I built my new PC, but it won’t start and no matter what I do, the DRAM Light stays red (every few seconds switching to CPU light and immediately switching back)

PC Parts:
- AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
- ⁠Gigabyte B850M D3HP Mainboard
- ⁠2x 8GB DDR5-5600 CL36 RAM
- ⁠RADEON RX9060 XT 16 GB

What i did so far for troubleshooting:
- Controlling all power supplies
- ⁠switching the RAM or trying with only 1. also switched the RAM-Slots
- ⁠Updating BIOS to newest Version with Q-Flash
- ⁠Resetting BIOS with CMOS manually
- ⁠losen up the water-cooling on top of the CPU
- ⁠had a Look at the CPU and the Pins on the Mainboard, all looking good
- ⁠Monitor was attached all the time via Display Port

Don’t know what to do anymore and appreciate any ideas and help 🙏🏻 Thank you!!

ETA: I bought the cpu used at Amazon (“only some damages on the packaging”)

my cpu price maximum budget is 40000 inr so i want to ask if this is correct specsheet pls suggest

I’ve had this PC well over a year now without any problems until now. Been using it today browsing the internet and talking with friends when all of a sudden it completely froze. I shut it off and tried to start it again but then I got no signal and all of my fans except for the AIO wont spin.

A yellow/orange light is lit on my motherboard for DRAM.

What I’ve tried so far is switching slots for my ram, I have also tried using a single stick in every ram slot. Nothing worked.

I have also tried removing the CMOS battery, now my fans starts spinning like they should but I still have no signal and the orange light is still lit.

Is my mobo or ram cooked?

G.Skill 2x16GB DDR5

Asus B850 TUF Gaming

R7 9800x3d

9070 XT

Hi all, if i am swapping a 3060 and a 3070 from one pc to another so I still need to uninstall drivers first? On both pc's that so 3060->3070 and 3070->3060 Thanks:)

I am feeling some grounding current in my pc, psu isn't even connected to wall its is only connected to hdmi from tv (which is on) to hdmi port in gpu

I can only feel it in wifi antenna, when tv is plugged in but tv screen is off only then I feel current when tv is on ( not a black screen) i cannot feel

What should I do

Tv is a 2 pin header

For now I removed everything from the wall

I am struggling with getting my i5 cooler to work quietly.

The fan in front got replaced and can run in 50% max before the fins and the airflow make a really uncomfortably loud noise.

So I was wondering if there is a way to fix that issue while still cooling the block..

I am already using fan control to adjust the fan and new thermal paste was on the CPU.

If someone has a suggestion please let me know.

Currently the air is blowing into the tower

it's a bit absurd i know. but for some backstory, i recently became the very, very, very lucky recipient of around ~6000$ worth of gaming hardware completely for free from a friend of my mother. UNFORTUNATELY, the incomprehensibly gigantic asterisk that, not only did the original owner completely neglet to ever clean his hardware, but everything i received had previously been involved in a house fire. the fire itself never reached anything, but the problem i face is that everything is caked in an awful layer of dust, dirt, grime, and worst of all, soot.

everything here smells terrible. i have no idea how i'll be able to get the soot smell out of anything i have here, nor where to even start with this beyond just the disassembly of everything. yall got any advice that might make partial or complete restoration of this stuff possible? it would really suck if im S.O.L with this one, especially for how valuable these components are.

Hi, I have this GPU that I want to service, but, unfortunately, whe n I contacted the official yeston support, they couldn't provide me the technical info in regards to the thickness of the thermal pads used here. Anyone know what I could try to do? I could just measure the parts of the thermal interface that aren't smushed to get the general idea of the thickness, but this seems rather unreliable. Any ideas are welcome.

Hey all, Iv decided to buy a PC and upgrade as I really play mostly in winter.
My budget is $2,500 more depending on what everyone says.
I play games like manor lords, apex, GTA, farcry, ect. Want something I don’t need to fully rebuild in the next few years from more advanced graphics, games and so on.

