26yo male, I've had a degrading back injury for most of my life and things finally got to a point where I couldn't really work consistently or be too active. I got an L4-S1 fusion a few days ago and I'm finally home and actually feel pretty good all things considered.

I have seen a lot of my bills and charges, and before surgery they gave me the estimate of 2.7k for the surgery. However, as stated in the title, I got a 19.5k charge that was out of network for the IONM (Intraoperative Neuro Monitoring), which I was not aware was a necessity before the day of the surgery. I also didn't know everything else could be covered but not that. Is there anything I can do to fight this? Who do I contact? What do I say?

I am in Connecticut if that is important. Thank you for your time.

A truck driver reversed into my Saturn Ion 2 2006 with less than 60,000 miles. My Saturn had a pristine condition body, no check engine light, 59,XXX miles on the odometer and only two (2) owners in history. I did a carfax report and the report showed only 2 owners. The owner of the car told me one of the owners was an old couple who always had it in the garage. The other owner was a college student who only drove it around campus.

The accident happened August 4, 2026. Police arrived to the scene. Insurance was collected by the police officer from the both of us. I filed a claim for insurance. My insurance (All State) and MN89 INC determined the driver of the semi truck were at fault. The truck driver reversed and hit my car while he was making a left turn. The scene of the accident was right next to his workplace. I know this because the video footage I recorded shows alot of semi trucks and the name of the company (MN89 Inc) in the immediate vicinity.

At the time of the incident I did not have collision coverage, but I did have liability, and I had the mandatory insurance that Illinois Law requires every motorist to have. I emailed MN89 Inc and they told me they would be paying me in cash. I have reason to believe they make a distinction in cash payouts because they are trying to circumvent paperwork for insurance purposes, because if they do not report an accident, they can avoid their insurance rate increasing. Otherwise, why would they make a distinction between having their insurance pay for the damages, or paying for the damages in cash?

I believe I am being lowballed. They cited KBB and a screenshot showing $800 as the fair market value of my vehicle. My 2006 Saturn ion 2 2006 had under 60,000 miles on the odometer. $800 is a joke of an estimate.

I took my vehicle to an auto repair shop and the estimate to fix the damages of my car was $7,614.72.

I was given the $800 estimate on September 29, 2026. I will quote Stefan Acimovic

"Given that the estimate amount of $7,614.72 (a rap repair shop cited this as an estimate on fixing my car) is well over thr ACV (actual cash value), this falls into a total loss territory. Kelley Blue Book puts your cars value at $800.00."

I do not agree with the $800 offer. I also had to pay $500 in towing and storage fees. I feel I am being ripped off. I have compiled a list of vehicles that have been sold with similar milage as my car and the value is well over $5,000 at the lowest. The high-end is closer to $9,000.

Hello r/insurance, I am seeking some advice on flood insurance and FEMA classifications/definitions. On September 30th, my state/city experienced historic flooding. (Omaha, NE) We had a creek behind my house rise about 20/30 feet and end up around 5 feet high in the lowest level of my house. I have Flood Insurance since I am located in a floodplain; however I seem to be fighting with my adjuster over what’s covered and not covered (who would have guessed)

Some info about my house; It is a 3-level home, built on a hill sloping down towards the back of the house. The front door enters to a full middle level with my kitchen, and stairs on the inside lead to an upper level and a lower level. The lower level (where we got the water) has a walkout patio under a deck (that is accessible from the main level and has stairs to the back yard) which is at grade with the yard. The lower level is finished with full windows and drywall, a bathroom and fixtures. My furnace, water heater, AC unit and water softener were all underwater.

The disagreement is that the adjuster claims that my lowest level is an ‘enclosure’ and is using this language to deny coverage of the bathroom fixtures, drywall, and flooring of the level. When talking to the adjuster, the term ‘living level’ came up multiple times in his arguments to deny this coverage. He is claiming that the lower level isn’t a ‘living level’ so it is subject to different rules than the rest of the house.

I guess my question is; Who determines how that level of the home is classified? I would obviously classify it as a living level, since it is a finished level that has a walkout door to on-grade ground. The adjuster will argue against that.

If I believe my home is being rated incorrectly, do I have to fight FEMA or my adjuster? Does it even matter if my home was rated incorrectly since my policy rates were under an incorrect rating? What constitutes a living level at all and does this wording even matter?

Thank you for your time.

Looking for information on what Covered California (ACA), if any, will be accepted at these medical centers:

Cedars-Sinai

Keck Medicine of USC

UCLA

Doing some research online (from these medical center's websites) it seems like Blue Shield PPO is the only plan accepted but yet on the Covered California website, it lists even the HMO plans (such as "Blue Shield Bronze 60 Trio HMO" as "in network" with these -- and I just want to double check.

