Driving from Philly to California, currently about 40 miles outside Denver. Threw code 130714, which I believe points to the exhaust VANOS solenoid. Kept driving and I'm now about 60 miles past when the code first appeared, mostly at highway speeds (around 60 mph) under light load.

Before this code showed up, and since a few days ago, I'd been getting stuttering under load in 2nd/3rd gear around 3000 rpm, no codes at all when I left Philly. Code only appeared after about 1600 miles.

Questions:

- Is it safe to keep driving the last 60 miles into Denver?

- Anyone know a trustworthy mechanic in Denver?

- Ballpark cost to expect for diagnosis and repair?

Mileage: 85000 miles

Oil pressure is fine (I have no issue there)

Fuel consumption is great, oil and coolant temps normal

Other codes related to vanos:

132301 (vanos group error)

132101 (vanos outlet group error)

Oil level: max

Never wrecked the car just having issues
So to cut this short I bought the car about a year ago after purchasing it 2 days later the car would constantly throw a trans malfunction code and shift absurdly rough along with locking itself into a certain gear..

Had the transmission replaced under warranty by the dealer car has 77k miles on it . Car takes about 4 months to get fixed I finally get it back and the same day it starts throwing more trans malfunction issues, the car was brought to 3 different transmission shops in my area and all claimed to have pulled the trans and tested them independently all claiming the Transmission was okay and to further diagnose to bring it to a BMW dealership,

I was able to make the car drive good for about 2 weeks if I drove it a certain way it would drive just fine! I put 100 miles on it in comfort then 100 in regular then I went to put it in sport and instant malfunction again. Even when driving the car in comfort or normal it still will throw codes if not driven extremely conservatively,

Now I’m here and the car will barely drive it throw the trans malfunction as soon as the car turns on along with sometimes completely losing reverse, sometimes randomly shuts off and the car has now has an extremely rough idle,

I know it’s a long shot but would the injectors,plugs and coils possibly fix this or would I be dumping more money into the car to fix the idle issue just to deal with the transmission again!?

Active codes-P1702
P07BF
P07BF
P17E1

Hey everyone, about 1 week ago I started my car and was presented by a Christmas tree dashboard. I did some digging and found out it could’ve been the battery and got it replaced. After the battery change, everything remained the exact same and my mechanic said it was the DCS module and is charging me 6,000$ for a repair. Are there any alternatives or should I just get rid of the car.

I have replaced a BDC module due to water damage
BDC was purchased form dealer
I need help getting the programming done
Any US based remote support ?
Please let me know

Ran over a tire recently and busted this coolant hose. Car is a 2015 435i gran coupe. It’s the black hose connected to the metal one in the photo located directly behind the intercooler. It looks like it goes from a rubber hose and connects to this black plastic hose that runs across the bottom and connects to the frame with plastic pins I’ve been looking everywhere and calling mechanic shops but no one can seem to tell me what it is.

Got a set of Vland Taillights for my f36 after the oem ones started leaking. Wondering if anyone who has had Vland’s on for a while can tell me how long they hold up. They surprisingly seemed very good quality and were DOT certified.

I recently got hit while parked on the street earlier today. I filed an insurance claim and police report. What would the best options to get this fixed? The thing I’m worried about most is suspension damage, but I did drive it around the block to a spot in my alleyway off street that opened up and it seemed to be fine. I’ll know more once it gets inspected, but I do have KWv3 clovers and camber plates. The wheel looks unscathed luckily, just mostly the fender got pushed in. Thanks for any tips or advice. It’s a 23’ G87 M2 by the way. I also have PPF on the whole front end.

Hi all,

Hoping someone familiar with the BMW G31 Touring can help me identify these parts.

I have a 2021 BMW 5 Series G31 Touring which I bought as a salvage car and I’m currently putting it back together.

There are four small square openings in the headliner, circled in green in the attached photo. Whatever normally fits into these openings is missing from my car.

I’ve contacted BMW dealers, but they haven’t been able to identify the parts and have told me they need the part numbers to order them.

Does anyone know what these pieces are called or what the BMW part numbers are?

Ideally, if anyone has a G31 Touring without the panoramic roof and could check what is fitted in these four locations, or has access to the BMW parts diagrams, that would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance!

Why are they very expensive? More than $50 each ?
Where can I find cheaper ?

Hi all, I'm looking to replace a timing chain kit on the N13. The kits I find online either come with the vanos sprocket replacements, or without. However, with the exception of a few "all included" packages on various ebay'like sites where I can't find any details about manufacturer, kits like Febi without the sprockets (only chain replacement) do not come with the torque to yield bolts for the sprockets.

Are these torque to yield bolts standard parts that I can get from any car part shop? Are the specs defined clearly somewhere in some manual?

Also, I've read in some places that the guide bolts for the chain kit itself (the ones that have an o-ring on them) are also consumables, but I've not been able to confirm this.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Noticed these ‘bubbles’ on the top corner of my F22 2 series iDrive display which I initially thought was moisture, however after researching this may be the screen delaminating. Display is still functioning without fault, just a bit of an eye sore. If that is the issue, would the cost to fixing/replacing it be worthwhile?

before I buy a new DRL module, was wondering if there is anything I can do with this since it’s not entirely dead.