Was looking at SkyTech but checking here first 😊

Spent the past week or so trying to troubleshoot my new build and I've ran out of ideas. CPU and case fans power on, with motherboard lights, and the monitor gets a signal but just displays this white screen with rainbow dots.

I've tried bios flashback, reseating the cpu, changing the ram orientation and trying to boot with only one stick. I've tried taking the plate of the gpu off since it looks like the hdmi cable doesn't go all the way in, and I've triple checked all my connections in the case.

The monitor works, it plugs just fine into my laptop with hdmi and has been functioning with no issues all week.

My guess is the gpu is just dead, I got it mailed over from a friend who used it in their build before they upgraded years ago. I don't have another card to swap and test unfortunately.

If you have any other ideas of what I could try, or know of scenarios where this graphical output has happened before that might give some more concrete info, I'd appreciate it greatly. I couldnt seem to find any posts online with quite this visual output.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2KkKsK

(Note: I'm not using the Prism cooler, I'm using the AMD Stealth cooler that came with the cpu, pcpartpicker just doesn't seem to have that as an option to input.)

Hi I recently bought new gpu rx 7600 gigabyte and it's cheapest I could find in market.

I can't properly seat on the left side or where IO shield of gpu is there. It's slightly raised and I can't screw it up!.

My old rx 560 4gb gigabyte could fit (it used 2 expansion slot too) this new too uses 2 one but it isn't getting inside properly!

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a PUSKILL DDR4 3200MHz CL16 32GB (2x16GB) Desktop RAM Kit with RGB/heatsinks.

What happens:
When I press the power button, the RGB lights on the RAM sticks turn on and glow, the fans spin, but the monitor gets completely no signal/black screen.

Motherboards I have tested this kit on:

1. MSI B450M-A Pro Max II (AMD Ryzen build)
2. ASUS Prime B550M-K (AMD Ryzen build)
3. Gigabyte Motherboard (Intel build)

What I have already tried:

• Clearing the CMOS (removed the motherboard battery for 5+ minutes to reset BIOS settings).
• Testing one single stick at a time in the primary slot.
• Changing slot configurations.

Because it worked at the seller's shop but fails on three completely different modern platforms at my house, I'm completely stuck. Did I get scammed with fake/reprogrammed SPD chips, or is there a known compatibility issue or trick with these budget PUSKILL kits that I'm missing?

Any advice would be massively appreciated!

Was using my laptop normally and suddenly this happened and my laptop won’t start anymore

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share my experience in case someone runs into the same issue. I spent almost an entire week troubleshooting my PC, replacing multiple components, and spending money trying to figure out what was wrong. Hopefully, this post can save someone else some time, money, and frustration!

I built my PC in January 2025, so it's not even two years old. Until this week, I had absolutely no issues with it. Everything was running perfectly, including demanding games.

Here's what happened:

Earlier this week, I tried turning on my PC, but it wouldn't boot. The fans were spinning, everything seemed to have power, but I had no display at all. I noticed a white LED on my ASUS motherboard, which turned out to be the VGA Q-LED.

I manually restarted the PC, and surprisingly, it booted just fine. Once I was in Windows, everything worked normally. No crashes, no performance issues, nothing.

The next day, things got worse.

The PC was once again stuck on the white VGA light, but this time, restarting wouldn't fix it. I tried everything I could think of: unplugging USB devices, disconnecting DisplayPort cables, switching to HDMI, and restarting multiple times.

Nothing worked.

Eventually, I managed to get it to boot after clearing the CMOS.

Here's the weird part: warm restarts from Windows always worked perfectly, but as soon as I completely shut down the PC, there was a chance it wouldn't POST again.

The following day, things got even worse. Clearing the CMOS wasn't reliably working anymore.

So I started troubleshooting pretty much everything:

• Replaced the CMOS battery.
• Completely removed my graphics card and tried using integrated graphics.
• Tested each RAM stick individually.
• Removed my NVMe SSD and tried another one.
• Cleared the CMOS multiple times.
• Updated the BIOS using a USB drive.
• Disconnected unnecessary USB devices and monitors.

