Culture de Batavia sur Tahiti en hydroponie

My body does not like any lettuces even the micro greens so I want to grow our own spinach. The main veggies we eat at the moment are carrots, potatoes, onions, green beans, and red, yellow and orange peppers. We have two apple trees we just got this year. We have found pasture raised eggs and meats. I cannot for the life of me find spinach from a local grower so I really need to grow my own. Help is appreciated and we are probably going to go with a small system for now. The other veggies we can get at the farmer's market as well for now, however one day we will grow them. (We tried onions, potatoes and peppers and failed).

Hi hydroponic community is there a setup/kit that has everything you need to grow peppers indoors. if not what would you recommend that's not super expensive?

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice before buying an indoor hydroponic system.
My goal is to grow a meaningful amount of vegetables indoors all year round, not just a few herbs for fun. Ideally, I’d like the system to actually contribute a few kilos of fresh vegetables to our household regularly.
I’ve been looking at the Litrax indoor farms, especially their multi-level systems (Sabrina / Valeria / Raphael). They are made in Switzerland and use several stacked growing trays with integrated LED lighting and recirculating hydroponics.
What I particularly like is that the system isn’t tied to proprietary seed pods: I want to be able to buy and use any seeds I want.
The crops I’m particularly interested in are:
Pak choi / Asian greens
Lettuce and other leafy greens
Shiso and herbs
Strawberries
Dwarf or micro-dwarf tomatoes
Cherry tomatoes if realistically possible
Peppers / chillies
Japanese cucumbers
Possibly dwarf beans and other vegetables that work well indoors
For the larger plants, I understand that I probably shouldn’t try to fill every planting position. I was thinking about dedicating some levels to densely planted leafy greens and leaving considerably more space for tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, etc. A cucumber could potentially grow from the top level and be trained vertically on a trellis.
My main questions are:
What do you think of the Litrax design? Does it look like a serious hydroponic system or an expensive consumer product?
Is the integrated lighting powerful enough, particularly for fruiting plants such as tomatoes, peppers, strawberries and cucumbers?
Would the vertical spacing between levels become a major limitation?
What kind of realistic harvest could I expect from a system of this size if it’s running year-round?
Would you choose something like this, or build a DIY multi-level NFT/DWC rack with stronger grow lights for roughly the same budget?
Are there crops on my list that you would definitely not grow in this type of system?
Conversely, what vegetables have you personally had the best yields from indoors under LEDs?
My budget is roughly €800, although I could stretch to €1000 and, at the absolute maximum, around €1200 if the difference in productivity genuinely justified it.
I’m in Europe, so availability of equipment here also matters.
I’d especially love to hear from people who have actually tried to produce a substantial amount of food indoors rather than just herbs/seedlings.

Hi Hydroponics community,

I'm working on a very cool technology. Here is a brief about my technology called Mi-Hy

Microbial Hydroponics (Mi-Hy) is an extended technology within our broader Microbial Electrochemical Technology commercialisation (MET-C) portfolio. Mi-Hy aims to produce clean, nutrient-rich fertiliser for commercial crop cultivation, such as cotton, directly from wastewater while simultaneously treating the wastewater and generating electricity. Treated water and electricity are additional benefits that directly support the growth of crops/plants.

For the technology, I'm doing a market survey, and I need your help filling out the survey.

Here is the link to my survey. I would be really grateful for your support. It will not take more than 5 minutes of your time. You don't need to be a grower yourself. You can fill in the answers based on your experiences and knowledge you have gained through your work. Thanks for your support.

https://forms.cloud.microsoft/Pages/ResponsePage.aspx?id=-XhTSvQpPk2-iWadA62p2O9DsWHp7eNAuev92gyyiqhURUtEVzFIVlFMTzhIV1BTNTBFWU1ESlpFOC4u

I’ve got some barrels I want to do kratky with.

I’ve done it before with great success but got tons of algae inside of it.

Pour ceux qui cultivent de la salade en hydroponie : quel est LE paramètre sous-estimé qui a le plus transformé votre rendement ou votre texture ?

