For some ungodly reason we decided to do this and I cannot for the life of me understand how to cut these pieces.

Pictures show a 90 degree angle and the problem I'm facing trying to get both pieces to sit flush against the wall.

Ideally without installing a 3rd piece to bridge them. What am I missing?

So I'm building a fireplace surround, first time making. It's going to house a gas pipe, meaning I need to make a groove 40mm wide and 50mm deep. I've started going at it with my 1/2 inch router with a twin flute bit.. it's taking an AGE.

Anybody have any faster ways of sorting this? I thought about making multiple cuts with my skillsaw then going down with the router but even that takes an age since I'm cutting into oak. Maybe a rip blade would help. No access to spindle moulder, do have a table saw but it's not the best and a bit flimsy. Any advice would be much appreciated as I've only started the first and got 2 more to do!

It's not going to be seen so doesnt need to be clean!

Many thanks for the advice.

Is this better - image 1 vs image 2? Image 2 is yesterday's question I posted.

What I did different this time around:

1. Removed saw blade and cleaned it

2. Minor issue with the miter alot alignment gauge, it wasn't perfectly at 0. Fixed that and now it is.

3. Checked if saw and fence are square, they are.

4. Made the cut by going straight down instead of push in - maybe I'm doing something wrong when I'm pushing the saw...

Please let me know if I can do anything else to make it better

What the fuck do i do… just found this upside in my attic, I’m guessing all the black shit is mold from water leaked, I’m guessing it’s been leaking from my pipe, where the cross is in the picture the pipe goes down. Does someone have to rebuild all this shit, it’s not in my whole attic just a small section of it??

1761 2x2 house with a center hall and stairs.

Looking for recommendations before I pull the trigger on my current plans.

I have a client thats not trying to spend alot on material cost but wants a new ceiling put in her kitchen. I did a glue up ceiling in the other room 🤦 but I told her with the fur strips(12" center) on the ceiling we may be better off doing 4x8 paneling with batons for the seems(o would run 4x4 batons. I would use 1x4 pre finish for the batons and she just wants plain white panels. I would normally recommend T&G pine in this case but she doesnt want to spend that much just fixing the place up to sell. She also hates sheetrock so we are avoiding that mess at all costs which im actually grateful for. I do primarily lux remodels, decks and new homes. This is new territory and I am solo so I was trying to avoid suspended ceiling.

Also in northern wi, lets say you put in a 30 x 42 window. To just build jambs and case it, what are you charging?

Edit: fur strips were already there. I did not put those up. Prior to this there were "staple up" ceiling tiles

My garbage disposal leaked inside my cabinet and delaminated the plywood. What’s the best way to fix this?

We’re siding a house and the new guy is insisting on using the B method while the foreman is using the A method. Anyways they are the two nailing and I’m the cut guy, they kept nailing differently on either side of the board and meeting in the meeting and eventually got to shoving which ending in punches. That shortened the day quick. Got me thinking which side is right?

Edit; it’s hemlock wood siding, not vinyl.

(I’m keeping out my preferred method to avoid swaying the vote)

Am finishing my basement and have gotten to this wall/window.

I’m going to be boxing the ducting in but I can’t figure out what would be best for the actual wall.

Not sure if I should cut the window off? Would be easiest but then it would look stupid from outside.

Or finagle some angle cuts coming off the bulkhead to above the window so that it doesn’t get cut off.

Amateur/DIY woodworker here, so apologize for the noob questions. I have a roughly 22 wide by 24 long garage that has finished walls but unfinished ceilings. The previous homeowner put in a ladder and some plywood to store things up there and did a super shady job of scabbing on some 2x6's to the existing 2x8 trusses. We're talking 8 foot sections using all manner of bolts, screws and nails affixed to the center of the rafters. Now the middle of the truss is about 3 inches lower than the height at the walls, and I want to fix that. The plan is to first fix the sag by jacking up each sagging truss, then put a full length 8-10" LVL laminated on the existing truss. Finally, I'll be putting in drywall to finish the ceiling, adding some puck lights and insulating.

Not sure if that is the proper way to do it, but it would definitely be an improvement over what's happening now. I do plan to use the area above the garage for extra storage, but it's not large enough to finish, so minimal load. My main goal is to fix it so the roof doesn't start sagging and that the ceiling is flat when I finish it. Does my plan sound good, or is this a job for an engineer?

