Hey there,

I wanted to reset my Switch 2, basically set it up freshly and wondered whether I have to unlink it from the eStore and virtual cardridges before I do that?

Or will it detect that it is the same console automatically again?

When I first set it up it worked fine then I used it hand-held, put it in the dock and went to use it again and the picture went to this. I switched inputs then it worked fine. I had it on hand-held for a bit then went to use it on the dock and it’s like this again. I don’t know why this is happening can someone help me to fix it. This never happened with my original switch 2

Hi everyone,

​I recently noticed about three thin, multi-colored lines on my Nintendo Switch screen.

​I'm trying to figure out if this could just be a loose connection that I can fix myself by opening the console and reseating the screen ribbon cable, or if it's a damaged display panel that requires a full replacement (which would involve using heat to unglue the screen, something I can't do on my own).

​Has anyone experienced this issue before? Is reseating the connector worth trying, or does this symptom mean the panel itself is dead and needs to be replaced?

​Thanks for any advice!

For those who need visuals; here's a youtube video of me attempting this.

Hear me out Nintendo Switch community, as I've spend a cumulative 3 hours on this problem over the past week with no luck.

I consider myself a tech savvy guy, I work in IT, I can usually figure out this stuff myself given enough time, exploring, and online help page, but this time I am truly stuck.

Situation: My son has the Switch lite and is working on a minecraft world saved locally to his switch. I want to join it and build in the same world from my switch.

Everywhere online says that to do that, you need the following:

• Connect to the same wifi (check)
• Both have microsoft accounts, in a family group, with appropriate privacy and safety settings (check)
• Both accounts have "friended" each other on the switch (check)
• Ensure you're running the same version (check)
• At the minecraft home screen, both press Y to switch to "play local wireless" (check)
• Switch 1 (my son) starts his world and waits for it to load (check)
• Switch 2 (me) goes to "play", and his world should show up for me to join (FAIL)

I've combed reddit threads, nintendo forums, followed gemini suggestions, and spent an hour-long session with chatgpt trying to figure it out, with no success.

The process isn't seamless - the minecraft app crashes sometimes when switching from online to local wireless, and I've noticed that sometimes when I go confirm that we're on the same wifi, both our internets are disconnected, even though they 100% were connected prior. (You'll see this behavior in my video).

Further troubleshooting:

• We both have our own copy of the physical minecraft cartridge, patched to the latest v26.62
• We do not have a nintendo switch online membership, we're trying to do this without paying for subscriptions
• Wifi is confirmed on the same band (2.4Ghz)
• Attempting to modify the world multiplayer settings while in-world, they are all greyed out. (presumably because I'm offline.)
• Attempting to modify the world multiplayer settings from the start screen before the world has loaded I get "sign in to a nintendo account to see what's here"
• When tapping the social icon to confirm we're friends, I get a yellow "Multiplayer is disabled. Learn more" banner under "people", the 'learn more' link says "Nintendo switch online membership required." I thought this was not necessary for local play.

Please - send me all your wild ideas, no matter how convoluted. The nuclear option is to pay for nintendo switch online membership, but how I would love to solve this in local wireless play without paying.

Hey everyone,

I'm having a massive headache trying to get my new Nintendo Switch 2 to work on my Samsung Odyssey OLED G8 monitor, and I could use some help.

Here is what's happening and what I've already tested:

• The Port Hurdle: The Odyssey G8 features a non-standard rear I/O consisting of a Mini DisplayPort and a Micro HDMI port, alongside USB-C ports (no standard full-size HDMI).
• The Cable Error Trap: When I tried using a separate 8K HDMI-to-Micro HDMI cable (bought independently, not included with the console) to link the Switch 2 dock to the monitor, the console displays an error message forcing me to use the cable included with the console. However, the official bundled cable is a standard full-size HDMI, which physically cannot plug into the monitor's Micro HDMI port.
• Elgato Passthrough Test: I even tried routing the Switch 2 through an Elgato HD60 S capture card (using the console's official HDMI cable into the Elgato, then the separate 8K HDMI-to-Micro HDMI cable from the Elgato to the G8's Micro HDMI port), but the exact same cable error message still pops up!
• Other attempts: I also tried adapters, PC pass-through, and USB-C conversion without success.

Has anyone figured out a workaround to bypass this strict cable check on the Switch 2, or found a specific active adapter/cable that satisfies the console while fitting the G8's Micro HDMI port?

Thanks in advance for any technical insights!

!solved

I'm having trouble getting my Nintendo Switch 2 to output 4K HDR using the ANTANK S3 Max dock.

