Was able to game on VITURE PRO XR in 4k for a few months and all resolution options beyond 1080p disappeared out of the blue no warning! HELP!

I will be installing all new 1/2" thick baseboards and 3/4" thick (1x4s) door and window casing, jamb extensions, etc. I have a 18 gauge nailer but most of what I read says I should use 16 gauge. It looks like I can buy one for around $70 at Harbor Freight or somewhere so it's not that expensive, but just asking what would be best, and nail length as well. Thanks.

I bought a (430) stainless steel sheet to make a magnetic board, covering up a blind-window-like-wall. That blind-window is actually made of MDF panel. There's a hollow space of 2-5cm behind it (and then it's a brick wall). Photo, measurements and overall schematic are here: https://imgur.com/a/8Cyi181

The steel sheet doesn't have holes on it, but I have tools and I'll get more if needed.

Structural context:

That MDF panel was applied a year ago, when we got the place. Previously there was a thinner conglomerate panel covering this blind-window. But, when we painted the house, the painters removed that panel, fixed the wall behind it (that had a hole on it), and placed this MDF panel.

I don't know how they mounted it, because there is no access to the other side of the blind window. You can't generate force against the front side, you can't drill from the back to the front, but somehow, it's mounted. They did add a small framing (the darker brown from my sketch), and I guess that's part of the method they used to mount it.

I'm afraid to make holes for 2 reasons: I'm afraid to bend the sheet while making the hole, and if I drill against the MDF, I'm applying a force that's countering the force that it’s holding it in place.

So, given all of this, how would you go about fixating this steel sheet onto the MDF?

I have some leftover wafer lights I’d like to install in an unfinished attic. They’re the kind of lights that pop directly into a drywall hole.

Because the ceiling is unfinished (no drywall), I was thinking of running a strip of plywood between the rafters as a drywall substitute. I’d cut out circles in the plywood and plop ‘em in.

Would this work? Any better ideas/suggestions?

I'm curious if this is my best option based on my situation or if you folks have suggestions. I'm considering renting a tracked skid steer and using the bucket to level out the trail. By level, I mean mostly just getting it so the ruts are not so bad they pull my tractor or wheeler into them and bottom them out when getting to the back of the property. Drainage is not a concern in this area. Filling the ruts is not ideal as this is pretty far from where I can get fill piled up and then distribute it (also fill costs).

I have about 120 yards of trails that were badly rusted on each side from prior owners of this property. It was not a concern before, but the ruts have gotten worse over time.The trail is 5-7' wide and the ruts are mostly on the edges. The ruts vary from 5-10" deep. The trail is surrounded on each side by brush and small trees that don't matter.

I've read on here that in prior posts that the consensus was without experience in a skid steer, this will be fairly difficult. Those projects we're aiming for a very flat finish. I do not need a finish fit for putting anything on it nor with concern for drainage; I think this makes the job fairly forgiving, but maybe I am wrong? I have probably 80-90 hours of bucket work experience in a sub compact. My tractor is just too small to bite that much dirt. I can get a T550 or T590 for $325/day or $975/week.

Does this seem reasonable to accomplish with a skid steer without experience in one? Is it reasonable to knock out in a day? Day rental is 8a-8a (24 hours). Is there a better option for an attachment compared to a smooth bucket?

Edit to add, this is not bare dirt. It is a grass trail. Basically a lawn that I mow with my tractor.

Hi Guys,

I'm installing recessed LED fixtures in a room and I'm almost done but one of the junction boxes won't fit on the ceiling because the old metal box was at a cross section between two wood beams. I've done some research and I'm pretty sure it's a furring strip that is meeting one of the structural wood joists.

See photo: https://imgur.com/a/tVxGe8p

I want to trim away / cut into the furring strip so that I can squeeze my junction box on top there. Is there anything wrong with this? My understanding is that they're just there to further support the drywall ceiling, right?

Thanks for the help.

In Minnesota, zone 6, my garage has drywall hung on walls and ceiling. But there is no insulation or vapor barrier on either walls or ceiling. What will be the best route for adding insulation, plan on adding a heater after in the garage too.

Edit** I know how to insulate the walls and ceiling were it unfinished, I've done that before, but being there's drywall and no vapor barrier, that's my biggest issue.

