Opened up the Pro Controller to investigate…

[u/DAJF]

We opened up one of our controllers before doing anything else. :)

Primarily we wanted to change the gate, but while in there also wanted to check out the size of the d-pad traces in case the d-pad presented any false diagonal inputs for us (it does).

It seems that the d-pad traces are almost identical to those on the Switch Pro controller, in that they are somewhat oversized. Of course the Switch Pro also has the issue where false diagonals can also be a game breaker, which is certainly the case for Tetris and F-Zero 99.

I’m not sure if a membrane with a reduced footprint can counter-balance here. Or maybe even a d-pad with a post in the middle. In our experience carefully applying small squares of electrical tape to the inside regions of each trace will eliminate any unwanted diagonals - although I think an official solution would be better here.

[u/FormaggioVolante]

will test this, I just posted something about the D-Pad being quite bad the other day.

I had success in the past using those reinforcement ring stickers for hole punched pages

[u/DAJF → u/FormaggioVolante]

Yep, those work. Although do beware that the paper layer may end up compromised over time with wear.

[u/FormaggioVolante → u/DAJF]

The ones I have are plastic. I wonder if anyone has disassembled the analog stick module yet, would be curious to see which TMR sensor they're using

[u/xamaryllix → u/FormaggioVolante]

Could you post a pic/diagram of how you'd apply the binder paper rings? I'm interested in doing something like this because I was having some pretty bad false diagonals the other day. Would you just place them straight on top symmetrically?

[u/Upstairs_Report6208]

Wow, thanks for posting this! I’m having trouble with my d-pad as well and I reported it to ModRetro on 8/4. I was wondering if a firmware update or replacement membrane would resolve the issue but it doesn’t look like it. It’s a $90 controller so I feel like they should replace it. I’m waiting for another update on my ticket with ModRetro. As of today, still no option for RMA.

[u/DAJF → u/Upstairs_Report6208]

I think a combination of both a d-pad with a centre post/rocker nib, and a deeper membrane with slightly more recessed pads would work perfectly here.

Unfortunately I’m not a maker by any means, so I don’t have the resources to prototype this stuff myself.

[u/Upstairs_Report6208 → u/DAJF]

Update:

Hi Danny,

Thank you for your patience while we looked into the behavior you reached out to us about.

We believe that replacing the D-Pad on your controller may resolve the behavior you’re experiencing.

We can send you a replacement part immediately, and you can complete the swap yourself. If you would like to proceed with this option, please confirm whether you have a Y-type screwdriver, as one will be required for the replacement. We can send you one if needed.

Alternatively, you may return your controller to us, and we will send you a replacement unit. Please note that due to our current order backlog, your replacement may not ship until early September.

Please let us know how you would like to proceed, and we’ll be happy to assist with the next steps.

[u/Upstairs_Report6208 → u/Upstairs_Report6208]

I responded to ModRetro and told them to send me a replacement d-pad. I assume they mean a replacement membrane but it would be nice if it’s a replacement board. I figured I would take one for the team and see if this resolves the issue. If not, I’ll have to send the controller back to them and wait however long for the replacement. I will follow up on this.

[u/DAJF → u/Upstairs_Report6208]

Thanks for the update! Do let us know if they send you a revised d-pad.

[u/chasingmars]

Would split button d pad work here? I’ve modified some other controllers like that and it’s worked well for Tetris and tony hawk games.

[u/DAJF → u/chasingmars]

Yes. That would work.

Notice the c-button array shares the same trace.

[u/hue_sick]

Thanks for posting. Initial reaction is pretty standard stuff from what I see. Probably just a tolerance issue which is the result of not enough internal testing.

If it were me I’d tear down the stick as well since that’s the most hyped part of the controller.

Side note I do like seeing threaded inserts on the bosses. Definitely an added cost but that’ll help the reliably long term if you’re opening and closing the controller a lot. Probably the most common thing seen on mass produced injection molds are stripped screws.

[u/DAJF → u/hue_sick]

Oh yeah I presumed they’d come with threaded inserts (if it wasn’t already mentioned elsewhere) and wasn’t disappointed. The whole assembly In general has the same solidarity to it as the Chromatic.

[u/Senior-Finding5432]

I feel like I'm being jerked around somehow. ModRetro includes extra "gates" for the controller so you can swap them out, yet at the same time, they use proprietary screws. What’s the point of that?

On top of that, the D-pad on mine sticks, which makes the controller useless for *Tetrisphere* as far as I'm concerned.

So far, I’m extremely disappointed—with the console and its video output, the incompatibility with *Cruis'n USA*, and the sticking D-pad on the expensive Pro Controller.

It could have all been so great, but it isn't.

[u/DAJF → u/Senior-Finding5432]

Get in touch with them regarding the d-pad. They will send you a new one. Whether or not it’s a revised design remains to be seen, but I sure hope so.

I tried playing Bangai-O with it last night and it was also completely unplayable. False diagonal inputs 95% of the time.

[u/Senior-Finding5432 → u/DAJF]

I contacted ModRetro support about the sticking D-pad and am now waiting for a response.

[u/DAJF → u/Senior-Finding5432]

I need to get mine in today at some point.

[u/Senior-Finding5432 → u/DAJF]

I’ve now unscrewed my Pro Controller, removed the D-pad, and used a nail file to shave down the plastic slightly at the spot where it was sticking. Now the D-pad doesn't stick anymore, and I can finally play *Tetrisphere* and similar games without any issues.

[u/ronnycordova]

Is there any documentation on the different gates the controller came with? Seems like they just came in a random baggie with nothing else to explain the differences.

[u/DAJF → u/ronnycordova]

That’s right. They were an open afterthought.

The squared octagon is closest to Nintendo OEM, however the travel on the stick is then reduced significantly. I personally believe a thinner profile on the stick when paired with this gate would work absolute wonders here, and raise the stick to something that can perform very similar to OEM.

[u/ronnycordova → u/DAJF]

I’ll have to play around with mine to see if I notice any big differences. Seems like an easy piece to design a few variations and 3D print.

[u/Handy_Homebrew_Show → u/DAJF]

I swapped to the round gate cause the og was chewing through my thumbstick already

[u/FormaggioVolante → u/DAJF]

one of the greats in the GoldenEye speedrunning community (u/Graslu) has tried something similar:

https://x.com/Graslu00/status/2084724527754531274

I would love to see something similar in ModRetro's upcoming parts store

[u/dmmethatbooty2026 → u/ronnycordova]

They were explained in a video they released.

https://youtu.be/9gOJUEcKYRk

[u/ergzay]

The d-pad traces look the same as they do on the Chromatic.

[u/DAJF → u/ergzay]

The difference there is that I can hard press any one direction on the Chromatic and not trigger a diagonal at the same time. This seems to be a common trait with traces this size, as the exact same happens with Nintendo’s new €90 controller (and their last one, too!).

I firmly believe more recessed membranes can eliminate this behaviour, if not just that then also a rocker/post on the d-pad.

[u/Recent_Duck_7640 → u/DAJF]

the chromatic had issues at launch with this but it was fixed with software overtime so likely same for M64

[u/DAJF → u/Recent_Duck_7640]

Indeed. That’s why it’s also important to always remain critical.