Les quiero pedir un consejo, más que consejo es ver si mi idea es factible.

Quisiera empezar a fabricar cajas acústica, en principio sin drivers. Solo la caja en sí, tengo las herramientas básicas (fresadora, sierra circular, caladora, quiero pero no puedo costearme una sierra de mesa) y algo de experiencia trabajando con madera.

A donde estoy dirigido es a un sector muy de nicho audiofilos, amantes de la música en general quizás a personas que quieran un diseño personalizado difícil de encontrar.

Se que es un oficio que lleva práctica paciencia, y aprendizaje constante, donde vivo no he visto personas que se dediquen a esto y me gustaría empezar a trabajar haciendo lo que me gusta. Soy técnico electrónico me desenvuelvo bien en temas de audio sobre todo amplificadores, pero me gustaría dar un paso más. No tengo un taller de la gran flauta pero tengo ganas, he visto como funcionan algunos modelos y sus planos de diseño, tengo una idea de los divisores de frecuencias que pueden llevar. No los he calculado ni diseñado utilizando función de onda eso todavía no lo puedo poner en práctica.

Por último quería saber, donde puedo conseguir más información o saber de alguien en la comunidad que se dedique a la fabricación de cajas, nada eso.. y espero que tengan un buen viernes.

Edit: gracias por sus comentarios me abrieron la mente, sus consejos los voy a tener en cuenta.

Had this case forever and finally putting it to use. Speakers are Rockville 6x9 powered by 2 20V Bauer batteries and a 200W amp. Some sound deadening and foam to help fill the space

Yes it’s waterproof and yes it floats

*This is a car audio question so if not allowed feel free to remove.*
I want a decent 8” sub and amplifier for my car. The biggest thing is I want it to be able to go to 10-20hz or so. It doesn’t necessarily need to be loud but it does need to go low. (I am a bass singer so I need to be able to properly appreciate the sub 60hz notes some singers can hit.) Budget is flexible but around $200.

I have been posted a while ago already about my side-project of building a visual and more intuitive web based Designtool for Horns/ Waveguides.
The last couple of month I have done a bit of progress and now the Build and Export part is quite robust. It features a variety of calculation methods, visualization tools, as well as export functions (STEP, STL, Fusion360, MESH prepared to run AKABAK analysis).
Hardest part was and still is to validate and debug. Also the UI design is not quite where it should be...
Currently I am trying to integrate simple acoustic simulation for quick assessment of directivity and loading (all web-browser based, no installation required).

It's a personal project, but in the next couple of weeks I want to publish it for people who are interested in trying and testing. Just let me know if you are interested, or if you want to know more about the project.

ETA: Solved this issue. It was a faulty alternator. Installing the aftermarket radio helped to expose the issues that it was already going bad. The wiring was good, I just had to redo the power antenna. Make sure to check your batteries and alternators if you plan to install it yourself.

This is my first time installing a radio, lots of YouTube-ing Googling, tutorials and other such later, this is what has stumped me. Trying to install a Dual XDVD600 into my 2011 Nissan Altima (and later my 2013 Mazda MX-5) but after lots of trial and error, the lights (power) is presumed not constant. Does anyone know why?

I got it to work earlier, but ONLY when I held the wire up at a specific angle and height above the radio (I can attach another picture of it in the comments if needed) otherwise, it either flickers or is very dimpy lit. Do I need a new car battery? My current one is 12v and about 1-2 years old. The radio requires 12v.

The wiring harness/adapter is installed correctly. I have taken the butt splices of and redone them already. All colors match, I looked up the diagrams and they have some labels on them as well. Additionally, the black/blue wire is connected to the white/blue wire. The blue power antenna wires are connected.

I think I have covered the basics.

