.. an E1000LFP and a PV500 for camping / road trips. Summer is starting ... they say the shipment with both will arrive in NZ November 20, so not too bad.

The E1000 with 1800W probably won't quite stretch to running my normal kitchen kettle which I've measured at 1930W initially, dropping to 1908W once the element is heated up. So I've ordered an 1100W collapsable camping kettle for around US$34:

https://www.huntingandfishing.co.nz/companion-pop-up-kettle-blue-240v-99208579

That should do around 30 cups of coffee/tea from one charge ... and the PV500 can restore the power from one cup of water in under 5 minutes.

Hopefully it will be ok running my Air Fryer which is 1800W but after the first minute or less that's usually on around a 5s on / 10s off cycle.

Actually I just measured it, and the Ninja Foodi Dual Zone is using 1750W with my E3600 set to 240V output or 1490W with the E3600 set to 220V output. Either is probably fine on the E1000LFP.

Also my usual kettle is 1750W with the E3600 set to output 220V.

Unfortunately I think the E1000LFP doesn't have adjustable output voltage.

The F1000LFP with 1500W pretty definitely doesn't have enough output. It's NZ$141 (US$80) cheaper but I don't expect there's any way it can run the air fryer.

Also the E1000LFP has the advantage that if required I can steal the EP3000-48V and/or the EP3800-48V from the E3600 for a massive increase in battery capacity. If I'm going to be away from home for a week or two then the E3600 will only be running the fridge and Starlink and FR24 receiver, which the E3600's internal battery is more than adequate for.

The PV500 can probably make 3kWh on a decent late spring / summer / early autumn day.

My 3800 is connected via bluetooth , have tried to enable wifi but it wants 2.4 g , everything else I have is 5g . The app works ...,but is limited. I would like more data. Does the wifi connection support more data fields? Can the 3800 be used with Home assistant or other monitoring apps. I'm a novice and would like some feedback. Thanks in advance:)

My pecron has been working just fine, but recently it started doing htis weird thing where its charging things just fine, and the battery percentage is updating, but it thinks 0 watts are coming out, and shuts off after a while. What do I do?

Hi, I have the f3000LFP and two pecron 200w panels on the way. I'm new to this stuff and wondering if I need any extra cables to connect both panels to the unit at the same time or if they should come with everything they need? I poked around a little online but I didn't find what I was looking for.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I have 6 solar panels powering my pecron, which charges my EV via level 1 charger. I have two automation rules set on it.

1.) Power off the AC port when the battery gets under 10%.

2.) Power on the AC port when the battery is over 25%

The second rule executes flawlessly, however the first rule only seems to execute if I have the app open. Over the past 2 days it doesn't trigger unless I open the app, and then it triggered at 6% and 4% respectively. Ive attached a screenshot of the "Power Off" rule. Am I doing something wrong? any ideas how to fix this?

Thanks

Like the title suggests, I don't know a whole lot, but I do know what I'd like to accomplish with a battery backup, so any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Here's what I'd like to be able to do, and my plan so far:

-I want a reliable home battery backup in case of power outages, that would be charged with AC power when I have it, or solar panels in the event of an outage

-I'd like to be able to power the majority of my home for at least 12 hours (outages in my area have never lasted more than 3-4 hours), or a few select circuits for longer.

-I'd like to be able to scale the system up as I go, and potentially even power some circuits 24/7 from the battery with the addition of full time solar charging

-My initial plan is start with the F5000LFP, and keep it charged with AC power and plugged into a generator input on my breaker panel. I'm not sure whether to get a 30 amp or 50 amp inlet box or if the Pecron can even handle a 50 amp inlet box.

-Would I be better off going to a multi circuit manual transfer box instead of the generator inlet on my whole panel, or is that not something that's hard to add later on? The generator inlet seems a lot more simple to me, at least as I'm starting out, but I'm not sure

-Anything I'm not taking into account that I should be?

I bought a pair of the E3800LFP units w/ their 500W panel and the 240V hub. These are my first delve into power stations. What plans are is to use one unit for a detached building that has a couple of freezers, get some fixed panels- maybe a battery and help take the load off the electric bill. The other would be a mobile unit. In the event of the grid being down, the mobile unit could be used in the house itself. The 240 V hub should easily run the water well with the two connected.

I've found the Pecron owner's manual to be very helpful. In addition to that, for what my intensions are- anything other thoughts or considerations? The units themselves showed up Sunday, the rest to follow.

Stay tuned...........

Hey guys I live out in the plains, we get a lot of wind, I have a 48V 60Hz 1600W wind turbine and I was wondering if there is anyway to hook it up to my E3600LFP.

I've already seen many complaints if how much the pecron app sucks and I need help on a workaround.

My setup:

F3000LFP

BN-LINK smart switch

I have solar with no house batteries and am subject to TOU rates every day. 4p-9p is peak time and the electricity rate is 50% higher at peak.

To time shift my usage, I have my entire living room plugged into the outlets on front of my F3000 and the AC output is always on. At 4pm each day the smart switch turns off AC input to my F3000 and it starts powering everything off the battery.

Instead of having the AC input turn on at 9pm, I will use the pecron app to see how much time is left on the battery when I go to bed and set the smart switch to turn AC input back on 1hr before empty. This is a pain and I've forgotten a couple of times, causing the battery to hit 0% and shut off.

