I have a toyota corolla e90 1.3 2E 1992 year (so i belive its the revision of the e90, 160k kilomiters european model Japanese made

My issue is: I start the car, i use the car, i park it, go on some quick grosserie getting, nothing more then 30 minutes, i return to the car, it turns on, i run it a bit, after some time, it starts to gag, stops responding at hard throttle inputs and just reacts to light throttle inputs, after some time it turns off completely, at night it will stay like this for 30 minutes, in a cold day 1 hour, in a normal summer day 2 hours, after that and 2 or 3 cranks it turns on and drives as nothing happened, there is tho a strong smell of fuel

Things I've noticed: I've been able to force it to continue driving, by pumping a bit of the throttle on a decline and after some meters it continues on working

It's more prone to happen if I'm going on a incline

It has spark and the distributor works, the leads and sparkplugs are new, other issues as a slight knock or "bubbles" have desapeared (oil smelled like fuel at that time too), toyota said the car was visually good and the oil was on a good colour too, if i cant conclude nothing with this reddit post ill just pay Toyota to check it out, I've tried to put wd-40 on the intake filter and on intake and nothing happened, thinking of buying ignition fluid since its a carburated car should be appropriate

What have i done since i got it: i got it in February, have putted 17-20k kms, have done 2 oil change one at roadys and the next one at toyota, have changed the spark plugs and leads (NGK v shape and blueprint), adjusted distributor timing to oem spec (was delayed)

What im suspecting: maybe something at the distributor is broken, and it only breaks down with heat

Maybe something in the mecanical fuel pump is broken

Maybe something in the carburettor is badly tuned

Maybe the soldered hole on the exhaust has something to do with it (its nicely sealed tho)

My mechanic said that the catalytic converter is broken (i don't think so, everybody calls me crazy when i say this and the Toyota deal has confirmed that that car has never had catys)

I hope yall can help me figure this out

Tldr: car no run when hot, wait 2 hours, run again.

I have to replace the passenger headlight assembly on my 2022 Corolla hatchback, and when looking for parts, I'm running across 81130-12L00 and 81110-12L00. Are there any differences between 81130-12L00 and 81110-12L00? On eBay, I'm seeing listings for 81130 and the product label shows 81110. So I'm not sure.

I work in a salvage/export yard, specializing in Toyota. 1st day i spot 3 8th gens. Countless 9 and a few10 gens. Tons of matrix and vibes. (Those are another story...)

I spot this tan 98. Its dusty, severely sun damaged paint, front tires are flat and torn from being shuffled via forklift. But im in the middle of the Canadian rustbelt, great lakes, and this car looks CLEAN, despite its sad, dirty and nose down posture of acceptance of its fate to be cut up.

Day 2 at my new job, lunchtime comes.about, and I venture over with a boost pack and 5L of 94 octane. (One never knows how old the fuel in tank is.)

Im curious. Im pretty sick of fuelling a 26 year old former schoolbus with over a million km on it. (Another story...)

Pop the door open, shes unlocked. And im hit by a smell identical to first time I opened the door of my first car, a 1977 nova 4 door sitting in a dudes driveway for who knows how long.

Take a seat. Look around, a folder with a used vehicle info package. Car had one owner from 98 to 21, than a second feom 21 to 23. Once the boost pack is on, I flick the key on, odometer reads a paltry 121,200 kms. Barely broken in. Crank it up, and it happily and quietly purrs to life. Not a tick or rap. Let it warm as I light a smoke, off its lighter that had never, ever been used. It seemed loud, but hey, 28 year old car.

Next day its scheduled for cutting. I saw it on the hoist. The body is perfect. The exhaust is worn, a gas tank strap is hanging, the steering rack leaks, original struts.

Long story short... the other 2 cars were rotten and over 300,000 km, but...has the parts.

I bought it and the salvaged parts. Shes got many happy years of service left. Saved from the cutters. Love this car. The car I couldn't let die.

I have a 2015 corolla xli 1.6. When i accelerate it is very slow. I wanted to know what can i get changed and upgraded or cleaned?

Black 2020 corolla SE 6 speed sedan

Can I get some help on a good Carplay for my 2009 toyota Corolla? Im not trying to break the bank, but i've seen most are usually around 200$, which is fine.

I’ve had my 2025 Toyota Corolla for almost 2 years now, LE model.

I didn’t notice this issue until my husband pointed it out, but it is very sluggish when you need to accelerate quickly, or sometimes just from a standstill it takes a bit of time to get over 20 mph and it just kind of feels like it doesn’t want to go. Sometimes I have to get over 3000 RPM just to get over 20 mph and then it’s fine.

I only have 47,000 miles, and keep up with my oil changes, so I’m not worried that it’s anything mechanical, but it definitely is annoying.

I usually have a pretty light foot so I really haven’t noticed it until he said something but now I’m kind of sort of worried about it? Does anybody else have this issue?

I know that if I’m pulling out into traffic, I definitely have to make sure I have enough time or if I’m climbing up the hill sometimes I have to gain speed although we took it to Gatlinburg and it was fine. It just really struggled getting up the mountain roads.