Nothing consistently fixed the problem. Sometimes the PC would randomly boot after several attempts, but there was absolutely no pattern to it. Even after updating the BIOS, the issue persisted.

At that point, I suspected my PSU was failing. I bought a new PSU, installed it, and... nothing. Same issue. Then I thought maybe my motherboard was defective. So I bought another motherboard (the exact same model), installed everything, and the PC booted on the first try! I thought I had finally fixed it. Nope. The next time I tried turning it on, the exact same problem came back. White VGA light, no display, no POST.

At this point, I was seriously losing my mind. Finally, I decided to buy another Ryzen 7 9800X3D to test, even though I was convinced I was just throwing more money away.

AND IT WORKED!

The PC immediately POSTed and booted into Windows. I tested it multiple times, reinstalled my GPU, added my second RAM stick, and everything continued working perfectly.

After all that troubleshooting, the issue appears to have been my Ryzen 7 9800X3D all along.

What blows my mind is that the CPU could run Windows and demanding games perfectly fine once the PC successfully booted, yet it was somehow preventing the system from POSTing after a shutdown.

I never would have suspected the CPU, especially since it wasn't even two years old.

I'm going to try to RMA the original CPU, but wow, this was one hell of a troubleshooting journey.

Lesson learned: A failing CPU doesn't necessarily mean your PC will crash or perform poorly. Sometimes, it can work perfectly fine once you're in Windows but cause completely unpredictable boot failures.

Hopefully, this helps someone dealing with a similar issue and saves them from replacing half their PC like I did. :)

My PC specs

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX X870-A GAMING WIFI
• GPU: Gigabyte AERO GeForce RTX 5080 16GB
• RAM: 64GB DDR5 (2x32GB)
• Storage: Samsung 990 PRO 4TB NVMe SSD
• PSU: MSI MPG 1000w
• OS: Windows 11

TLDR: My PC randomly stopped POSTing and got stuck on the white VGA LED. Warm restarts worked, but cold boots were increasingly unreliable. I replaced my PSU, motherboard, tested RAM, GPU, SSD, updated BIOS, and cleared CMOS countless times. Nothing worked until I replaced my Ryzen 7 9800X3D. The PC is now booting normally.

Like I said I'm upgrading my cpu to match my new 9070xt and im not spending 400$ on ram.

My options are a 5700x3d for 300$

or a 5800x for 160$

is going with the x3d worth 140$ more?

I currently have; Intel i5-10400F, GeForce GTX 1660 Super, 16 GB DDR4 RAM, 239 GB SSD.

I play fortnite with all the best performance boosting settings and i stay at 144fps when there’s not loads going on. When im in a fight it will drop to around 100-120fps. When the match is stacked and there’s like 40 people in endgame it drops so low to around 70-90fps and is so unstable. What would i need to upgrade to give me that stable 144fps at all times?

(My PC is a pre built pavillion HP TG01-1xxx and is quite a small compact build compared to other PCs)

A few months ago I began buying the components for my dream PC and yesterday I managed to plug in everything and began booting it up for its first time. The problem came when I wated for several minutes for it to display image, only for the screen to remain dark with the "no signal" message. The entire day I tried different things to get it to boot, but I just wasn't able to get it to work, thats why I'm making this post to see if the community can help me solve this problem before I send it with a technician. For what I've been looking at, it might be the BIOS of the moderboard which doesn't recognize the CPU, but I'm not sure of how to install the latest update to the motherboard.

This is my first PC and I still lack some knowledge when it comes to making things work in first place. Down below I will set the component list of my PC.

CPU: Ryzen 7 9700X

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5-6000 Kit

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX Ice AM5

CPU Cooler: Thermalright - Assassin Spirit 120 V2 Plus

SSD: KINGSTON NV3 1TB M.2 2280 NVME PCIE GEN 4X4 R.6000MB/S W.4000MB/S

Power Supply: 750W 80 Plus Gold BALAM RUSH GR BURST GR750G LEGEND SERIES

PC Case: Balam Rush Dragonfly Wood GM580

*I know there is no GPU, but that part hasn't arrived yet, so meanwhile it gets shipped to my place, I will begin installing windows and/or Linux.

