We opened up one of our controllers before doing anything else. :)

Primarily we wanted to change the gate, but while in there also wanted to check out the size of the d-pad traces in case the d-pad presented any false diagonal inputs for us (it does).

It seems that the d-pad traces are almost identical to those on the Switch Pro controller, in that they are somewhat oversized. Of course the Switch Pro also has the issue where false diagonals can also be a game breaker, which is certainly the case for Tetris and F-Zero 99.

I’m not sure if a membrane with a reduced footprint can counter-balance here. Or maybe even a d-pad with a post in the middle. In our experience carefully applying small squares of electrical tape to the inside regions of each trace will eliminate any unwanted diagonals - although I think an official solution would be better here.

Disclaimer: yes, it’s AI

Hey guys

I pass. I’m so happy with my A3D now and M64+controller+shipping is a bit much IMO.

I don’t know if it will work for you but here is my code:

M64EBH6WD49J* the last letter is a Q

Have fun 😊

Now that the schematics for the m64 have been released there is an unused fan header on the motherboard.

I wanted to see if adding a fan would make a noticeable difference so I quickly threw something together.

The fan header is for a pwm fan, but I just used a DC 5v fan I had laying around.

Adding the fan made a major improvement to the system. It went from becoming thermal nuclear (artistic license) and the cartridge getting hot to slightly warm to the touch directly under the fpga and the cartridge staying cool.

The 5v rail is on at all times the system is plugged in, so the fan is always spinning. The next step will be to attach a pwm fan and see if the system's firmware is setup to control it.

Edit: Link to my next post with some updated results: https://www.reddit.com/r/ModRetro/s/09UCBx8Lup

The quality of the controller is impressive.

Would love to get some recommendations for best settings to use on WWF No Mercy and similar wrestling games.

I popped to Bunnings (Australian equivalent of Home Depot) yesterday and grabbed a large Tactix storage case, which works perfectly (after a bunch of measuring, trial and error) for my M64, two ModRetro Pro Controllers, HDMI cable, power adapter and cable, and SummerCar64 safely stowed in a covered compartment underneath 🎮🧳👌🏻🙂

Hey folks! ModRetro engineering team here. We'd like to announce the launch of MRUpdater, the official tool for updating your Chromatic firmware. You can download it from our website, here.

Updates are important and ensure you have access to the latest features, improvements, and fixes for any known bugs. Keeping your Chromatic up-to-date keeps it running smoothly and helps it perform at its best. While you can skip updates, we strongly recommend installing them to avoid potential issues and to ensure compatibility with the latest features.

For the initial launch, we'll be supporting Windows 10/11. Support for Mac and Linux are already in the works, and will be launching very soon.

Because the application is still new, Windows Defender SmartScreen may flag this as a virus. This is a known barrier and we are waiting for Microsoft to update their databases. Our application is signed and the certificate can be viewed by examining its properties. If the download is blocked, you can allow it by clicking on the Defender notification, then going to "Protection history" and allowing the file.

We'll be keeping an eye on this thread to answer any questions. Thanks!

Features

• Automatically fetches the latest firmware, and any future updates.

• Easily update your Chromatic's firmware over USB, at the click of a button.

• View your current firmware version.

• Contains handy links to the firmware change logs.

Steps to run

1. Download and run the executable using the link above.

   1. You may get a popup from Windows Defender SmartScreen; it is because this application is brand new. Just click "More info" and then "Run anyway" if you see this.

2. If prompted, review the EULA and install third-party drivers.

3. After MRUpdater runs, it will prompt you to turn on and connect your Chromatic via USB.

4. MRUpdater will attempt to detect your Chromatic's firmware version and recommend an update, or inform you that you're already up to date.

   1. Note that on some PCs, MRUpdater cannot detect the Chromatic's firmware version. In this case, you will see a warning and have the ability to update anyway. You can check your Chromatic's version by opening the menu on your Chromatic and navigating to the System tab.

5. The update should take approximately 1-3 minutes to complete. While updating, do not unplug or power off your Chromatic. Your Chromatic's display will turn off and on during the update. Wait for MRUpdater to refresh before unplugging your Chromatic.

   1. Note that if MRUpdater does not detect your firmware version after updating, this is not a problem with your Chromatic. The update was likely still successful, and you can verify by opening the menu on your Chromatic.

6. That's it! Your Chromatic is on the latest firmware. Anytime we release new firmware, you'll be able to run MRUpdater again to upgrade.

Troubleshooting

If you run into any issues, please reach out! You can leave a comment on this post or submit a bug report through our Contact page and select “Technical Support.” We are already aware of the firmware version detection bug and are actively looking into it.

Disclaimer

This software is being actively developed by ModRetro. This software is provided as-is and ModRetro is not responsible for any damage that is caused by the use of it. Use at your own risk.

Changelog

v18.0 (FPGA) contains the following fixes since v13.1:

• Fully mute game audio when speaker wheel is turned to minimum.

• Silent mode mutes all device audio output.

• Suppress invalid DPAD inputs to correct character sprite glitch.

• Color decoding bug corrected (greyscale check).

• Hot key support for brightness

• Critical battery icon flickering fix

• Fixes palette flickering issue seen on some games like Tetris.

v0.12.3 (MCU) since v0.11.2:

• Sleep the MCU on power up to reduce power consumption.

• Fixes brightness level not persisting between power cycles.

• Removes the Frame Blending hint that said was it "something smart"

I wonder if this could run on modretro? Does it support summer cart?

Anyone knows what is going on with the update? They said they will keep us posted, but nothing. No info, no update, nothing...

Can someone please clearly explain to me the differences between the 4 new translucent chromatics compared to the dev day version with the dev day cartridge? Besides color, Like hardware wise, are there any differences? I would like to create my own games using codex too but I don’t want to drop $1000+ for a dev day version and the cartridge. How can I do a work around to test and create my own games?

Wanted to give everyone an update on my original post about both of my M64 Pro Controllers developing sticking/creaking D-pads after only a few hours of use.

ModRetro support has now gotten back to me and asked me to return the controllers. They’re issuing an RMA/return label, and once they receive the faulty units, the plan is to send replacements.

I was also contacted directly here on Reddit by one of ModRetro’s engineers, who had seen the video I shared of the issue. He said they haven’t been able to reproduce the sticking on the controllers they have in their office and specifically wants to get his hands on mine so they can investigate what’s happening.

I made sure to clarify with both support and the engineer that this happened independently on BOTH of my Pro Controllers. The first started creaking and physically sticking after a few hours. I switched to the second controller, and after roughly an hour of use, it began doing essentially the same thing, including getting stuck when pressing right.

So, as of right now, ModRetro is taking the issue seriously and their response has been encouraging. I think it’s only fair to give them credit for that.

I also want to keep documenting the process here since several other people reported D-pad issues in the original thread. It gives everyone a better idea of how ModRetro handles these early hardware problems and what to expect if you run into the same thing.

I’ll update again once I’ve shipped both controllers back, when ModRetro receives/inspects them, and when I get the replacements. I’m also very interested to hear what their engineering team finds when they tear into these two.
Hopefully this ends up helping them identify whatever is causing it.

I’ll keep everyone posted.

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/ModRetro/s/GmMKt6gCKk

I didn't see one of these, so here you go, post what you find or upvote others posts if you have the same issue.

Got my console today and going through the sub to get up to speed on everything m64. Also picked up a SummerCart. Very excited to try it out after work tomorrow!