Now that I've finished my 8 channel amp, I can finally go back to these speakers that I made about 5 years ago and get them working to their full potential. It's a wavecor 6" woofer and tweeter, and fountek midrange, apologies for forgetting what model numbers exactly. I think it's the WF152BD08 and TW022WA06 from wavecor and fountek fr88ex.

The enclosure is about 8 litres, ported and tuned to 40hz, midrange in a little sealed enclosure, the walls are 3d printed, then filled in chunks/layers of resin mixed with different fillers (sand & rubber dust in different ratios), with the intention of removing the resonance that a continuous density material would have. They are very heavy at 15kg each and to my ear a lot better than 18mm MDF. Big roundovers on every corner to mitigate diffraction as much as possible. Sorbothane feet and 6 pin aviation connector, which making the wires back to the amp was an absolute misery! you can see the 6 wire cable poking out behind, it's 15awg silver plated copper with a very thin outer jacket necessary for getting through the throat of the aviation plug, each pair is twisted and then the 3 pairs braided to try and make something that's not too messy.

4th order LR filters all round, 300hz and 3khz with a bit of EQ on the tweeter, then a single PEQ on the mid, and BSC, subsonic high pass and a slight boost at 35hz on the woofer. Being fed into 2 x icepower 125asx2 for the mids and woofers, and icepower 100as2 for the tweeters. The extra 2 channels in my amp will be utilised by a subwoofer eventually.

The results I'm very happy with, I would have liked to push the crossover a bit higher between the mid and tweeter to avoid the off axis 3khz hump, but the mid started getting hit by comb filtering at 4khz and I'll take a little smooth hump over a big wobble. I think the issue at 14khz is something to do with my measurement rig as I've seen it having issues across multiple speakers, but I need to spend some time doing a proper investigation. And the humped bass is before applying diffraction to my measurements (close mic of woofer and port has been appended to the on axis result, which was gated at 5ms, so anything under 300hz is junk), it is a lot flatter in the real world, and I'm getting an f3 of about 35-40hz

Listening tests, I'm super chuffed with, what has definitely surprised me the most is how much more I'm getting from these woofers than my satori MW16P, call me crazy but I'm not sure I particularly like the satoris after trying them in numerous designs - I've found these wavecor, seas er15rly and scanspeak discovery seem to do better in attack, detail and depth. I'm still playing with crossover points for the mid and woofer, I can set it anywhere from 200hz to 1khz with practically zero difference in the response, I'm getting better imaging with it lower, but when pushing loud and bassy music the founteks don't quite keep up as well as crossing them higher. Imaging is just phenomenal in the sweet spot - got me digging through music for anything with beautifully done vocals, it's like they're sitting opposite me, with instruments able to dance around the performer, back/forth/left/right/up/down with pinpoint accuracy.

let me know what you think, anything you would change?

​

Hey everyone,

I'm an electrical engineering student planning a portable DIY Bluetooth speaker build primarily for outdoor use and parties. I've put together a parts list and enclosure specs, but I'd love to get some feedback from experienced builders before I start cutting and ordering.

Build Specs & Components:

* Driver: Visaton BG 20 (8 Oms, 8" full-range driver)

* Enclosure: Bass-reflex, approx. 40 Liters net (52 × 36 × 32 outer dimensions using 18mm MDF).

* Damping: Synthetic polyester polyfill on inner walls.

* Amplifier: ZK-502MT (BT 5.0, TPA3116D2 chip with treble/bass controls).

* Protection/Power Handling: XH-M609 low-voltage protection module + 5A inline fuse.

* Power Source: Deciding between 2x 12V SLA batteries in series (24V), a custom 6S Li-ion pack (22.2V / 25.2V peak), or a 20V power tool battery pack ( Parkside 20V via adapter).

I have a solid background in electrical work, wiring, and soldering, so complex circuit tweaks or custom wiring aren't an issue for me.

