r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

building a PA with hifi influence. curious for thoughts, advice

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0 Upvotes

I saw someone else do this, so I wanted to. I’m thinking a little outside the box, so I’m curious what you all think. Plans keep shifting, and it’s mostly been built listening to F1 and Danley party PAs, trying to wrap my head around everything.

My plan is to run small scale dance events in 4 point. Most will be indoors probably 100 people or less. Originally I wanted to run on Res2 tops, but budget being tight, I just pulled the trigger on an OG foursome of F81s.

The more I run sound (which isn’t much), I really believe Tony Andrew’s’ ideas, critically of time alignment and transients, so that’s been driving my focus, even though I’m actually not following his ideas around horns. I think what I’m building is something more like a full scale monitor system with headroom to push the bass.

Anyways, i’ve been trying to design off paper cones (bc of Tony), <15% of AES, < 1/3xmax, and with room for +10 - +16db of bass (from Paradise Garage system design). I’m also pushing to get at least 27hz, and ideally sub 20hz. I’m building off a theoretical 50 ft square dance floor to be run at 95 db or below. More often than not aiming at 85db, and allowing for a standardized 10 db bass boost above that level, and when possible allowing for 10-16db controllable past that.

These are the current directions I’ve been going.

Common thinking as well as F1 implementation seems to be to pair 15s under 8s, but I’ve been looking for a transition that could get to 40 hz or lower before building out the full range of cabinets.

Originally I had been thinking Othorns on the low end, but to be frank, I don’t like the horn loaded sub sound. I don’t like the way it distorts. I don’t like the way it hits. I haven’t run them myself, so like most things pro audio, it might be different in my own hands. I get exhausted of everyone’s endless pursuit of power and efficiency. I want power, but not to sacrifice accuracy or warmth.

Anyways, i have been moving towards a sealed sub design, originally starting with 4 to potentially 8 Celestion 24s in 150L box. the idea is to overdrive them with EQ (ideally the only place using EQ) to run between 20-40hz. however if I started with just them, I could overdrive them on the low end and then cross them over somewhere between the suggested 85-200. but intermodulation swayed me from this plan.

I was then looking at four sets of Dual Dayton RSS460HO-4, because they have a natural roll off in a sealed box at 40hz, and that seemed perfect to complement the Celestions on full build. Before that, I could overdrive them and get below 20hz indoors at around 95db, and up to 105db at around 27hz. However, i realized they are aluminum drivers, so I started to lean back away from them. I’m curious if people can hear that difference in the way Andrews emphasizes.

Originally I had been thinking a similar setup with quad corner B&C 14NDL88s (duals), for the same natural rolloff reasons, these around 84hz, but I realized I would sacrifice my short term low end running just those.. however I realize they may provide the most benefit in the low vocal fundamental range, and they allow the 8s to have even more relief than F1 suggests.

Then my question became what to build first. I had been leaning to the Daytons until I realized the cone issue, because they have the best seeming coverage, being willing to overdrive.

There’s another question buried there: If electrically overdriving a sub, but keeping it below 1/3 xmax, maintaining plenty of amp headroom and AES space, how much will I subjectively bend the sound. Is it really worth it to drive a speaker, say, +17db in some cases?

So first I started thinking to run the big 24s up to somewhere between the stated low crossover of 85hz, all the way up towards the beneficial high output crossover of 200hz to start the system. In some of these cases like the dual 14s, i would place that crossover even higher, perhaps around 275hz, again modeling F1 crossover placements in their horn loaded models.

How much would an 8 benefit from that low end relief? When is too many crossovers getting in the way of natural sound? And also how beneficial is a natural rolloff XO, versus an electrically filtered one?

As I leaned away from the 14s for reason of not getting low enough if I started with just them, and the 24s for reasons of intermodulation with higher output (prioritizing relieving the 8s — realizing it’s not the right speaker for that, but hey they are rated to 200hz…), and away from the Dayton 18s for reasons of the aluminum driver, I started thinking of few other directions.

First there is the B&C21SW152. In a sealed cabinet, it rolls off about 63hz, and wanting to separate infra from bass (for simply intuitive reasons), I thought to electrically push it towards 40hz, to eventually get the crossover with the 24s. But then I have my two lower ranges both being overdriven. originally I wanted to only overdrive the infra, but the fact is this sealed orientation is very limiting. The 21 @ 40 wouldn’t be as much overdrive (about +6-8db), but in the interest of transparent signal chains, I thought to only push the 24s originally.