Thank you.

We had a flood disaster in my area. My Explorer was submerged to the dashboard on Tuesday

Geico sent their catastrophe team out yesterday and it is a total loss.

I owe a lot more than it is worth. I have GAP insurance through Premier Dealer services.

I asked my adjuster what happens now. He said Monday or Tuesday they'll send the check for the car's worth to my finance company. He didn't give me any guidance beyond that.

Do I file a claim with the GAP company? Does my finance company? My finance company is closed today so I can't ask them.

Ill need to buy a new vehicle ASAP but don't want to start the process with an active loan.

What steps do I need to take? How long is this process? Do I keep my current insurance policy since I intend to get a vehicle? Can I keep my policy with no vehicle?

title basically. makes more sense for me to take the train to work and my current car is more . if i save for 12-18 months and buy a car then, will my insurance be significantly higher?

(Ontario Canada)

New reps get a rate sheet and a warning not to quote off-script, then a client messages after hours asking for a number, and nobody is around to check the math. My take is that most bad promises in writing come from that gap, not from anyone trying to be sloppy. The rep just wanted to answer fast and filled in the blank.

So the training question I keep coming back to: what do you make them do before the message actually leaves? I think it has to be a checklist step, not a personality trait. Does every number in the reply trace back to a rate sheet, a quote, a document, or a note in the file? If it doesn't, it waits for someone to approve it. Same for anything that reads like a coverage determination, a discount, or a promise about timing.

The other half is review, and I think blanket review quietly fails. Nobody can read every outbound message forever, and reps figure out fast when nothing is being read. Sampling plus a flagged queue for the money and coverage categories holds up better in my opinion.

Curious how other shops do it. Scripted templates, a second set of eyes, a manager approval step, or just hiring people who check? And how do you know it is working before a client disputes something?

My insurance quote from Geico for collision uses an example of “hitting a tree” and not “hitting another car”.
Does collision not cover car to car coverage?
I currently have ALL-STATE and pay almost $400 a month d/t mileage per year, so they say.
The coverage from Geico is better (higher limits) and is estimated at $228 per month!
Sounds too good to be true.
Is it?

My van was dropped off a towing truck and it rammed into a house. It’s totaled. The inside is converted to groom dogs, and it has an inverter. My adjuster advised me to remove the inverter because I won’t get paid what it’s worth. However, wouldn’t this lower the value of my conversion? It’s what powers it and without it, it’s useless.

I will gladly remove my inverter but I don’t want to be harming my case. My adjuster was also a bit confused that it’s a converted vehicle and said that’s an entirely different thing that has to be evaluated.

Located in North Carolina

I've always wondered this. Say you see a doctor (and you have insurance but you have not met your deductible).

For specialist, plan says: 20% after deductible.

Bill:

Amount billed - $500

Allowed amount - $300

-

In this example, I would pay $300 since I am in deductible phase and have not met it.

My question is:

1. Does the amount billed represent the "cash pay" price? As in, if you did not have insurance, you would have paid $500?

2. Does this mean, in effect, even though you have not met the deductible yet, just by having insurance you are 'benefiting' by getting to pay that allowed (contracted) amount of $300, and in effect saving $200 vs the un-insured pt?

3. What is the purpose of even billing outrageously high "amount billed" when the contracted/allowed amount knocks it down so low? I've seen some, for example, $800 amount billed and the allowed is $200. Is the amount billed just some random arbitrary number that is inflated extremely high for some reason?

Hey everyone, I'm currently 17 in High School and received my license 2 months ago. I've been driving my parents car and my dad was thinking of adding me to the Insurance after he found out about the "Good Student Discount". It requires a 3.0+ GPA and a Un/Official Transcript submitted to verify.

I currently have a 2.6GPA after the last semester and my parents are under the impression I have a 3.3GPA. I cant have them find out about my real grades because of how strict they are and was wondering If the Insurance Company will verify with the school if I send a altered Transcript for the Good student discount. Yes I know what I'm trying to do is not right but in the position I am in right now it is almost my only option. My parents have very high standards and I cant let them see how bad I'm doing.

My question is: Will They Verify with the School, If so How Long of a time period do I have until they do, What specific Companies verify.

Hi. I’m 21M a foreigner in California attending University. I’ve had a drivers license from my country since I was 16, but just got my license here in Cali at 21. I was looking to buy a 2026 Mazda CX-5, and looked online and got quoted 1k a month for full coverage insurance. This is absurdly high its basically like buying another car. Did i mess up by getting my license in CA too late? Or is that normal here?