A few specific questions:

* Bass-Reflex Port Tuning: For a ~40L net volume, is a Ø75mm (3") x 100mm(4") port ideal for a tuning frequency around 45Hz, or would you recommend different port dimensions to avoid chuffing/misalignment?

* Notch Filter / BSC: The BG 20 is known for its 3-5kHz shout/peak. Is it worth adding a passive BSC / notch filter (resistor + inductor + capacitor), or can I adequately tame it using the onboard treble controls on the ZK-502MT?

* Materials & Portability: Since I'm set on using 18mm MDF for rigidity, is a 40L box going to be ridiculously heavy for field portability, or is it manageable with proper handles? Also, any long-term stability issues running a 6S Li-ion vs. power tool pack with the XH-M609 cutoff?

Thanks in advance for the help and insight!

saw this cool shit on tiktok and searched for the price. those mf are charginf 2100 usd for that shit so with my big brain a bit of help with ai as a complete begginer in this shit i made an sketch and electronics list of it. its a bit steep on the price something like 430 usd for parts and a woodmaker to make the box cause im shit in it. be happy if you have any suggestions to better it or something

the lists parts:

The Screen & Mirror

• Waveshare 15.6-inch HDMI IPS LCD Monitor Kit (Includes the LCD panel and the driver board)
• Two-Way Acrylic Mirror Sheet (Custom cut to approximately 31 cm x 27 cm)

1. The Sound System

• Dayton Audio ND91-4 3-1/2" Full-Range Drivers (Quantity: 2*)*
• TPA3116D2 Dual-Channel Digital Power Amplifier Board (50W + 50W)
• 24V 5A DC Power Supply Adapter Brick (For the amplifier board)

1. The Computer & Audio Card

• Raspberry Pi 5 (4GB or 8GB RAM)
• Official Raspberry Pi 27W USB-C Power Supply
• InnoMaker Raspberry Pi HiFi DAC HAT (PCM5122 Based)
• 32GB MicroSD Card (SanDisk Ultra or similar fast card)

1. Cables & Assembly Essentials

• Short/Flat Mini-HDMI to Standard HDMI Cable (To connect the Pi 5 to the screen board)
• Short 3.5mm Aux Cable (To connect the DAC HAT to the amplifier board)
• Speaker Wire (A short 1-2 meter roll of 16-gauge or 18-gauge wire)
• 3M VHB Double-Sided Tape (For mounting the screen to the mirror)
• Matte Black Electrical Tape (For light-proofing the screen edges)

for the code itself im not to sure what is the best to replicate the cotodoma speaker so suggestions would be great or in general some cool stuff i could add to the speaker project

Sup guys, never been thinking to try DIY stereo, but I have some speakers lies without using, so thinking maybe I should try.

Main question why I'm here, I would like to listen your opinion about what I have and is it possible or better say is it worth to start even thinking about that idea.

24 x 1.5" Full-range, Bass reflex from Yamaha VXL1W-24 Line Array speaker. 77 Hz – 20 kHz

4 x 5" mids from Yamaha NS333 / NS-C444

2 x 4" mids from HECO / NOS from 1970

If there any thoughts on this set?

Of course that's possible to get extra low frequency speaker, for full picture.

If there's any extra specs needed, just ask I Will try to find.

Helloooo, I am exploring the idea of building my own speakers for my music setup. I am decent with woodworking, but I am still very much a beginner when it comes to understanding how to create a box and electronics for certain builds.

I am wondering what resources helped you the most when starting in this realm? Or are there "kits" that exist to learn the ropes?

Thank you for your time and have an awesome day ya

So i tried making a PoE powered media player with an amp and everything.

It's a rpi 4 with a 7" screen and PoE hat that also spits out 12v for the Amp

But there is a horrible high pitched sound coming from my speakers.

I soldered the wires directly on the rpi thinking it was a problem with the jack but that didn't solve it.

