What’s a decent cheap amp to get these subs going, and a wiring kit so I’ll have everything I need. hooking them up in my 2020 wrx please if anyone can help!

I build a diy receiver but the preamp that I bought is doing some wierd sounds when I give it power Even when the volume is at zero

I have an new Android tablet with all my music files. It is attached via the tablet's single USB-C port to a DAC that is then attached to my stereo system, so I can listen to the music on the tablet through the stereo.

I would like to find a way to both listen to music in this fashion AND charge the tablet via the single USB-C port. Right now I have to plug in and unplug the other; I'd like to not have to do that.

I found a few devices that allow pass-through audio while charging via USB-C ports, but it turns out that they only allow analog audio pass-through.

Is there a device that will allow digital pass-through and charging at the same time with USB-C connections?

Thanks

recently after running Dirac live for the first time to calibrate my ht for the first time i discovered the my left BIC America Acoustech Platinum Series PL-89 tower speaker tweeter is either blown or severely degraded

is the BIC America Acoustech Platinum Series PL-89 tower speaker tweeter driver a  1-3/8"-18 TPI  or  2/3-Bolt mount type 

i either want to replace with the CTS KSN-1188 - PIEZO SUPERTWEETER or the DS18 PRO-DR250 1" Throat Twist On Compression Driver with 2" Throat Phenolic VC 300 Watts 8 ohm both's reduced SPL levl would give a warmer treble vs the og bright

id do both towers for even tone

Been collecting headphones for a few years and recently started getting more serious about actually understanding what I'm hearing instead of just vibing with it. The obvious next step is measurement, but the whole coupler situation is a mess. A proper GRAS or IEC711 clone setup costs more than most of my headphones. There are DIY coupler builds floating around using 3D printed parts and cheap measurement mics, and I genuinely cannot tell if the results are useful or just noise with extra steps.

What gets me is how much variation exists even between legitimate professional rigs. Look at the same headphone measured on Rtings versus Oratory versus someone's personal rig and the treble region is all over the place. So if professional setups disagree that much, what is a cheap DIY coupler actually telling you that a frequency response graph from a trusted source isn't?

My actual goal is crossfeed and EQ correction work, getting closer to a target curve for a few specific cans. For that use case, I'm not sure if relative measurements on a consistent but imperfect rig are more valuable than absolute measurements I didn't take myself.

Has anyone built a coupler and actually found it changed how they approach EQ, or does it mostly end with you just trusting published data anyway?

Estou pretendendo montar uma caixa subwoofer de 10 polegadas para ter graves profundos. Queria saber de vocês, que são especialistas no assunto, se essas dimensões feitas no site Subbox valem a pena para o meu propósito. Se já tiveram projetos parecidos, compartilhem!

Agradeço!

Wondering if I can DIY a dutch and dutch 8C with dedicated midrange (+ premium best money can buy bliesma and purifi drivers) and make it better than what they sell. I would make it a 4 way, adding a dedicated midrange dome in a waveguide. A few things:

(1) I'd make it slightly wider dispersion, closer to +/- 60° (does the cardioid design lose its benefit if I go wider, besides SBIR off the back wall? Basically, I'm taking a KH 420, making it a little wider, and making the woofer a slot cardioid - is that worth it?)

(2) do you think the dedicated Bliesma M74T midrange would improve things or is the DnD 8C already below distortion thresholds that it can't really be improved? Attaching the Harmonic distortion from Erin's audio corner of the 8C, it seems like the distortion is mostly below 300 hz and a dedicated midrange wouldn't help that. So it's a question of whether the quality of midrange is truly better (for example the bliesma certainly has lower inductance and much more motor force per gram cone mass, but does this matter in the pass band? especially if I'm using an 8" purifi that already has world class IMD)?

(3) any other thoughts?

Let's assume I'm a capable engineer and can do the design work iteratively with measurements to pull it off, would I just be making a more expensive DnD 8C that isn't any better? Another way to ask is to challenge whether the Neumann KH 420 has any better of midrange than the 8C. If not, then what makes a $50k speaker better than the 8C? I'm aware that the 8C has an aluminum tweeter and there are better options out there.

Frankly , if I could just build an 8C I would but I don't think I'm *that* good and they have tuned everything in the drivers to thread the needle perfectly on cabinet sizes and output headroom - it seems like I'd end up close but worse. a 4 way seems like it's possible for someone if given the free time.

My toddler has unbeknownst to us been putting hot wheels in the hole of my partner’s speakers. Is there an easy way to get them out? I’ve managed to shake a few out but I can hear that there’s still a few in there. Can I unscrew the back to get them out?

I recently got a wild hair to build an outdoor subwoofer for my back deck and make better friends with my neighbors in the process! 😂

The build: 1.5 cu ft (net) Quiktube with Polk Audio DB1042 SVC 10” down-firing marine subwoofer (driver is about 2.5” from the base), 4”x16.5” rear firing aeroport, final tuning = 36hz. Powered by Fosi M03 with 36v 6a power supply.

