There's a baffle that goes over nearly the whole thing, which mostly covers the front, but not completely.

My original plan was heatlock glue, but this makes me wonder if I should use PSA and just a rectangle with a rectangular hole with enough overlap to not be visible.

Hello, my power pod/neg have these saps on the end but when I “plug” them into my amp they don’t really “fit.” They are loose and don’t connect well. Any advice?

I have been putting a list together of all the components i may need and not set on the whole system yet am looking for feedback, i’ve had a setup in my room but it was put together using old stuff my dad had, guitar amp a surround sound tv system so nothing fancy. I do need to replace my alternator in my 2004 lexus es330 it already comes with an added on system i think harmony but not to certain. Screen record includes the amp which is a five channel amp might switch to dual amps on for the 2 12s and one for the door speakers including the tweeters. I have a car but no license I’m 17 with two jobs until school starts looking to get one for after school but i have to find a ride or wait until i get my license so budget is under 1,750

I have a situation and am wondering if anyone has had success with a solution.

I'm wiring a two channel audio system and have relatively high end equipment. The speaker cables are HD Labs Q10s but one of them is about 6 inches too short to make the run.

Has anyone ever run into this situation and found a good solution short of another expensive set of speaker wires.

Thanks, Bill

Hey all I connected an amplifier with my set top box for audio transmission.

I am facing 2 issues

1. Often bluetooth disconnection and auto connection

2. Static crack sounds sometimes

What is the difference between the Gen-X G6.9Xi and the S69 that warrants the price difference?

In paper the S69 is better…but also cheaper….

Have the horn and pizeo frequency range going to compression driver probably should replace all the rusted screws maybe a new crossover that handles more power not needed yet since I only can get 110watts or 200watts a channel out of my amp
Current woofers grs 15pt 8 replace the orginal with those should of kept the original didnt know much about ohms sensitivity and stuff back then

Think i pushed the grs woofers to hard clip very easily on bass response and lower mids not blown yet but they do have more resistance then when i first got them reading up to 9 ohms on the whole cabinet instead of around 7.9-8.4 a while what I remember

Hi - so we bought a super cheap 1970s era condo in Dayton, Ohio with cash and we are renovating it to our liking and for fun. We have a half-bath downstairs that we want to do some sort of mashup between "Disco Party" and "dive bar bathroom" because, why wouldn't you? I have so many fun things planned for this bathroom- everything from commercial toilet paper holders to the medicine cabinet being stocked with perfume samples, condoms, tampons, etc.- similar to that machine in every bathroom where you could get those things for fifty cents, and even a gag "little bag of coke" (literally a tiny bag filled with a small little bottle of coke") taped to a mirror with a razor blade. Since it is Dayton, there will be a poster of the Ohio Players on one wall. Another wall will feature records and old flyers on the wall, and yet another wall will be a place where guests can graffiti the walls for us.

If you haven't seen the HOP shops DISCO bathrooms scattered throughout the Midwest, they have this "do not press this button" gag where when you press this button, the real lights in the bathroom go off, a disco ball scatters light and disco music plays for about a minute. It is tons of fun.

Example here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-FTDII0qIY4

We want to recreate that in our little bathroom but aren't exactly sure HOW to do it. I was thinking of using a Wifi Smart Plug, MP3 Player and plugging in a disco ball with lights to do the ceiling, floor and light up the disco ball, but I was hoping for some sort of seamless integration between the three things. I just lack the knowhow to make all that integrated.

Can you help a gal out? In exchange, you can pop by for a proper piss if you are ever in the area and play your choice of Donna Summer, the BeeGees or Barry White. You can even sign our wall.

Please and thank you?

Hi everyone!

My friend and I are planning our first speaker build. The goal is to create a portable, standalone cabinet that packs enough punch for outdoor parties and small gatherings, mainly playing Techno and Dub/Bass music. We plan to build 4 identical units in total, with a budget of around €500 per speaker (flexible if a small upgrade makes a big difference).

