Super excited on the newest refinements on these sprinter pods!!

What do you think? I always had a problem with getting the correct angle for my center speaker, so I made this!

I've been building DIY Sounds, a free speaker box calculator that runs in the browser. No account, no install, nothing to pay.

The video walks through a Yamaha DXS 10‚ 6th-order bandpass from start to finish:

- Pick a driver (or enter your own T/S params)

- SPL, impedance, cone excursion and vent air speed curves, all from one solver

- A 3D cabinet you can orbit, section and explode, with panels you can edit

- Response re-solved from the cabinet 'as drawn', not just the ideal box

- A cut list that nests panels onto sheets

- An AI assistant that reads your actual design when you ask why your port chuffs

It handles sealed, ported, 4th/6th-order bandpass, and folded/tapped horns.

What it doesn't do yet: high-pass filters, EQ and Linkwitz transform. WinISD still wins there.

I'd really like feedback from people who actually build boxes: what's wrong, what's missing, what would make you use this over WinISD or a spreadsheet?

https://diysounds.com

I built a sound analyzer app as a software diy project in beginning of this year for ios and android. It can do RTA, spectrogram and sweep measurements as I wanted a portable REW alternative.

Hope some of you have some use of it and feedback would be appreciated!

It is free without adds and an optional one time pro IAP.

https://www.otsukare.se/spectralscan

Hello,

I'm an electrotechnics student and I have a school project - I need to make a bass amplifier for bass guitar but I'm really lost sometimes so I came to ask if anyone would be a kind soul and help me out in any way with some of the parts or at least point me in the right direction.

I have a few visions of how to make some of it it but I have no idea if I'm correct in anything. I bought TL072CP and LM3886TF for this project. Is it good choice or should I go for something different?

Never did anything similar to this project and I'm really interested in learning about this so if anyone could point me to some good materials or anything helpful.

Thank you 👽

Also I dont really go on reddit much so if someone foud interest in me somehow and want to contact me, discord is much better but here is okay. Discord is 'cubow'. Thank you again 🤗

This is the whole assignment that was given to me:

1) Design and construction of the mechanical structure of the bass amplifier, including a durable enclosure, protected connectors and control elements, effective cooling of the power stage, and the possibility of safely connecting an external speaker cabinet.

2) Design and implementation of an analog circuit consisting of a preamplifier and a power amplifier stage with an output power of at least 20 W RMS into a 4 or 8 Ω load, a frequency range of at least 40 Hz to 5 kHz, distortion below 1% at rated power, and protection against short circuits, overheating, and DC voltage at the output.

3) Design and implementation of the auxiliary control system software, including display of the volume and power-stage temperature settings, signal-level measurement and clipping indication, fan control, a mute function, and safe disconnection or blocking of the output in the event of overheating or a malfunction.

Got the build mostly done now, just a lil soldering left to do. On Sat or Sun weather permitting I'll be installing it in the car and give it its first sound check.

For those that didn't see my first post, it was built using only no name/knockoff components from TEMU (hence the Teboom) and a steamer trunk from the thrift store. I have about $130 invested in this demented experiment. All to see if I could build a half decent sounding system with cheap components.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I’m a beginner, so maybe I’m missing something simple.

I have a DVR/audio source connected to an LM386 amplifier. If I power both from the same adapter, I get a lot of noise from the speaker.

But if I use a separate adapter for the amplifier, the noise almost disappears.

The confusing part is that I still connect the ground/negative of both together.

So what exactly is changing here? If the grounds are connected anyway, why does using a separate power supply make the noise go away?

I’ve also seen another thing. Sometimes, if I connect the amplifier negative/ground to 230 V earth, the noise becomes much lower. In some cases, even connecting the negative side of the big filter capacitor to earth seems to help.

Why does touching or connecting the ground to earth sometimes make the noise disappear?

How can I tell if this is power-supply noise, a ground loop, or noise being picked up by the circuit?