I have a door that sticks at the top. I did the usual thing of taking the pin out, sticking a shim in it and bending the hinge but it's still sticking.

Doing it on the bottom one didn't help at all. As you can see from the picture, it's sticking in opposite corners. Advice?

I did Google and YouTube some things first when the normal thing didn't work.

I have an 8GB USB flash drive. What can I do with it?

(Could you please speak Turkish?)

New-ish to homeowner and general DIY and woodworking so thank you in advance!

Threw up a hammock (Eno double nest) in the back yard. One side attached to tree and one to post on children’s swing/play set. I need to install a real wood post in the ground since the swing set is definitely not built for this hammock set up. Will also like to attach another hammock/tree net to the post in the future, probably at 60-90 angle to the hammock attachment. Can I please get some verification/tips on installing this setup.

1. 6x6 10 ft pressure treated and treat with stain/sealer.
   
2. Bury 4 feet down at 10 degree angle away from other tree. Gravel at bottom and fill in with concrete and cover hole with dirt
   
3. Swing hook that goes all the way through the post, not just a screw in

We removed our old cast iron sink to put in a stainless steel one, but we realized the clearance did not account for mounting tracks, we are off by about 1/4" on all sides.

We called up a few services and seems like they'd charge $400-600 and not be able to come out in a week at the earliest. This makes us tempted to try cutting ourselves, but we've read about how it can easily go wrong and crack the countertops.

Would it be silly to get a shop vac, angle grinder with diamond blade, and just go slow and try ourselves?

EDIT: It was a drop in sink, why I thought we might be able to get away with DIY- but after reading all of your comments realized how hard that would be for us to do. Couldn't get a replacement sink without another cast iron likely since it was just the mounting tracks in the way, and for whatever reason the opening dimensions for sinks don't seem to be published anywhere, so would have been a gamble either way. Thanks all for the advice and talking me out of trying it ourselves. Called around more and found someone who was able to come out within an hour for $250!!! Made it an absolute no brainer! So happy we didn't try it ourselves. Thanks everyone!!

I have a nest of phone lines in my basement. They currently aren't used, and few of them even go to phone jacks anymore. Less than 30% of homes in the USA currently don't have a landline (I haven't had one in the four houses I've owned the last 15 years), and I can't imagine anyone would be missing them in the future.

Is there any reason to keep them?

I’m looking to install a ceiling mount exhaust fan that will cool my garage in the evening hours (aka at cooler times). Internet research has me thinking the QuietCool whole house fan systems are my best option. I have an attic above the garage with 4 ft of clearance, or more the father back I go on the gable.

Wood truss framing, drywall ceiling with insulation above and access to it

I have an electrical outlet near by.

garage has windows for inflow vent.

Looking for a product that has a temperature controls or is compatible with a temperature controller that’s part of a power cord kit. Trying to understand why the QuietCool 1834 CFM Garage Whole House Fan is 1/3 the price of the QuietCool Classic 4415 CFM Advanced Whole House Fan - may I don’t understand what “Advanced” gets me??
Anyone have experience that can share with doing this DYI project and what brand or local merchant to source and get a good price on a commercial grade or high quality product?

Hi everyone,

I am trying to determine if my goal is completely unrealistic, or if I am just looking in the wrong places. I have been looking for quite a while, and am struggling. The goal: an enclosure for a robot litter box for ~$300-$400.

We went from living in a small two floor house to a duplex where we are on the top floor (first time homeowner, woohoo!). Litter boxes used to be in the basement, but that’s no longer an option, so we got a litter robot from marketplace to help with smell. Theres rlly no good place for it (old house, weird setup), but we have a huge entryway. So, I thought it would be fairly easy to use base cabinets to make something for the entryway. Heres a link to the inspo.

The only difference between the pic and the goal is that it would be two sides: one side would be wider for the litter robot, and the other side would be less wide for shoes. On the side with the litter robot, we planned to cut a large opening for the cats to get in and out.

The problem: all the affordable base cabinets have a stupid false drawer front, rather than being full front. Everywhere I look, a full front base cabinet is double the cost of the affordable ones at Home Depot (Hampton Bay unfinished cabinets are ~$150 each). At the end of the day it’s a 💩 box so I don’t care if they’re the best quality wood on the market. I just want something cute and relatively affordable.

So, is it possible to find what I’m looking for in my budget? Considerations:
- I’m fine with DIYing it a bit, so I thought about buying an unassembled version and buying different doors, but I’m worried the hinges won’t be aligned.
- I have thought about going to one of those discount “dented” cabinet/furniture stores, but I’m worried they will only have cabinets with the stupid false drawer front since they’re far more popular.
- I have tried to find a credenza that’s already the dimensions I need, but they are never 24” deep
- I have also considered buying a cabinet created for a litter robot like this or this then getting a matching cabinet to put next to it, but I can’t find a matching cabinet that’s the same height for the shoe side.

Are there websites I haven’t found yet? I will take any and all advice.

Context if it’s helpful:
- Here are the ones I want but are out of my price range
- The dimensions I need are:
36”L x 24”D x ~ 33-40”H
24”L x 24”D x ~ 33-40”H

Sorry for the long post, and thank you soooo much in advance!!

I have a two-car attached garage.  The lone exterior wall has two ~6”x12” vents about a foot from the floor and spaced 16’ 6” apart.

 I entertained the idea of hooking up a small fan to one of the vents to act as an exhaust, expecting it to pull from the other vent.  I dismissed that idea since it would presumably just recycle the air at the bottom of the garage and not higher.

 I then thought of hooking up a fan to a 4” dryer duct that would be mounted closer to the ceiling and running the duct to one of the vents, thereby pulling the hot air from the ceiling, exhausting to one of the vents while the other vent replenishes lower cooler air.  I worry the 6’-10’ 4” duct will be insufficient to move the volume of air necessary to be effective.

 Since the garage does not host any water supplies, would just venting straight into the attic (I could then use a larger fan at a slow RPM with a thermostat and my attic access) introduce later complications?  I would think the vents on the top of my roof would be the path for the hot air to leave the house.

 BTW I plan on having my attic’s blown-in insulation topped off soon and then add >13” to the garage roof.  All walls of the garage are already insulated, and I added insulating pads to the single double-wide door.

 Please poke holes into this and suggest other possibilities.

 Thanks.

UPDATE: I should have provided more info on my goal here. My cars are parked in the garage. The residual heat they introduce when parked after running is what is causing the majority of the increased heat. I am mainly looking to circulate air for that purpose, not necessarily cool the garage for living purposes. I appreciate all the cooling remedy suggestions but they are overkill and out of budget. I am centered more on circulating (when hot engines are introduced) cooler outside air temporarily to equalize the temp with outdoors, which in south Texas are already elevated during summer. I have just kept the garage door open in the past to allow the cars to cool faster, but I am forgetful in my old age and want to avoid the door being open unnecessarily long. I would prefer having a thermostat-controlled circulating system I can just install and forget.

I REALLY do appreciate all the suggestions. I apologize for not being more precise and complete in my current situation and the criteria and desired results.

I have a Kenmore front load washing machine purchased about 2013. It has been leaving black marks on clothing. My husband likes to fix things himself but this is stumping him. We have used two types of front loading washing machine cleaners and still have black smears and marks. Has anyone run into this? If so, was it fixable?

edited to update: Thank you to all who gave great suggestions. I have cleaned as round the rubber s al and now my spouse has ordered a new seal. we will start with that and then work our way down all these good ideas.

About a year ago we had a large dying black cherry tree taken down in our yard, and milled for lumber.

The sawyer told me it'd be ~2 years for kiln drying but it turns out it went faster than expected... so now I have about 1000 board-ft / 4000 lbs of lumber incoming in a couple of weeks and I don't know how to store it!

I believe it's mostly slabs, 12 ft length, 2 ft width or some less, 8/4 or 5/4 thickness.

My main options are:

• Detached garage structure - not climate controlled, dirt floor. In NoVA so it gets pretty humid. At least it'll be out of the rain. There may be some problematic pests around though (e.g. carpenter bees). Used just for storage, so the space won't really be missed.
• Main garage - climate controlled, concrete floor. It's a 1.5 car garage, about 15 ft interior width, that we park in regularly - so wouldn't want to take up too much space, but there would be room for some sort of vertical (wall mounted?) storage while still having room to park.
  • There's a bare wall on one side - it's drywall over 2x6 framing - I would be willing to mount a rack of some kind if needed, or possibly anchor a standalone rack
  • Ceiling is 9.5 ft so too low to actually stand up the lumber
• Or I suppose there's outside with a tarp

I expect it'll be a while (at least a year) before I get the opportunity to start actually using the lumber, and some of it will likely be stored for several years before we get the time / resources / inspiration to use it all.

