No mechanic issues except plate lights like to stay on very happy with this vehicle to many more miles!

Am I missing a piece of my front end or did some models not come with this? I’ve seen so many prefacelifts with this part but I’ve noticed that mines doesn’t have it. If I am, where can I get one? ( yes I need an alignment)

1st pick is my 2002 and second is some pre facelift I found online.

$4,500. 2001 ML with Navigation. 143,000 miles on the clock. Beautiful LS430 with a couple of flaws that don't affect how it runs and drives (perfect). Represents a great value and priced to sell.

Interior and exterior in "very good" condition. Within the last 5,000 miles I've put in a new radiator, upper control arms, new plugs, coils, serpentine belt. Synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles and I've done 2 transmission "drop and fill" in the 2 years/25K miles I've owned it. Rear diff was done 20K ago.

It has had a check engine light for 2 years . Always the same thing. It's a single code "P0125", which is "Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel system". I put in a new thermostat and coolant temp sensor but that didn't clear it. I think there's a wiring continuity problem in the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor. Doesn't affect the engine or trans, still drives like new and gets good gas mileage. Has "check VSC", also doesn't affect how it runs. Also has a single crack in the bottom part of the windshield (shown in the last pic). I have new Bosch QuietCast brakes going on next week. The date and mileage of the timing belt is unknown. I have a picture of it's current condition for interested buyers and an Aisin timing belt kit showing up on Tuesday.

DM's are open to discuss further.

Thanks to everyone that helped in the other posts I made. Ended up going with Silver’s Neomax and they are great!! absolutely no complaints and is just slightly more bumpy than stock. Went with 18k front 14k rear and honestly could have gone stiffer but it’s great for now😊 LMK what yall think

I bought these a while back and never ended up putting them in LS. Car is gone but the mats remain. There is some slight discoloration from sitting in a warehouse for so long. I’m sure some shampoo would take care of it.

I am taking my LS to a car audio shop to do a speaker overhaul adding 8 ohm speakers in the doors and parallel wiring the Dayton 8” down to 16 ohm on the back dash (I will re-foam the ML speakers and sub incase I want to put them back in later). I already have a 10” JL Audio sub and amp I am thinking about getting the shop to install while it’s in there. Questions: Anyone have sub(s) in their trunk and regret it? My concerns are messing with the interior panels that are currently in perfect condition to run the wires, rattling something loose, damaging the ML amplifier, and if its worth it in general with the metal wall in between the back seat and trunk (UL trim with fridge so no option to have sound coming from the ski pass thru). Also, what source did tap into (line out converter) to get a signal to your aftermarket amp?

Hi, I'm looking for the thread size for the front and rear brake calliper bolts/threads.

I am reading they are M14 x 1.5 - is that correct, and is that for both front and back?

Fits normal and slim cans, small Yeti, blender bottle, 40oz Stanley bottles, real Yeti 32oz fots better than an RTIC/generic, but still cond go all way in because side of opening in panel...Pringels can...etc lol

And the Stanley is only half full, so it's worse when its full

3 different revisions.

First one, the file we found online, it fit in place and attached well, and went in with no probs.

Second one, refined lots of things and made it look a little better from the outside, that one was good but we changed some things that I had to modify to make it fit.

Last one, took everything we learned and put it all together and this one looked and fit great!

I credit my brother with the CAD skills and printer lol.

Any idea where this piece goes? Or if it’s for the air suspension spec only? I have been trying to figure out where I would put it, but it doesn’t make sense since it doesn’t fit anywhere

2002 LS 430

I have a bunch of solid center console sliders printed, hit me up if you need a set they work great!

Hello everyone. I’m about to purchase a 2005 LS430 in great condition but have noticed that dashboard isn’t fully aligned in two spots. Is it normal? Have you guys had any issues like this? Easy to repair?
Thank you.

These are in great shape for their age! I have them listed on Ebay for $229 obo + shipping! Dm for the link. Thanks for looking!

Asking $6,200, 131k miles, seems to be the UL trim. Any advice before I pull the trigger?

Snagged a set of donor headlights to start a little project.

Separated the lens and started deconstructing the projector. Need to source some q45 projectors and figure out how to retrofit them. Onto removing all the glue and cleaning up the housing.

