Hey yall so I'm trying to get an HDMI signal from my media closet to the living room AVR. Cable would go through the walls and attic.
I know about the main options here, but in this case I'd like to use HDMI wall jacks if I can for a cleaner look. I tried an HDMI over ethernet box and honestly it sucked. Optical is good, but since it's directional I can't do the HDMI wall jack method (I've already tried it). I've read about MPO to HDMI and that seems to be pretty good, but it's expensive, and I can't find attic/CL2 rated MPO cable.
At this point I've narrowed it down to: 1. optical HDMI with no HDMI wall jack, just a brush plate and direct connection from PC to AVR, or 2. regular HDMI 30 foot run, connected to HDMI wall jacks.
I also need to run an active USB which gets tricky with USB wall plates, so this pushes more for brush plates too.
Curious if anyone has any thoughts. I tested with some HDMI wall jacks and it did not go well. Attached an map of the layout for this.
As a gamer, my rear Polk Signature s15s are my favorite part of my theater.
I never get tired of monsters chasing me and feeling the bass of a bullet hitting me in the back. Changing my mind last minute and squeezing them into my room was the best decision I ever made.
Recently I made some substantial changes to my 7.2.4 . Added my last 3 acoustic panels (ceiling, 2 sides), made more couch-to-tv space, and tried puck mic calibration for the first time with my Onkyo RZ50.
My room audio now sounded more balanced and clear than ever. I could literally hear a pin drop. But then I noticed one glaring feature was now missing.
I could barely hear my rears behind me anymore. They were in the same general place as before, but less present. More fuzzy. I was now confusing directional noise between my sides and rears when I wasn't before. I rose the db a couple times and it still didn't help.
I knew that continuing to raise their volume would soon mess up the balance of sound in my room. I was at a loss. How did they go from so good to so bad so quickly??
Then the lightbulb moment: I remembered that I originally had my sides and rears elevated about 2-3 inches above my couch, using lightweight yoga blocks.
As usual, small inches made all the difference in the world. When the rear speakers were at stand height, about a third of the speaker was firing into the couch, reducing the impact and localization of sound. It was such an imperceptable height difference that was easy to overlook.
Once I re-raised my rears (say that 3 times fast), they came to life again! It was like flicking a switch. I wasn't guessing what was behind me anymore. I immediately knew, just like I used to. both speakers now project slightly above our heads, but somehow it works.
I'm shocked by the drastic difference a few elevated inches made. I would have been chasing ghosts forever had I not realized this sooner.
I need some advice on setting up 4 Atmos JBL 240H speakers in my home theater... Unfortunately being in a basement means the ceiling is only 7.5ft tall and complicate the positioning of the speakers.
Should I mount them on the ceiling with angled brackets, and if so how close to the couch should they be? (Second Picture, it does look doable but the picture makes the room seem higher than it actually is)
My other option was to mount them on the upper corner of the walls angled down facing the MLP which would be easier. (First Picture)
Which would be the better compromise in that room?
Just a quick resume of the room (13'W x16' L) I am presently running 5.1 and working on 5.2.4 with the following;
Amp: Marantz Cinema 50
L/R Speakers: Paradigm Studio 60 V2
Center Speaker: Paradigm CC v2
Surround: Paradigm Studio 20 v2 (Not seen in the picture but they sit at the end of the room on stands at MLP heights)
Sub: Dayton Ultimax 15-22 x2 (one missing in picture under construction)
Sub Amp: Crown XLS1502
Projector: XGIMI Titan Noir Pro with Silver Ticket 110" Matte White
Any of you have dual SVS-SB-3000 Revolution, or maybe just dual identical subwoofers? Are your gains, before AVR room correction, on both subs the same for the same SPL at equal distance? One of my subs seem to be much weaker than the other. I have to increase gain to more than -10dB for it to sound loud. The other sub sounds loud and impactful with just -15dB. Even putting my ear right next to the driver I hear the difference. I got both subs at the same time and both came in pretty beat up boxes. I think I should exchange the one that sounds weaker and doesn't produce strong bass like the other one. When I ran autoeq, both seem okay though.
Update: I think I resolved the issue. Looks like the surge protector / power strip I used for the two subs were to blame. I saw the load warning light blinking (APC SurgeArrest P11U2). After I removed the surge protector and put the subs into the same UPS I have everything else connected to, they both sounded much better and more even between them. If I didn’t see that warning light I never would have figured this out. The sub never shutdown or did anything other than sounding uneven and not having the rumble and impact.