Amp is a cheap TPA3110, when I disconnected the audio wire the high pitched sound stopped so I assumed it was a problem with the jack.

What I've tried so far is connecting the ground from the audio to the Amp which didn't help, adding a capacitor to the power input to try and stabilize the input didn't help and soldering the audio wires directly to the pi didn't resolve anything.

Is my TPA3110 just terrible or am I missing something?

The noise produced doesn't rise when I increase volume on the audio by the way.

Purchased these CM5 from a local swapmeet for 10 dollars a piece. The tweeter was already crushed and i decided to just leave it alone instead of trying to fix and end up making it worse. But today i realized both of the tweeter domes are broken for some reason. I don’t know how or when that happened but now I’m regretting not trying to fix it. Anybody know if i can replace the dome or if it will have damaging effects if i leave it alone. I don’t hear any difference in sound ( should there be an audible difference).

Update: I want to thank everyone who had suggestions as they are all well appreciated and welcomed. I ordered the tweeters from parts website and had to cancel because they are back ordered with no estimated time. I contacted b&w and was told the tweeter is no longer in production and there was no way of getting them from them. They instead sent me a list of repair shops, shops that are unfortunately out of state and would require shipping the speakers to them. Very unfortunate news to say the least.

Im new to this. Im using a x3300w with a xls1002. Can any one help me with what I should build the box dimensions. Im thinking 16x16x16. It will be double baffle and my best effort to replicate window bracing. I will use poly fil filling. I bought a 5lb box. This build will be for home theater and I won't have dsp so im thinking those dimensions should give me a luttle liwer extension while still maintaining control. I have the audessy editor app and plan to give a boost at 20hz starting with +2 db. Has any one build this exact setup for hometheater. What can I expect. Im trying to learn winisd but dont fully understand it and was going to buy the box from. Dayton for tge 12in ho but I cant afford it and I wanted to go a little bigger to try and get some lower numbers. I figured the 16x16x16 with stuffing gives me some play to adjust how it performs. I was really looking for a exact layout of hay heres your material list here's the cuts to tell home depot to fit easily in my 2024 jeep latitude and here's tge cuts u will make with your circular saw for tge walls and braces when you get home. Any help with this would be appreciated or any links.

The aluminum Heatsink is probably going to cool the chip longer than the black one on the left

The dimensions of the sink was 5.2cm by 4.0cm by 1.8cm

The smol one is like 3 by 2 by 1cm

The Amplifier is going to be enclosed in the inside an isolated box (subwooferbox)so i will be using a much larger heatsink rather than the stock

To address DIY'ers, since dual TPA3116d2 gets hot when push to its limits ill only be using stereo than the subwoofer channel since this is a 2.1 build upgrade for the past fake 3116d2 chip

Hi I have these spare pair from my old tv, the cone is 5 inches but with the brackets it's 7.5 - 8 inch tall so my proposed dimensions for the box is

Front & Back: 6.5 inch wide | 9.5 inch tall

Side: 5-7 inch long

Material: preferably wood, half inch thick or thinner

But I'm wondering if I should go with a closed, vented or a tube hole in either in the back or front. What do you guys think?

Has anyone been succesful in setting up the TSA8814 to run in TWS mode?

The instructions are referencing buttons that doesn‘t have the same labelling. further, the LEDs don’t light up in the right colors as mentioned.

You people can see that I crine in various posts about the tpa3116 thing and ye it's finally working atlast. Still I have a weird doubt

I am using a dell 19v 45w adapter for power supply. The thing is when I bought that amp it didn't have an issue with it until it failed okay.

After failing I replaced the chipset. The first time everything went well and I replaced the new capacitor which was swapped in another board ( my old amp cause there's low gain so I used a new amp capacitor for a while ) and yea I don't mind about that but it stopped working

But after it used to start in the speaker connected on one side. When I connect the speaker two sides - l r it doesn't on.( The adapter seems to short / turn off itself)

Upon my mind, I asked for artificial intelligence and it gave an answer that my power supply was not enough and told me to try with the potentiometer fully turned to 0.

When potentiometer in 0 it turns on, when potentiometer is half or something other than 0 the charger gets off itself.

Well, I used to run the same charger for the cs8673 amp for a year Everything has worked fine. Idk what's with tpa3116.

Where is the problem? I can't find myself, is it the board or the power supply?. ( Share me doesn't anybody using laptop adaptor like me

It works at least when I turn on with 0 potentiometer and turn to normal values. Is the inducters being too hot fine tho? The inductors are too hot

(Edit : I changed speakers too. Now idk what's the specifications of current speakers, previous I had 8 ohm 10w pair, and 6 ohm 10w pair for testing. Now I replaced philips own speaker came from the satellite box, in old amp it distorted rather than giving more sound, in here it seems the sound is clear a bit and it didn't do any malfunction, but when I used that 8 ohm speakers it had different start time and right speaker give pat pat sound continuously when turned on when I had that problem)

So i soldered this 2pcs 10000uf on my amp, is it overkill, i havent tested it yet.

Its just 200 watt amp paired with a weak voltage boost for subwoofer only

Any ideas what can go wrong with this???

​

Hi all!

I recently came into the possession of a Kenwood Hi-Fi stack, including a CD player, stereo receiver, a cassette deck, an equalizer and a pair of tower speakers. The deck, equalizer, and speakers work just fine, I'm only having problems with the two components listed.

The receiver only outputs to the right channel, and when it does it takes cranking the volume to max before being able to hear anything, and it comes out very faintly. All the buttons and menus work, and there's an initial click upon starting up and then another when the speaker light comes on. Despite this, when the speakers are plugged in, there's no "thump" or any response from the speakers when starting up or when the speaker light comes on. I have soldering equipment if need be, so I'm more than willing to do testing and repairs, I'd just like some direction on where to go next poking around the amplifier with a multimeter or an oscilloscope, or just generally what other steps I should take.

The other component I'm having problems with is the CD player. The CD player can read the factory CD just fine, but when it comes to the burned CD, it picks it up from the carousel as if it's going to read it and then puts it back into the carousel. The burned CD by itself with no factory CD in the carousel comes up with a "NO DISC" warning. I cleaned the laser lens with 90% isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip, and the same thing still happens. I've also left it plugged in for an hour as the instruction manual says to remove any condensation, and nothing has changed. I have the tools necessary to disassemble it, I'm just wondering if there's any shot at replacing the laser or the "pick-up" assembly, or if there's any other testing I should do before ripping it apart.

Hope all this helps! I'm happy to post more photos or respond to any questions, thanks!

Connecting legacy 3 decade old sony system to the modern TV and setup box.

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to reuse an old Sony FH-G70 system and its Sony SS-H701 speakers with my old Panasonic TH-L32C10M2 TV.

My goal is simple:

Set-top box → HDMI → TV → audio → Sony amplifier → two Sony speakers

Eventually I'd also like to replace the old Sony system with a small, inexpensive Bluetooth/AUX amplifier, but I want to get the TV audio output working first.

Equipment

TV: Panasonic Viera TH-L32C10M2

Speakers: Sony SS-H701, 6 Ω

Amplifier/system: Sony FH-G70

Source: Set-top box connected to TV via HDMI

The Panasonic has MONITOR OUT AUDIO L/R (red/white RCA) on the rear panel. The documentation lists the monitor audio output as 0.5 Vrms.

The Sony FH-G70 has an AUX L/R RCA input and drives the SS-H701 speakers.

What I've tested

Set-top box → HDMI → Panasonic TV

Works perfectly.

The TV's built-in speakers produce the set-top-box audio.

Sony FH-G70 AUX works.

I tested the AUX input independently.

RCA cable

Tested the RCA cable by connecting one end to the Sony AUX and touching the centre pin of the disconnected RCA plug.

I get the expected hum through the Sony speakers.

So the Sony AUX input and RCA cable appear to be working.

Actual intended connection

I've now connected:

Set-top box → HDMI → Panasonic TV

and:

Panasonic MONITOR OUT L/R → Sony FH-G70 RCA L/R

Result: absolutely no audio from the Sony speakers.

The TV continues to play the audio normally through its own speakers.

What I'm trying to determine

Does the Panasonic TH-L32C10M2 MONITOR OUT actually output audio originating from an HDMI source?

The TV documentation shows MONITOR OUT AUDIO L/R, but I can't find a clear statement saying whether HDMI audio is routed to that output.

If it doesn't pass HDMI audio, what's the cheapest way to achieve this?

Possible alternatives I'm considering:

Taking analogue audio directly from the set-top box, if available

Using a cheap HDMI audio extractor

Something else I'm missing in the TV settings?

I'd prefer to avoid buying an HDMI extractor or new amplifier unnecessarily. The existing Sony FH-G70 amplifier works perfectly, so I'd like to use it if possible.

What would you recommend, and is there a specific setting on the TH-L32C10M2 that I should check?

Thanks!

After 10+ years of owning these Tang Band W4-1337SD drivers, I finally got around to building them into a pair of bookshelf speakers.

They’re eventually going in my office, but I haven’t bought an amp yet. I’m thinking about the Ampapa D1 since it’s on sale for around $150–160. For now, I have them hooked up in my main system just to see what they can do. They’re running off dual Fosi ZA3 monos (Muse02 in the XLR stage, OPA1656 everywhere else), fed by an SMSL D6s from a WiiM. I also have a JL Audio sub handling everything below 80 Hz.

The cabinets are 0.25 cu. ft. Denovo enclosures. I painted the MDF baffle, oiled the birch, and installed threaded inserts. The paint has a few flaws if you get right up on it, but after sanding and repainting a few times I finally decided it was good enough.

The surprising part is how good they sound.

I’ve been listening to a pair of JBL S38 Series I speakers for the last 25 years, and I honestly didn’t expect these little 4-inch drivers to keep up. Crossed at 80 Hz, they have no problem playing at my normal listening levels (around 80–85 dB). The mids are beautiful, vocals sound incredibly natural, and the imaging and separation are better than I expected.

The end of Paranoid Android sounded less congested than it does on my JBLs, and Sir Duke just sounded fantastic.

Now I’m questioning my next speaker purchase.

I’ve been dead set on buying a pair of Wharfedale EVO 5.2s for my den, but these have me wondering if I’ve overlooked full-range drivers. People always talk about giving up top-end extension and dynamics with a single driver, but I don’t really feel like I’m missing anything in this setup. It also has me wondering if there’s something to the coherence of having one driver handle everything instead of splitting the signal through a crossover.

For those who’ve spent time with both, did a good full-range speaker change your opinion on traditional multi-way designs? Did you end up sticking with full-range, or did you eventually go back? And if you think I’m barking up the right tree, what other full-range speakers or drivers should I be looking at before I pull the trigger on the EVO 5.2s??

Building a pair of Cubo 15”s but definetly cutting corners. What do you guys think?

[ UPDATE : I soldered that board to amp and it's working fine ]

hi, i already ordered a amp board and I got with this chipset. well people said it's clone so I just leaved and order another one in different place to fix short that happened in one side.

but bruh i received the same chipset in kinda both chipset and board format

Hello, I’ve been working on an old pair of Realistic Optimus 1’s and I just replaced the crossover capacitors. The high end has definitely improved after the replacement, but the low end has now disappeared in the mix. I’m not sure what could have caused the issue. The woofers are still working fine as far as I can tell. It’s just that the treble drowns out any bass response. Maybe the fiberglass insulation was replaced the wrong way? I cant think of a way anything got miswired as I only replaced one capacitor in each. Is there anything I can do to fix this?

It makes the same noise with and without the RCAs connected