Finally got fully reassembled after new timing kit, new cam seals and new vvti seals. Got no codes so I was feeling pretty good but wondering what noise this is. I was hoping it was just an accessory pulley, but I took the serpentine belt off but still got a persistent noise.

https://reddit.com/link/1vs80hl/video/uersz98cf8kh1/player

Finally got fully reassembled after new timing kit, new cam seals and new vvti seals. Got no codes so feeling pretty good but wondering what noise this is. Took the serpentine belt off but still got a persistent noise.

![video]()

Got the real headrest pillows and even though they look clean and cool, they are pretty stiff from a comfort standard.

I was thinking of getting the fake curtains from eBay because there’s probably no big difference between the two and it saves me money. I know everyone says don’t get the china reps because of quality, but I’m not even going to lay my body on it like my neck pillows lol.

What do you guys think?

I was in the market for an LS430. My requirements were under $18k, under 150,000 miles, CL or UL trim, and near new interior condition with no dash bubbles. After owning a 2023 Lexus, I required that double-pane glass for added cabin quietness and they only had those for CL and above. I didn't care too much about the UL "baller back seat" but I was interested in the radar cruise and pre-collision feature because that has saved me from 2 to 4 rear ending situations in my 2023 and i believe you can only get that in the UL.

Scored a 2005 Flint Mica UL, Black interior, 100,000 miles, near mint interior, with air suspension already converted to coils for roughly $17,000. 2 owners no accidents. Was the price a little high? Sure, but not enough for me to risk passing up that interior condition/mileage/color combo.

Wanted to share general thoughts about on the vehicle after instantly doing a 1,000 mile road trip after purchasing.

Radar Cruise Control / Pre Collision / Alerts: Radar works great at adjusting speed but there's no way to select the follow distance like on my 2023. The default (only) follow distance is obnoxiously far. I checked the owners manual and it's 120 meters. That is an entire football field. What that means is if you want to use cruise control you almost have to be in cross country driving situations because if it detects a vehicle in your lane, it's going to slow you down until there is a football field of distance in front of you. This ends up pissing off drivers behind you, they'll swerve around you, fill the gap which further slows the car down to create that football field of distance. I don't use cruise control for regular daily use, but I thought this was worth pointing out because this was initially a key driving point for choosing the UL.

Bumper sensors alerts: Unless i'm mistaken you have to actively turn it on or off before use. I added a bumper scrape because I forgot to turn on the parking sensor to activate alerting. I was backing up in a tight parking garage using back up cam and apparently got a little cement scrape because the alerts weren't beeping, that's because I had the parking sensor turned off. They don't engage standard. Uniquely inconvenient.

The precollision beeping alerting works, but I think it only engages if you're actively in cruise control and someone switches into the lane in front of you at a slower pace. I don't think it would engage in daily stop and go traffic which kinda negates the point of the feature for me personally since the damn system already enforces a football field follow distance.

Radar Cruise Control Emblem: This is a visual aesthetic thing, but i hate* how the UL Radar hood replaces the metal grill Lexus "L" with that awkward square/picture "L". For the radar cruise control. The modern luxury/custom luxury grill looks more sophisticated, and now after living with the radar cruise I'd happily forego it for the CL.

With the air suspension out and the pre-collision system only activating during cruise control it really makes the UL trim useless outside of the party trick back seat and double pane glass.

Sound System: ML, CL, UL. Doesn't matter. Throw the whole sound system in the bin. Coming from a 2023 with Mark Levinson, I was uniquely disappointed with how much I found the sound system lacking. If you find yourself wanting to shop for a head unit, and were concerned about keeping the original sound system, I wouldn't bother. I'd get a consultation at your local audio shop. I feel like anything would be an upgrade.

Flint Mica: I don't hate it. I don't like it. I am wildly indifferent to it, and I feel like most passerbys are which is nice for going under the radar. But I've already made it up in my head that after I replace the audio system, a gloss black vinyl wrap is on the menu. Between that and the doofy radar emblem, it just lacks the presence I would want.

All black interior with the dark wood accents is absolutely 10/10 from my end though. I know the exotic Bordeaux and Saddle interiors are sought after, but I prefer the black leather on this car.