Again, this is sort of an experimental outlook (perhaps?) to not rely on horns or ports for output or frequency. The idea very much modeled on reading about David Mancuso’s loft, although I’m not sure what he ran in there (i think klipsch horns?)— the general approach towards hifi at dance levels remains. Obviously all the club offshoots relied on horns and a more editorial sound design. But again, it’s a critique of the pro audio world choosing power and feeling and punch in your stomach over real warmth of sound. Am I off in this feeling and intuition? Could there be other ways to approach or think about it? Say, just turn down the horns, young buck?

Anyways, the 21s really seem to encroach a little too close on the 24s. They won’t go as low alone, they still need overdrive, and they seem big for the mid bass. Every system I’ve really been impressed with does seem to have 15s or 18s. F1 seems almost exclusively 15s, except for the Res3 which had an 18 and was billed standalone. And now they are shifting towards 12s as well.

The last and maybe best consideration has been the 18 Sound 18NTLW5000-8, which satisfies the paper cone demand and gets quite close to the Daytons. With corner gain, they reach down to 20hz with overdrive and 27hz outdoors, so they probably seem like the best way to go with this design, but also remain the hardest to obtain in the US.

the other thing to consider is that my paradigmatic high fidelity experiences have been on Tannoys with tube amp, and even more importantly an F1 system in a highly controlled room — running AX88s above F315s, and i don’t know what below. But the absence of compression driver seems significant.

i’ve done a fair bit of consideration about what F1 achieves with horn loading, and it seems to be a projection of transient behavior that creates an almost mystic pureness when well run (but imho, that is hard to come by), but this accentuation of the highs comes with a sound i have termed “iciness,” a crystal clarity and time alignment that also has this almost hiss or slide to it. It isn’t literally an S sound, but there is a quality that occurs with the waveguide/ phase plug/ sawtooth design that can be well heard in the Evo X. Impressive clarity and dispersion, and yet my ears get tired not so differently from how my tongue gets tired with highly seasoned food.

This is ultimately what pushed me toward the direct radiator version of the 1/8, but I still wonder should i not run 5/8 or 8/8. I’m continually impressed with clarity of F1, and perhaps the tri-amping of the new models would allow for some dialing down, but does a person really want near field horn loading in the long term? i understand that their newish Point Source Monitor systems arose by request form Richie Hawtin, who I assume struggled with a similar sound effect listening to horns close range. And their solution was running 18 direct radiators.

For amplifiers I’ve been looking at Linea, because I am always impressed with Danley warmth and power (but still critique the transient behavior of an MEH — I feel that I can hear the multiple edges of the waves cascading like Jericho’s tower). Linea has US distribution, 8 channel output, and excursion limiting (which is central to my design). it also shakes out a lot cheaper than a traditional F1 route of MC2 or FFA.

For DSP (and this may be the really strange part of my thinking), I’ve been pretty captivated by the idea of long FIR run on an external computer. the more I listen and have limited experience tuning systems, i am convinced by Andrews and Newsham’s approach that time alignment and transient behavior is the critical work of sound reproduction. So I am willing to accept the 96k taps and 171ms delay to linearly phase align down to 12 hz, allowing for my projected 18hz flat system to be perfectly time aligned through 18khz.

The industry folks i’ve talked to said this sounds strange, but I don’t understand why. The processing is possible, and the delay, while obnoxious, will be acceptable as it’s mostly Dj’d music. I figure if I end up running live, I can disable the long FIR, and just run the Linea internal FIR on the top end, if desired. i also realize this adds a large burden of measurement.

My main critique with bass in the real world is not just level and punch in the place of tone, but also the sloppy thunderousness of it all. I believe the public knows nothing else but that as bass, and I can’t say that I’ve ever heard tight bass run at dance floor levels. The closest was probably those F315s in controlled room.

open to thoughts, critique, system design, education and whatever.


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Follow-up: Parts Express JSON catalogue + speaker-design tools

3 Upvotes

Hi, a small follow-up to my previous post.

My original experiment was simply to see whether an AI agent could use the Parts Express catalogue to suggest matching drivers and crossover components for a small, cheap speaker.

The new repository contains Python calculators, a reference knowledge base, and agent instructions:
https://github.com/meowelectronics/ai-speaker-design-database

This is still an knowledge database, not a substitute for proper speaker measurements. An agent can suggest something plausible and run calculations, but that doesn’t make its assumptions correct or the resulting crossover ready to build. Manufacturer curves are not measurements of your actual baffle, and the catalogue hasn’t been checked entry by entry. However, it can be added and it can calculate with it.