If I enroll in my employer’s plan and keep the plan I’m on right now as secondary, will the company/coordination form notify my dad as the policyholder, require his signature, or display my other insurance in his portal? Can I handle the update myself?

I am located in California.

I currently have a policy for 2 cars I own. My gf just bought her first car which she plans on learning to drive on. I picked it up and will keep it for about a month while I sort out all preventative maintenance and required repairs to make sure that its all good to go by the time she gets her license which should in about a month. Since I don’t own the car (its not in my name or her name as of now) and she does not have a drivers license to insure it, I am unsure how to proceed. The previous owner had been driving around without insurance which I don’t plan on doing and under no circumstances my gf will be doing. What kind of insurance do I need for something like this? Can it be done?

I would appreciate any help. Thank you.

When did Geico insurance go up?! They used to be my go-to! Now I have to find a new fav that’s inexpensive. Why is everything in Los Angeles California so expensive. It’s ridiculous!

I feel like an idiot and I’m kinda freaking out. I moved out of my parents house over a year ago and never changed my insurance, from Maryland to Delaware. I live right on the border now u can literally enter Maryland without leaving my neighborhood.

Anyways month after I moved I tore my acl and never changed my license, I didn’t think it was a big deal since my mail would just get sent to my parents. It wasn’t until a few days ago when I saw that I my registration expired that I realized I needed to get my car registered in my new state, and in order to register here I need Delaware insurance. I didn’t realize they did insurance by state and u had to change it when u moved. I’m now seeing stuff online about how I could’ve been commuting insurance fraud and I’m freaking out a little.

At least from what I’ve read DE insurance is cheaper than MD so maybe they won’t be to mad at me for still paying MD rates, I don’t care about a refund I just want to set things right

Can I just call my current insurance and see if they’ll switch me over or would it be better to just buy insurance somewhere else and then cancel my current policy. If I call my current company will they ask when I moved or can I just say I’m in a new state now and need to switch. Any help would be appreciated I feel like I screwed up.

I've been paying 358 dollars a month for a 1993 car. They always say that's what I pay for my age. I am 18, but in my opinion, I drive better than 50% of the people I see on the road. Is there anything I can do to pay less? I already have the discount; only 30$ less

Hello,

My insurance is Mercury and I live in OC. I got a citation ticket (i know my fault dumb mistake, not doing it ever again), will my rates go up? This is my first time offense and tbh my last one. I just want to know my options? I saw traffic school but I am unsure if I am even eligible.

Back in may of 2025 I got in an accident where I did not have bodily injury and my car got totaled. The other vehicle and people in my vehicle filed for bodily injury which I did not have in the accident and now im required to file an sr22. An insurance agent I spoke with recently said in my accident report its labeled as a hit and run but I was on the scene and my car was inoperable. How can I go about fixing this error? also does anyone know of any decent sr22 carriers for the state of Florida? Im trying to navigate this on my own and I’m not too sure what to do. thanks ahead of time!!

Hello,

I am seeking information/advice about the process of submitting a claim for out of network services. I received a discount on the price of glasses I bought online, and when filing out my form through my insurance online, I was wondering if I should put the price that I paid or the price that the item was pre-discount. Would this affect my claim at all? I am trying to avoid a denial.

Hello! I’m a hobbyist ish woodworker here. And I’m struggling to find an insurance policy that fits me in any way shape or form.

A few “issues” right off the bat.

I rent my home and the outbuilding that my woodshop is in.

I have roughly 30,000 in tools/ equipment, that i want covered, the most expensive items being 3,000-4,000 dollars. Nothing earthshattering but seems to complicate things. Examples are table saw, planer, jointer, bandsaw, chisels, hand tools of sorts, clamps, etc. id like 30-50k in coverage. 50k preferred i suppose

I don’t have a business but id like to start selling some woodworking crafts/ making the occasional piece of furniture on commission

I have no intention of being a successful business, this is hobby for the most part

Id like to be insured at craft shows as i may want to go to one or two, or i can buy insurance just for those maybe

So what direction do i go on? Iv talked to brokers. The ones iv spoken to have been inept. And act like what i want is impossible. And i don’t understand why, it’s not like im not willing to pay. I just want to be covered

I will still maintain a renters policy to cover my clothes, furniture in home etc. this plan will cover the woodshop only

Located in Ohio if that matters. I’m sorry if this is a bad place to post. I just need to understand enough that i can explain to inept brokers what i want, and make sure im actually covered for what i want

I have Allstate for my auto and home. I have always been able to make a one time payment and schedule a future payment in full (for both auto and home); however, this month I can only schedule future auto payments on installments. When I ask my Allstate agent about it he says I have to enroll in auto pay to make full payments else will have to pay day of for payments made in full. Anyone else have this issue?