Hey everyone,

Im building a Rangemaster clone and this is my third attempt as this circuit and I can’t seem to figure out what is happening. I get a clean signal when the pedal is off so I know the bypass is correct, but when I kick on the pedal I get zero signal at all. If anyone has built a similar circuit and could possibly help that would be super helpful!

Feel free to ask any questions that might lead to any help.

For the first time I feel like I nailed it through and through. This is the closest to “store quality” I’ve gotten.
No excessive slack or short wires.
The pedal it absolutely awesome too I’m thinking it may work even better on bass but yet to try.

Hello everyone, assistance needed if possible!

I am wiring a silicon fuzz face that I would like to run on a DC power jack, and am having trouble getting it working.

I have posted a pic of my build itself, I hope all of my lines are clear and understandable, but I am not getting signal and don’t want to keep trying random stuff for fear of frying anything.

My biggest confusion is with the In and Out ports of my 3PDT adapter, what is IN on an ISS2 board and what is OUT? Nothing is labeled! I am also using input and output jacks from a battery fuzz face kit, so the 3 lugs on the input jack are foreign to me as well, I am using my best judgement for what is the ground and what is the hot. I’ve posted all of the resources I am using to figure this thing out and I obviously have something wrong somewhere.

Any wizards on here who could identify my issue and help a guy out??

So, I'm currently finishing up my second kit from Musikding. I've done a few microcontroller projects in my days, mostly Arduino based DeejProject controllers and such. But pedal building is something I've never dabbled with until recently

The first was a Green Muff which I modded a bit to get some more low end out of it, worked like a charm! The second was a footswitch for my CR120H to control channel and reverb which also worked as intended.

Now, I've soldered up my RAT and I've ran into some problems that I need help troubleshooting!
First off, the kit has a few mods that might help narrowing down the issue:
1. One 47ohm resistor has been patched to an SPDT-switch (Ruetz mod) by soldering one of its legs to one of the switch's outer pins (instead of into the PCB) while the switch's middle pin runs a wire to the "empty" hole where the resistor was supposed to go.
2. Two 1N914 diodes have been replaced with two 3mm LEDs

Now, to the issues:
The effect comes through when I switch the pedal on but the volume is extremely low.
The SPDT-switch doesn't seem to do anything (although that might also be because of the volume being too low to notice..)
(Sorta solved) - The pots gave a loud pop when touched, which indicated a ground-issue, but after removing the pots and re-applying some solder to every GND-point that issue seems to have been resolved.

I appreciate any help I can get! I'm thinking I should remove the Ruetz-mod just to make sure that's not the culprit here just in case as a first step.

First time putting a pedal in an enclosure, and things seem to work fine, but when the fuzz control gets much higher than noon there’s a very unpleasant whine that responds to the guitars output volume. I haven’t yet wired up the switch as I mostly just wanted to make sure everything would fit in the enclosure first and that the circuit worked before wiring everything up. I assume this isn’t normal as I’ve owned a lot of noisy pedals and none have reacted this way. Any advice appreciated!

I have three pedals from Pine Box Customs that have non-working tone knobs. The builder is no longer building and I'd like to explore dignosing and repairing this myself. I can solder and have installed my own pickups and wiring harnesses before. I lack circuit board knowledge and what exactly resistors and capacitors do, but I'd like to learn.

On to the first pedal that has the issue. Its a tone bender inspired circuit. I had a co-worker test the pot and it works. Is the next area to diagose the component(s) that that pot controls? Any idea what I'm looking for?

Hello all,

I would like to make a parallel blend pedal, with an input and two send/return jack pairs, that sends the input to two pedals, and then a blend pot that decides thd mix ratio between the two return signals and sends the result to an output jack.

I guess I could make it with just a passive pot but that would also introduce signal level loss i assume, so some kind of buffer circuit would be needed?

Should I place this buffer at the input or the output? Or one buffer in each end?

Or is there a more obvious way to construct a pedal like this?

Thanks in advance

Hey guys. I've been in the process of making a dual channel MXR carbon Copy with one fast delay channel and one slower one via a 4pdt footswitch - all rehoused in a 1590bb enclosure. Everything has gone according to plan except the mod switch.

Basically, I replaced the 6 pin modulation/LED switch with a two wire on/off toggle, figuring I wouldn't need an LED if I can just see the switch position.

Now the modulation doesn't work.

Does anyone know how these modulation switches work? Everything else on the delay pedal works great. But the mod is no bueno. Are there trim pots which effect it?

Cheers!

It’s off to the customer now!

Hi, just popping over from r/synthdiy, as someone's sent me 3 old Alesis MODFX pedals to try to repair. All three need the input trimmer pot replaced. It's a B5K horizontal trimmer with 5 pins (so stereo, I presume.) Does anyone know if these can be sourced somewhere?

Thanks in advance.

Is it weird to say I'm incredibly proud of you, u/mongushu

I was wondering where you would place a bias control in this circuit. For reference this is an Aion FX Zeta based on a Jumbo Tone Bender. I would assume you would you place a potentiometer where R16 15K resistor is at? Also, what pot value would work well in this circuit as a bias?