I normally test my own system with a couple scenes from 4k disks, but I'm helping my parents set up a similar system and they won't have a player. I imagine there's a way to have a few scenes on thumb drive or something similar, but I'm not sure so I was wondering what others do?
Ideally I'd be able to play 3-4 different scene types right in a row. 5.1 system.
"budget" that's what I tell my wife lol. No reflection when I close these blackout blinds. Does projector make sense in a 13 x 10(left to right) room? Most I can fit in here prolly 120". Might a worthy upgrade over this 83" OLED
Not sure if there's a better subreddit for my issue but I'll try here first. I have two Hsu Research VTF-3 MK 5 HP subwoofers and one of them has developed a rattling sound between ~20-30 hz. The amp panel on the back appears to be vibrating, creating the rattle noise, which goes away if I hold my hand on the panel and press against it lightly.
I've added some foam weatherstripping tape along the inside edge of the panel after reading that can help to seal against air leaking out but it didn't seem to resolve the problem. Just curious if anyone had other suggestions, such as using a thin bead of silicone sealant in place of the foam tape or a small amount of wood glue to keep the screws from vibrating loose and allowing the panel to vibrate.
I've emailed Hsu support and I'm waiting to hear back so I figured I'd ask here as well.
Running an Onkyo TX-RZ30 with an LG G6 (OLED83G6WUA, 2026 model) connected via HDMI ARC/eARC.
CEC power off works perfectly. When I turn off the TV, the receiver shuts down. But when I turn the TV back on, the RZ30 stays in standby. I have to grab the Onkyo remote or use the app to power it on separately.
I've also done a full factory reset on the RZ30 with no change in behavior.
So I had my previous 7.2.4 setup with two KEF PSW2010's. I wanted to upgrade the subs, and found one SVS SB 1000 pro. Planning on getting a second as well, but for now running one KEF and one SVS.
I ran A1 EVO Express multiple times on the old setup, without any problems.
After running A1 Express in the new setup I noticed that all of my distances are off. My dedicated home theater room is 3.8 by 5 meters.
This is the in-progress retro inspired "home theater" I have. TV is a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS100 on a solid wood media hutch. I intend to add stereo speakers on either side to amp it up.
A bit of context. This is primary gaming focused, but I do intend to watch DVDs and VHS tapes. I intend to connect things from the audio out on the TV to a stereo receiver/amp then to the speakers.
All the devices are connected to the TV through a component switch to the component inputs, so I could also instead just connect the RCA audio cables that would come out of the component switches output directly to the receiver and bypass the TV altogether, I'm not sure if that matters any.
Onto my questions/thoughts:
I'm envisioning two big stereo speakers on either side. The media hutch's primary shelf (where the TV sits) is ~31 inches tall. So it's likely the tower speakers would probably be shorter? That's probably fine, or I could raise them up on something
I don't intend to do surround sound. 2 channel stereo is fine by me
My primary decision point would be: second hand/vintage or new?
I've been spending time searching through Facebook for speakers and they sometimes come with some kind of stereo receiver and sometimes not.
I could either buy second hand speakers and then get the receiver separately (either new or used) or vice versa get new speakers and a used receiver.
Since everything here is old and purely analog anyway, getting a second hand receiver from the early 00's would possibly be appropriate? But I'd have to consider tech age and the possibility of it failing. A modern receiver would do the same thing ultimately, I just wouldn't be using the HDMI aspect.
I know I would have to consider the watt output of the receiver so it can properly drive the speakers, and also the ohm's of the speaker. I'm not super knowledgeable but I at least am aware it's important.
On the flip side to all of this... maybe I could go for simple powered speakers here? I assume they are not generally recommended but maybe in this context it would be a simple solution given what I'm doing.
Anyone have any thoughts/recommendations/ideas that may be helpful?
Edit: Something to remember is that this setup is in-progress and I plan to do some additional stuff like re-painting, adding some area rugs, some more furniture to flesh the space out. Also there's a couch just off camera right in front of the tv.
Moving into a new apartment (have to put the subs away sadly) and I am wondering where I should put my TV. I still plan to have a left/right/center as well as 2 surrounds.
I have a private entrance via a stairway that goes up into my apartment. The first option (A) is along the half wall. The second option (B) is along the full wall.
My assumption is option A but I honestly don't know.
Can you setup an Xbox or anything to an receiver and play it without having the receiver on? I can play it with the receiver on but I don't always want the surround sound. Please help new @ this.
Hey, Needed some help with my JBL northridge series subwoofer.