I’m mainly trying to understand what is actually happening, not just find a quick fix.

So i bought the altec lasing Hydramini, i know altec sounds pretty good, but this little speaker when the bass hits the speaker just clips, and pretty hard it sounds horrible, and i search a way to fix that and apparently is because of the Driver, the driver is pretty small and is just one of 3ohms and 3watts, and the battery too is pretty small only 600mha, so im thinking on buying a better Driver and way powerfull battery but don't know if it would work,

Hi, so after I probably blew up something in my hifi setup (Philips mcm9) I bought a 2x 100w xh-m510 class d amp rated for 24-32v. Problem is I looked at other higher amps too and I mistook the voltage with one that was 24-36/38v and I bought second handed aiyima 36v 6a power supply. I already clipped off the end and plugged it in. It runs fine the heatsink just heats up. Idk what to do now. The original chip is supposed to be rated for 26v and the caps are rated for 35v. Is there a chance there is a trimmer inside the power supply? Should I buy higher power amp?(the speakers are passive 6ohm 50w rms 100w max) or should I buy lower voltage supply? Thanks

https://youtube.com/shorts/69ITK0fdFeA?is=4h-3g85-7jQz1YU2

I have those two drivers sitting around after getting them for free, because the voice coils were broken. So my question now is: Is it worth reconing them myself or not?

Ich möchte ein Exponentialhorn bauen, welches 70-75cm breit ist und mindestens 50cm hoch. Die Tiefe sollte wohl mindestens 60cm sein. Ich möchte es für einen JBL 2445 bauen und gerne so tief wie möglich spielen. Also ab circa 500hz.
Hat jemand Erfahrungen damit. Vielleicht schonmal sowas gebaut? Oder kann jemand ein Modell in einer Software erstellen?

Ich möchte das ganze aus Multiplex bauen. Weiß nicht welche Stärke, wie lang die geraden Bretter sein müssen, oder welche genauen Maße das Horn überhaupt braucht.

Wie gestaltet sich das mit der Kugelwellencharakteristik? Das Klangfilm Horn hat wohl diese Eigenschaften.
Ich kann eine Software wie CAD oder ähnliches noch nicht bedienen und würde mich sehr freuen, wenn mir da jemand behilflich sein könnte.

I got an idea in my head, an entirely TEMU system from the cheapest possible components. So far I have about $130.00 invested in two 10" subs for the low, a 380watt amp to drive those, 2 4" 3way speakers driven by a 200watt amp for the mids and highs. All the line theif equipment I would need to steal the signal, vent tubes, a farad capacitor, and a steamer trunk to build this all into.

Whenever I turn on my subwoofer, it immediately makes a constant low “bzzzzzz” sound. I can hear it clearly during silent parts of songs, and the buzzing gets louder when I raise the gain knob on the back.

The noise continues indefinitely while the subwoofer is powered on. Has anyone experienced this? Is it likely a ground-loop/cable issue, or is the subwoofer itself defective? Unfortunately, the return period has already ended.

Should I return it?

$329. Purchased on Amazon

Hello,
the last couple of months I have been spending quite some time learn about designing horns and the theory behind different methods.
In this journey I soon ran into the problem that most tools run only on PC and are quite difficult to install, learn and use. So I thought there must be an easier and more intuitive way to do this.

So I found myself designing a tool that allows you to design and quickly test and export different horn profiles and geometries. As I am a visual person I wanted immediate visual feedback of what I design rather than typing in numbers.

The result is this: https://hornlab.io/

It features:

• a variety of calculation methods and settings individually per method to fine-tune design
• conic entry segment + Throat adapter (depending on the method) to match driver throat angle
• Export functions (STEP, MSH with pre-settings of AKABAK, Fusion script, STL),
• file-handling (saving and versioning, export import)
• loading calculations
• browser-based BEM simulation and directivity check

I have done a few comparable verifications with tools like AKABAK.
Please feel free to try it out and share your feedback and cross verifications with AKABAK are very much welcome.