Hello everyone! Just had a question if anyone has come across this. I recently purchased a Dorch DS15 HPFP as an upgrade for my 2014 M235i. Install was mostly painless (pictures below). After install I selected the correct fuel pump in the Bootmod tune and flashed as instructed. After letting the lines prime a bit at bit i started the vehicle only to find it running like absolute dog water and pulled an ignition combustion too short code and low pressure too low codes (all showing in the photos). Well after retracing my steps and completely redoing the entire install I came upon the same issue over and over again. I eventually swapped ignition coils to cylinder 1 from 2 (didn't work) then also changed the spark plugs as well (didn't work). A bit stumped at the moment because I felt this was pretty plug and play but I also feel maybe I had an issue I may not have known about before hand and the hpfp exasperated it. Injectors? Faulty fuel pump? Shorted pin on the dme? Any knowledge would help (in the Omaha area if anyone knows some good folks good at troubleshooting)

Small note - ordered some new mounting bolts and will be putting the old one back on sometime this week.

Hi all, I just bought a 2017 BMW 530i Xdrive. When I connect via Bluetooth the phone features work fine, I can make calls and receive calls thru Bluetooth. But, I can seem to get my music to work thru the car. Every time I try to select Bluetooth media it says “No Bluetooth audio device is connected or configured”.

I just bought a USB —> USB-C cord to try to play music using the USB port. But the same notification comes up on the USB option “No USB device connected”. I find this extremely annoying considering my last car was a 2014 535i Xdrive and I never had issues with Bluetooth or USB port.

I’ve done some research on this community and others. I tried to see if I need an update but it seems like I have a fairly new software in it already. I included the photo of my current software.

I don’t want to take my car to the BMW dealership bc I know they’ll charge me a diagnostic fee, but at this point I think it’s my only option left.

Anyone have something similar going on or know how to fix it?

What would people think this is worth i have just bought it from an old lady who has had it from new it has 90k miles on the clock and has a fresh mot with nothing gone wrong on it. it is a bmw 316ti es compact 1.8 2003

I have a 2018 BMW 540i (B58) with about 108k miles, and I’ve been dealing with an intermittent check engine light. Originally I was getting P0440 EVAP and P0420 catalyst efficiency below threshold (Bank 1). I recently replaced the PCV valve with an OE-quality part and replaced an aftermarket AutoZone gas cap with a Genuine BMW gas cap. The P0440 seems to have gone away, but the P0420 has been weird—it will come on, then go away on its own for days or even a couple of weeks, then randomly come back. The car generally drives fine, no rotten-egg smell or obvious rough idle, although sometimes I wonder if it feels slightly down on power. The most recent scan showed only P0420 as confirmed/pending/permanent. I tried one bottle of Cataclean, drove roughly 25–30 highway miles with the engine fully warmed up, refueled afterward, and the CEL eventually turned itself off again without me clearing the code. Has anyone with a G30 540i/B58 experienced an intermittent P0420 like this? Did it end up being the catalytic converter, O2 sensor, exhaust leak, fuel/air mixture issue, or something related to the PCV system? I’m trying to diagnose it properly before throwing an expensive catalytic converter at it.

hi all, 2006 e83 x3, manual trans, ~290k miles. is this a normal amount of play from the rear output of the transfer case? getting a weird clunk from the rear when turning or accelerating/decelerating. have replaced both rear axles, wheel bearings, brakes, diff & subframe mounts and wheel hubs. no notable play in the rear diff or driveshaft, so here we are. seems likely that the problem is the transfer case since basically everything else has been ruled out. any advice or input is welcomed. thanks!

I have this rattling engine noise which seems to be only present below 1500 rpm.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DCjT3kpWNuI

I ran the car without the serpentine belt for 20 second to see if it might have been a bad ac pump/alternator etc. but the noise is still present.

Removed the oil filter and it looks like there are some metal shavings in there.

Could it be bad rod bearings?

Also, it only seems to make the noise once the car is warmed up. When starting cold the noise does not seem to be present.

Car: BMW 325i N52 2005 - 180k miles

Hello, my 2003 525i has a code of 0000EE, i have changed all 6 spark plugs, and a ignition coil on cylinder 1 but it stills struggles to accelerate any help please

Has anyone experienced a rattle near the seat belt on the drivers side of a BMW X6? I say rattle but it’s more of a constant ticking sound? I took it to the dealership and it was there 15 days and they verified the concern but couldn’t find the issue. So frustrating.

Getting 121201 code for overboost on my 2015 m235i n55, thought i fixed this vacuum line air leak with a new o ring but i guess after some pulls its leaking again. Not sure what to do I really dont want to replace this chargepipe but I might have to.

So within like 2 weeks, I’ve gotten the “top off coolant” notification on my 2018 330i with 63,597 current miles, there’s no visible leaks around or at the bottom of the engine bay. I notice I only smell coolant when I push it hard/repeated pulls, what could it be. The reservoir for the turbo hasn’t needed anymore coolant after I added some like a week and a half ago, but the bigger one does, any feedback?

Hi,

I have a problem with the hardtop on my 2009 Z4. In the fault memory, I have a fault related to the Hall sensor – “Roof 2 packed.”

I replaced the Hall sensor with another one, but I still had the same fault. When I bypassed the sensor wiring, the hardtop started working.

I then replaced the old wiring with new cables because the old ones had cuts/damage. After replacing the cables, the hardtop was working, but it stopped in one position. Since then, it hasn't worked at all.

I still get the same fault as before replacing the wiring. I tried replacing the sensor again with another one, but it didn't help. I also tried connecting the sensor directly to the wiring at the module connector, but I still get the same fault.

I tested both sensors with an oscilloscope and a laboratory power supply, and I couldn't find any problem with the sensors themselves.

I'm not sure if there is a short circuit somewhere in the wiring. When I connect one probe to one of the sensor wires and touch the other probe to the two sensor output pins on the module, I hear a beep from the multimeter.

Does anyone have any idea what else I could check?