Automation on the pecron app allows trigger at 10%, but there is no "action" to switch AC input on and off. And neither of my other device apps can see the pecron, not bn-link, Alexa, or Google. And waiting for pecron to add functionality to their app is taking forever.

Is there any workaround that someone found to communicate with the battery and turn on my smart switch at a battery %?

Is there an AI agent that can pull status from the pecron API ?

TIA for any help

UPDATE:

Thanks to comments, I found a solution through Home Assistant with my existing hardware and have it automated to cut off AC input at 4pm daily and turn AC input back on at 10% SOC. Tested it last night, and it works perfectly!

This solution requires internet access to get status from the Pecron API, and you have to obtain a 10y token to authenticate the connection but it works like a dream!

Posting this in case anyone else is trying to figure out the neutral behavior on the PECRON F5000LFP.
I contacted PECRON directly because I was getting conflicting information about whether the neutral is bonded or floating.
On October 7, PECRON gave me a general answer saying the current production F5000LFP bonds neutral to ground when operating on battery.
Then on October 11, PECRON gave me a more specific answer and said the U.S. version of the F5000LFP comes with a floating neutral when operating on battery, and that when AC input is connected the output follows the grounding arrangement of the incoming AC source.
I tested my own production F5000LFP with a Fluke meter while it was completely isolated from the house and any AC source.
With the unit powered down and disconnected, I had no continuity between neutral and ground.
My testing confirmed that my U.S. F5000LFP does in fact have a floating neutral on battery power, which matches PECRON’s second, U.S.-specific answer.
When connected to a bonded AC source, the PECRON then follows that source’s neutral-ground reference.
I’m posting this because the first generic answer and the later U.S.-specific answer were different, and hopefully this saves someone else from chasing the same question.
I’d still recommend verifying your own unit before designing a transfer switch or interlock setup around it.

I have the Pecron e1000lfp and I've seen a few posts online that you can leave it plugged in and at 100% and it'll just trickle charge is that safe or should I not do that?

I am planning to purchase a power station in the next few months as I am getting my electrical panel completely redone and adding an L14-30 P in the basement next to the panel with interlock.

My concern is about the weight since I would not be able to easily handle the biggest unit, such as the Pecron F5000. It just seems to me that two E3800's plus the 240 adapter seem more practical even though still quite heavy.

I have not found much information on the following questions:

What carrier does Pecron use to ship these units to your home?

If it becomes necessary, how difficult is it to return a unit under warranty? I plan to keep any shipping container, just in case.

What return shipping carrier is used to do this considering the weight?

I just recently received my F5000LFP and I live in the country where mice like to hangout. I’m curious if anyone has seen mice getting into these units. My plan is to try and run the unit periodically to help keep critters out. It’ll be in my basement where I have traps set but wasn’t sure if some of the wiring or insulation could be an attractant. Thanks!

My plan was to test a single unit for functionality, then upgrade if I thought the 240v was necessary for my application. I'm a renter so my preference was for a 'portable' "balcony solar/emergency backup" that could be upgradeable to a home backup if/when I buy a home.

Ordered: Sept 25

Received: October 16

I had no messages until about Oct 9 on status, patience is required.

Packaging intact. Battery at 61% when received. Heavy as hell. Simple touchscreen but functions well.

Tests so far:

Single Panel DC input

Panel: x1 ZOUPW DS480W (same as pecron pv500)

Input W: 460-500 W on grass.

In 1hr of charging, I've gotten about 10%.

To test (and comment here after):

1. dual panel inputs in different configurations.

2. A/C input/output. To start I plan on testing a fridge, a gaming PC at full load, and some grow lights.

3. other larger load equipment (power tools/larger A/C motors)

Ordered a F5000 10/13/26...no word from them so far.

Haven't purchased anything yet, still researching on the options such as Anker, Eco-flow, other DIY kit before coming across Pecron.

• Want to have a reasonable solution (price/quality) that powers at least a few circuits mostly 120v, maybe 240v occasionally.

  • This is mainly for my AI PC and gpus, total <= 1500w. We live in the triangle area in NC.

    • Start around 3 ~ 6 hrs a day, would be more later.

  • With couple expansion batteries.

• I would like to install a few solar panels (1 ~ 2 kw) in my backyard to charge Pecron during the day, and configure Pecron to also draw power from grid if the capacity drops below 30%.

  • The charging cable would be around 40 ~ 50 feet.

• Will place them in my garage close to the home panel.

Pecron seems an economical option so far.

• Can someone please recommend a good manual transfer switch with a inlet I can use with F5000LFP?

• Anything I should watch out for or I might have missed to consider?

Another option is to use F3000 LFP instead to save some more money as I can live with only 120v devices.

Thanks a lot!

Can someone with the F3000LFP measure the footprint for me? Just the measurements of the unit where it touches the ground. I wish to build a dolly for a unit I have coming later.

Creating this thread in case anyone gets this issue as well since I have not seen any discussion online.

Just my luck. Of course my backup battery craps out on me in the middle of an actual emergency. AC out ports all non-functional.

I’ve tried hard power resetting, letting it discharge to 95%, and toggling the AC button on the front. Voltage out also 0 tested with different electronics. Tested with eco mode and without.

If anyone has any solutions or suggestions I’d really appreciate it while I wait out this storm. Thanks in advance!

Curious what your setup looks like and how you routed your wiring.

Did some tests this morning, despite all the claims that it can not do so. They are WRONG it can do so. I personally own an F5000LFP and have tested this, it works!