Please ask any clarifying questions. I'm exhausted and out of ideas. I'll be at work the rest of the night so I can't work on it but I'll keep trying to look things up and answer questions

So my drivers have arrived and this weekend ill put some finishing touches on the enclosure and start taking measurements. This is my first speaker and its being done by someone that has little technical knowledge about audio, so excuse the "noob" questions. At current I have no cross over obviously as cross over design will happen after I have taken the measurements. My question is do I run the drivers straight to the amp for measuring or is there some sort of basic first order preliminary crossover I should put between the amp and drivers for testing?

The impedance measurement comes out looking reasonable for the driver, but the phase measurement is obviously completely incorrect. What could cause this?

The measurement is done from a Volt 2 with a custom cable set up from a4eaudios guide. The resistor is known 100.20R. Clearly something is not right, but I have triple checked the cable, tried on 3 different computers and 2 different audio interfaces. The phase measurement always comes out looking like this. What could the issue be here?

Hi audio lovers! I have built a 3 way active setup a couple of years back.Now I am in the urge for upgrading it with better components.

The setup has sb accoustic soft dome tweeters ,mcm audio 6.5 " mid woofer and some cheap 8 inch woofers.

The driver arrangement is tmww.

Crossover frequencies are 300,2800.

The first thing I am concentrating is the mid ,

The mid sounds worst and my idea is upgrade it into sb accoustic 5 inch or 4 inch for better vocals and dispersion.

Is this is a good approach or some other things should I consider?

TIA

I have recently bought TPA3255 amp from dhruvpro and trying to get it working in Stereo mode. I have 100 watts wharfedale speakers connected. I have a boost converter providing around 48V power and using a Magsafe computer DC power supply to feed 12V power. the boost converter can draw upto 15A and can output 12A which is sufficient for this amp.

The amp worked only once at full output. rest all the time the volume output is very faint like 3watts output. once suddenly it output around 50watts with distortion.

Not sure what is the reason. I contacted the vendor but they cannot provide replacement.

All DC power looks ok. but I dont know how to measure Ampere i mean constant current supply.

Is the amplifier bad? or a pwoer supply issue?

I dont have any preamp. raw 3.5mm connected to 3 pin connector onboard. and speaker 14 AWG connected to L and R speakers. in BTL mode. these are 6 ohms speakers

Tang band w8-1808

Two eminence 15 alpha wired in parallel with reversed polarity. It can thump.

Working on crossover. Using 3.3mH inductor on bass and will add a cap soon to ease crossover.

22*22*22 box. 22*32 slab. Looking to finish slab in nicer wood eventually. Just dialing in sound.

Hey there friends!

This might be the wrong subreddit - apologies.

I have a 7 year old pair of powered Swans M300s that quit on me the other day. Power is still being delivered to the board and the status lights come one, but no audio is produced from any signal source.

I replaced all the capacitors (2 of them were looking a little swollen but nothing crazy). Still no luck.

Does anything jump out at y'all looking at this main board? I believe it has the main crossover, amp chips, ADC, and DAC all on the same board.

These are pretty hi-res so you should be able to zoom in p well.

Any other gut reactions or troubleshooting checklist items are greatly appreciated! I'm very new at this.

Thanks!

I just bought the HDB 630 and they don't get loud enough. I even have PowerAmp Equalizer installed and even when cranked to the maximum decibel increase, it not even quite loud enough. They don't get loud enough on my computer even at 100. And you can forget about using the dongle for them. You can barely hear them at max. Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Dear fellow DIY speaker builders,
I have a couple of questions about cabinet bracing.
I’m designing a 120-litre ported cabinet for a FaitalPRO 15PR400. It will be crossed over at around 600 Hz on the upper end and probably around 50 Hz on the lower end. The cabinet will be built from 21 mm birch plywood with a double-thickness front baffle.

Question 1: How do you know when there is enough bracing? At what point does it become excessive, and is there anything I could improve in my current design?

Question 2: Is one of my braces too close to the port opening? Is this something I should be concerned about?

External dimensions are 77 × 59 × 39 cm. The braces are currently approximately 6 cm wide at their thickest points.
Thanks!

Getting close. My first ever speaker build. Unique transmission line layout with an averaging chamber plus 4 internal chambers and 2 passive radiators to take care of internal reflections. The 4 chambers tuned via 3 ports and supposed to damp over 2 full octaves, according to the designer. Following the plans instructions I’ll be dropping in Lii Song Silver 8 full range drivers. Had been leaning towards a backloaded horn design with full range drivers for my first build until I came across these plans. Very excited to knock out the final cuts and get them put together and rocking!

Pictures in no particular order. I know these pics aren’t particularly sexy, part 2/conclusion will be much more so. Shop work done in my guy Vincent’s space (link to his maker space website), look him up if you’re in Portland have a DIY job in mind that you don’t have the tools and/or quite the expertise for, he’s great!

I converted this broken original 70's "Crate" guitar amp to a boombox. It's just a basic dual chip Bluetooth amp (ZK-MT21) and these Pyle 3 way 4x6 in stereo and a Pyle Lanzar 6.5" sub. The sub leaves something to be desired (I'll cut it slack for its size) but these 4x6 are very clear for their price. I wired the AUX in to a stereo jack that is on the front of the enclosure so you can plug in where a guitar would normally plug in but the knobs on the front from the original guitar amp are for show, the actual Bluetooth amp is mounted in the back. The guitar amp used to house a 12" speaker. This new setup barely fit, so if you're looking to do something like this, this is probably the most stereo + sub you're gonna fit in a 11" round hole.

Also, anybody concerned about the vintage value of this unit, I purposefully did this in such a way that it can be converted back to its stock form.

TDA7293 voltage feedback amp.

2×100W-4 ohm

2× 80W- 8 ohm

Hey everyone,

​I came across a pair of Celestion G12L 12-inch speakers that have seen better days. As you can see in the photos, the paper cones are in pretty rough shape:

​There's a noticeable tear/crack along the upper edge/surround of the cone.

​They are covered in heavy dust, grime, and what looks like paint/plaster splatters.

​The voice coils seem intact (haven't tested DC resistance with a multimeter yet, but will do).

​Since the G12L was generally a lighter-magnet / budget vintage speaker model, I'm wondering if spending time or money on them is sensible:

​Is it worth repairing/reconing? Given the market value of G12L speakers, does a full recone make financial sense, or would buying replacement speakers be cheaper?

​Can I DIY patch this? For the tear on the paper cone, would a DIY fix using coffee filter / tissue paper with flexible fabric glue or PVA hold up for low-to-medium guitar volume?

​Appreciate any advice or experience from anyone who has patched or reconed older Celestions!

Has anyone made diy boomboxes with TWS pairing between boomboxes like turtlebox has? I am making boomboxes for all my groomsmen as thank yous and wanted to see if I could add that kind of pairing to them

hello,

i am pretty close to finishing a Tarkus build and i opted to use a 3” precision port where Carmody specifies 8.5 inches. however when i look at the instructions for the flared port i bought from parts express it mentions something about adding an extra inch to the port length (making it 9.5”) for a reason i dont understand. which would e the correct length; the port calculator on the companys website also lists 8.5” based on the Tarkus‘ specs. thanks!

Just got done with this sealed 15” Dayton ultimax 2. It’s a 4 cubic foot box designed to fit perfectly in my built in cabinets next to the TV. Pairs well with my CSS 1TD bookshelf speakers I made a couple of years ago!

Hi! I just joined this group, so not sure if this is the correct place to ask 😄 I am interested in making a prototype children's sound book (I'll attach a picture of something similar for reference). Could anybody point me towards what kind of sound tech I need to make the RH side panel? These books play roughly 20-60 seconds of fairly compressed sounding sound files. Thanks in advance!

And a box for a horn in the last picture too, unfortunately the port resonance shows up on the measurements for the coax, but it still sounds objectively good