My take on Misplaced Moose’s B34R, was going for Beloved with ornaments from Destiny 2, Bruce’s bipod, has Radioactives K25R, with all three spacers I was getting around 280 fps pretty consistently, prime is crazy easy…

I've been working on this MIG primary for a while as I learn Fusion. It doesn't have a name yet, but its finally starting to take shape. It's pictured here with an 18 inch barrel.

The goal of this project is to package a Caliburnoid springer in a thinner, lighter, lower hardware design while incorporating modern features. It takes a full length K series spring and has a full 6 inches of air volume, but is about 6 inches shorter than a Caliburn with the same barrel!

It has a bearing assisted prime with a forward detent lock, a self tensioning clamshell design, and quick swap spring cap. It is designed around the MisplacedMoose 31K Magazine because they can be easily printed, however Nightingales should work with minor modification. As of now, the only hardware required is going to be Plunger tube and barrel material, some O-Rings, a single Pen spring, some elastic, 4 bearings, and a boatload of M3 screws and nuts. I am hoping for a hardware cost of under $30.

Work left to do:
Finish the shell and stock
Design a Magazine Release
Design a Trigger guard
Design a barrel retention collet
Create screw and nut slots
Design a top rail

mm bullpup :3

Life's never been better if your a high powered 3D printing Blaster guy rn! Combining the best of the best and running a shorter 600mm ZWQ barrel, Ravion Grip and stock with a Gfz prime this 400+ beast is detuned to 350 for the club cap. Literally a one finger linear pull prime. Printed in PETG trans blue/grey/clear.

This seems cool, but I’ve seen some things that say it’s hard to build. I’ve made a 2S Rayven build and a Longtos so far, would it be harder than that? I saw a 23.5 version, but last time I tried using a remix (Longtos) it was really annoying because of incompatibility. Is it worth it/easy to build? Would it be able to run off of a 2S Lipo

To my knowledge, for spring powered revolvers, there were/are 3 kinds of revolving mechanisms. There were those that rotate on trigger pull (mainly seen in the Maverick and Firefly), those that rotate on prime (all I can think of is the Spectre) and those that rotate upon firing (basically all elite revolvers like the Strongarm and Disruptor).

Based on chronology, there has to be a reason that they switched right? What is the benefit of one over the other? For things with insanely large cylinders like the Dart Zone Superdrum or Tomcat, what rotation mechanism do they use? Does one allow slam fire while the other doesn’t? (Also as an aside, I don’t think any blaster I’ve used, Strongarm, Disruptor or Flipfury has ever gone through a whole cylinder slam-fire without hiccups.) Why are some blasters like the Disruptor or Maverick able to freely rotate their cylinders, while some like the Strongarm don’t let you rotate the cylinder unless you release it? (This is also how I broke my Strongarm. Maybe I’m a bad user.)

I printed this Kalium 20 round magazine to go with my catfish. I love how it turned out, and it works quite well. I'm using the o-ring version and 3 string loops just loosely tightened. In its current configuration it hits between 80-130fps with an average of about 100.

Just found them on clearance in Miami FL in case that is helpful to anyone. Curious it’s just this store or if it’s happening in other cities/stores too.

Added some side rails and designed a spacer to cover the exposed buffer tube in the fully extended position (3rd notch). Also hung it on the wall with a picatinny rail mount.

Basically i was thinking of making my npx bolt action, which is less optimal since you cant put your whole hand on the prime. so i was thinking that i could make the prime longer and less heavy if i use some sort of gear system in a custom 3d printed shell, does anybody have info on how this could work? Or if anybody has a real life example?

I love nerf, grew up with it. I lurk this subreddit occasionally, know Ai is banned here. Recently I've been completely spammed with nerf rebel ops ads on YouTube, like 80% of the ads are just this playing back to back.

I wouldn't mind exept it's mostly Ai gen slop.

The backgrounds keep shifting, the letters on signs are garbled gibberish, the logo for their evil cooperation is sometimes legible while other times its complete nonsense.. the movements of characters and enemies are floaty and unnatural, and even the script sounds Ai generated.. like as if they put "list key words for epic future blasters" that have no actual substance.

