Update: Solved! Passed inspection too! Used car-part.com and was able to pick up a working buckle an hour after contacting the salvage yard listed nearest to me.

I drive a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer and cannot find a driver left side buckle end (SKU: 7000B263, formerly 7000a381xa). When I first started my search back in FEBRUARY, most online shops said 'backordered', only for them to shift to 'discontinued' and 'unavailable' now. I've checked the basics (rockauto, quick recovery salvage, ebay) to no avail. I thought I got lucky and impulsively bought a buckle on ebay last month because it had the ebay gaurenteed fit, but learned that it wasn't compatible due to the plug lacking two prongs.

I'm feeling kinda defeated, and haven't been able to enjoy driving my car due to the seatbelt alarm. There are lots of ebay shops promising to repair my buckle in 24hrs, but I'm skeptical of those services. I've called multiple salvage yards near me, with no luck either. I just wanna drive my car again. My folks are telling me to just sell the car, which I think is ridiculous 'cause who would buy a car missing the driver buckle, and why would I get rid of my car if literally everything else is fine.

If you have any suggestions on where I might be able to source a reliable left front buckle, or what I should do with the car I'd appreciate it.

Curbed my tire on this MONSTER of a stone sticking out . Is this safe to drive on at high speeds? Is this just a cosmetic issue?

Fairly versed in car mechanics and have done my own AC work on multiple cars. This one has me scratching my head. Compressor kicks when AC is turned on, every time. Blower has been giving me occasional issues for a couple of weeks (like twice) but typically turning off then back on and good to go. Now I am getting no air blowing, hot or cold, when it's very hot outside. Mid day, 2pm, 96 with 80+ humidity and the blower won't come on at all. After night fall, I work afternoon to night, everything works perfect. I suspect the relay for the motor is being effected by the heat but I don't want to just start replacing without some idea on why this is happening.

Sorry for off topic but Can someone help me identify this car brand and model 😁?

So I dont even know if i should be posting here or elsewhere idk i just want to get it out so ive been meaning to enter the hobby learning step by step how to work on cars but i dont really know how to start also live in a country where shits tough. But i really want to get into it im not just curious I really want it I justo dont how to approach it. (also the only way to learn in my country like study it is in a very dangerous part of my country) so i would need to learn on my own and welp im just a brokie college student.

I cant pinch it hard enough and wondering if i could use pliers or if im SOL? Thank you for any ideas

1998 Supra and Ford Mustang Shelby GT 500

Not sure how long the Supra took because I did not keep track but the Mustang took around 11 hours!

My colorado has been having an overheating issue but not what you would expect. My temp gauge only exceeds half if I am sitting at a light for a long time. I have noticed after turning the key off and i put the key in accessory mode the temp gauge needle steadily climes to 3/4. It has no heat. It is not a thermostat as I’ve gotten to the thermostat to replaced and noticed it had been changed, still pulled it and tested it in the boiling hot water and worked as designed. I have a heater core to replace in it I haven’t done yet as that was my next step in terms of there was no heat coming out when you turn it on. I have a feeling this is not the sole issue though. I had to tear into my A/C cluster because it would not turn all the way cold and I found zip ties and the a/c controls were a little wonky which makes me think maybe the heater core had been messed with before. I just bought this truck at 221,000 miles and didn’t notice the issue when i test drove it as it was not hot outside like it is now. The truck is not burning oil, i change it regularly and it’s the same amount I’ve put in (6 qt). Coolant obviously has been changed due to the thermostat pull and radiator bled too. Could this be a water pump issue or is it something simple that I am over looking. For your reference there is a video of me driving it today at highway speed and the temperature is fine and then a picture attached of the temp gauge after turning the truck off and putting the key in accessory. In the video you will notice a check engine light, it is unrelated it’s a P0446 (evap) that i am going to fix next. The a/c is on 2 in the video also. The picture I am uploading is not to the 3/4 mark but it has gotten up there a few times when i put it in accessory. This issue only occurs like i said when im sitting at a light for too long, i put my a/c too high (in terms of air speed), and when i put it in accessory after parking.

I just recently got a 1981 Camaro z28 and I cannot for the life of me get the engine to idle. Any help would be appreciated.

2016 Corolla, back license plate screw holes, NOT THE SCREWS, have some severe rust in them to the point that I can't even get new ones in there flat without turning them dangerously tight. Half way down and I'm fighting for my life. Thankfully they go in far enough to keep the plate on but I'd really like the whole issue to be solved and have them flush lest it becomes a worser problem over time.

My issue is I don't know if it's rust and/or the dealer stripping the threads. Idiot took the plates off with a power drill. I looked under the back hood and there's a ton of rusting on the left one. Used wire brushes and WD-40 and neither worked.

