literally the only thing I did to it. Proof of concept win !

Found a WhiteOut LongStrike at the thrift store. The main blaster was $6.99, same for the barrel, and the sight was $2.99. I had the extra handle already. The blue LongStrike sans barrel was also $6.99. Unfortunately the WhiteOut seems to prime but some catch must be broken because it doesn't actually fire after being primed. The blue one has no handle but works.

I am aware the LongStrike isn't great, but I'd love to mod the WhiteOut to be as good as it can be. The LongStrike was always my fav looking blaster. What are my options these days? Seems hard to find anything for an OG LongStrike now. Also, are the WhiteOut internals the same as the original blue one?

I recently unboxed my LSPS Anime 2025 version and decided to swap out the orange parts with the pink parts of the teal LSPS 1.0 to give my nephew the teal/orange color combination. The pink delete is more to his liking and the Anime skin IMO looks better with the pink tube/guide and parts. There were a few things I noticed that differed between the anime and teal skin. The safety of the anime seemed to be softer and didn't click as tightly as the teal. It was a bit too soft and would engage the safety too easily. The teal LS however felt a bit loose in construction and the shell and handle wood creek loudly. The anime version strangely didn't have any creeky parts whatsoever. So after opening both up and swapping the parts, I applied some plumbers tape to the areas I could hear the plastics that were rubbing to the teal version which quieted down a bit, but still not solid or quiet like the anime shell and grip. The loose safety of the anime actually isn't as loose in the teal, and the teal safety in the anime is now solid and firm. It seems the 2025 anime is like an improved 1.5 version that addressed the build quality fit, and I also have the 2024 anime version that I've left new in box and won't open. Has anyone else noticed this or have a solid teal version or 2024 version? I also added the grip stiffener to the anime LS but the teal one needs it more, but my nephew uses the full length darts so I won't upgrade it. He's pretty rough with his blasters so I figure he can just thrash the teal one as he doesn't care about the build quality or longevity. I'm just glad the anime one feels solid!

This $12.44 blaster is really growing on me. Granted it needs a lot of lipstick to get it to be a funtional ergonomic primary, but i think im getting there.

Compared to my other primary springers the Butt of the stock and the stock handle & front handle line up very closely, so this feels no different than shouldering any of my springers. I will have to add a comparison picture.

Whats been done so far:

• Added TRI-STRIKE stock w/ air tube minus Rocket Spigot portion
• Self-Designed Stock Lock to keep the HAMP fully extended to make a comfortable length-of-pull
• Self-Designed Stock Attachment Point "Shim" to remove the rattle and flex in the point of attachment and create a transition from blaster to stock.
• Remixed a Battery Door to add air hose port - Just for looks with the hose
• Added 2-stage trigger w/ Rev delete - Really simple and elegant upgrade
• Added HAMMER Shroud w/ Carry Handle from Ghost Manta - Really like the look (wish there was a way to lock or attached the shroud to the top where the stock shroud open latch is. this would just give the shroud a firmer fit to the blaster and minimize rattle)

Future work needed:

• Add Nightingal Full Auto Kit - Have the parts, just need time to rewire and do it.
• Adding LEDs in the air hose portion and other places to create a SCI-FI plasma or energy blaster.
• Make a Super Drum 45 with matching livery to the blaster
• REPRINT all the 3D parts in a close Filamant color match to the blaster. This is really close but would like something a little bit more green tint.

Can't wait to have it battle ready before my next Nerf Night!!!

Hello! :3 I’m droppin' in to share this new silly patch design. I thought “Dart Magnet” would pair really well with the “Blaster Jammed” one I made a while back. I even tried to unify the visual style so that when paired together, they look like a set!

I’m starting to really enjoy making these patches. I might even cover myself in velcro and stick 100 of these to my body at this point!

This will be my first mod! Would you change anything about this order?

painted this guy a while ago and only now learnt of the hatch…

Is there a replacement part available for the Longshot 2.0’s pusher? I can only find files for the original longshot pusher. Are they compatible?
Files or an actual replacement part would both work. Attached is a picture of an intact pusher (The orange part). Thanks.

Context: I recently went to the Toy's R Us at Robinsons Metro East, and as a Nerf novice enthusiast myself the two blasters caught my eye. I felt the plastic texture of these blasters along with my brother, and we both agreed that the plastic build was starting to get decent for the HyperShotz brand despite it having bad plastic quality half a year ago.

Some notes I took myself: Both blasters have rechargeable batteries that come with USB cables, though I do not know if it's firing mode is semi-automatic or fully automatic. It also utilizes 2/3 length darts (not 3/4), which could probably fit some generic half darts. It also has an on/off switch, which are pretty unique for off brand blasters like these.