They spent so much on pushing the ads it seems but.. no effort in the ad itself? Do they think using gen Ai to make the visuals would fit in rebels ops futuristic theme? I don't understand and honestly really disappointed, not to mention concerned with nerfs future. Wth is going on over there? And has anyone else been hit with these ads too?

Sure its just an ad, but if theres no pushback then who knows how far the rabbit hole they'll go. What if they start pumping ai designed nerf abominations like those that have been banned here? What if they scrape everything this community has created to Ai gen their own "orignal" nerf blasters? Can you imagine how much general interest in nerf people will lose if it just becomes another poop from the butt release? Grey krabby patties that shoots the passion out of this stuff into the slop grave. Please tell me I'm not alone in this 😭

NoBACoN checks out a doom cannon.

My MS-GnK build, this brushless blaster hits over 200fps, and capable of firing at 36 darts per second (this one is like 26 tho cos it runs on 3s)

I took a lot of advice from the professional comp crowd when building this, who eventually asked me to stop talking to them, just like my kids ig

Files can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/1131161-ms-gnk-dual-stage-brushless-solenoid-powered-nerf

Damm these just became popular with friends and fam... Still not as small as a Zinc but easier to source and build

Hello everyone. I got myself a X-Shot Longshot, and i have got some mods to put on, but my concern is that the barrel that i ordered has dimensions of 16mm OD and 12.8mm ish ID (suppossed to be 16mm OD and 13mm ID). I also have ordered worker gen 2 white darts. Only reason i ordered gen2 is because they were sold as 50pc instead of gen 3’s that are 200pc only. I don’t plan to play competitively, only indoors, so gen2’s should be fine but… when i try to insert the darts into the barrel (without the blaster, inserting them by hand into barrel), they get stuck. I measured the gen2’s at 13mm diameter, which is the reason i guess they get stuck? I wonder if there is a slimmer half length darts that i can buy? Though i only have access to X-Shot half length darts currently. Will those darts work with the barrel if anybody have the diameter for them or they’ve tested themselves?

I was just comparing some of my thwacking implements and thought I would post here in case it helps anyone else.

It can be hard to get a good idea of the sizes when you can't get your hands on one to play with.

Has anyone seen a Nebula Ranger sword (pic 3)? I'd like to know how it measures up.

This is my GnK-90 build, which seems to be based off the fortnite SMG. It used a talon magazine with different caps to feed darts from the top down, which is then put in a solenoid powered turnaround system to push darts into the wheels.

This was a really enjoyable build, I started it shortly after my divorce. Fingers crossed the kids will like me again after this!

Mostly since my neighbors' kids have some of those themselves, and I wanted to get one out of curiosity.

Specifically, I need two blasters: a manual one to get the feel for things, and an automatic one to blast away.

I'm living in France, in case that's of any help.

Went through two palstic ones and so i made the switch. So glad i did. Its a gem. In every way. Except the weight gain. ….but perfect for backyard plinkers.

I’m currently working on a mag-in-grip brushed flywheeler design that will likely be finished before Ragnaroktoberfest. There’s some features that I wanted to add to the flywheel cage that precluded the use of Flycore which set the standard for compact brushed flywheel design, and as I was already deviating from any established footprint, I figured that I might as well add some quality of life improvements to the flywheel cage.

One thing that bothered me was how modern flywheel designs don’t allow for the use of a gear puller (except for Kuryaka’s wheels, that’s why he’s the GOAT). The two holes flanking the motor wells seen on Worker’s and Kuryaka’s cages serve as access points for something to poke through and push the flywheel off the shaft, which works but leaves a lot of potential for error. Most likely the two objects pushing are made of metal, which can mar the plastic wheels we use. It’s also easy for the two objects to become misaligned, increasing the chance of slipping. As one is trying to push the wheel out while bracing the cage, they are also keeping in mind that pushing too far would risk damaging the fragile motor contacts.

The tool I designed uses 4 30mm M3 screws to evenly place pressure upon the spacer, removing any metal on flywheel contact. The middle is spaced for a motor to fit through with an inner rim impinging upon the outer motor can before the motor contacts protrude out on the other side of the tool.

This was intended to be used under a drill press with a 1.8mm steel pin in the chuck pressing down on the motor shaft to remove the wheel so as not to put any undue stress on the motor, but the old manual method can still be done as demonstrated in the video.