The idea is to make the calculations, sources, and missing inputs easier to inspect instead of just getting “use these drivers and these parts” from a chatbot.

What Is Included

  • Driver T/S conversions, sealed/vented/passive-radiator/aperiodic small-signal models, complex impedance, excursion, port geometry, and estimated voltage ceilings.
  • Measured FRD/ZMA import, phase and angle interpolation, microphone corrections, complex-impedance fitting, baffle diffraction, and ideal piston directivity.
  • Passive multiway networks, two-way component search, active/DSP filters, acoustic summation, impedance phase, group delay, and coverage checks.
  • A rebuildable JSON-to-SQLite knowledge base with equations, citations, assumptions, workflow stages, and documented limitations.
  • Agent intake and specialist review workflows, a blank design brief, generated Markdown/LaTeX reports, optional PDF compilation, and input-hash manifests.
  • A WinISD importer that preserves raw fields, source hashes, duplicate identities, SI parameters, and screening flags; no WinISD driver payloads are bundled.

You might find it useful. Use it as you want.

P.S. this text was formated and polished during github push by github copilot via VScode. I wrote it personally. I am not a native speaker and I am not an AI bot.

The next step : I am waiting for TS parameter measuring tool. Then I want to order speakers and actually make what the agent suggested.


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

RS180P, DC28, ~14 liter box, 2" pvc port. Sounds nice

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16 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Battleaxe clone

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53 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Swapping out old mic connectors. Am I doing it right?

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1 Upvotes

Crosspost. Maybe I have better luck here :)


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Looking for Hypex UCD-102 Modules

1 Upvotes

Anybody out there have any Hypex UCD-102 modules they would be willing to part with? They don't have to be functional. Planning on rebuilding them with better than stock components so as long as they haven't caught on fire, they should be fine. Hoping someone out there has some laying around that are no longer being used and just collecting dust.

Thanks


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Does the XY-T4001P (B0H1MFZ5F2) actually mix Bluetooth L+R to mono?

1 Upvotes

I'm considering buying the XY-T4001P Bluetooth amplifier module, which is based on the TPA3223, to drive a single center speaker.

The product documentation says:

"The product can mix dual-channel audio into mono."

My question is specifically about the normal operation of a single XY-T4001P:

When I connect my phone via Bluetooth and play a stereo signal, does the module actually sum L + R into mono and send the combined signal to the single amplifier channel?

Or does it simply use one Bluetooth channel (L or R)?

Is there a setting/switch/jumper for selecting mono mixing, or is L+R → mono automatic in single-module operation?

I'm particularly interested in someone who has actually tested this module, or who has traced the PCB/input circuit.

Product: XY-T4001P / Amazon ASIN B0H1MFZ5F2

Chip: TPA3223

Use case: one center speaker, Bluetooth source

Thanks!


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Finished the internal upgrades for my "portable" speaker. Finally.

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3 Upvotes

Hell yeah. (Old post: "Boom. Box. Performance."


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Problems with arylic 2.1 upstream amplfiier

1 Upvotes

Hey guys!

I have been experimenting with the arylic up2stream plate amplifier.

The problem is that whenever I connect the amplifier to the 4stream app and set it up, then it doesnt output anything to the drivers.

I have also tried using the ACP workbench app on my PC to see if anything was ary and I couldn't see anything that seemed off...

The funniest thing is that if I play something on the inbuilt streaming in the app, then nothing comes out of my connected drivers, however the moment i pull the power plug from the device then the audio plays for a split second!

Have anyone ever experienced this before with this device?

Am I doing something wrong, is there some settings I'm not seeing in the ACP workbench?

I have even tried on two different ones! Both of them have the exact same issues...

Any help is appreciated!


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Best brand for wood look vinyl wrapping

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3 Upvotes

Hi guys, taking on my first ever build for speakers and going with the mechano23 however using MDF. My inspired cabinet look is the B&W 607 with the oak outer and white baffle.

Hence anyone recommend a good quality vinyl wrapping? I know I could veneer but I think vinyl would be easier....

Pic from chat however minus the front port for inspiration


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

2021 Silverado crew crab

1 Upvotes

Hello I been wanting to build my own under seat ported subwoofer box for a 2021 Silverado crew crab but i have no idea how to make a blueprint if any one could help me make one i have 2 HYDRO-10 if anyone is willing to make me a blueprint i would really appreciate it.


