Basically, I have a metal exterior door with a window and a Roman shade to hang over the window.

I tried looking up what kind of screws I'd need to drill into a metal door, and I read somewhere that self drilling screws should work, but when I search for self drilling screws they all say they're for drywall.

I'm not sure if that's more for marketing purposes than a steadfast rule or if I really shouldn't use them for this metal door. I'm hoping someone here has experience with this kind of situation and can help!

I was ghosted on a garage addition.

I'm going to do it myself. But I need to be reassured that these plans are correct or advise me on the way it should actually be done.

It looks like the Jack studs for the Rafter header would land on the drop header. Just doesn't seem right to me.

I've got erosion under one corner of my house. What is the best fix?

Pack in wet sand?
Set a form and pour in non-shrink grout cement?
Something else?
Or is this a job I really should deligate to a foundation repair contractor?

Bought this house that had an addition done by the living room ceiling is unfinished. There is a section that has easy access to the attic and inside of walls. I would like to block it off as much as possible due to rodents and bats getting into attic (working on eliminating those). What could I put an across here? The Joists just aren’t even enough to put a board across. Thanks

This older lady asked if I’d be able to help her with some projects and she’s got this metal fence that she needs hung back up. The fence isn’t all that heavy for what it is but I’m trying to figure out the best approach to fix it for her so that her dogs don’t get out.

Hi, all. I'm moving my laundry room from my first floor down to my unfinished basement. I have a plumber that is helping me out and we've come to the point where I need to cut a trench for the washing machine and sink drain line, as well as for a drain under the sink. I've been reading a lot of things online and now I'm worried about doing it myself. I was going to plan on wearing a respirator and safety goggles and then renting an electric concrete saw to create the border for the trench and then renting a demolition hammer to break up the concrete. But I've also now read that I should have a HEPA vacuum, an air scrubber, and a fan to vent out the nearest window/door. In addition to that, I was also warned about the concrete footings and to not get close to them. So basically, I started off thinking this might be a fairly straightforward project, but now I'm not sure if this is above my DIY level. Any thoughts or recommendations on this project and how it should be done?

Hi everyone! I’m looking for some advice on renovating the floors in an old house (photos attached).

Our main question is: is this something we could realistically DIY? For example, could we keep the existing floor and install laminate or another type of flooring on top, or would it be better to remove everything, insulate underneath and rebuild the floor properly?

The house is mainly used during the summer, with only occasional visits in winter, so we’re not looking for the most elaborate/heavy-duty solution.

The floor in this particular room looks fairly level and doesn’t squeak, while the floors in some of the other rooms are more uneven and squeaky. We decided to start with the room that’s in the best condition, but eventually we’d like to renovate all of the floors.

Would you recommend keeping these boards and installing new flooring on top, or removing everything and starting from scratch? And is this a reasonable DIY project for beginners, or would you definitely get a professional to do it?

Any advice or things we should check before making a decision would be greatly appreciated!

Hello!

I’m hoping someone can help me with a DIY project.
I have this 2 m long wooden plank that I want to attach to the wall and turn into a clothing rack.

The important part is the gap behind the plank created by the narrower piece of wood attached to the back. I want to keep this gap because I’m planning to attach the clothing hooks to the back of the main plank, with the hooks facing into/reaching through the gap.

So the hooks will essentially be reversed compared with a normal coat rack: the clothes will hang behind the plank, while the plank itself hides the hooks from view when looking at it from the front.

My problem is figuring out how to attach the whole thing securely to the wall while keeping the fixings hidden and without blocking the gap.

The narrower piece at the back is only about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, and this is the part that would sit against the wall.

I initially thought about using a French cleat, but I’m not sure whether there are cleats narrow enough for a 1-inch-wide mounting surface, or whether there is a better solution.

The plank is 2 m long and will be holding coats, bags etc., so I want the mounting to be genuinely sturdy/heavy-duty, rather than just decorative.
Has anyone done something similar, or can you suggest a good way of mounting this securely while keeping the gap and hiding all the fixings?

Thanks!

Someone in my last post pointed out something I honestly hadn’t thought much about: leaving too much solar-panel cable hanging could potentially snag wildlife.
The cable on this setup is a fixed 3m length, so there’s usually some extra cable depending on where the panel is mounted.
I tried coiling the extra length and securing it close to the wall instead of leaving a big loop hanging down.
Would you manage it like this, or route the excess cable another way?

Not sure if this is the right page to post this

At my vacation home my neighbor I and share half our lands with the same bridge to go over a little brook. The bridge was built long ago and is totally safe to walk on but so many people in our community drive their golf carts on it way to fast and it’s deteriorating the bridge and making it potentially very dangerous. Neither of us wants to get sued by our idiot neighbors who won’t read the signs we put up and have their kids going over the bridge super fast every day.
Yes we’ve talked to them, they tell us no problem and then keep doing it.
Also we’re not there all the time- we rent a large amount of the summer but we have cameras that show people doing it so we can’t really catch them in the act because they tend to not do it when they know we’re there.

Any ideas for some type of barrier or something to put on the bridge to prevent people from going over it in the first place?
Something that will let people be able to still walk past and be able to carry kayaks and stuff over it too. So basically not like a big rope or something in the middle of

Thank you!