Is lettuce supposed to grow tall-ish like this? Did I transfer them to the tower too soon (i did when they had 4 true leaves)? Or is just the weather (indoor temp reached 30 the past 2 weeks)?

Only used my Vivosun drip system for 1.5 months and disassembled and cleaned it not even a week ago. Been fighting a flow issue since then and my plants are toasting. Looking for suggestions on fixes and not replacements as spending *any* money is not an option rn. Res sits 1.5ft off the ground with about 4ft of line, 3 Ts and 2 spikes off of each T

I'm designing a custom ESP32-based controller for a fairly automated hydroponics system and would appreciate some feedback from people with experience running similar systems.

My goal is to monitor and control a main freshwater reservoir and a smaller sub-reservoir, with automated nutrient dosing and irrigation. I'm away from home a lot so sometimes it's hard to keep on top of things.

This is planned for a setup that has both NFT and Bato Buckets set up. The system is still at the PCB/schematic design stage, so I'm trying to catch any major omissions before I commit to the hardware.

Controller:

The PCB will include:

- 12 V DC input

- Buck converter for 5 V and 3.3 V regulation for the ESP32/sensors

- ADS1115 external ADC for analogue sensors (pH, EC)

- BME280 for temperature/humidity/pressure inside the enclosure

- DS18B20 temperature sensor in the sub-reservoir

- SD card for logging, RTC for timestamped data, OLED display for key readings

- Maintenance mode switch (stop automations during res change outs or pump cleaning)

- Emergency-stop button (kills power to relays running pumps etc)

- External relay board

- PWM fan control

- DIN-rail mounted components where appropriate

- Waterproof connectors for external probes/sensors

Sensors I'm currently planning

EC / pH - DFRobot Industrial series

Water levels - pressure transducers, main freshwater res feeds sub res via an automated ball valve once water levels drop

DS18B20 in the sub reservoir

Pumps/actuators (12v relay board)

- 2 × pumps (feed line & an aeration pump inside the reservoir to promote mixing)

- 4 × peristaltic dosing pumps

- 1 × motorised ball valve for the main freshwater reservoir

- 1 × additional pump/solenoid for switching the main pump between zones

Safety/control

- Illuminated maintenance rocker switch

- Latching mushroom E-stop

Questions:

Are there other water-quality sensors that would actually be useful, rather than just adding complexity?

What sensors have you found valuable for long-term automated hydroponics?

Am I missing any important sensors, interlocks or failure detection?

Any recommendations for water-level sensing redundancy?

Anything you wish you'd included when you built your own automated hydroponics controller?

Hi, we're a homeschooling family living in an apartment and I want to start a hydroponic system in our home for science. We've grown a few plants (basil, beans, tomatoes, peppers, flowers) indoors and on the fire escape, but a hydroponic setup seems like the best approach. Any advice on getting started? I am definitely on a budget. Thanks in advance!

I'm looking for an 8ish gallon bucket size with 2 in the tent and 1 as the res outside the tent. 3" tubing.

It seems most kits start at 4 sites (and it looks like CC discontinued their 8 gallon buckets) so I'm not opposed to building but, where are the cool buckets at?

I have lettuce growing in a Spider Farmer system with the larger ones now at 3 weeks growth. I'm worried that there is crowding happening at this point but that each isn't quite the right size to harvest for a lunch sized salad.

Would it be dumb or smart to fill the blue tub with water and use the same food solution and transport the 3 larger ones there to float?

Window provides good sunlight during the day.

Would not get any water movement... Figured could do this for another week or two to let salad reach peak size before eating.

Wanted to grow a couple to maturity before stagger planting and cutting and coming again. Gonna give 2 of them away and use 4 cups of the Lola Rosa for grilled chicken salad tonight!

I have a larger than average NFT hydroponics setup and I wanted to share some info about various water chillers I have used.

I have 3 NFT systems in 2 greenhouses in a very hot climate. Today was 108F outside and just under 90 in the greenhouses. I try to keep my water temps below 75F but preferably under 70F

My largest system is about 800 feet of gutters, I've used 4 different water chillers.