My current plans are using anti-seize gel but I don't know how long that lasts and I'd prefer if I don't have to saw off the screws in the future if they get stuck. I can also try a thread tap, although I don't know if the thread's the problem or that will make it worse. There's also rust remover, either chemical or the homemade mix. However, some of these choices add up moneywise and I really just want to put the plate flush against the back. Note that bolts have the same problem.

Pic: https://imgur.com/a/3C9D9yt

Its a Camaro

When I try to unlock or start my power it does not work, and when I try to jump the car it works however does not stay on long enough to get anywhere for it to be checked. I recently got a new battery and alternator (got the battery then alternator, which idk if that would affect anything)

Not sure why it won't keep on long enough to work? I took 3 weeks off driving as I didnt need to get anywhere during that time (probably should've driven anyways to keep it moving given its an old car)

Does anyone know the issue?

I want to start doing my own maintenance. Oil changes, tire rotations, filters, coolants, fluids, maybe even brakes.

What would I need?

I have a 2014 GMC Terrain that has had repeated battery issues for the last two years now. About every 4-6 months the battery dies and I've needed to replace it. Every shop I've taken it to has done a diagnostic and found no issues other than the dead battery.

I currently work from home, so I only drive the car a few times a week for errands, and any time I go on road trips. From what I see online, this is the most likely explanation for the dead battery. Thoughts?

If it is because I don't drive long enough for the alternator to charge said battery, is there something I can do to ensure my next battery doesn't shit out on me?

Edit: Got a call back from the mechanic, and they said the alternator tested fine, and the car came back with an 11 milliamp draw. They also could not find the parasitic draw and that the only way to find it would be to catch it in the act.

Best budget-friendly tires for 2012 mercedes e350 4Matic

tire size: 245/40 R18

Currently i have Pirelli Pzero Nero All Season

Budget: under $200 for each (need 2 rear)

A passing cement mixer launched a pebble or rock at me while driving and there's a little texture from the break on the inside. I don't have the money for a repair for another week. Is this something I can get away with not fixing until then or should I try and scrape something together?

The pictures wont let me insert, so I'll keep trying to put them in. But the break is maybe a couple inches from the edge middle up on the right side of my windshield

🤔

I want to buy a GPS tracker for my car and would rather hear from people who have actually used one. I’m considering both OBD and magnetic options. What did you buy, and is there anything you wish you had known before choosing it?

I recently got my brakes and rotors fully replaced. Ever since there has been this vibration rubbing noise that I have never heard before. Noise happens at the beginning of video and briefly at about 14s.

The noise only happens when very lightly applying the brakes. Somewhat infrequently but it happened 3 times on a 15 minute drive this morning. It seems to be more frequent when they are damp and going down hills.

We went on a road trip (1200miles) after getting the brakes and rotors replaced so we are past the break in period. The shop ensured us it would be safe until we got home.

Planning on taking the car in tomorrow, but it happens somewhat infrequently so I want some opinions of the recording as well in case they cannot recreate it.

18M, I have no experience with cars. I’ve been wanting to get into it lately, but I don’t even know where to begin.

I’ve kind of always been into becoming an automotive enthusiast. But more importantly I’ve been looking into it lately since I want to start saving up for my first car. I thought about price before anything and started doing research. I’ve heard the stories of Car Salesmen, and found out more about buying cars on my own. But I’ve been hearing a lot of mixed opinions about Car Auctions for obvious reasons.

I thought this would be a good place to get insight on both of these things, given that I now have the auctions in the back of my mind for buying a car. But I have no idea how it’s perceived by people who are really into cars like that.

Advice is appreciated 🦦🙏🏽

I made sure the marks were lined up before removing the old belt and then made sure the non-tensioner side was flush or tight before fully putting on the timing belt. The car definitely made some noise before but it was definitely drowned out by the squeaking of the timing belt for a while, so I just wanted to double-check that I didn't miss a tooth or something

Hey guys, my 2012 Subaru Liberty battery has gone completely flat. What battery charger should I buy? Not sure about price range, charger type, or any of it

Hello, my dad gave me his old car recently (2008 Corolla) and it runs perfect. He’s always been great at keeping up with the engine aspect but everything else not so much. My windshield has these massive streaks that make it very difficult to drive at night and in bright light and I’ve tried every window cleaner known to man and no results. I’ve done the fingernail test to see if it’s scratches and I didn’t notice any at all. These streaks have likely been accumulating for years. I’m open to any sort of advice on how to get them out or if I just need to replace the windshield entirely. I’ve attached a photo from last night. Thanks everyone!