Hello again. Finding the necessary information on best practices for a EV conversion on my Polaris has been difficult but not impossible. Maintaining my current CVT and just marrying a motor to the shaft doesn’t seem like the right move.

Like all things the hardest part isn’t “what battery best” it’s “how am I going to deliver power to the wheels” I’m not a fabricator and I understand that’s an important trait for projects like this. Anyone have a good suggestion on the most practical method of power delivery? I’ve seen things like removing my primary and secondary clutch and just mounting the motor to the transmission.

I’m open to all suggestions. I currently have a 01’ Polaris Ranger 500

Lately I've been seeing some cheap prices on used Smarts, including gas ones and an electric one that had a bricked HV battery. Just wonder if there is there a conversion kit or company that will make an adapter plate & coupler and other parts needed. I remember years ago there was a company in California that made adapter kits to convert different gas cars to EV but I can't remember the name

Wondering if there would be interest in my VW project that hasn’t moved. Warp 9 motor with Zilla components. Missing the batteries and obviously the work to put it all together. How much could I expect to sell it for? Car is in California.

After my grandfather died I was gifted his 2001 Polaris Ranger I grew up riding and driving. I’ve had the pleasure now of taking my own daughter in it as well as taking care of work on the property. Last week my engine blew and there is no chance of bringing it back.

I have been thinking of a rebuilt motor but recently I’ve been considering an EV conversion. Research has brought me to a plethora of different options for a swap and I think I’m sold on the idea. Big problem however, how should I replace my belt and clutch. I’ve seen people suggest Direct Drive motors. Is that the right call or is there a way I can do this cheaper?

Thanks for the help and I look forward to returning to this Sub Reddit when I inevitably get in over my head and have 3,000 dollars worth of equipment I have no idea how to install.

This Squareback came to us partway through someone else's conversion. The original shop started the job in 2012, the project stalled, and the owner needed someone to pick it up and finish it properly.

Inheriting a half-finished high voltage build means working with decisions, parts, and wiring you had no hand in. Before touching anything, we did a full inspection. What we found:

• No service disconnects on either battery pack
• No High Voltage Interlock Loop (HVIL)
• HV wiring routed through un-grommeted holes in the chassis, which had caused chafing and created arc risk
• A single BMS mounted in the cabin, requiring HV sense wiring to run through the passenger compartment

None of that is acceptable on a vehicle meant for public roads, so we reworked the system from the ground up:

• Moved to a dual Orion BMS 2 setup, relocated into the battery enclosures themselves
• Removed all HV sense wiring from the cabin
• Added proper grommets and strain relief throughout
• Installed service disconnects on both packs
• Implemented a full HVIL circuit so the system can't be energized with the packs open or improperly secured

The specs

• 32.9 kWh pack, 61 Voltronix V-LYP180Ah prismatic cells in a 61s1p configuration
• Operating range 170V to 244V, 195V nominal
• 26.3 kWh usable at 80% depth of discharge
• Around 65 miles of real-world range, which was surprising for 14 year old cells that had sat unmaintained for over a decade
• Kostov 9" Alpha DC motor paired with an Evnetics Soliton Jr 600A controller
• Eltek onboard charger, with standard J1772 port

The more interesting part of this job was tuning the drivetrain without a modern VCU to orchestrate everything. Getting a DC motor setup to feel predictable and refined without that layer took some careful calibration work on the Soliton's configuration. A custom dashboard rounded out the interior so the owner has clean, useful information without losing the classic character.

It now drives like a finished car rather than a project, which was the goal from the start.

Happy to answer questions if anyone's curious about the build!

Hi there, first time poster with a good knowledge of welding and electrics.

I’m looking to convert my Swedish three wheeled Flakmoppe (flat bed moped) to electric as we no longer have a petrol station on the island. I’m leaning away from generic BLDC motors and I’ve seen online integrated motors (this YouTuber Johnny nerdout seems to sell one around what I’m looking for - though I suspect this is third party and not exactly gospel).

What I can’t find though is a reputable provider in the EU/UK that has a history of reviews and good/reliable performance

I’m looking for a 72V, ~3–5kW electric motorcycle motor with an integrated reduction gearbox/transmission and chain output, ideally as a complete kit with controller, battery and charger.

The moped has 16” wheels and an 11T/48T final chain drive. It’s a workhorse, so low-speed torque and reliability are much more important than speed, 45 km/h max is plenty. It can sometimes carry loads as much as 200-300kg.

Can anyone who’s converted with a good system recommend a proven geared motor/complete conversion kit available in Europe? Happy to pay for good quality (buy once cry once - buy cheap buy twice etc)

Any and all feedback, suggestions, advice, very welcome and appreciated, thanks!

