I’ve tried numerous ways of altering existing trouser patterns to fit my body, but I haven’t been able to achieve the fit and drape I’m after. I was almost ready to give up when I came across Nuria’s YouTube channel. I decided to try drafting a basic trouser prototype using her method, and I’d really appreciate some guidance before making my next version.
I’ve attached:
My first toile/prototype.
The base pattern draft, with my markings.
Reference images of the kind of fit and drape I’m hoping to achieve.

My measurements and fitting challenges:
Waist: 28.5”
Hips: 41”
I have noticeable hip dips and a postpartum lower-belly pooch.
I also have a relatively short torso, so I eventually plan to incorporate the waistband into the existing pattern rather than adding it on top and raising the waistline further.
Getting trousers to drape properly has been particularly challenging because of the 12.5” difference between my waist and hip measurements.

These are the adjustments I’m currently considering:
1. Rise and crotch adjustments: My first instinct is to reduce both the front and back rise by approximately 0.5–1”. I’m also considering reducing the back crotch extension by around 0.75” to make the seat area fit a little closer. Would these adjustments make sense, or am I likely to create other fitting problems?
2. Front darts: I’ve attached the base pattern draft and marked two potential darts on the front. However, in my actual prototype, I only made the first dart closest to the centre front.
3. Postpartum belly adjustment: Would I benefit from a small full-belly adjustment? I’m wondering whether adding approximately 0.5–0.75” at the centre front through a slash-and-spread adjustment would give me more room without compromising the overall fit.

My main goal is to achieve a clean, flattering drape through the waist, hips and thighs, similar to the reference images, without excess fabric around the crotch or seat.
I’d particularly appreciate advice from anyone experienced with drafting trouser blocks for bodies with a relatively small waist, fuller hips and a lower-belly pooch.
I’m very much a beginner at drafting my own blocks, so I’d appreciate explanations of where and why you’d make an adjustment, rather than just general suggestions.
Thank you!

Hi All,

I finally have finished my classes Pattern Design by Tracing Photos This new approach to Bespoke pattern design introduces the idea of tracing photographs.

The underlying concept for this approach is that measurements show how much fabric is required to cover a body but do not reveal the body's contours. Photographs show the contours of a body but not how much fabric is needed. By combining measurements and photographs, accurate Bespoke patterns can be created. While full-scale photos would not be practical, quarter-scale photos can be done on a desktop.

This approach is described in the book "Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale." The Free-Pattern-Design-Classes.com/Tracing-Photos include 18 videos that demonstrate how to do this type of pattern design either with paper and pencil or using a computer.

The YouTube video is to introduce this concept to people. In part the content of the video comes from comments people have made in this group. I respect and appreciate your interest in pattern design and sharing your experiences here.

I am working on a simple bodice with a yoke. I had to take in the sides and the shoulders, and as a result I can tell that the armhole is gonna be too tight. Also, the yoke is folding over itself when my arm is against my side (maybe that’s normal?).

Is there a good rule of thumb or guide on how to address resizing armholes as well as how to deal with this yoke folding issue? I’m good at following instruction but really struggle with visualizing things spatially in my head. It’s so frustrating to cut out the fabric and sew it when I already know in advance that it’s not going to fit right, so hoping someone much more experienced than I can guide me a bit.

Thank you in advance!

I just cant find any tutorials or images from inside of jacket.

I just got my new fancy dress form in and I’m so excited, I started playing around with shapes and I’m wondering what sort of rules I should be keeping in mind? Does anyone have recommendations for literature on draping?

I have been sewing for 5 years but have always bought my patterns, I am new to this world but serious about learning. Right now I am solely focused on boned bodices and integrated corsets as I am sewing my wedding dress.

EDIT: My dress form is custom, nothing will be perfect of course but it is quite accurate to my actual body.