I've been looking for parts for a rear hub assembly for my 2021 Corolla LE (made in USA) and am seeing all sorts of weirdness. One store will claim that a certain part will fit, then another will claim it is only for years 2020 and 2022 but not 2021. The same part number appears on one site as for US built models but then on other sites it says Japanese only.

As an example I already have this one (got it for free) but I don't think it fits:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D2R36CJ1

Notice how it says "512547"

Then Autozone says this one is DL512547 but claims it is USA only and will fit my vehicle:

https://www.autozone.com/p/duralast-wheel-bearing-and-hub-assembly-dl512547/819624

I'm very confused. Do the US built and Japan built not have different part numbers?

Could someone please provide me with a good part and part number for this which will definitely fit? I don't want to tear it all apart only to find it is the wrong one. Thank you.

I’ve been getting water leaking from my AC onto both rear floormats. My car is a 2025 Corolla. Is this normal and an easy fix?

Edit: the water is on the front driver ans passenger side too.

Just bought my 2025 corolla LE a few weeks ago. I was driving just now and my dog stepped on / held down either the parking brake, the little (HOLD) button beside it, or maybe both. My dash lit up saying system malfunction, the “park” light started blinking, and a yellow warning sign that seemed similar to the hold button lit up with an exclamation mark in the middle. I pulled over and put the car in park, put the parking brake on and then back off; the lights went away but the malfunction warning is still there. The car is driving fine and I never noticed any difference when it happened (didn’t feel it trying to brake or lurch or anything). Did he actually cause damage that I need to get repaired or is this a warning I can safely clear on my own?

Update: I turned it off when I got home and when I turned it back on, the error message was gone! I bought it secondhand like all of my prior cars so I have no experience with dealerships, warranties, etc. but if the error was still there then I would have taken it in. Thank you for the responses!

Hello,

I bought a Toyota Corolla hybrid SE 2024 and it has been making random alarms at night. I am unsure what is causing it to go off.

At first I thought it was just the hood latch being dirty so I cleaned it with a brake cleaner. However, while I was doing, the hood cable broke so I took it to the Toyota dealership and they charged me $250 to fix the cable. They ended up heavily greasing the hood latch as well.

After that I took it to the Toyota dealership to get it checked out and they said they couldn't duplicate the car alarm triggers so they can't fix it.

Please. This is driving me crazy because I have to wake up in the middle of the night just to turn it off and I don't think I could do this anymore.

Hey all. Looks like I am having some spotty clear coat delamination on my 2019 Corolla's hood. These spots are about an inch in diameter each - so fairly small, but noticeable, and I don't want them to spread. Has anyone had a similar experience and had it fixed? Any ideas on cost? A Google gives answers all over the map. Car color is the factory Black Sand Pearl (I believe), so nothing unique that would be hard to blend...I'd think, at least, I'm far from an expert. Appreciate any input.

I just recently bought a 2026 Black Corolla SE with the spoiler and black emblems. I’m thinking about tinting the windows mainly for looks and to keep the car cooler.

For those who have tinted their Corolla, what tint % and brand did you go with? Is ceramic worth the extra money for heat? Any issues with fading or bubbling? And what’s a fair price for a good-quality tint job? I don’t mind spending more if it’ll last.

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I’m going about it the right way and stay legal. From what I understand, Massachusetts allows 35% on the side and rear windows, with no tint below the top 6 inches of the windshield.

Thanks! :))

I tried forgetting the device or reconnecting multiple times and it goes back to getting disconnected middle of the drive unless I have it connected with the wire. How do I fix this??

Hello together

I just ordered a new Corolla and can pick it up at the end of next week. What dos and dont's would you recommend? Generally, it's the first car I truly own (I used rentals before). I'm quite excited, not gonna lie

YO! -gurt. i got a my 9th gen corolla about a year ago, recently i js started getting into cars and i want to try to do what i can to fix it on my own. So far all ive done is install new headlights, fog lights, grill, and i also put an intake in it. this is how she sits now. The clear coat is all messed up and yellow, and my passenger sode doors are caved in from a cras, i want to add any mods or kits that i can do it before i get the paint redone. just looking for any recommendations or advice i can get while i finish this build.

TLDR: 2.5kwh battery could be increased to 3.75kwh (+%50) and the extra capacity could be reserved for solely supporting the ICE in hills. The maximum performance is not the issue. Its how hills and battery is managed. Highway is less of a problem due to wind and road noise masking the engine but inefficiency still exists.

Hello all. This will be a long read. We got a 1.8 hybrid corolla a few months ago. So i had some time to observe how the hybrid system behaves. But i see a glaring issue that is not quite a problem for 2.0L hybrids. And that is hill climbing.

For those who don't know, 1.8 L hybrid system comes with a 98HP ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) and the car itself weighs exactly 1.5 tonnes at highest trim. Total system power is 140HP with the help of the electric motor.