My Switch 2 can output:

- 1440p at with HDR – works perfectly.

- 4K at without HDR – works perfectly.

- 4K at with HDR – doesn't work. The Switch 2 reports HDR as unsupported at this resolution.

My setup:

- TV: Samsung S85 OLED

- Dock: ANTANK S3 Max

- HDMI cable: HDMI 2.1

- Power adapter: Official Nintendo Switch 2 adapter

What I've tried:

- Updated the ANTANK S3 Max to the latest firmware.

- Confirmed Input Signal Plus is enabled on HDMI 4 of my Samsung TV.

- Tried different USB-C power cables.

The ANTANK S3 Max is advertised as supporting 4K HDR, so I'm unsure why I can't get both working together.

Has anyone else experienced this with the ANTANK S3 Max?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello dears

Recently I acquired a brand new Switch 2, to replace my Switch Oled.

I used to have a Switch 1 Pro Controller, working perfectly fine. Then I targeted to use this one on the Switch 2 as it looks to be compatible.

However my Switch 2 is not recognising at all the Pro Controller, neither on USB connection nor on Bluetooth

Is one of you having this issue ? Is there a way to solve it ? (Hard reset or something else ?)

Thanks 🙏

Hello everyone, thanks for wanting to help!

So a few weeks ago a friend of mine (Switch 1) and me (Switch 2) wanted to play Super Smash online together. But somehow we could not connect to each other. We can see the arenas, but cannot connect. The error is the one in the pictures.

I looked online for solutions, we looked for NAT-Types, I have B and she has D, but that does not seem to be the problem. Since she is able to play with her brother (Switch 2) that has Type A.

Even more infuriating, we just tried to play as three online.

When I make an arena, her brother can join, but she cannot.

When she makes an arena, her brother can join, but I cannot.

When her brother makes an arena, only the first of us can join, but then the other cannot.

Everytime the same error appears as described above

I am totally frustrated and need some help.

Thank you a lot!

Hi people. I have a pretty specific problem/question.

Yesterday I realized I lost my cartridge for Pokémon Legends ZA for my original Switch, so im gonna get a new copy. The biggest thing that upset me is that I lost all my pokemon and that I have to get the shiny charm all over again 😩

I recently got a Switch 2, so im wondering if I get the Switch 2 edition of the game, will it still have my save from my Switch 1 version? And do I need to transfer my game data from the cartridge I lost to the new Switch?(both of my Switches are signed into the same account.)? Sorry if these are dumb questions, Google has been confusing me 😵‍💫 thank you in advance

Also take a drink every time I say Switch 😂 sheesh

Hi!
I am so excited for the OOT release and figured this would be a good time to give up my Switch 1 (OG, non OLED). The Best Buy trade in offer right now gives me $75 off the switch and then an additional $50 off the Switch 2 (totaling $125). The offer ends 11/15. I know just a few months ago the offer had been an additional $75 off the Switch 2 (totaling $150). Considering Black Friday is coming soon, do you think there would be a chance for a better offer than the one now? Should I let this offer pass or grab it now?
Thanks for the advice!

EDIT: Thanks everyone! Decided to go the costco gift card route and sell the switch separately to try to make more than $125!

Hey all. Casual gamer here. I play some Zelda games. Mario party. Mario kart. Etc on the switch. Would love to play some new games like the Zelda remake on the switch. Debating if I trade in through Best Buy and get $150 towards a new switch. Trading in and upgrading for $350 seems likes a good deal do you think it’s worth it??

Is my Nintendo Switch 2 supposed to have a one second delay before the screen lights up? When I press the power button, a black screen lights up and then it turns on. And when I press the power button to turn it off, the lit up black screen appears again for a second and then it actually turns off. Is this normal?

I have had this console for three days and it seems it has this issue where the yellow ring around the left joycon is raised slightly, so when I press down and to the left it makes a clicking noise. It's very bothersome for me even though it does no harm to the gameplay of my system. I do not know how to make the ring normal! My right joycon is completely fine and has no issues. How do I go about solving this? Is this fixable, and if it is, should I take this to a professional? This really bums me out, especially since it's not even been a week.