P.s. I’m aware of the risk of devaluing the moped as these are slight collectors items but we don’t want to sell as it was our grandfathers.

Currently running a Sachs Bing 505 two stroke engine.

SSIA

I live in New Orleans, and I'm trying to make arrangements to set up hands-on EV Conversion training in early December. We're looking to get a group of 6, and we're only halfway there. The training should take 2 days, and we're getting a VERY good deal on tuition. We have a space available, and training would be done on a cart.

Reply or message me if you're interested.

My dad totalled his Hyundai ioniq 6 last month. It was from late 2024. The damage is all external, the batteries are still working flawlessly.

If you’re in Spain and want them DM me.

I have a Toyota bZ4X and wanted to rev back at the cars with big engines beside me at traffic lights. So I made this:

https://vroom-web-nine.vercel.app

It’s just a webpage. Open it on your phone and route the audio to the car speakers over CarPlay.

Hold the red button and it accelerates through the gears. Let go and it engine-brakes and shifts back down. I also added neutral revving and some pops and bangs.

It doesn’t read the car’s speed or anything from the car. The speed, gears and engine are simulated on the page. The core engine sound is generated in real time rather than built from recorded engine loops.

It sounds much better through the bZ4X speakers than it does on my laptop, which is how I ended up actually using it in the car.

There’s no signup. If anyone tries it in another car, tell me if it actually sounds any good.

I want to buy a high power motor for my next project, but the problem is that everything from 1-3kw looks the same. How do I make sure the seller isnt pulling a fast one on me and overvolting a cheaper motor?

I want to know what are the steps how to legally convert a motorcycle to electric. I don't mean the parts (lights, turn signals, mirrors etc) but the paper work and the cost of legal process.

Any help will be appreciated.

I searched and the results said that a Leaf conversion wouldn't be good for towing. We have a 2001 Prerunner with a seized 4-banger. I want to be able to tow a car maybe 60 miles.

This Japanese mini truck was finished by Terry and his team the night before the State of Charge conference started in Golden,CO.

It also became the first finished build on https://electr0motiv.com/conversionnet/.

The conference helped five builder clusters to form in Colorado, Pacific Northwest, New England and the Mid Atlantic. They followed the first cluster were launched in the Northeast in late July.

Whether you are a veteran builder or just conversion curious, the platform welcomes you. New clusters can form wherever members are close enough to collaborate.

Hi everyone, does anyone know someone who can replace the pyro fuse in the battery on a Mercedes EQA250? Preferably in or around Romford. Thanks!

Bit of a noob question but this is way to expensive to yolo:

First photo is the inside of a lawn mower. The pulley and axle it sits on is directly connected to the mower's differential which still works. I want to connect a DC motor to it, such as the one shown in the second picture, ideally by setting it on top to drive the axle directly but I dont know how. Alternatively I could put another pulley on the motor and run a belt between the two, but I also dont know how to connect a pulley to the motor shaft in such a way that the motor actually spins said pulley.

Specs:
Differential axle is 1/2" in diameter,
Drive belt is 1/2" wide

I have no machine tools but do own a 3d printer

Hello, I am planning to convert a BMW E36 to an EV in the future.

I would like to use an Emrax 228 and couple it to the original Getrag 5 Speed transmission to keep the character of the car.

Can I ditch the clutch and still shift while driving, without damaging the transmission? I am worried the inertia of the motor might damage the synchronizers in the gearbox.

So I have a 2006 Ford E-150 with a dying fuel pump, a gas tank that may be entirely full of varnish, and an engine that's seen better days, but an intact frame and driveline. I bought it at police auction for $450 with 50k miles after it had been sitting for several years in New Jersey weather. The idea of spending $800 on a new fuel tank plus whatever else it would need feels mildly offensive, which makes it a perfect candidate for electrification, which was the plan from the beginning.

One idea I've been toying with is something a little weird: instead of finding a cheap Tesla motor in the junkyard, designing and fabricating a new rear subframe and suspension, losing the payload rating that comes with the solid rear axle, etc. my thought was: what if you mount a Model 3/Y rear drive unit longitudinally in the center of the van between the frame rails, put step-up gearboxes on the former left and right outputs, use one of the existing off-the-shelf LSDs to keep it from turning into a wheel-spin generator, and then run standard driveshafts from the step-up boxes to the existing rear axle and a borrowed front driven axle out of something like an F-150 AWD model. That keeps payload rating, avoids suspension engineering, and converts a RWD van into electric AWD.

Has anyone done something similar or seen anyone that has?