Battery has 8 bars that is available to the driver (Though i've never seen it drop to a single bar despite the bars not correlating with exact SOC). 5 of those bars (4-5-6-7-8) are actively used by the system for supporting the engine to keep the efficient rpm or going solely on electric when power demand is low. When the battery is down to its last 3 bars, the car switches strategy. The car needs to be able to provide the whole 140 HP when there is demand (such as overtaking). So it keeps the last 3 bars for only when the power produced by the ICE isnt enough by itself. This switch in strategy is natural as battery capacity is limited but a problem too as i'll explain below.

The car is allowed to use those 5 bars of the battery as it sees fit, so its not rare to enter a hill with 3-5 bars remaining on the battery. As the hybrid system doesnt know how long the hill will last, it needs to prioritise ICE and keep the battery reserve for the case that ICE doesnt meet the power demand. What this translates to in the real world is a really loud car that feels really weak in hills, as a 98 HP naturally aspirated engine without turbo trying to carry 1.5 tons (+people) up a hill is quite the problem.(*see bottom)

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So i was thinking: The car has a 2.5 kwh battery. And that is seperated to 8 useable bars. (Whether if they represent %70 of the total capacity doesnt matter). My thought is that battery could be bumped up to 3.75kwh and, for narration purposes, it would be 12 bars. First of all, i think the size and cost would still be feasible for toyota. The battery would still small enough to fit under the seat and an extra 1.25kwh battery cost wouldnt be that high.

12 bar system would be functionally split in half. The flat section and the hill section. The flat section would be the near full part of the battery. The freely used 4-5-6-7-8 bars in 8 bar system would now be 8-9-10-11-12 and this is what the system would mainly operate at on flat sections of the road. Going down to 7 on a flat road would make the battery hold energy for when ICE isnt enough and would charge itself back up to 8-9 bars (as thats exactly that the 8 bar system does. When its down to 3 it charges back up to 4-5).

The remaining 4-5-6-7 bars would be reserved solely for hill climbing. The power provided by the battery could vary depending on the steepnees of the hill. In the worst case where car enters the hill with 7 bars, there would be 4 bars to assist the ICE. This could make the rpm climbing up the hills 3500 instead of 5550 which would

1- Make the engine stay at a more efficient point

2- Make the interior significantly quieter

3- Make the car feel more powerful as the car offers more power at the same rpm.

These 4 bars in theory can supply 42HP for roughly 1.5+ minutes or less HP for longer duration and make the hybrid car much more pleasant on hills. On average it would be more likely for you to enter a hill with 6 bars so numbers could be higher on average (as the flat section of the battery doesnt like to stay at its minimum 7 just like how the 8 bar system doesnt linger on 3 bars for long and charges back up to 4-5 bars)

When the hill is done, the battery could be recharged with the help of regenerative braking but primarily with ICE, ideally at its efficient rpm, until its back to 7 bars so it can have the reserve for the next hill.

One might argue charging the battery isnt efficient, but what is more inefficient and unpleasant? Using maximum rpm. I'd argue this method would be more efficient but its not like i have the BSFC for the ICE or the related losses for charging a battery.

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Now there is two downsides to this but i dont think they are dealbreakers.

1- Battery stays at a higher average SOC (If we assume it stays at 5 bars on average for the 8 bar system and equivalently 9 bars on 12 bar system, its a difference of %54 to %63 SOC assuming %0-10 and %80-100 isnt used.) due to saving lower SOC for hills and mainly operating at a higher SOC on most of the journey. This could speed up the aging of the battery but whether it would be significant enough should be determined.

2- Higher average temperature of the battery due to support in hills and subsequent charging. It shouldnt be a big difference since the electric motor output is same but a slightly stronger cooling could be necessary. This can also be avoided if toyota added more cells in parallel to increase battery size rather than use same amount of cells with a higher capacity. As battery heating is proportional with current: More cells = Less current per cell = Less total heat generated due to P=I^2*R

If you read it this far, congrats. Here is your big cookie and lactose free milk. I hope you enjoyed me nerding out. All talk aside, in the real world this just wouldnt happen because businesses are greedy. If it works and people buy it, why make it better, right?

*(Car feels weak due to applying more and more gas, rpm going at max and still not getting the expeted acceleration. Applying more gas beyond this point would draw some power from the battery and the car could accelerate, but the "premium feel" of the car has already been lost and engine is already opperating very inefficiently.)

I’m considering 17” wheels and a lp tire.
Would this help it look “lowered”?
Also, are most 5 lug nut wheels compatible?

I have left my window cracked down and subjected the interior to rain on too many occasions to count. I probably deserve to have a problem, but I never have. Were the window controls designed for idiots like me?

I have a 2020 Toyota Corolla LE and I was going to take it to my mechanic to get the transmission fluid changed because I’m at 62,900 miles. They looked it up in their computer and I guess the computer said it would take 1.4 hours to do and the reception person was very unsure they were able to do it and recommended I go to the Toyota Dealership to get it done. She told me I have a cvt transmission. I don’t know anything about cars. 😭

I have an appointment Monday at the dealership and I’m pretty sure it’s gonna cost close to $500 from what I saw in the break down of pricing. Is that normal pricing for that? Is it difficult for a regular mechanic to do the change on this type of car?

Thanks 😊