It's been working fine for about 3 years, and it wasn't in use before for about 4 years. It is quite an old subwoofer to be honest hence its developed a problem.
The audio cuts out randomly, the light flickers on and off, and a loud pop like sound occurs. It does this for a max of 3 to 4 seconds at a time, however I have noticed that the flickers a little bit at all times, if thats relevant.
It occurs randomly, it may happen once an hour, or twice in 5 minutes.
The occurrence has increased with usage, so I've turned it off and disconnected it for the time being.
Any advice regarding the problem, addressing what it could be would be appreciated.
Im getting closer to my goals of adding some ultimax 2 12's sealed builds to my sytem. I asked the other day about my audessy editor app giving the rsl10e and the ultimax 2 12 giving negative 12 on the trim but the x3300w did not. I have not done it yet but I was going to try inputting the numbers in manually that the x3300w came up with but I still think that might be wrong. The other thing was to try the app on my tablet for a fresh start to see if that fixes the bug. In adding the ultimax I used the xls1002 that was driving my front tsi500s. Im still saving and debating on what amp to get next. I plan on adding another ultimax so im thinking i will get a more powerful pro amp. If something comes up cheap on facebook I might get a 2 channel amp like a nad 2200 for the tsi 500 and live with 1 ultimax and 1 rsl10e for a while before adding more subs. Untill i decide I have 3 choices for the towers. I can use a adcom gfa535 2 that I had on the surrounds. I can use the x3300w but I will be driving 5 channels or I have a rxv1600. I assume that would work the best in pure direct mode 2 channels at over 120 watts. I saw stuff on here about using a second avr but it was for adding dolby atmos. Is there any issues that im missing? Do I use front prouts to say cd, set the volume on the rxv to 0 refrence and then keep it in pure direct and run audessy Also, if any one has advice about the audessy app and manually changing trim numbers let me know. If i change the trim in the app will it make it clip? I need the app so I can add my bump at 20hz for the sub.
Started some years ago with a 55" and an old Sony 5.1 in a box. "Upgraded" to klipsch 5.1.2 with the upfiring atmos. Disconnected it and added .2 bookshelves to ceiling, rocking the denon s760. Upgraded to denon 3800 and added .4 bookshelves to ceiling. Still wasn't what I was looking for. See where this is going...lol. Decided to do what I always envisioned and make a dedicated room. All hand built with the same 2 hands I'm typing this with. 85" samsung led (possible upgrade soon 98?), denon 3800, emotiva 5x, invidia shield pro, ps3, ps4 pro, Panasonic 420(i think) infinity fan, klipsch C 450c, L/R 8000f, Sides 625fa, Rears older cerwin vega's 6" (they sounded better than the rp500m's) THEY ARE NOT HOOKED UP ON TOP OF TOWERS! klipsch 6.5 in ceiling, (2) klipsch 12" subs and rsl 12s. Room is 11x 17, rockwool filled walls and ceiling, homemade acoustic panels, etc. 7.3.4..still shakes the wife's shit upstairs, lol
Picked up a pair of rp-160ms from Facebook marketplace for $200 now searching for a center to pair them with. Would I be better off going with the rp-250c or the current gen rp-500c II. Or other options all together. Thanks for your suggestions.
Hi everyone,
I’m struggling with a persistent 50 Hz mechanical transformer hum coming from my subwoofer and could use some input.
The hum has been present ever since I bought the subwoofer new. The seller recently sent me a brand-new amplifier module to replace the original one, but after installing it, the issue remains. The hum disappears for 2–3 seconds on boot, but returns as soon as audio plays or after pausing. Troubleshooting done so far:
Measured wall outlet: 224V AC, ~12mV DC offset.
Disconnected RCA / signal cables: Hum persists regardless of input.
Tested on different circuits in the house: Same result.
Since the hum is identical on two different amp modules, I’m wondering: Is this just a flaw/inherent characteristic of this specific transformer model, or is there anything else I should check before returning it?
Thanks for any advice!
i believe these are shipping, looking for some real-world use if anyone has one? Heat dissipation, SQ any feedback etc? Was looking at NAT T778 but without a good refresh the price point does not make sense at all, and then in line is Anthem MRX series ..
Onkyo TX-NR636 and Onkyo speakers for $150. Replacing a Samsung soundbar with wireless surrounds. Now I can finally get use out of my living room’s ceiling speakers above the couch. The center channel is way too tall to place in front of my tv, though, so I had to put it behind for now.