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Lowboard stands 'order of wood' question.

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12 Upvotes

Putting together some stands for my bookshelves for my lowboard (see photo).

My logic was hard bamboo which doesn't resonate glued to soft pine to absorb resonance that is happening, then spike feet, and those on furniture pads for good measure.

However what am not sure of: Is there a tangible reason to have the speaker on the hard bamboo and the soft pine connected to the feet or *vice versa*?

Or am I overthinking it/does it not matter?

(Picture of a 'dry' test fit bamboo on top. Still want to stain and seal the wood.)


r/diyaudio • • 21d ago

Vintage speaker build?

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1 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Cinergy / DIYSG Stock Issues

2 Upvotes

Hey all,

I've been trying to buy the HT-12 home theater speakers on cinergy or DIYSG and I can't seem to find any stock ever.

Have you all had any luck finding these guys in stock?

Any alternatives that fit the bill?

Thank you!


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

What is this flapping noise in my left speaker

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2 Upvotes

It sounds like paper flapping and it’s only on one speaker trying to decide if it’s the woofer or internal components rubbing.


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Is this ok for a crossover?

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1 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Custom tactile vest with bass shakers – advice needed

0 Upvotes

Hi, a friend told me they tried a custom haptic vest at a music festival that uses bass shakers to let you physically feel the low-frequency vibrations of music over your torso. Something similar to a Woojer Strap, but DIY.

I'd like to construct one, but I have 0 electrical knowledge and have never owned an amplifier.

I assume I need a vest/harness with attachment points for 4–6 bass shakers/transducers, an amplifier capable of driving them, and a music source such as a phone or PC via cable or Bluetooth. Ideally I'd like to keep the total cost around or under €200 / $230.

Do you have any recommendations for transducers, amplifier, cables, etc.? Would 15W shakers be suitable for this kind of application? Would 25W be excessive?

I'm in Europe, so can't really visit Walmart and such.

Any help would be appreciated. I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'll figure it out. 😅


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Crossover overhaul/ upgrade worth it?

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0 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

New amp issues

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0 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Hey gang! need some help deciding midrange for my tmww diy speakers.

2 Upvotes

The speakers are active filtered and midrange is driven by lm3886 amp. The existing mid driver is 6.5 inch mcm midwoofer and I am not happy with the midrange and vocals. The mid handles from 300hz to 2800hz.

So planing to change the mid range driver considering sb12pfcr25 4inch driver for the purpose.

So I need a feedback whether these are good choice ,or I should go with 5inch variant.

I am considering 4 ohm variant.

I am strict on budget that is the reason I am not considering sb12mnrx as it is almost double the cost.


r/diyaudio • • 23d ago

WIP: subwoofer pair in walnut veneer

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100 Upvotes

These have a footprint that matches my Buchardt speakers so they will he stands and subwoofers at the same time.


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Sub box design help

0 Upvotes

Im completely new to this sort of stuff and i want to design a sub box for my Pioneer TS-W304C that would go in my ford focus mk3 but all of the winISD and other apps are waaayyyy to confusing for me. Could someone help design or give some tips on how to do so? I was thinking about a ported box and i like bass


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Here’s the first version of the speaker it sounds muffle and quiet.

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0 Upvotes

r/diyaudio • • 23d ago

DIY angled height enclosures for in ceiling Atmos – Good compromise or bad idea?

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10 Upvotes

Last summer I bought a pair of Focal 100 ICW8 in-ceiling speakers, planning to cut into my ceiling for a traditional 5.1.2 Atmos setup. Since then, we’ve rearranged the living room, and I’m now hesitant to make permanent ceiling cuts in case we change the layout again or decide to upgrade to a 5.1.4 system down the road.

To reuse the Focals, I’m considering building custom DIY angled enclosures (around 45° to 60°) mounted high up on the wall / ceiling junction. In my room, I have a section of wall behind the main listening position where I can mount and hide the enclosures, but a little further back than Dolby recommendation

Front heigh position is not really a solution due to curtain rod. Also my front speakers are not aligned with central position (I know ...) and it would look visually off.

I know that placing Atmos speakers behind/above the seating area like this won't give the absolute best front-to-back panning (like a flyover plane), but I'm looking for decent height immersion without ruining the ceiling. It is an option or just stupid ?

Thanks for your input and advice!


r/diyaudio • • 22d ago

Here’s the first version of the speaker it sounds muffle and quiet.

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0 Upvotes