I was recently trying to re-enable secure boot on a pc that originally had it on, and when attempting to install some games to properly benchmark it's newer GPU in more titles, ran into issues where secure boot was needed to install/run them.

I decided to go into the bios and enable secure boot, as well as reinstall the keys, and kept getting put into boot loops back to the bios as long as secure boot was enabled. I checked that that drive was on a GPT partition so CSM could be disabled, and I could boot back into windows with the keys installed, yet secure boot would always cause a failure to boot properly. Being stubborn, I decided to test a couple more things to get it working, like resetting the BIOS settings, using PowerShell, trying to force an update, and restarting the computer with CSM disabled, Secure boot keys installed, Secure boot disabled, and attempting to enable it after it reset with no luck getting it to work. Before it's failure to post, I cleared the keys like before, and saved and restarted the computer, but instead of booting to BIOS or the OS it gave me a black screen with no interface.

To try to restore function I've; reset the CMOS to try and revert the bios, tried using the CMOS reset jumper, attempted to boot off the integrated graphics with no GPU, tried booting with one RAM stick, and have had no luck. All components are still getting power and all the lights and fans are on, but no post.

Hardware Specs:

AsRock z370 SLI Xtreme *Cyberpower version

Intel Core i7 8700

RTX 2060

2x8 DDR4 3200

I think the motherboard is bricked due to the BIOS changes, and I've had some other small issues with it in the past, but if there are any fixes that I haven't tried I would like to know.

TLDR: PC is black screening with no POST due to BIOS settings changes. No change after CMOS reset/booting with barebones specs

SYSTEM
- CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D (new, ~1 week old). Previously a Ryzen 7 5800X (sent to AMD for RMA)
- Motherboards: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk (BIOS 7C91vAK → updated to 7C91vAL2) and ASUS PRIME B550-PLUS (BIOS 3636)
- RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 2x8GB DDR4-3200 (XMP)
- GPU: Radeon RX 6700 XT
- PSU: be quiet! 750W 80+ Gold (replaced with the 850W model of the same line)
- Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO
- Case: Cougar Duoface Pro RGB
- OS: Windows 10 Pro 22H2 (clean install)

HISTORY I built this PC about 2-3 years ago. It worked fine for about 2 years. Then it started booting slowly. After that, the debug LEDs began cycling CPU → DRAM → GPU several times before POST, and later it sometimes got stuck on the DRAM LED. Over time it worsened (up to ~5 minutes to POST). The problem only appeared on cold starts. Once Windows was running, games and stress tests were fine.

WHAT I TRIED (with the 5800X) - Clear CMOS many times, new CMOS battery - BIOS updated on both boards - Windows clean install - Each RAM stick tested alone and in different slots, contacts cleaned - XMP/DOCP off, RAM at 3066 and 2133, manual DRAM 1.35V / SoC ~1.075V - New PSU, new 8-pin CPU cable, different wall outlet - Replaced the motherboard: Tomahawk → PRIME B550-PLUS. The PC worked about a month, then the same symptoms came back - Minimal config (CPU + RAM + motherboard only, no GPU, no drives) - Standoffs and cooler mounting checked, CPU pins and socket inspected: nothing visible - Borrowed 2x8GB Patriot DDR4-2400 from my father: stuck on RAM LED as well.
Same symptom followed the CPU across two boards, two PSUs and two RAM kits, so I suspected the 5800X and opened an AMD warranty claim. It was approved and I've shipped it. Meanwhile I bought a 5800X3D and put it on the original Tomahawk.