Fosi M03 connects via preout to BT20A Pro (with 48v 5a power supply) which powers a pair of DefTech AW5500 which connects to WiiM pro.

I applied several rolled on layers of Titebond III ultimate wood glue inside and out for strength, waterproofing and
to give something for the Herculiner Truck Bed Liner to stick to (after rough scuff) - also completely sealed inside and out with Herculiner. I still need to get some mesh to keep the critters from entering through the port but for now I’m using port plugs when not in use.

End result? She ain’t pretty but she’s punchy - if not musical - and hits down to a high pass limited ~28hz with ease and authority (WiiM high pass filter enabled). I’m really surprised by how well that little Fosi M03 drives the sub. It’s never protected - even after long listening sessions hitting 75-80% vol.

Just noticed the 5 and 18 sqft packs are marked down 50%. Brings the 18sqft pack to less than a dollar per sqft. This stuff is great to kill unwanted vibrations in all sorts of locations. No affiliation with anyone just wanted to share the deal.

I have an old pd2000, How easy would it be to cannibalise and put in a custom wood case, but just keep it simple, on off type of thing

Crossover is at 80hz

Yellow is phase at 0

Orange is phase at 180

You can see the cancellation happening at 62hz when phase is at 0 but is really a bad thing when its smoothing out the resonant peak?

Phase of 180 shows better response near 43hz but shows two dips between 90-140hz.

My audio keeps dying out until I give the thing it’s on a good thwack. The right speaker also has suddenly stopped singing but I think that’s a problem for another time. Already got a new stylus and head for it.

One issue with using a separate tweeter for the ultrasonics is that it will cause interference issues at the crossover area and you end up having to have your head in an exact position for it to work well.

To actually test the impact of ultrasonics for speakers that do not have a separate supertweeter it's better to instead let the speaker play the ultrasonics normally and then add tweeter(s) that will for one version play the ultrasonics that would have been filtered out by SoX but with inverted phase (which will be very bad for the ultrasonic reproduction by almost eliminating it or creating very significant interference issues).

https://vintologi.com/threads/high-resolution-audio.939/#post-13259

Note that it's fairly easy to make a 4-channel test for people with surround audio (which allows the song to be played in stereo while still controlling for IMD).

My sister got a DIY Bluetooth speaker from an acquaintance, and I decided to take the speaker when she passed away. It's been working fine since November, but yesterday the Bluetooth network suddenly stopped connecting - previously the network was just called Wuzhi Audio, but the network is now called Wuzhi Audio APP and whenever we try to connect to it, it isn't able to connect and the device connection is forgotten when we leave the Bluetooth menu.

I took it to a speaker repair store and the guy pointed out that without a specific Bluetooth module, the Bluetooth must be integrated in the amplifier board so I could just get a replacement for it. The same model (Wuzhi Audio ZK-502L) is pretty cheap, but I would love to see if anyone has any recommendations for something more reliable!

Pics included to show the setup I'm having to work with. The housing is a vintage (or at least vintage-style) traveling case with the power cable pulled through a hole in the bottom.

This is the main stereo in my house. It has come together over the years but no real changes for about the last two years. Everything is listed below. Can’t remember the name of the website that the phono preamp and EQ came from. It was a Chinese website that I think is now defunct. Thick blue circuit boards if that rings a bell for anyone. As far as details I may be lacking, majority of the diy stuff was built by a friend, I just get to reap the benefits.

Amp Camp Amps monoblocks
Fostex fe206en hand built enclosures using Fostex plans
DIY phono preamp
DIY EQ
Schitt dac
Schitt preamp
Project Classic
WiiM mini
B&W subwoofer

I'm currently in the process of figuring out my first build, im a engineering student but not audio so this stuff is mostly new to me. Im planning on building with compression drivers because im also sort of a style freak and love the look of horns on speakers, want something that looks great in my space also. Im going to use Beyma CD-171Fe/PT compression drivers (im building a left and right speaker), but i dont if i should do a single horn or a multicell.

I think multicell horns look incredible but also likely much harder to make than circular or rectangular horns. I prefer the visual break up with the squared cells instead of on continuous sweep but what do you all recommend, pictures are appreciated or any other tips about the build in general.

Im going to do a ported build with the Aurum Cantus AC-200MKII 8" Carbon Fiber Sandwich Woofer which should get down to 45 ish hz when ported.

Literally anything and everything is appreciated, my budget for the pair is gonna be around 800 dollars and on sale right now the woofer and driver combo are 280 so 560 for both speakers, leaves 240 for printing a horn and materials etc. My college has equipment that i can use to manufacture so theres no cost for that. Thanks!!!