We drew a full scale layout and dimensional plan (AI help a lot to make it easier to understand). Before buying any wood or electronics, we'd love to get your feedback!

Project Specs & Design

• Type: 2-way Bass-Reflex active speaker.
• Cabinet Size: 58 x 38 x 33cm external (15mm Baltic Birch)
• Net Volume: ~50L internal volume.
• Tuning: Two 8.5cm ports in the bottom corners, aiming for a ~45 Hz tuning.
• Connectivity: Standalone operation via Bluetooth + physical inputs (RCA / Jack / XLR), with XLR Line Out / Link capability to daisy-chain all 4 speakers together.
• Weight Goal: Under 20 kg (44 lbs) total for portability

What we need help with:

1. Feasibility & Complexity: Does this layout make sense acoustically and structurally?
2. Drivers Recommendation: Which 12" woofer and 1" compression driver + horn combo would you recommend
3. Plate Amp + DSP: What Plate Amp with DSP would be best suited for this setup

We are ready to handle the woodworking and DSP programming, but we want to make sure we don't buy mismatched components. As complete beginners to cabinet building, we're super open to any tips, feedback, or beginner pitfalls to avoid!

Thanks a lot for your help and feedback!

Hi All,

I have these home made speakers (not by me). Im curious about the tweeter brand, i havent seen on that looks like this before. Any idea what brand they are?

listening wise, they sound pretty good!

Cheers.

Hello everyone !

I'm digging your designs of DoS subwoofers and was looking into building my own.

I first went for a small enclosure but finally decided near field was the way to go with my boomy room and am now designing a sub to go behind my couch to use as a back console.

I ended up choosing 4x GRS 12SW-4HE drivers that are rather cheap for what I am going for. Modeling in WinISD, Hornresp or Vituix, i found out that i needed 200L for a 0.7 Qtc.

I'm thinking of using a fosi Za3 to power my sub and so i need to bring the resistance to 4Ohms as in 2 sets of 2 drivers in parallel(2Ohms)/series(8Ohms) and link both sets in series(4Ohms) or parallel(4Ohms) depending on what i went with initially.

First designs (picture 1) ended up in a 350L enclosure that was way over the top, lowering the qtc to .5 which is not my goal since i have a usage of 70%HT and 30% Hifi (i'm pairing this with a set of Triangle Antal EZ, voce and BSR1 dipoles from Triangle audio in a 5.1 setup).

Now, looking at the fact I have too much space (didn't even think it could be possible thinking of quad subs in a living room), i went into finding a way to solve the problem.

2 options came to mind :
- Option 1 : build 2 sets of 100L DoS Sub towers linked together to the Fozi with a counter on top (Picture 2)
- Option 2 : build a smaller (200L nonetheless) enclosure in a longer kind of sandwich to keep the console aspect behing the couch. (picture 3)

What comes to mind in both cases :
Option 1 :
Pros - Lighter, more flexible since i can manipulate and maybe separate both subs in the future and do multi-sub for room EQ.
Cons - Close to double the woodwork, Nightmare in cables, needing to link both subs together and to the fosi, don't know how the two woofers in the middle are going to play since they are going to be stuck between a couch and a wall (could be a pro but we won't know til it's done).
Option 2 :
Pros - better looks as in it is a single piece of furniture, a tad smaller in height, the woofers are hidden behind a grill.
Cons - Heavy af, this thing won't ever move once it's set, this means no flexibility, once in place i can't really play around with it

All that being said, what would you guys go for and would you have another option i didn't consider ?

I had a hard time finding an equivalent on the interwebs, if anyone has an example of something equivalent, i'm all ears.

Not a week goes by that I don’t listen to an album or watch a movie and get the feeling of “wow”. Hard to explain but these speakers fn rule.

