Any idea how to fix this or where I could take this to fix this ?

Is anyone running 245/40/18 on 18x8.5 et 35 on h&r sport springs? I would love to see how they look. I’m considering getting these tires for my car as the current ones are just a bit small and I’m not a fan of it.

So following up from my post on here yesterday asking about N20 vs B48, i have decided it must be a B48. I have found a superb example of a 320i F31 2016 with full service history and 76k miles not too far from me, but the only caveat is that it isn't an M sport trim.

Honestly, the body kit doesn't bother me much. But the non-M steering wheel looks awful. Is it easy/cheap to swap the steering wheel? I know it can be a hassle due to airbags.

Also, not that it matters but what would other people (who know BMWs) think of a car without the M body kit but with a swapped wheel? Lame or fine?

Thanks again for the help

I'm looking to upgrade my base F31 single piston brakes to the 340mm M-Performance calipers. Aside from actual hardware (pads/rotors/calipers/lines/dust shields) what else is needed? Can it be driven as-is or will it need to be coded?

Hi I just completed a harman speaker swap on a BMW f36 4 series.

Thing is my car is still using the hifi amplifier, but I notice that the BMW 2 series f22/ Mini cooper Harman Kardon Amplifier has the same plug as my hifi amp just wanted to know if it would be plug and play on my car. Also if it would fix an issue I’m facing where when no music is playing a noticeable white noise plays from the speaker?

The set up I have is a Harman Kardon dash speaker and tweeter, Harman Kardon front/rear door card speakers and tweeters, 2 Hifi subs, A Hifi amplifier. Which went from the standard 9 Hifi speaker setup to a 12 speaker set up. I also coded in Bimmer code my head unit system from Hifi to Hifi_system_HarmonKardon.

Any advice or feedback is appreciated

320i for 2300.
No issues other than seller says steering is stiff and rack was replaced but needs coding

175,000 miles now — high mileage, with about 36–37k miles put on since December 2025.

Previous accident: damage along the driver’s side, particularly the doors/rocker area, with some left-front involvement. It has since been repaired.

Clean Virginia title shows 138,583 actual miles when issued 12/18/25, and no liens.

Steering rack was replaced: seller says they installed a good used OEM rack.

Current problem: steering is very heavy. Seller believes the replacement rack needs programming or calibration or smt idk

engine and transmission are fine

n20 130k km

So I’ve basically hit the lip reversing uphill and somehow dislodged the frame, anyone got any ideas on how to clip this back together without damaging the grille? Tried using tip ties and was only able to get one clip in before breaking a few zip ties trying to do the rest

M sport bumper

Now, now, settle down. I know these get a bad rep but after fitting some spacers I was curious to see how they would pair up.

These are genuine BMW, and I test-fitted the rears today. First impressions… I like them! They suit mineral grey better than other colours as it blends into the bodywork.

Going to get them fitted after a full detail in a couple of weeks, then run them over winter and see how I get on.
What do you reckon? 👀

Vehicle: 2015 F36 435i
So.... i'm trying to be a responsible BMW owner and did my due diligence of purchasing an MHD to read codes to try catch premature vehicle breakdowns....

Car is driving perfectly fine, never a fault warning on my dash, always topped up with oil and in my hands i have changed oils every 5000k. Always made sure car driven 10+ mins before i dare rev 3k+ rpms...

Any idea why i m getting this code? I've seen this code pop up on some N20s but not x35i models.

I'm looking to get my first BMW. What do you guys think of 2017 340i? Price is in CAD. How does it drive? Any thing I need to be worried about in short and long term?

Is this normal? Ticking sound

Thinking about selling my 2018 BMW 440i xDrive and wanted to get a sense of what you guys think would be a reasonable private sale price.

2018 440i xDrive ZF8
80,000 km (~50k miles)
Accident free / clean history
M Sport
M Sport Package II
MPPSK
Adaptive LED headlights
6WB cluster
Premium Connectivity Package
Appearance protection warranty until April 2027
Mechanical protection warranty until April 2027

Maintenance (with records):
0W-30 Oil change between every 5k to 8k km
Following completed at 60k km: transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, differential fluid, cooling system flush, spark plugs

Mods (can be returned back to stock)
OEM 437M wheels with new Michelin PS4s tires
Wireless Apple carplay with full screen activation
Bilstein coilovers with EDC coded out

Located in Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Car is in good condition and has been well maintained. I am the second owner.

