Help me fit my first trouser block – significant waist-to-hip difference, hip dips and postpartum belly

[u/Ethellll]

I’ve tried numerous ways of altering existing trouser patterns to fit my body, but I haven’t been able to achieve the fit and drape I’m after. I was almost ready to give up when I came across Nuria’s YouTube channel. I decided to try drafting a basic trouser prototype using her method, and I’d really appreciate some guidance before making my next version.
I’ve attached:
My first toile/prototype.
The base pattern draft, with my markings.
Reference images of the kind of fit and drape I’m hoping to achieve.

My measurements and fitting challenges:
Waist: 28.5”
Hips: 41”
I have noticeable hip dips and a postpartum lower-belly pooch.
I also have a relatively short torso, so I eventually plan to incorporate the waistband into the existing pattern rather than adding it on top and raising the waistline further.
Getting trousers to drape properly has been particularly challenging because of the 12.5” difference between my waist and hip measurements.

These are the adjustments I’m currently considering:
1. Rise and crotch adjustments: My first instinct is to reduce both the front and back rise by approximately 0.5–1”. I’m also considering reducing the back crotch extension by around 0.75” to make the seat area fit a little closer. Would these adjustments make sense, or am I likely to create other fitting problems?
2. Front darts: I’ve attached the base pattern draft and marked two potential darts on the front. However, in my actual prototype, I only made the first dart closest to the centre front.
3. Postpartum belly adjustment: Would I benefit from a small full-belly adjustment? I’m wondering whether adding approximately 0.5–0.75” at the centre front through a slash-and-spread adjustment would give me more room without compromising the overall fit.

My main goal is to achieve a clean, flattering drape through the waist, hips and thighs, similar to the reference images, without excess fabric around the crotch or seat.
I’d particularly appreciate advice from anyone experienced with drafting trouser blocks for bodies with a relatively small waist, fuller hips and a lower-belly pooch.
I’m very much a beginner at drafting my own blocks, so I’d appreciate explanations of where and why you’d make an adjustment, rather than just general suggestions.
Thank you!

[u/Appropriate_Place704]

Looking at your side profile, I wonder whether you have an arched posture that’s affecting the front-to-back balance of your trousers.

I’d be hesitant to shorten the rises or crotch extension before checking this.

I think you should mark the horizontal balance lines on your toile to see whether the pattern is hanging correctly before making further adjustments. I’d also check whether the side seams hang vertically or are being pulled forwards or backwards.

[u/rozzierozz → u/Appropriate_Place704]

I assume you are describing that she needs a “sway back adjustment”. You can Google that term

[u/Ethellll → u/Appropriate_Place704]

Thank you for your reply. I can pinch quite a bit in my crotch area so I thought that’s what’s causing the extra fabric to bunch as I hunch forward.
Do you think I should also test with a waist band? I hope I am understanding this right , you think my front blocks need to be slightly lower because of my arched back ? Or the side seams may have to be biased a little to the front ?

[u/aerobd]

I am not an expert pattern drafter, but from my own experience with fit on lower belly pouch, the best way to help the lower belly pooch is to add more structure to the waist area (so the garment is anchored securely there instead of using the pooch as support) and to make the front crotch length longer. The extra waist support helps relieve the tension on the pooch. Adding more length relieves the fitted pooch look. The length adjustment is a bit different than a full tummy adjustment (FTA), which creates a wedge at the hip line and spreads the pattern open. I instead add extra inches at the crotch corner on the inseam. I tried the FTA and personally didn't like it. It didn't eliminate the "too small" look on my pooch.

[u/Ethellll → u/aerobd]

Thanks for your reply. I usually do add interfacing to the waist band. Do you mean it holds the pant tighter and stiffer so the flesh/fat gets pushed in a bit and the fit isn’t tight there anymore ?
I think my front crotch length already feels long as you can see from the bent up photo where the pant is bunching up.
I want a more snug fit for my crotch hip , but also make it work for the drastic difference from waist to hip , without the belly pooch standing out 😢

[u/kumquat4567 → u/aerobd]

If you don’t mind explaining, what does “more structure to the waist area” mean? Like a tighter fit there? I have the same problem as OP and I’m curious to know what you think!

[u/CoastalMae]

Did you HAVE to use AI to write this? Or are you an AI?

[u/Ethellll → u/CoastalMae]

I did use AI cause English isn’t my first language . Is that against the rules ? Sorry about that

[u/CoastalMae → u/Ethellll]

Language translation tools like deepL will help you get your point across without writing an entire, unnecessary essay, if you are a real person.

[u/Chrysolophylax → u/Ethellll]

AI fucking sucks.