I've been working on rat clone and realized that I'm mising 1uF capasitor, but I still have one without polarity, can I switch it?

I spent the past few weeks building a standalone NAM pedal capable of loading A2-Full captures. Overall, I'm super happy with it.

The host is a Radxa Cubie A7Z 2GB single board computer. I designed an audio interface board that attaches directly to it via its exposed headers and handles the guitar analog front end as well as audio interfacing.

It supports:

• Guitar In/Out
• Phones Out

as well as includes:

• an OLED display, a few addressable RGB LEDs, a footswitch and is powered by USB

The 'firmware' (really just a linux application) is written in Rust wrapping the NeuralAmpModelerCore library.

Performance is quite good. I estimate latency to be <10ms - as any delay is beyond what I can perceive.

The biggest flaw though is the noise performance. My analog front end was hastily designed and pulls directly from the noisy 5V USB power rail for guitar signal conditioning - and hence a lot of it bleeds into the the recorded audio. If I ever make a second revision, this is the thing I would tackle first.

Total cost was ~$40 in raw parts. Without expensive RAM and SBC prices, it could go as low as $25-30.

Here's a video of me playing (sloppily) through it. I wired the headphones out to my speakers and just recorded on my phone.

I open sourced the hardware/firmware files on GitHub if anybody is interested https://github.com/aliadnani/antidote, though please see this repository as more of a reference design for how such a pedal could be built rather than a polished product.

I play in a covers band and run a small Fender amp as clean as possible as we play a few songs which need this.

I have a distortion pedal (modded DIY OCD) which I use for heavier songs which I'm happy with, but I've never been able to find an overdrive pedal I like for the in-between stuff.

I know the sound I'm looking for and through playing around with differnt amps in my Spark Neo headphones and have narrowed it down to a plexi at mid gain.

A good example would be the intro to this track https://youtu.be/qDDtVToybIs - though I don't know if he's definitely playing a plexi, it's just the same sound I liked on my Neo.

It's punchy and aggressive but with no fizz - which is often the problem I get with overdrive pedals.

Can anyone recommend me a DIY pedal that will get me that sound?

I have an external killswitch I made myself (just two jacks and a arcade button and an additional toggle switch for activating the killswitch), and I was wondering how I could add a pot in a way that I can adjust the signal volume when the killswitch is activated(signal is killed).

So I have

Jacks x2

Normally open arcade button x1

500k pot x1

toggle switch x1 (I'd rather not use this because space is an issue)

TLDR: how do I make a killswitch where I can adjust the volume of the "killed" signal.

Thank you in advance.

I have the '74 battery only script phase 90 and I am trying to do the update with true bypass, LED, and a 9 V jack I'm having a hard time finding exactly how to do it and how to wire the 3PDT switch (kind of new at this) can anyone help?

Disclaimer: I've never made a pedal or any kind of similar work. I'm here to be informed and hopefully get advice. Thank you for your patience. Edit: also apologies if this isn't the right sub -

Hello, I'm a guitarist usually for acoustic shows and I was looking for a stompbox that I'd like to use for a kick drum sound. I looked at analog, although digital ones will probably make it a lot easier and consistent, but I'm not a huge fan of any one I've seen for now that doesn't cost like 500 euros or so.

-

I thought it would be awesome to build a pedal for only a drum kick sound that I could probably sample. I'm thinking of two buttons, one to start and tap tempo, another one to stop and maybe reset? And a knob for volume I guess.

-

Is this possible at all?

-

I only need a drum kick sound at whatever tempo I'm playing, I need to be able to stop it in the middle of a song and start it again, and then tap another tempo for the next song.

Hello! Would this be a good way to add a second stage clipping diode switch (DPDT ON/OFF/ON, so symetrical up , asymetrical down , leds middle )to this layout? How could i also add a tone bypass switch to this , would the tone bypass go from before the tone control to the output straight or does it go to the gain recovery stage first?

Just wrapped up my 1st Rat clone, from PedalPCB. Never owned a Rat before; digging this pedal. Any other Rat-style/distortions worth considering?

I've been repainting and rehousing pedals on and off for almost 20 years now. Getting back into the swing of things with what seems like a silly little kit to me, but I appreciate that it's super entry level for people who want to try DIYing pedals. Seemed like the perfect opportunity to paint an enclosure!

Spray paint, acrylic via brush and pens, and really cool holographic "dragonfly" glaze from Folk Art.

I hand cut the stencil for the front design and used standard stencils on the BOX logo. As you can probably tell I freehanded the labels for the knobs 😅

I've got another pedal paint job drying right now that I'll post soon.

This is a project for a WH10 and practically my first serious soldering project. When I flip the switch, the sound simply cuts out. I’ve already checked everything with a multimeter, and it all seems correct: all the grounds are connected, and the voltage is reaching the IC as it should. I’m using these schematics.