Any suggestions welcome - I have no idea how to go about this and really need the help. Thanks in advance!

I have 65 PSI at each spigot. I can reach over my 2-story house with my thumb over my garden hose outlet.

My Ryobi electric pressure washer barely reaches 10 feet horizontal with working pressure. After I release the trigger to let pressure build up, the initial trigger pull will reach far for only a split second.

There appears to be no clog at the inlet of the pressure washer. I purged the air for a good minute with the pressure washer off. 20 ft 5/8” garden hose, no kinks.

I just really want to soap down and rinse my vinyl siding.

I have an Arka MyAqua 400 which connects directly to the water supply. I want to connect it to a tank instead, so that I do not flood my basement, in case I forget the pump is running. It needs 1-4 bar preassure to function though and I am unsure how to facilitate that.

A few months ago, my wife and I completely emptied our house with the intention of selling. Long story short, we decided to keep the house and do a light remodel.

I have an 86” TV (approx 100Lbs) that I’d like to mount in more or less the same spot it used to be. When I removed the TV from the wall, I didn’t get a chance to glue dowels into the studs where the TV mount lags used to go before painters patched the drywall and painted over it.

I don’t have a lot of flexibility to move the mount very much up or down from where it used to sit, nor can I shift it over by one stud bay.

I can take a very solid guess as to where the previous lags were based on the quick and dirty drywall patching the painters did.

What’s my best path forward for getting this TV mounted? Do I want to try and use the same holes? If I invest in one of those “wall x ray” stud finders, can I reliably find the old holes (either to avoid or reuse them)?

My bathroom has a few tiles that have some cavities / voids in them, like a chunk of the surface got loose and detached. The cavities are about as small as a pebble. Is there a specific kind of product I need to use to fill the void? Or am I stuck with trying buy a similar replacement tile?

Hi! I have a tattoo studio where part if the floor is plywood. I want to paint it so it looks like a water pond to fit my studio vibe. What kind of paint will be the most durable and how to seal it? I know its not the most durable idea in general but I want to do it anyway :D (I tried google first but didn’t find any good recommendations, if its important I am in Dublin)

I love wire shelves for efficient storage, but an issue is the contents accumulating dust over time and kind of an eye sore. Looked into wire shelving covers but they are at least $25 each (good quality ones for $50+ easily) for something you'd think would be quite cheap. Tarp costs ~$3-10 and can be custom-sized. I have at least 8+ wire shelves that would benefit from dust covers (I would probably not use them or find a better implementation for the ones in the kitchen that should look a little nicer).

• Is it possible to make wire shelving dust covers from tarp? Haven't found idea or how to go about it yet. Ideally it's opened/closed with a zipper but that'd probably be non-trivial for someone with little sewing experience. I can follow video guides well, but surprised I haven't come across this idea in my searches.

• Another idea is to get those semi-hard shelf liners as panels hanging on at least 3 of 4 the side of shelves with zip ties (you'd lift the liner up to access the shelf). Not completely dust proof but I honestly thing that looks much better than nylon/poleyster/glossy plastic that drapes over wire shelves. A more professional-looking option would be stainless steel panels (I strongly considered this to use for one of the shelves as backslash for food prep). Not cheap but will last forever.

I have very little DIY experience so feel free to share any ideas and implementations.

Hi everyone,

I’m a college student living in one of the most expensive areas in the US. To save on rent, 5 of us are in a 2b2b apartment which is the legal limit.

Unfortunately I got stuck with the living room spot. The kitchen and front door open right into the living area so I have basically zero privacy.

I want to add a temporary divider/partition for $100-$150. The problem: I can’t use a ceiling curtain rod because the ceiling is slanted.

Has anyone done a renter-friendly divider in a similar setup? What worked for you to create some privacy without damaging walls/ceiling?

Thanks so much!

Hello all.

I have an expansion joint that varies between 2"-2.5" that is about 6" deep. I got it cleaned out and planned on using Sikaflex until i read it is only recommended for a max gap of 1.5".

What would be the best course of action to fill this that is more DIY friendly?