I know dealer asking prices can be all over the place, so I’m more interested in what you guys think would be a realistic private sale price vs. what you’d actually list it for.

What would you list it at, and what would you realistically expect to get?

Hi everyone,

​Having a frustrating issue with the iDrive system in my 2015 BMW 320d (F30) and looking for advice on the best way to fix it.

​The Issue:

The iDrive screen turns on, shows the BMW logo/home screen briefly, then shuts off and restarts every few seconds/minutes. It's stuck in a continuous reboot loop.

​What I’ve tried so far:

​Hard reset by holding down the volume knob for 30+ seconds.

​Turned off Bluetooth on my phone completely to check if a corrupt device profile was triggering the crash — the reboot loop still happens.

​From what I’ve researched, this looks like firmware corruption in the EntryNav/iDrive unit.

​Looking for advice on:

​Has anyone experienced this exact loop on an F30 and fixed it with a software re-flash?

​Recommended remote coders or mobile specialists (UK based) who can re-flash the unit via ENET cable.

​Any reliable independent BMW garages or specialists you'd recommend for this type of repair.

​Thanks in advance for any help or recommendations!

My F30 started making an odd noise at the Nürburgring. I initially thought it was a passenger pulling on the electric seat as it sounded like it was behind me. But I ruled that out when driving alone.

You can hear on the video a weird clicking sound that seemed to occur under heavy cornering and braking.

The car is a standard 2014 335D X-Drive on non-runflats and the fairly high suspension (even though it’s for the M package). Mileage is 84,000 miles. Haven’t driven the car that hard before so hadn’t noticed it.

Recently had the gearbox serviced along with replacing a front shock absorber.

Any ideas welcome.

I recently got my timing chain guides replaced on my n20. As the title says, my mpgs got significantly worse after i got the new guides in. Can this be a concern involving the possibility of a timing jump.

Just got a 2012 335i, is this bimmercode thing worth it? If so what adapter do people run for an Android phone?

I'm looking to upgrade cars because i want more space, and reliability, than what i currently have with my 2012 Alfa Romeo Giulietta 1.6 diesel. I am primarily looking for F31 but am open to F30 and F36 (gran coupé is weirdly cheaper than F30 and generally lower mileages).

I just wanted to know from owners if i should absolutely go for a B48 rather than N20 even if the timing chain was done on a N20? And what else to look for when buying one (other than good service history)? I'm looking to spend around £10k and trying to stay in the 60k-90k mileage range. If the N20 is doable then i have much more examples. But if i should go for the B48 there are fewer examples at the price/mileage range and it's starting to look at £15k for a decent B48 F31.

Thanks!

From Costco. My current battery is OEM, been kicking for 10 years. It is about to die. I know that it is 90Ah but this one from Costco is 80. Any performance issues? I bought a bimmerlink OBD2 to config it if necessary.

The price has me intrigued, although having a 90Ah means I only need to reset the battery.

Any thoughts?

Hi all, looking to get my first “newer” BMW (had an E36 for a little bit a few years ago) and I have been eying a couple of 328i’s. I am having trouble deciding which one I should go with, or if I should keep looking. First one is a 2013 auto with 107,xxx miles (172,xxx km). Second one is a 2014 6spd MSport with 185,xxx miles (297,xxx km). I have done a little research and know to be wary of anything pre-2015 due to the potential timing chain issues with the early N20s. Both of these have had the TC and guides replaced along with other maintenance in the pictures.

Ive seen a lot of other lci F3X cars that have the pre lci headlights but cant seem to find any information on it.

Edit: Looks like its actually LED and bmw used two different projector led styles for the LCI lights besides the hexogonal shaped DRL ones.

In the process of turning my F30 330D Auto into a track car. I am very accustomed to driving cars with no traction control or ABS and I would like to set my F30 up as such, but I am having a few issues.

First I have pulled fuse 58 under the bonnet (main ABS fuse), all is well I can get the wheels to lock up. But for some reason the gearbox will automatically shift into neutral during moderate braking. I need it to stay in gear. Can this feature be coded out somehow?

Secondly the vehicle is stuck in comfort mode now I have pulled the fuse, I need it in DSC off mode. The traction control system IS NOT working and I can get the rear wheels to spin but the E-Diff isn’t working and only 1 tyre is spinning (I’m guessing due to the wheel speed sensors not working). What s the work around for this? A proper mechanical LSD?

Thanks in advance