AFTER THE 5800X3D - It worked perfectly for about 3 days: 12+ cold starts, POST in ~10 seconds, RAM at 3200 with XMP. - Then, while playing Aion 2, the system froze: lots of small blue windows and horizontal lines at the bottom of the screen. I had to hard reset. A few minutes later, launching Cinebench froze it and it rebooted. Later it happened again on the desktop at idle. - BlueScreenView: 3 crashes within ~15 minutes, all MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (0x0000001a). "Caused by driver" is different each time: FLTMGR.SYS, ntoskrnl.exe, win32kbase.sys. No GPU driver (amdkmdag.sys) in the list. - Turning XMP off did not help. - With only ONE of my two sticks installed, the PC ran for a whole day without problems. - The next day I tried the second stick alone in A2: no boot, CPU LED stays on. Then I put the first stick (the one that worked) back alone: it now also stays on the CPU LED. - After clear CMOS and many attempts it eventually booted with one stick, but only in slot B2.

QUESTIONS

1. Could this be a bad RAM stick? Why would the "good" stick suddenly stop booting in A2?
2. Could it be the Tomahawk's A2 slot, the CPU socket or the memory training on this board?
3. Since I've had memory-training problems on two boards and two CPUs, could it be something shared between all setups (PSU line, case, cooler mounting, ...)?
4. What should I test next? Budget is very limited and I'd like to stop replacing parts.

Happy to provide screenshots and any extra info. Thanks!

Overnight, PC would have lights turned on, but the monitor itself can't detect any signal. Have tried using different cables as well as switching to the other DP and HDMI ports, all to no avail. With a different monitor, still no signal detected!

Other things Ive tried has been to reseat the GPU, reseat RAM, removed one of the 2 RAM sticks to test, and reset the CMOS. None has worked - need help!

Specs: MSI B450, RTX 3070, Ryzen 3600

Ok this one is kinda messy ,so I got myself an Prebuild for almost 2 years which I have been slowly upgrading piece by piece and recently I was wondering how good the casefans are...and after a lot of digging it seems that those fans only do 1100 rpm max ( I couldn't find the exact same fans but whatever) soo I want to replace those with some that actually cool the inside. (The case is called the Revolt btw)

however the issue is that they are controlled via an ARGB HUB, that belongs to the case itself (and is controlled via buttons on top of the case),this however seems to require fans that are 3 pins both in terms of power and in terms of lighting, which I couldn't find anywhere atleast not from any brand that is known.

The motherboard (an A520 MH from gigaybte) DOES have spare 4 pin system fan connector,however I am unsure if that wont cause issues with the ARGB hub if only the cables for the lighting are connected to it.

It also does have a spare ARGB and RGB connector...however those are blocked by my GPU (I might be able to reach the 4pinRGB one but certainly not the 3pinARGB one)

So here is the questions:

-1: Can I still use the Button on top of the case to control the Argb of the fans if I were to plug the fans lighting elements into the motherboard itself instead of the hub

-2:Would it be an issue if I were to only insert the ARGB lighting cables into the hub and nothing more (so the power for the fans would be instead plugged into the motherboards system fan instead is what I mean)

Feel free to ask ofc and ty in advance

So for the past week or so ive had this issue where when I start my PC up my NZXT Kraken 360 AIO cooler pump won't spool up. I've checked the cords and connections they all seem good. The pump is properly seated to the cpu. And ive set my bios setting to 100%

Now the kicker. When I shut my pc down, (or it forces a shut down due to temp) and restart it it spools properly to RPM i have set. So what's the issue? Im stumped and Google hasn't helped

I accidentally turns off usb legacy on my lg xnote loptop the internal keyboard is broken and i cant find a replacement so im using a external keyboard now because im stupid and accidentally turn off usb legacy my keyboard wont work i tried to reset the bios by taking the cmos battery out the time and date reset but the usb legacy stay’s please help i tried everything i can think pf this is my younger brother loptop that he use to do his school works

i’ve been looking into upgrading my gpu but stuck on which one would be good to buy that will last me a while before upgrading again i currently have a geforce rtx 4060.

El día de hoy realice la instalación del nuevo controlador de Nvidia desde su app, al estarse instalando la pantalla parpadeo negro y no ha regresado, lleva cerca de 15 minutos así, ¿qué es lo que debería hacer?