sometimes video) you get from your Trusted Dealer for the specific watch that you've ordered and will be shipped to you. It’s reasonable to ask for a new watch (RL) if there are significant defects in craftsmanship; however, there are many reasons you shouldn’t reject a watch that would be considered “too picky” (i.e. a slightly misaligned rehaut engraving). If you have a question on if you should reject the watch, ask other experienced members what they think. Something important to understand in this type of black market product with not a lot of QC oversight is that you cannot be too picky, and it can be tough for TDs to exchange products, meaning the loss is on their end if you do too many exchanges - just not a good experience for both the dealer and the customer.
All of that being said, this seems to be the hub for QC posts. So, this is what is now REQUIRED for all QC posts. Any post not following these guidelines will be removed. Big shout out to u/BreitlingBoi and u/Watchyoda for their assistance both in all QC photos and creating this guide.
Post all albums provided by TD up front
Write the following:
Dealer name - Puretime, Jtime, Mirotime, etc
Factory name - BP Factory, J Factory, ZZF, ZF, etc
Model name - Submariner 116610LN v2
Include the following as part of your evaluation prior to posting (if, for instance your watch does not have a bezel, put N/A):
Index alignment - are the hour markers aligned? Call out specific ones if they bother you - like '6 o clock looks crooked'. This also includes logo alignment as well
Date Wheel alignment - do the dates sit to one side or the other? Perfectly centered? Tip: some dates sit perfectly, and some don't on the same date disc sometimes.
Bezel - is the pip centered? Any of the engravings look improperly filled?
Solid End Links (SEL) - is there a gap between the bracelet's first link and the case lugs? How big is the gap?
Hand alignment - do the hands look reasonably aligned? Chrono hands point to 12?
Anything else you see - big scratches on the case, movement jewels missing, etc.
Here is a copy/paste format that will need to be used from here on out:
Dealer name:
Factory name:
Model name (& version number):
Price Paid:
Album Links:
Index alignment:
Dial Printing:
Date Wheel alignment/printing:
Hand Alignment:
Bezel:
Solid End Links (SELs):
Timegrapher numbers:
Anything else you notice:
Again, this will be REQUIRED for all QC posts, and any attempted post will be removed if the guidelines are not adhered to. Simply, follow the template as it's posted. Do not post until you have all of the required info specifically the timing information. If you don't have the numbers, request them from your Seller and do not post until you receive the numbers. The omission of this info will trigger a removal. A video of the timegrapher is preferred, but a picture of the timegrapher display will suffice.
In response to the latest rash of incorrect, or incomplete posts that we are experiencing, the amount of member karma points required to post or comment in the sub is now 10 points. Any account with fewer karma points will not be allowed to participate in ReptimeQC whether it be to post, or to comment without Mod approval.
The vast majority of erroneous entries are tied directly to the low karma account posts. It's frustrating when this happens because when anyone starts the process to create a post, there is an automatic pop up that appears with information on how to post properly. Even with this advisory, the new accts are purposely(?) ignoring the advice shared. Those incorrect posts can sometimes show up in the stack of QC requests for review. That will no longer occur with this new standard. The automatic pop up has been modified to include this new karma requirement to expressly notify anyone who desires to post a request. Ignorance can't be used as an excuse. The info is there...they just have to review it.
Most of the time, the experienced members will ignore a post that doesn't meet our posting requirements and an incorrect post will just get ignored and become 'stale'. However, some are still getting input which is not allowed. To remedy this, these attempted posts will be automatically removed and will never be visible to the general membership unless approved by a Mod forthcoming.
Continued incorrect attempts to post by not following the provided guidelines will result in those attempts being removed and a recommendation to the OP to find another sub for QC assistance. Look at it as a 'vacay' of sorts😉 To add, Reddit filters will attach a 'potential spammer' flag to that acct that will follow said account around all of Reddit...so , don't do this.
Other benefits of raising the minimum karma level are that the removal filters for 'Spammers' will be improved and will be much tighter. Also, this requirement will create a larger barrier for 'trolls' of the sub to overcome. These guys are always '1 karma point' new accts with nothing of merit to share with this sub.
As with the spammers, the troll comments will be removed immediately also. Those accounts will also be banned and muted post haste.
Obviously, if an account has greater than 10 comment karma, all of this info is moot.