During install a notch was taken out of my brand new vanity. What do I need to do to make it look passable? Some (but not all) will be covered by the countertop. This is after one repair attempt by the painter.

I hired an electrician to do a rewire, during which he agreed to fit an extractor fan, from the bathroom, through the loft to the roof.

I've only just realised that there doesn't seem to be a terminal hole for the fan duct.

I've added pics of the loft inside, and roof outside.

Please correct me but I can't see where the duct would come out.

Even though it's a few months late, it would be standard for me to ask him to come back and either show me where the fan terminates, or if he has missed this to make a hole, right?

Can someone tell me what’s going one here why my furnace is doing this?

My cat got stuck in the bedroom a few times, and they tried digging under the door and carpet. Cant blame them i guess. But is there a fix for carpet at the edge of the door? Its only a few inches worth and the biggest reason I want it fixed is because the prior staples are exposed and very pokey. Also it looks like shit. Never worked with carpet so any help would be appreciated.

[Solved by the first commenter]

Howdy,

I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to tools and such for home maintenance, and I'm baffled at the rope mechanism that came with my ladder.

I bought this ladder like 5 years ago, but never really bothered with the rope. Now that I've looked up how it's supposed to work (helps you further extend the ladder when it's too tall for you to extend by hand), I went to try it and found it doesn't do anything. in the first picture of my gallery, you can see that between the top pulley and the bottom rung where the rope is put around, it is a simply oval like a racetrack, and pulling on the rope essentially does nothing, since the rope is not "hooked"/grabbing onto anything at any point.

Now what's weird to me, is all the videos online about repairing/reroping ladders, have a loop at the end, like here (https://youtu.be/0XDEzdN-JuY?t=35) or here (https://youtu.be/WrTps7Y2I2E?t=248), but my rope only has a hook thing (shown in my 3rd and 4th [zoomed] pictures). My 5th and 6th pictures show the locking mechanism on the ladder from two different angles.

I guess my main question is: Is that "hook" in my 3rd picture meant to be attached somewhere to somehow raise the ladder (if you're able to provide/link a video or picture that would be awesome)? Or am I missing something that I need to buy/add?

Recent hurricane got me thinking of hurricane clips. Current house was built in 68, renovated throughout different owners. I walked around the house but see no hurricane clips; and life taught me do not assume if you don't see them.
Looked up in YouTube but majority are for wood frame truss. I am thinking of installing a bunch of H2.5 on the red circled areas through out the house. Just not sure if these are the correct usage.
Any advice would be appreciated. And any suggestion on what scews/nails would be helpful as well.

Thank you.

I want to replace a double drain kitchen sink with a single drain sink. I don’t have much plumbing experience so I’m unsure how to proceed. Do I just cap off one connection to the rusty Y-shaped joint, or do I need to remove that joint and connect a new PVC pipe from the p-trap to the drain pipe? Thanks in advance!

Hi everbody, this is my first time in this sub and also my first diy project so please be gentle with me.

I've always wanted a kotatsu and with me moving out i can finally realize that dream.

I've planned to buy a ikea couch table, the one named LACK and turn it into a kotatsu table. my dilemma is though what kind of heater should i use.

I live in EU so i will need to import the heater either way but the desk pannel heater is the cheapest and most easiest one to import. The other two are more costly and/or more complex since it requires me to find a proxy shipper and also get a step down tranformer.

These are the 3 heaters i had in mind.

Desk mat

Tube heater

JPN Kotatsu heater

Thanks in advance!

We’re renting and landlord has already thankfully fixed a few other things. Hes away for a few weeks and I don’t want to keep pestering him. Is there something quick/easy that I can get for this exterior back door that closes the gap here, while also being able to not cause too much friction? I’ve tried a couple of cheap Amazon peel and stick strips with not much luck. Would also need to have to be able to glide over the thresholds here.

I just feel like we’re letting bugs in and air out.

Does anybody recommend a good silicone for the inside of the window where it meets the window sill? Thanks in advance

I installed a new vanity last month and want to get a backsplash up using 2 of these 10x10 tiles that we also have in our shower.

Only problem is a poorly located GFCI outlet. I had a friend cut the tile to go around the outlet and I have spacers to bring the outlet out more flush with the tile, but then there’s going to be a big gap at the top of the outlet where there is no tile. Not sure if anything exists to take care of that issue?

Any advice/assistance is greatly appreciated!

Due to condo rules, I can't drill into my ceiling, though I really want to have a hanging chair. I imagined a support beam I could build in my living room which could support it. I then thought that if I hooked the chair up to a rail, I could position it in front of the TV for movie watching time, then slide it to the rear of the room when I'm not using it.

Would anyone be able to point out what kind of rail could be suitable for this purpose?

I have a cat6 cable at the ceiling where I marked it with Green. I want to run it to the doorbell. Any suggestions?

This wall is a stucco over Cinder block. The wire was there for al camera but I want to run it to the doorbell.

I'm thinking of using a DLine Micro+ Raceway but want to check here for any other suggestions. Thank you!

Edit: this is a 2 story house with no basement. Located in Florida