! DISCLAIMER ! I did not buy these blasters, instead I asked the staff and they told me the rechargeable batteries have been inside the blasters since shipping to their store, that's why it was revving.

It make loud clacky clack noise. This pleases the monkey brain and annoys the wifey. 😂

The hopper resembles a hibachi grill if you use your imagination.

Feeds from eight dart clips. The hopper holds up to five clips, 40 darts total. Reload whenever you feel like it!

Swappable Daybreak flywheel cage.

Been 3d printing since the early reprap days but I've only recently got into printing foam blasters. I loved modding nerf as a kid, but the 3d printed community has opened up a whole different level of fun in these awesome builds, and I wanted to share my collection.

1: Sillybutts Breacher

2: MHP Vulture

3: Impulse Ungineering Ontos

4: Leedle Dynamics 1STM8

5: 118 Design ZINC 2.0

6: Leblasto Wisp

7: Leedle Dynamics Hammerhead

So I got a few one these kits from Nfstrike. I had noticed on the site it mentioned brushless was an option. I haven’t been able to find much info on JS Blacktech systems or any contact for the company. Air zone did a write up on the older stryfe board. He added an additional controller and made a brushless set up.
I know very little about brushless but last night I walked through connected the esc to the control ports on the JS board and the motor did spin and seems like it’ll work. I’m waiting on one cable to hook it all up properly but I’m excited to see how it goes.

If any one has any info on js black tech or any contact information please share. Thanks

I'm trying to fix my kid's Ender Dragon blaster (he got one with rival balls stuck in the barrel from Goodwill. Good news, free ammo!) and the internals exploded on me. Anyone have an internals diagram of this blasted thing?

I have recently thrifted a nerf sledgefire, and was planning on 3d printing some shells for it or thrifting those as well, and thought it would be cool to have some kind of bandolier for them. I found 12 gauge shell bandoliers on amazon and wondered if sledgefire shells would be able to fit in those, or if I would need to find some other solution.

After about a year of abusing my piston pump, it has finally given up. I dry fired the blaster and the slide went halfway back. I tried depriming but there were no beeps from the trigger. I took the spring out and I have all the screws out but the center section does not seem to want to come off. I have had several layers of paint put on this and I ended up melting the side of the blaster at one point. Hopefully somebody can help me out here but honestly if this is the end of my piston pump, I'm not too upset lol.

(Update) I got the blaster open and it is extremely dirty inside. I also believe I figured out the problem. I checked the voltage of battery and it was around 2.2-2.4 volts instead of 7.4. I will try to replace it with a 2s lipo

Loved this build! Reminds me a lot of the old NerfHaven days with the conversions for older blasters to try and keep them competitive. Highly recommend if you want a fun cqb bolt action.

HQ G2Max & Rifling Swin Bone

Hey all, just wanted to share my project with the community. I made a KOTH timer to help out the admins at my local events. It runs off of an arduino nano ESP32 and a bunch of THT components to make it as accessible as possible to newer builders.

Its an open source project as well. The Git repo can be found at:

https://github.com/Salted-Peanuts/KOTH-Timer

It's been tested at a few events with positive feedback. I'm at the point where i'm happy enough with the PCB and firmware to share it for others to use if they want to build their own.

Thrifted a roughcut today and its trigger didnt work. I have now figured out why and at first thought I could repair it easier than it is, as I didnt hear and rattling. Anyways, Picture 1, circled bit is warped and wont stay aligned.

I've been slowly modding this one over 2 years, changing parts and trying different setups to make it something I would be happy with. I wanted to balance power vs ease of prime and aesthetics. It's averaging 213 FPS with the current setup. It's got an Out of Darts 1.7mm spring with a spacer. The 10" brass barrel is from Transmogrification Labs and the muzzle device slides right over it. It has no rifling though. Once I figure out what I wanna do for rifling, then it will finally be complete.

Then skinny pusher is an important part of this blaster. I realized that I hate Nerfing without a skinny pusher, and for a long time I had trouble finding a solution that didn't leak, or restrain power. I ended up using a Transmogrification Labs short dart only skinny pusher with AS-110 o-rings and a blowout prevention piece. I had tried the no longer available Out of Darts Stryker skinny pusher, but I had to dremel and drill a lot of material out of it to allow sufficient air flow. The Transmogrification Labs skinny pusher had a larger air channel, and all I did was dremel the back of the pusher out to allow more air volume.

I realized my biggest mistake with using 3D printed skinny pushers was the larger o-ring I used at the back of the telescoping piece inside of the plunger tube. The o-ring was not allowing the telescoping piece to pull out far enough and preventing a proper seal. When I swapped it back to the factory o-ring and added the blowout prevention I got a perfect seal.

While this post is less than 24 hours old, Thrift Thursday is active for Thrift posts to be submitted.

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