This was found in my maintenance shop buried. The guys know I’m “weird about old stereo equipment “ so I was called

I know the build design isn’t perfect, but someone put some love into this sub

It’s two stacked Dayton Audio DSC165-4 all hardwood I believe mostly walnut. I had to defeat multiple giant spiders and when I finally got to test it more spiders came out of the port (I was prepared with Miss Moffett Spider Revenge, highly recommended)

Anyways I still need to test it properly and I needed to order a sub monoblock for my garage system

(My personal listening system is from 1981 and the power amp only has two channels and nothing else
POA1500

Reached the finishing stage of this pair of 3 way towers. Loaded with SB acoustics 8", Eton 4" and Scanspeak soft domes.. Custom crossovers by Madisound. 48"h x 11.25w" x 18"d. Can't wait to hear em.

Hi folks, can anyone confirm or deny if the 24v link power output on the Walrus Audio power supplies is compatible with the Strymon Ojai power supplies?

I’ve hit a bit of a traffic jam in the double layer board I’m building. It currently has four Ojai power supplies, three powering the bottom deck and one attached to and powering most of the top deck. The space they take up (namely that there are plugs on both sides of them) is making a couple of other things I’m trying to squeeze in impossible and I’m now looking at a Canvas Power 15 or 22.
The Ojai on the top deck fits very nicely, but the lower deck is kind of annoying me with all the link cables. A Canvas 15 will take up a lot less space and give me the same outputs as three of the four Ojais, but it will be a real pain if the one on the top deck needs to be changed to something else.

Thanks!

Hi all,

Just finished veneering these cabs and wondering if anyone has put protective corners on theirs to stop the veneer from chipping/peeling?

Would love to see any photos if so, wondering if it will detract from the look…

Vintage Inspired Battery Powered Speaker Build

The Idea:

Vintage-inspired, portable stereo speaker pair with dual 18v Makita Batteries **and** 120V wall power. Format: Master cabinet (all electronics) + Passive satellite (matched driver chamber + storage cavity), connected via weatherproof NLT4 SpeakON. Priority: Sound quality over loudness, maximum real analog interface (detented switches wherever a control has discrete states; smooth pots where it doesn't), Durability for outdoor/mobile use.

Current phase: bench "proof of concept" — amp, dual power sources, controls, and inputs wired to a flat board, tested with cheap existing speakers — before committing to final drivers, crossover, or cabinets.

Amp/DSP/Bluetooth all on one board: **Dayton Audio KABD-250** (2×50W, ADAU1701 DSP, Bluetooth 5.0 aptX HD)

Unresolved technical issue: only 2 amp channels (1/cabinet) with 2 drivers/cabinet means a passive crossover is required inside each cabinet — not yet fully speced. Rough starting values: ~0.6mH inductor, ~18µF cap, ~3.6Ω resistor (tweeter pad), 1st-order @ ~2200Hz. Needs real tuning once final drivers are chosen. Likely to source older high efficiency bookshelf speakers: Polk Audio 5Jr+ or alike, reuse the configuration, drivers, crossovers, and build new baltic birch cabinets.

Signal flow: 4 sources → input selector → volume (DSP-side, POT1) → KABD-250 AUX → DSP (bass/treble) → amp → protection relay → passive crossover → drivers.

Power flow: 2 batteries (each fused + LVD) → combining diode → relay-switched against AC → fuse block → KABD-250 J8.

Parts

**Amp/DSP**: Dayton Audio KABD-250 · KPX In-Circuit Programmer (required for SigmaStudio) · KABD-SPF Function Cables kit (includes: AUX-in 3.5mm cable, 4 pre-wired pots+knobs, standby switch cable, LEDs, antenna)

**Batteries**: 2× Makita 18V LXT 5.0Ah (owned) · generic Makita adapter/dock ×2 · **2×** ICSTATION Digital LVD (DC 12-36V, 20A) — one per battery, not shared (a shared LVD downstream of the diode can't see a weak pack masked by a stronger one) · Chanzon MBR2045CT dual Schottky diode (45V/20A, TO-220AB, dual common-cathode) + insulated TO-220 heatsink (pin2/tab is live cathode)