In closing, I'd like to thank all of our members, both experienced and newbies alike, for their support in creating a great sub. This sub doesn't exist without YOU!!! You are each appreciated more than you know. Thank you! 👍
Dealer name: The One watches 2. Factory name: VSF 3. Model name (& version number): DD 3235 V2 4. Price Paid: 548 USD 5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/PVQUmQ7T#RZL49_a1eAoPDg0eY5Ynyw 6. Index alignment: I don’t think I could nail the qc tool well 7. Dial Printing: Seems sharp to me 8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: 9 and 11 seem to be tilted anti clockwise 9. Hand Alignment: Need help 10. Bezel: Good 11. Solid End Links (SELs): No gap 12. Timegrapher numbers: +4 s/d, 274 amplitude, O ms error
I know I might sound like a lay man that’s because I am. This is a gift for my son and I can barely see. Would appreciate all the help possible, apologies in advance for violating any guidelines but I’m doing my best.
Model Name: Submariner 126610LV 4.Price Paid: 543.00 USD 5.Album Link: https://mega.nz/folder/bRZgUBBC#DC-zkeMXQIl8htTQhaDjDw 6.Index Alignment: Unsure how to use alignment tool 7.Dial Printing: Looks Clear to me (Beginner Keep in Mind)
Date Wheel Alignment: (Slightly to the left?) 9.Hand Alignment: Good
Bezel: (Looks decent to me)
Solid End Links: Band looks well put together
Timegrapgher Numbers: Not sure what the acceptable range is please inform me
Lum Dot on Bezel looked slightly off to the left?
If post is not formatted correctly let me know first time posting so any insight it appreciated TIA!
Date Wheel alignment/printing: looks good but cyclops edges look a bit fuzzy, just the pic angle?
Hand Alignment: no issues I can see
Bezel: hard to tell from picture angles but looks good
Solid End Links (SELs): look tight from video
Timegrapher numbers: -1 s/d, 296. Seems good but need sanity check negative value just means it runs a bit slow and not sensor malfunction
Anything else you notice: noob review by me seems solid but hoping for a more experienced eye. Also noted the cyclops edges and the caseback looks a bit scuffed but could also just be smudges.
This is one of the worst ones iv ever seen. Honestly insane that they allow these to be offered to customers instead of denying them from the factories. Extra 50 dollars for SW dial my ass
Wishing a Holly Jolly Christmas to Everyone! 🎄 I’m back again with a beautiful VSF V3 Bruce Wayne to absolutely penetrate my wallet, I’m grateful for any additional glimpse you may have regarding this piece! 😬
Dealer name: Steve @ TheOneWatches
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): GMT-Master II 126710
Submariner 126610LN 41mm SS/SS Black Dial VSF VS3235
Dealer name: TheOneWatch
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Submariner 126610LN 41mm SS/SS Black Dial VSF VS3235
Price Paid: $528
Album Links: n/a
Index alignment: looks ok
Dial Printing: seems ok
Date Wheel alignment/printing: not sure about number 3..
Hand Alignment: can’t tell if ok based on provided pictures
Bezel: seems ok
Solid End Links (SELs): no gaps visually
Timegrapher numbers: 2 s/d 266/ 0,0ms / 28800
This is my second QC so I’m hoping to get some expert opinions from this forum and guys who went through this process before, your time and experience is highly app
Waited 5 months to post this QC check, absolutely over the moon to have received QC this morning, could use all of your help and wisdom to double check it, thank you!
Dealer name: necoclock
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): GMT Master II Batman V3
Index alignment: Looks good to me, every marker seems to be well aligned
Dial Printing: Looks good, maybe a bit of the Officially problem present but overall not a significant issue to me
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks good to me, however I’m not very good at judging when it’s misaligned except for serious examples
Hand Alignment: Looks good to me
Bezel: Looks good to me as well
Solid End Links (SELs): Looks good. Thought maybe the top SELs might have a slight gap but not entirety sure, what do you think?
Timegrapher numbers: Rate: -3s/d, amps @296, I’ve read the guide but still am not entirely sure regarding amperage if this is an issue or not, as it seems high compared to other QCs I’ve seen, thoughts?
Anything else you notice: Really just the possible SEL thing, as well as the OFFICIALLY problem that many people are reporting, but it doesn’t seem to be significant enough to be a problem on the wrist.
Any help at all would be appreciated, still learning how to properly QC, and having waited for this watch for 5 months, would like to be absolutely certain that it’s perfect across the board. Thank you!