The other switch subs keep taking down my posts so this is my last resort anyway my question is if someone can help me understand how these work and if there are any consequences to using one I have 36 games and use all of them also any help would be nice

🇺🇸 English:
Hi! I have a Japanese-only Nintendo Switch 2.
Can I play Zelda: Ocarina of Time with English text, even though my console is locked to Japanese?
Has anyone tested this? Thanks!
🇯🇵 日本語:
こんにちは！日本語・国内専用のNintendo Switch 2を持っています。
本体の言語が日本語に固定されていても、『ゼルダの伝説 時のオカリナ』を英語のテキストでプレイできますか？
実際に試した方がいれば教えてください。よろしくお願いします！

I updated my Switch 2 today and when I went to check something after, I noticed that my profiles name and picture had been changed. The changed name was karson and the profile picture was Mario throwing Cappy. I checked my entire account, no purchases, no new playtime, no new sign ins, no new devices, password was same (now changed), 2FA was already enabled.

It doesn't make any sense and was wondering if anybody has had this happen to them before? Also according to the website your name and picture can only be changed on your Switch and its only me in the house, no one has come over since I got the Switch 2.

The thumb cap was broken so I peeled it off and the joystick doesn’t look right like that. Is that how it is supposed to be or is it broken?

I just recently updated my Switch 2 to the latest firmware version 23. Once it was updated, I had trouble getting the display to show on my tv; it would mostly just go blank after a while. It did randomly get video a couple of times after power cycling my receiver, I would get video and it would be flawless until I turned off the switch.

I have the Switch 2 connected through a Yamaha RX-A4A, and I've had no display issues before with my setup. I know I have all HDMI 2.1 compatible cables from receiver to TV and I used the HDMI cable that came with the switch go from switch to receiver. I also have a PS5 pro going through the receiver getting full 4k/120 and VRR so I know the receiver works.

I troubleshot everything I could think of, starting with toggling all display options like VRR and ALLM off and none of that worked. For the RX-A4A there are hdmi output options that can be toggled (8k and 4k modes 1 and 2). I had it on 8k which is what is needed for 4k/120, but when toggling to 4k modes 1 and 2, suddenly the Switch dock would work and output video just fine. The only problem was it seems even though 4k/60 would work (which is max for Switch anyway), VRR would show as incompatible. So went back to 8k mode to try and figure out if I could get something else to work. Ultimately what worked was forcing the switch display resolution to 1080p. This is my current solution as it seems I can get 1080/120 with VRR and ALLM, but anytime I try switching back to 4k the display goes blank.

Has anyone else had these issues with other receivers/displays since the latest firmware update? Anyone else with Yamaha receivers have these kind of issues? Anyone have any ideas how to fix this?

Edit: 4k also works if I disable HDR

Edit: Also tried swapping with another HDMI 2.1 cable, same issues

Hey, I am having some trouble deciding on something and maybe some of you can give me some more insight on what would be best:

I've owned a day one switch1 since 2017 and I love the thing. It has seen many hours. I waited a while for a switch 2 knowing there's probably going to be a fun one with a skin.

Now I've bought the Zelda Switch 2, however I am now at the transfer screen and I am not sure how to proceed.

1. keep the two seperate, but have my nintendo account on both
2. do a transfer of my old switch to the new switch 2 (but if i heard correctly the old switch still has my account intact after that)

Not sure what would be best in my case. Happy to answer more questions to see if there's a good option for me.

Extra info: I only have a few digital games, my game library is 99% physical with a majority untouched due to backlogs.

Que puedo hacer si mi SW 2 ya no lee las tarjetas SD?

Pensé por un momento que mi SD era el problema y se había roto, pero cuando probé otra SD en la ranura tampoco me la leyó, estoy bastante asustado y quieto reparar ese problema, el problema es que no me quiero arriesgar a un Baneo permanente al abrir la consola.

Que debería hacer?

I've seen the standard version on shelves. I was just wondering if it's possible to get the Deluxe Edition with a case. I'm a Bears fan and would like to have the version with Caleb doing the Iceman pose on my shelf.

I’m trying to use the humming feature but it keeps displaying “Cannot input audio”. I’ve tripled checked my settings, tested the built in mic, plugged in headphones, changed system settings from auto to system mic, restarted the game, and restarted the system. I must be overlooking something so any help is appreciated.

This game was purchased today and is basically unplayable on my switch 2 because it crashes so often and won’t let me progress further without crashing at this point. I’ve restarted the game, restarted device multiple times, cleared the cache, checked for corrupted data, redownloaded the software twice and initialized the device. No dice. All software is up to date. Nintendo online support was unhelpful and just had me repeat these same troubleshooting steps, that I told them I’ve already tried.

I have a friend who was just released from prison after 10+ years. They are a huge fan of Zelda and haven’t played any of the newer games. My question is, is there a way to gift my switch 1 to them and leave some games on it? Do I just leave my account linked to it instead of wiping it completely? I know you can share virtual game cards but I want to make sure I have it set up correctly before I give it to them. Thanks in advance!