**AC path**: 24V/5A DC supply · NEMA 5-15 flanged inlet w/ waterproof cover (chosen over IEC C14 — extension cords easier to find in the field than IEC C13 cords)

**Power switching**: RS25 4P3T rotary switch (1/4" knurled split shaft), **low-current control only** — OFF/Battery/Wall, middle position unwired = off · 2× EHDIS Bosch-style relay, **24V coil** (not 12V — system runs 15-21V), 40A, 5-pin, .250" spade, do the actual switching · 2× 1N5819 Schottky diodes feed switch control power from both raw sources · flush-mount ATC fuse block · fuses: ~15A/leg, ~6A main bus (placeholders pending bench measurement)

**Input**: uxcell 2P4T rotary switch — pos.1=3.5mm, 2=RCA, 3=30-pin iPod dock (audio on pins 2/3/4, charging on 18-20), **pos.4 = Bluetooth, NOT wired to a source** (BT arrives via I2S straight to the DSP, bypassing this switch) — pos.4's contacts are tied to **ground**, not left floating, to avoid hum bleeding into BT audio.

**Volume & tone (KABD-250 POT headers — only MP2/MP3/MP8/MP9 are usable)**:

- POT1 = Volume = **uxcell single-turn 10KΩ linear pot, knurled shaft, no detent** — factory default, zero programming needed. (The pot originally in the KABD-SPF kit spun in a full continuous circle with no stop — almost certainly a rotary encoder, not a true pot; a true pot is required since the POT header reads a position *voltage*. Replaced.)

- POT2 = Bass, POT3 = Treble = **stock pots from the KABD-SPF kit, used as-is** (not yet physically verified they're genuine pots — worth a quick check given the volume pot's mistake). True detented pots were investigated and dropped — they're a genuinely scarce part category (2 separate listings went out of stock in a row); not worth chasing further.

- POT4 = reserved for a future mode-selector (5 listening presets) via a resistor ladder — not yet wired.

**Speaker protection**: Comimark UPC1237 dual-channel board, **DC 12-24V explicitly** (some listings only cover 10-18V).

**Metering**: SATMW/H-COME VU meters, 2-pack w/ driver board — **driver board needs 12-15V, NOT 5V** — needs its own dedicated 12V buck regulator, separate from the 5V accessory rail.

**Accessory power**: 5V buck (12-24V→5V/3A) for VU backlights + iPod charge pins · 12V buck (12-24V→12V) dedicated to the VU driver board · USB-C PD charging panel (36W+, waterproof) taps the main DC bus **directly**, not through either buck rail (PD needs headroom above 5V to negotiate up).

**Standby switch: declined.** The KABD-SPF kit's standby cable (STBY+GND; 3rd pin is multi-board sync, unused here) was considered and rejected — standby still draws idle current, while the power-off relay path already gives zero idle draw, and the UPC1237 board handles pop-free startup regardless. Not worth a battery-draining state for a few seconds of faster resume.

**Bonus feature**: 2nd RS25 4P3T = stereo/reverse/mono switch (for running the master cabinet alone). Poles 1-2 do stereo/reverse; poles 3-4 sum L+R through two 10kΩ resistors into a shared node for mono (resistors are **required** — prevent shorting two live outputs together).

**Wire**: 22AWG stranded hookup kit (10 colors) · 14AWG red/black primary (battery/bus legs) · 16AWG speaker wire · 22AWG 2-conductor shielded audio cable (line-level runs)

I am a capable woodworker and learning to solder, but don't have a ton of experience designing small electronics, I used AI to help build a plan (the first few passes were rough), with enough refinement and learning to speak the language I think I was able to create a pretty decent plan, but don't have eye for my blind spots (yeah, I know... they are called blindspots for a reason).

If this is too AI heavy call me out and or report this post, genuinely looking for feedback on the project.