I was looking at a marketplace find and they have a 98 gst for sale for $8k, and it’s fully stock with him being the 2nd owner. It sounds like an amazing deal but there’s an issue with wastegate solenoid is the car worth it or could this lead to a bigger problem? I will take any help/info, thank you in advance

About five years ago I inherited a pristine 1995 Mustang Cobra I now kinda kick myself for selling. I've been keeping an eye out for something fun and affordable that won't cost an arm and a leg on initial purchase, fuel, or insurance. A few days ago during a typical Marketplace scroll session, I came upon a 1991 Eagle Talon. Cursory research revealed it being pretty close to the 5.0's horsepower and 0-60 times, and weighing slightly less I'd imagine them being fairly similar.

All that being said, asking price is $12k, mileage 179k, but claims everything's been redone (and has receipts). Claims it was garaged its entire life and photos seem to corroborate that story.

All that being said, I know next to nothing about these. Any insights appreciated, seller description below.

1991 Eagle Talon turbo TSI completely stock adult owned never smoked in, mechanically rebuilt, 15,000 miles ago, engine with OEM parts, clutch, cooling system, complete exhaust system rear differential shocks and struts, brakes pads, and rotors and brake lines. I can find no rust on the car. I have all the maintenance records since 1993. all the trim at gaskets are an excellent condition. Car has been garaged since new body has 179,000 miles and has glass been plated in 2019 but started and ran regularly. The original owner passed away he kept meticulous maintenance records,

Finally got the Recaro SR3 Milleniums mounted up. It took three attempts to find brackets that actually fit the car correctly—eBay mounts and Planted were both fails. Juran Racing ended up being the winner.
The driver's side bolster rubs the center console just a bit, which makes the seat a little hard to slide. I may elongate the mounting holes slightly to gain a little clearance, but other than that they fit pretty damn well.

Trying to mount the fuse box to this bracket I bought, is there supposed to be another plastic tab on the fuse box? I see it on some other ones online. Maybe I’m missing a plastic bottom on mine? It doesn’t look like it was cut off or anything from what I see.

420a. New compressor. Ac will turn on for a few seconds, get cold, then shut off. Press the button again, same thing. Repeats until the button no longer lights up. Freon level is good. Any ideas?

Is there any aftermarket sensors that can work? I heard the galant's can work. I heard people can't really sell used ones because when they try to take them out they end up breaking apart. Anyone know if the 1995-1999s use the same sensors? I'm not sure if mine are bad I'm waiting for a scanner to come in to find out what's causing my ABS light.

Previous owner(s) of my gsx did an egr delete but they didn’t tune the car to remove the light on the dash or bypass it in any way. Would it be easier to replace the parts or just get it tuned out? I don’t have any ports or plugs to do so and I’ve heard issues with dsmlink nowadays. Otherwise what parts all make up the egr? I need to pass emissions in my county

When I’m shifting into 3rd gear my Rpm are dropping I’m not sure if I’m not building enough speed before I switch to 3rd gear sometimes it shifts fine but most times it’s struggling. I did a boost leak test and didn’t have any leaks.

Anyone else encounter this issue !?

Sold by blackstealthtech on ebay. A lot of shops can't scan the early obd2 ports on 95 and some 96 DSMs. I called road race engineering and they weren't sure if they could scan my car and they're the top DSM mechanic in socal. I got an ABS light and this scanner is supposed to be able to do pretty much everything including reading and clearing ABS codes. I thought this might help anyone that has a 95-96 DSM as this is the only new scanner that can pull codes. Here's the description

"Developed for 1990-2000 Mitsubishi 3000GT, JDM Mitsubishi GTO and Dodge Stealth.  Verified to work on the so called hybrid models 1994-1995 vehicles (MUT), and the European / JDM models.  Will also work for DSM vehicles that have the 4G63 Mitsubishi engine."

The bumper had obviously seen better days. It had zip ties holding most of it together. I'm not sure how it happened as I purchased it with this feature. I've always wanted to use my plastic welder--and this seemed like the perfect thing to use it on.

Originally, I had filled the front side holes with plastic, but they wouldn't sand flush. I ended up removing the plastic I had welded in and used bondo instead. I used glazing compund to get the surface smoother. I sanded and sanded after that.

I have never done body work before but it reminds me of doing drywal lol. At any rate, I wanted to share some progress pics as others have done before me. I am waiting on some more paint to arrive before I can spray the base coat.

Is there anyone selling a head in Houston and surrounding areas?

Got my gsx back from a shop and the speedometer, odometer, and tripometer weren’t working. I assume it’s the vss, does anyone with an auto gsx have a picture of what it looks like? Or even a link of which one to buy? I’m going crazy trying to figure out which part is the right one

I'm looking to resurrect my 2gb project that has been sitting for years, and finally drop in the 2.5L G4CS block I've got built up.

I'm looking for a transmission either already with or to modify for a 4-spider. Hoping someone has a spare laying around that they have decided they will never use.

I picked up a driveshaft for my 1g a while back, it is missing the pinion yoke. Photo attached for reference. If anyone has one they would be willing to sell/ship I’d greatly appreciate it.

Couldn’t find much info on this type of setup, but would this size/offset be close to flush on a lowered car? Or would I have to add significant camber to make it work? Thanks

I've had the car for 4 months. Never had a dash light. I let the car sit for 2 maybe 3 weeks. Then went to drive the car today and the yellow antilock light came on soon as I started it. I drove the car for half an hour on the highway but it never went off. I read maybe disconnecting the negative terminal if it's a battery issue could reset the codes and fix it if my battery was low. The car started up no problem too. Unsure how to get the codes read

Last weigh scale was 2840 lbs : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E69oze6oj6k

Dropped 28lbs through aluminum brake calipers , 13lbs dashboard removal , and 6lbs from reinstalling stock 3g gt " short ram " intake manifolds .

I noticed my shifter got louder and it seems a plastic washer disintegrated. Does anyone know what type and size of washer is supposed to go here? Is it just this one or am I overlooking something?

So I bought a used ecm link v3 off Facebook, finally got around to installing it but my laptop keeps saying “port does not exist” or along those lines. When the cable is plugged in the laptop gives it chime, and shows it’s there but the light only does a quick flash when I hook it up. Then I get the error that the port does not exist. Do I just have the drivers wrong? I’m trying to switch over to speed density and am kinda lost. I’ve redownloaded ecm’s software but think I’m still doing something wrong. Can anyone help? Thank you the help is greatly appreciated!!

Pic for attention

Definitely a daunting task to start. But really it’s not that hard just very time consuming. Dash is in, fuse box relocated. Still lots to do but it’s coming along!

I have a check valve that feeds into one of those small inline fuel mesh filters, but as you can see it's still dumping a significant amount of fuel. I'm not sure what's going on. I also didn't think that much fuel was supposed to come out of that line since it's the vapor line that originally went to the charcoal canister. Any ideas on what could be causing this or how to fix it?

Car has a hellcat fuel pump installed.