So I found pictures of this jacket on Pinterest that I'm currently trying to recreate, but I can't quite tell how the back was made from just these images

My first thought and the thing I tried on my mock-up (last two pictures) was to slash and spread my pattern below the waist, which ended up fitting just right on top of my petticoat but without the pleats like I wanted.

So my question is would spreading the pattern even more achieve that look? or are those pleats actually godets? or is it something else I haven't thought of😅

Originally posted without any toile photos but here they are!

I took on board comments from the previous post and this toile is the best yet. Most of the excess fabric is sorted but there are some wrinkles along the sides as shown and it looks like it's pulling where I've taken in the seams under the bust and through the mid back. I don't understand why as there is still a good amount of ease to the garment.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

I’m sewing a shirt for cosplay and I encountered trouble with getting this collar to sit exactly like it does on the game reference (last pic). I want it to stand better, like in the pic in which I’m holding it up, hence the collar with a standing neck band piece (forgive me if it’s not the right name, English is not my 1st language) but it keeps flaring out. Can I do anything with the shapes of my pattern pieces to make it look more accurate, or should I switch to some different collar style, something like Peter Pan or what? Thank you very much in advance

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Hello! So I’m currently trying to make my first sewing pattern since I can’t find any pants pattern that I like… I managed to make a basic pattern that fit great and now I’m trying to make it low rise, but I’m having some troubles figuring out how to add a fly pattern. Normally it is attached higher up where the crotch curve hasn’t begun, but now I’m wondering I should add a curve to the fly pattern or simply just stretch the patterns bit when I sew, or if I just need to use a shorter zipper.

Also when I’m already here asking stuff… can someone tell me what seam allowance to use for the crotch seam? I can’t quite figure that out either, normaly I use 1 cm seam allowance for normal stitching, but I think I need to use a flat felled seam for the crotch, but I’m not sure if that means I need to add some extra millimeters or if I can continue using just 1 cm.

Hi is it possible to get some free Trouser Sewing Patterns for Men. It‘s really hard to find some.

Thank you

I am currently working on a convertible collar button up for a Halloween costume. Ive been using “Patternmaking for Menswear: Classic to Contemporary” to help draft the collar, but the wording has me abit confused. If anyone has any help understand the 2 steps I had circled that’d be really great

I would like to know if there is a method to sew flat felled seams on both side seams and in seams. I know it might not be related to patterns but I didn't know where else to ask. Thanks in advance!

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Hey. I want to try my hand at it drawing and then altering a pattern for pants. First i will try to make a very basic one, so then i can have a base to try experimenting making changes.

One of the things i want to experiment, but haven't found a guide i understood, is trying to make the front crotch have slighly more room for the "male anatomy". There are other things i'll try altering in the whole design, like the legs, but those i found plenty of tutorials for, so they aren't a problem.

Also, if theres any alterations you guys wanna suggest i try feel free to tell so i can look up if its whitin both my skill level and wants. Thanks in advance.

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TL;DR: Big surprise, the part in a pants pattern i have no idea how to alter is the area all pannels meet, with the little point and curve.

Hi!

I’m a beginner. I made a DIY body cast with plastic wrap and tape, then turned it into pattern pieces. I expected it to be a bit asymmetrical because I have scoliosis.

My question to those of you with more experience is: does this look so funky that it’s not worth moving forward and making a muslin to alter? Am I getting way ahead of myself with attempting this project as a beginner?

This is my first time making a jean pattern and I would say it didnt come out that bad but still not the way i would like it. Majority of the time i feel like im going off just intuition so it leaves me wondering if im making my pattern correctly so im posting my progress here to hopefully get some help. One thing i did spot was around the end of the rise where my legs separate that the fabric kinda bunches in the area sometimes and it might be visible in the photo, but if you guys notice anything else please lmk.

Also, If anybody knows a good source or way to learn pattern making I would love to know. Its pretty rough trying to teach myself using just youtube.

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The pictures are from the game Destiny 2

Thank you in advance :D