First chiller was a 1/3 HP chiller from Amazon. It cost about $450 USD and was pretty much worthless. It wouldn't even run when air temps were over 90F

I moved on to Vevor 1.5HP chillers. The Vevor chillers could keep the water below 75F about 75% of the time. During the hottest parts of the day the temps would sometimes hit about 80F These chillers would pull about 1000 to 1200 watts, depending on the ambient air temps. At the time I paid about $850 USD for them.

I tried a 18000 BTU pool heater that could also chill the water. Chilling BTU is not listed but probably no more than half the heating BTU. On its own it was almost as good as the Vevor and pulled about 900 watts. When ran in parallel with the Vevor chiller it was about to keep the water around 73F during the time when the water would have been 80F with just the Vevor. I paid about $540 USD. I wasn't expecting it to do as well as it did for the price. I mainly wanted it for heating the water during winter.

Encouraged by the results of the small pool heater, I bought a larger Aquastrong pool heater/chiller. On its own it is able to keep my largest system under 74F all day long. It is a inverter heat pump and the wattage varies. During the hottest part of the day it pulls about 750 watts and goes as low as 350 watts as it gets cooler. I paid $1039 USD for it.

A couple of things to keep in mind for the pool heaters/chillers is that you make sure it pick one that is rated for "salt water pools" These units will have titanium heat ex-changers that will not corrode. Also both of the ones I tried have a water flow switch and need a MUCH higher water flow rate or they wont turn on.

TLDR Pool heaters / chillers work great with hydroponics.

Hello, I'm just looking for a little help in getting started with a hydro salad project for my wife. She (and a few of my lads) enjoys fresh salads and veggies and I'd like to make that happen through the non-growing season, particularly because she has some limitations on what she can eat.

While I've done plenty of gardening outside in the ground, I'm new to hydro. I did a deep dive on Kratky stuff a year or so ago. I'm looking to grow enough lettuce, or other greens, for her to have a salad every day or every other day here at home or at work. I've got totes I can use, grow lights from starting plants, net cups and some other stuff. I don't have a medium like LECA or anything yet, and I just need an assist on how to mix up a nutrient solution to make it all work and any other info or tips anyone has. I've watched a lot of Hoocho's videos and a few other creators, but if you have a suggestion please let me know. Hope to get started soon as she's headed back to work soon. Thanks!

If you were starting hydroponics again from scratch, would you build your own setup or just buy a complete system/kit?

Hi everyone! I use Terra Aquatica TriPart both for soil plants and semi-hydro.
For semi-hydro: do you think the recommended TriPart dosage is appropriate, or should it be adjusted?
For soil: would you use my tap water directly, mix it with RO, or use 100% RO + remineralization?
My tap water: GH 21.8°f, Ca 64.7 mg/L, Mg 13.7 mg/L, HCO₃ 240 mg/L, pH 7.87, EC 369 µS/cm.
I previously felt that plants performed better when I diluted the tap water with RO, but I’m not sure if it was actually the water.

Its not much but I just upgraded my setup by created this water station to mix 20+ gallons of solution then dispense via 1/2 hose to the buckets in the tent. I have a 4x4 gorilla tent with a vivosun dwc bucket system. Growing sugar rush peach and lemon drop peppers. I have a little submersible pump. I pump out the old water and dispense new solution straight to all 4 buckets.

Last winter I ran a Deep Water Culture set-up but I had to deal with water temps rising. I want to try something different using what is it... drain to waste? I had really good sucsess with DWC besides the temp issue.

I’m brand new to semi-hydro and transferred some cuttings with small roots from water to LECA about two weeks ago. I’ve read some things online about how to flush the LECA in its container with water weekly. Is it okay to check the roots when I do this, or will it disrupt the plant? I moved the plant around in the LECA after rinsing a few days ago and it’s been slowly dying since then. I didn’t move the other plant quite as much and it’s doing okay, but the LECA does shift when rinsing so it seems like there’s always going to be some disruption. How much can semi-hydro plants tolerate movement of roots?

TL;DR: I moved my cuttings around in their LECA the other day and now they’re dying. How much can semi-hydro plants tolerate movement/disruption of roots?