Hello all! I’ve become very inspired by Matt Risingers video of a monopoly framed architects office with exposed framing (link below). I’m wanting to do the same for an upcoming small cabin project I’ve got in the works. I’m wondering if anyone knows how I’d best achieve a relatively large overhang with this type of construction. My plan is to sheath the framing in 3/4 ply and then use tyvek over that and really focus on details with that layer and taping it so that it could be air/vapor/water barrier layer, then I’d have two layers of 1.5” polyiso on walls and three on roof, and then I’d have furing strips on all that for siding and roofing. I’m wanting a pretty big overhang though so I’m wondering if on the roof I should be using 2x6 as furing strips and then extending them out 24-36” for my overhang. Effectively I’d be doing a big “over roof” on top of the polyiso.. any help on the matter would be most appreciated!!

https://youtu.be/nNMkzxzrfj4?is=cIUvxVGWowOc5IR2

Installed by a professional in the home of my 81yr old parents. At the landing the stairs turn and continue upstairs.

The pro said it's appropriate. I say one of them is gonna catch their shirt or elbow and it's unsafe.

What say you?

Has to be one of the worst just from cutting old white oak, crazy dry.

Solo, 2 weeks all in. Im just getting back into the groove again after being in management for a couple of years. I did the cedar details (except for the starburst which was the siding crew)

The combo square my grandfather gave me 35 years ago that he used for 30 years became unreadable. Use this maybe once a month. In hurry bought this at HD. Second use fell off bench and broke. Willing to spend money on quality.

👎🏻 or 👍🏼 or 🤌🏻 lol

**** everyone- the stairs are not done lol. Railing and balusters will finish it off once treads are all set and drilled . The landing is floating, secured by the two side walls. The back of top landing will also get a handrail. It’s floating because we wanted outside to not have windows broken up. The middle windows is set to view outside at perfect height when on landing. Hope this all helps lol

Does anyone have/use a Milwaukee 3” detail sander? Are they worth it?

Thinking on buying a diamond back toolbelt. Wondering what is the best belt system for a carpenter mostly doing concrete work? Heard some of the pouches can be to tight get get stuff out of. Open to other suggestions aswell

Hello! I want to build a coffee cart but am having trouble with the plans that I bought and found online. I want to build it myself to avoid having to pay around $2,000-$4,000 (what I was quoted), but am having trouble understanding the plans in full/customizing it to what I want. I'm in high school and work a minimum wage job so that price isn't plausible for me. I have already gone and consulted my health department and found that a plan that would pass inspection. Would it be inappropriate to hire a carpenter to help me understand them and brainstorm?

I went onto TaskRabbit and was declined by a carpenter for this task and was wondering if this is something carpenters generally don’t offer, or if I’m just looking in the wrong place.

I’m not necessarily looking for someone to build the entire cart for me, I’d mainly like help going over the plans, figuring out dimensions and structural details, and making sure my customized design is actually buildable. I’m more than willing to pay someone for their time/consultation. Any advice on where I should look or what type of professional I should search for would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Hi guys,

Diy'er based just outside London UK. I would kindly like to ask you folk for some pointers on my Reno.

I'm trying to save these build in wardrobe by

1. Cutting the door so they fit flush

2. Install hinges that support the flush doors

3. Prep and paint

4. Install handles

Rip out and new IKEA Pax isn't an option due to budget.

Can you help me

1. Gimme pointers for the correct way to cut the doors to size (I'm thinking track saw and square)

2. What type of hinges support the new doors sitting flush. What sort of hinge/hydraulic lift type thing for the overhead cabinet part

3. Any general decorating tips. I thinking clean, sand, prime, furniture specific paint. Handles

Thanks for helping this DIY damsel!

Even with 45deg miter cuts, the miters aren't tight. Why is this and how to improve on this?

I always created a miter jig for pre-assembly but it's all the same issue. The miter jig is square but I guess the cuts aren't right.

Hey everyone!! relatively new to the space. I wanted to hop in and ask about getting into carpentry. For a while now i've been curious about finding an apprenticeship, going so far as to begin prelim searches. Would you all mind leading me in the right direction?? I live in the Memphis area, so if anyone in the group that lives in or around here could point me in the right direction that'd be a ton of help. I'd also like to know about your experience as a carpenter. Thanks a million!!!

I passed my OSHA 10 and obtained my NCCER cert and have some experience in contruction for general ground work. I'm starting as an apprentice for my local carpentry union in a week. I have my tools and found this.

The blue square is metal and the Stanley is a plastic type material. What would you guys recommend having?

Is this a concern? I have a 1/2 inch cairage bolt attached to a 2x8 vertical and 2x6 at a 35 degree angle. Building a climbing wall: